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Montre3
08-04-2015, 09:39 AM
I'd like to introduce myself, my name is Montre and I'2ve always wanted to build a thunderbird sc for road racing/autocross but ive never done any serious work on a motor, just accessories, brakes, cooling, and audio etc:rolleyes::rolleyes:. My Dad owned a 1993 thunderbird lx brand new from the dealership until I was 20 and I grew up in the passenger seat. I loved it so much but always drooled over the SC. So I bought my first Super Coupe on Saturday:D:D and I believe it has a blown headgasket:mad::mad::mad::mad:. I don't have experience diagnosing, ima point n shoot mechanic. the problem is the car won't start and it began with a heavy studder and lack of power. At first I just had and issue starting the car but I learned how to drive the car hoping it was a problem with the cam sensor or the DIS but now the car stalls when put into gear, its beyond a miss it feels as if its lost compression. I also have white smoke and I believe I'm dripping coolant out the exhaust as well. I'll take a look at my coolant and pray there is not milky color but I'm presuming there will be. I have a Chiltons manual and a owners manual and one other manual. I'm wondering is there any tips or do's and don'ts that im not aware of before I start tearing into the motor. I have a set a fel-pro gaskets but they are a few years old still new in the box. The car only has 112000 miles so I'm hoping I can do this without sending the heads to a machine shop, I don't even know where one is in my area:confused::confused::confused:. I don't have the tools or know how to pull the motor, but I'm hoping after I finish this ill be confident enough to take on a transmission swap. Now heres my shame, years ago i attempted the same repair on my lx and hit a dead end on the exhaust manifold. I wasn't able to jack the car it had sunken into the mud and couldn't get to the manifold from above. I'm hoping to avoid this hiccup this time around.as it was the predominant reason i sold it (it was sitting and deteriorated). if anybody can help guide me through this and give me some ideas as to how to build it up some I'd greatly appreciate it.:)

MadMikeyL
08-04-2015, 10:13 AM
If you have never done head gaskets before, the SC isn't exactly the best place to start. There are a lot of parts to remove and reinstall, and this engine is very sensitive to vacuum leaks, so one loose bolt can drive you nuts for days chasing it down. If you do attempt this though, I would suggest taking lots of pictures and using zip-lock bags marked with a sharpie for what all the various bolts and brackets are, this way when it goes back together you will know what goes where. Also the heads absolutely have to be checked out by a machine shop, otherwise you are likely to be doing this all over again. Also the head bolts are one-time use, so either get new head bolts, or preferably ARP head studs. Other than that, take your time, and it isn't too difficult, just a lot more work than doing head gaskets on a 3.8 NA motor.

Montre3
08-04-2015, 12:13 PM
Do you think maybe a vacuum leak couldcause my issue? Its has some after market cold air intake on it

820
08-04-2015, 12:42 PM
I would search out every vacume line just to be sure. There is a kit that will tell you if you have exhaust gas in your coolant. NAPA sells it around here. You do not want your oil to turn milky. That is a sure sign of coolant in the engine oil and is very hard on the engine bearings. After the car has sat for a few days without the engine running the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan. When you remove the drain plug engine coolant will drain out first. You will need a few special tools to complete a head gasket job. The exhaust manifolds can be unbolted from the heads. That can be done from top. Its best to be able to be under and above the car though.this engine is nothing exotic.

S4gunn
08-04-2015, 02:10 PM
I would search out every vacume line just to be sure. There is a kit that will tell you if you have exhaust gas in your coolant. NAPA sells it around here. You do not want your oil to turn milky. That is a sure sign of coolant in the engine oil and is very hard on the engine bearings. After the car has sat for a few days without the engine running the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan. When you remove the drain plug engine coolant will drain out first. You will need a few special tools to complete a head gasket job. The exhaust manifolds can be unbolted from the heads. That can be done from top. Its best to be able to be under and above the car though.this engine is nothing exotic.

BHG test:
After the car is warmed up, another quick test is to take your car by an emissions shop and ask them to wave their sampling wand in the exhaust pipe and above the open radiator cap.
It's very sensitive since it measures in PPM and if it detects an excessive amount of H20 in the exhaust, it means you have a hole in the exhaust (if its rusty) or coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers (BHG)
If it detects hydrocarbons in the coolant, you have a leak of the combustion chamber into the coolant (BHG).

I imagine most places will be willing to do this for free if you know them or if they are nice but even in expensive SF, a guy was willing to do this for me for $10 since it takes literally 2 minutes of his time.
NOTE: Make sure you dont' scald yourself when you open the radiator cap -- the warming up recommendation is to make sure that all of condensation in the exhaust piping has burned off and the thermostat has opened.

If you see milky coolant, that's a clear sign (without using any wand) that oil/gas is getting into your cooling system. How? the most logical place is at the combustion chamber. Personally, if you cannot get it done for free, I'd save the $10.

Vacuum Leaks:
Checking for vacuum leaks can be done with a cigar (to create smoke -- the vacuum will suck it in) or with an Unlit propane torch on low and the engine idling. A vacuum leak will suck in the propane and cause the revs to rise. Of course, you need to get the car to idle smoothly first. A vacuum leak wouldn't cause milky coolant or coolant in the exhaust. Condensation could cause liquid in the exhaust but its a question of amount.

Heads:
As far as swapping the heads, you can do it on the car without pulling the engine. You will want to send the heads out to a shop to confirm they are flat since they are aluminum and can be warped b/c of excessive heat (you have to ask yourself why the BHG happened in the first place). You could do it without sending the heads out or with a cursory check you do yourself with a flat surface (not a table, a solid block of glass or metal) but you run the risk of having to do the HG again.


PS. Finally, if your working outside and your jack is sinking in the mud, you should consider putting something under it (like a solid sheet of wood) to distribute the weight. If you don't have tools, either save up money to buy them (you don't need that much stuff to do this job -- a decent torque wrench and socket set) OR save up the pennies to hire someone to do the work for you. As far as a transmission swap is concerned, you can do that on jacks but you will be sliding on the ground a lot so you will likely want to find a place that's drier for THAT project.

MadMikeyL
08-04-2015, 02:41 PM
If you are blowing white smoke, and leaking coolant out the exhaust, then you have blown head gaskets. A vacuum leak may have caused you to run lean, which could have caused the gaskets to blow, but at this point, the heads have to come off.

820
08-04-2015, 03:29 PM
An emission station would be fantastic. If the o.o lives in a state that has emission testing.Here in Indiana we have two of 92 counties that test, I think. Mike is correct. The steam will most Likly have the smell of combustion also.

SuperCoupeDave
08-04-2015, 05:37 PM
Unfortunately you have probably blown a head gasket. As I'm sure you know, these engines are infamous for it.

SCarSC
08-04-2015, 06:50 PM
Op...where are you located...perhaps a member can come help you.

shoalcracker
08-04-2015, 08:07 PM
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-a-blown-head-gasket-3

Paul

Montre3
08-04-2015, 08:39 PM
Well after further inspection I realized that the crankshaft wheel wobbled about 1cm in either direction. ive began to believe the harmonic balancer has broken, it almost throws the belt off and barely starts after intake leak was solved but im scared to run it. at this point I got it on jack stands before the sun went down.the engine shakes violently and it only starts when its wot.it sputters around 500-1200 rpm before dying after a minute or if I give it any gas. if you have any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.

MadMikeyL
08-04-2015, 08:54 PM
The harmonic balancer failing is a common problem. The only permanent fix is to replace it with a BHJ one. Also don't start the car again with it shaking like that. If the balancer breaks, it will be much more difficult to get the pieces of the old one off.

jdsgallops
08-04-2015, 09:35 PM
With allof the problems you are having I think you have more than one issue you are trying to find. If you had a vacuum leak you would not need to hold the throttle open to WOT to start the car. WOT while starting shuts off the injectors meaning it is running rich. A vacuum leak would make it lean. If the car has been sitting for a while I would address all known weak points of the SC before going any further.

sam jones
08-05-2015, 01:16 AM
Good evening

I'm thinking a good plan would be way to go if you plan on keeping it for awhile. I agree with jdsgallops the car "screaming" for attention. Since you going to replace the harmonic balancer (don't forget the new bolt and washer) and the car is on jacks here are some other things to inspect. This might require the supercharger to be removed to get better access. This is not an all inclusive list as members here have done even more than what I am listing.

Check for blown head gaskets as mention in earlier posts. If the gasket have not be changed the car you have is approaching the danger point. See Club Poll Section on blown head gaskets.

Any engine oil leaks (front timing cover and or crankshaft rear seals)? Has the oil been changed recently?

Are the plugs and wires serviceable? Have you checked the MAF hot and cold wires for dirt accumulation?

Is the coolant system in need of repair? Coolant system in need of a flush? Is the radiator cracked at the plastic tanks (replacement radiator). Signs of corrosion in or on the radiator? Has the radiator cap been replaced? Does the radiator core have any indication of clogged tubes. Are the coolant hoses and water pump leaking? Recovery tank cracked? Is the thermostat housing leaking? Thermostat neglected? Any indication of "head gasket sealer"? Fan working with no strange sounds?

Are the engine mounts serviceable? If they are original (liquid filled) the engine could be "lowered " making the oil filer difficult to replace. This will result in damage to oil pan rubbing against the power steering line and or causing the knock sensor to constantly pull timing because the oil pan and K member are striking each other. Check for broken "solid" mounts (if installed). Don't forget the transmission mount.

Are the vacuum hoses (plastic, fuel pressure regulator, boost gauge, by-pass valve PCV) serviceable?

Any exhaust manifold leaks (that infamous "tick, tick" sound)? Does the gasket need to changed?

Has the fuel filter been changed?

Have you done a Scan? Key On Engine Off and Key On Engine ON. Any codes requiring attention?

Does the engine harness (DIS, crank and cam) have exposed wiring? Is there any heat sink on the DIS/ Accessory mount bracket?

Are the oxygen sensor anti-freeze "poisoned"? If so they will be in need of replacement.

Is the EGR tube cracked (if equipped)? Any sludge carbon inside the tube?

Is the supercharger leaking? In need of servicing?

You should be congratulated for saving this car. Too many times in my travels to the salvage yards there is an SC/Cougar that could have been saved had someone taken the time and effort and use this forum.

Good luck.

Montre3
08-12-2015, 11:31 AM
Shes just too pretty to let her die

https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/q85/s200x200/11222412_903272126392707_4988875183853552556_n.jpg ?oh=9634c630b6c3c9bfedaa2f71211a7c74&oe=5644E8BC


So I've got the radiator fan out the way and the belts off, but I cant move the balancer with my hand. I've found a Dorman replacement for the time being and until it gets here I'm going to try and take the old balancer off. I have a few questions before I start though.
The car will not start but I've read of people driving theirs until it the bolt snapped, does this mean I may need the crank sensor?
I believe its running very rich, there are black spots in my yard under the exhaust. Is it possible for the balancer to cause this as well or should I be in for a surprise.
should I be able to inspect the damage while its still on the car because without it running I cant see any definite signs. is there anything I can do to test it?

aroot1
08-12-2015, 01:24 PM
DO NOT use the dorman balancer they are junk and you WILL have problems with it!!!!

I know they are pricy, but the BHJ is the best way to go. It used to be the only way, but reciently another company has started making a replacement stock type that people have had success with. I can't remember the company, but a search here will probably turn it up, or someone else can chime in


Adam

potshotscott
08-19-2015, 12:01 AM
I feel your pain especially since I'm in the throes of the same basic work on my car right now. If you have an Autozone nearby head over there and rent (free but with deposit) a balancer puller tool. You can yard the balancer off with the puller. If there's any leftovers you can carefully drill the leftover in three places (triangle) and use small sheet metal screws to extract the rest. You may notice that your car might have a crank sensor cover and then the sensor underneath. It will be obvious if there's major damage. My car ran (very poorly) with the broken balancer and was eating into my crank sensor (shaving the plastic off). My crank sensor was working fine - I guess I'm saying you'll instantly know if there's some catastrophic failure there. Here's some information I wished I had known before tearing into my '94. The 89-93 and 94-95 model years do not use the same timing covers and therefore do not use the same crank seal. Do not try and force an 89-93 seal on a 94-95 timing cover. In fact, unless your timing cover crank seal is trashed I'd avoid replacing it at all. If you have an 89-93 model year and you would like to replace the front crank seal shoot me a PM and I'll ship you the brand new one I bought that I don't need.

You already know you need a balancer. It makes sense to replace it, check the crank sensor or replace the crank sensor too while you're down there. I have a crank sensor from a 94 Mustang you can have el-freebo but I've not check compatibility.

Good luck - take it from me, don't mess with anything that you don't need to or you might wind up elongating the time and money spent on your repair.

Oh - and while I'm looking at the last post here about the third party balancers the company that is alleged to make a decent balancer is Powerbond. However, be aware that they do not make a 94-95 balancer. They only make one for the 89-93.

Montre3
08-19-2015, 09:16 PM
So ive hit a wall after i purchased a puller and a powerbond harm balancer I realized i have to figure out how to stop my crank from rotating before i can pull my balancer off. I wish i could say this is the last obstacle but who knows. From my searches ive read you can jam a screw driver between the flywheel teeth but that sounds like a bad idea and i havent located the cover yet to even attempt it. I was wondering if there was a simpler way to do this that i dont know yet. Sorry about my grammar, spelling, etc. im kinda rushing as i have to be at work in the morning and i need to get this done. I appreciate all the help i wouldnt have made it this far without you guys.

P.s. Would i have harm balancer related issues if it was not torqued down properly because it took me no effort to break the bolts.

potshotscott
08-19-2015, 09:26 PM
You can pull the positive lead off the battery and then pull the starter off. Once the starter is off you have full access to the flywheel and you should be able to keep her from moving. I'm going to have to install mine that way. Mine came off with some wrenching. Not sure why your crank bolt is being such a booger.

Rushing things only makes it worse. Slow down and walk though it.

mywhite89
08-20-2015, 08:26 AM
Jamming a screwdriver between the flywheel and the engine sounds bad, but its not. The other option is air or electric impact to remove the bolt, but you will need to pull the radiator to gain access for that.

SCarSC
08-20-2015, 01:07 PM
I have used a series of extensions to jamb between the pullers bolts and the frame...worked well enough for me.

Montre3
08-20-2015, 01:53 PM
I broke the neck off the old balancer. im so sick of this ~~~~~

potshotscott
08-20-2015, 02:01 PM
There's a thread on this.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?133075-Broken-Balancer-good-times!

You can use small small small drill bits along with some sheet metal screws to get the neck of the balancer out. You can use the puller but with the sheet metal screws in the neck. Trust me - it works and it will come out.

Montre3
08-20-2015, 07:13 PM
There's a thread on this.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?133075-Broken-Balancer-good-times!

You can use small small small drill bits along with some sheet metal screws to get the neck of the balancer out. You can use the puller but with the sheet metal screws in the neck. Trust me - it works and it will come out.

omg I cant believe that hillbilly BS actually worked lol. now im just trying to figure out how to use the puller to reacttach the new pulley....and my bolt is broken... Ffuuuuggggg.

potshotscott
08-21-2015, 01:40 AM
You don't use the puller to put the new balancer back on. You either use the bolt or you use a balancer install tool. You're going to want to search "balancer removal" to look into what to do with the bolt. You're basically going to have to drill it out and "easy-out" the thing. It's not going to be "easy". Good luck. It's comforting to know I'm not the only one wrestling with a balancer right now.

It's not hillbilly, it's alternative engineering

Montre3
08-21-2015, 09:01 AM
You don't use the puller to put the new balancer back on. You either use the bolt or you use a balancer install tool. You're going to want to search "balancer removal" to look into what to do with the bolt. You're basically going to have to drill it out and "easy-out" the thing. It's not going to be "easy". Good luck. It's comforting to know I'm not the only one wrestling with a balancer right now.

It's not hillbilly, it's alternative engineering

Yeah, the extractors and I have history so I should be able to handle that, I just need to find a new bolt. I'm heading to the junk yard to try and find a one on a crashed mustang or something. I figure at this point I might have to get creative. I'm not sure about the bolt from SCP because its "extra long" and sounds like its BHJ specific, plus its 20 bucks! I can't find it at any local parts stores and I don't think the ford dealer will have it either. Does anybody know where I can find an oem bolt. I need to get her running before the semester starts and the last thing I need is to have the repair stalled over a bolt.

Montre3
08-21-2015, 10:31 AM
Yeah, the extractors and I have history so I should be able to handle that, I just need to find a new bolt. I'm heading to the junk yard to try and find a one on a crashed mustang or something. I figure at this point I might have to get creative. I'm not sure about the bolt from SCP because its "extra long" and sounds like its BHJ specific, plus its 20 bucks! I can't find it at any local parts stores and I don't think the ford dealer will have it either. Does anybody know where I can find an oem bolt. I need to get her running before the semester starts and the last thing I need is to have the repair stalled over a bolt.

Update.



Do I need to replace the sleeve as well?

potshotscott
08-21-2015, 12:48 PM
Your Ford dealer will likely have a bolt. The guys here who know much more than I might know if the Mustang bolt is the same as the Tbird bolt. When I go to the dealer for parts I often time look for the Mustang equivalent part because they never have the SC part.

What is this sleeve you speak of?

Montre3
08-21-2015, 03:26 PM
Your Ford dealer will likely have a bolt. The guys here who know much more than I might know if the Mustang bolt is the same as the Tbird bolt. When I go to the dealer for parts I often time look for the Mustang equivalent part because they never have the SC part.

What is this sleeve you speak of?

well im going to take a ride 2 states over to get this bolt. I can get a used one out of a mustang for 5 bucks but idk if a used one will last. im kinda tired today so I'm going to take a break but tomorrow I should have the balancer on and hopefully the car back together.

Montre3
08-25-2015, 07:46 AM
okay I just need to know if these are the right specs for the crank bolt


M14x1.5 Tap
F58Z 6A340 A
Crankshaft pulley bolt

is it supposed to come in a 3 pack?

jdsgallops
08-25-2015, 09:24 AM
No those are for the pulley to balancer not the balancer to crank.

potshotscott
08-25-2015, 12:41 PM
"OEM balancer bolt which is grade 10.9 M14 x 40mm x1.5 pitch" from TCCoA.com balancer wiki/article

Montre3
08-25-2015, 03:16 PM
"OEM balancer bolt which is grade 10.9 M14 x 40mm x1.5 pitch" from TCCoA.com balancer wiki/article

F58Z 6A340 A

so this is the wrong part?63999

looks right

potshotscott
08-25-2015, 03:28 PM
Looks right to me too. However, I installed a BHJ balancer and went with the longer bolt.

S_Mazza
08-26-2015, 12:08 PM
Edit:

Sorry, I somehow ended up on the first page of the thread and replied to the last question there. Never mind.

Montre3
08-26-2015, 01:52 PM
any tips for extracting the bolt. ive spent $40 in drill bits and none of them have been able to put a hole in the center bolt
what bits did you use cause my extractor has rounded. all my drill bits rounded and my other reverse bit cant get a hold of it without the whole first

bowez
08-26-2015, 05:43 PM
Ideally you would want a Left-handed Cobalt bit. Though using a cut off wheel to make a slot and screwdriver may be able to get it to unscrew.

Did you brake a drill or extractor in the it? If so a cut off wheel is you best best, unless you have a welder.

S_Mazza
08-26-2015, 06:55 PM
any tips for extracting the bolt. ive spent $40 in drill bits and none of them have been able to put a hole in the center bolt
what bits did you use cause my extractor has rounded. all my drill bits rounded and my other reverse bit cant get a hold of it without the whole first

Unless it is badly rusted, it probably isn't really gripping the threads all that tightly. I would think it could only have stretched in the first thread or two, right near the break.

You could try making a divot with a hardened center punch, though it may be difficult if the broken surface is not flat.

On the other hand, if the broken surface is not flat, you could try to catch a ridge with a chisel. Some careful tapping with the chisel near the edge for maximum leverage may be able to start twisting it out.

I try to stay away from screw extractors when I can, because they are really brittle. Break that in the bolt, and you are worse off than before.

Montre3
08-26-2015, 08:01 PM
Well she starts but she dies when I put her in gear...here we go again, so I finished the harmonic balancer repair and I started it. hoorah. Now it starts, idles, and revs. Unfortunately when I put the car I gear its dies immediately. While it idles I hear a ticking noise from the ignition, the sound seems as if it come from the steering column. I just don't want to spend anymore money....so im trying to determine whats my issues. the idles fluctuates between 700 and 1000 but stays pretty stable. if I give it gas the rpms dip to 500 but immediately jumps back. the idle is rough the car feels like its vibrating. when I parked it I had to rev it to about 3k before I put it in gear so it would start moving without stalling, and eventually it wouldn't go in gear without dying but I assumed it was the balancer.

am i looking at a new crank sensor or do I just need to trace a vacuum leak? any tips would be greatly appreciated

sam jones
08-27-2015, 12:35 AM
Good evening

What is you boost gauge reading at idle? Less than @ 17 vacuum on a stock gauge is a good indicator of a problem. Check all supercharger, intercooler and vacuum connections. Use search in this forum for more information on this subject. If you have a fuel pressure gauge check fuel pressure. When was the fuel filter last changed?

Good luck.

Montre3
08-27-2015, 12:55 AM
Good evening

What is you boost gauge reading at idle? Less than @ 17 vacuum on a stock gauge is a good indicator of a problem. Check all supercharger, intercooler and vacuum connections. Use search in this forum for more information on this subject. If you have a fuel pressure gauge check fuel pressure. When was the fuel filter last changed?

Good luck.
it idles at about 19 to 20 psi, ill check again though.as for the filter, the guy I bought it from didn't do much of anything maintenance wise.
does this sound like a vacuum problem? can I stop throwing money at it? the problem started the same day the balancer died, could it be a crank sensor issue?

sam jones
08-27-2015, 09:11 AM
Good morning

Vacuum reading looks good. This would be a good time to pull codes. If your model year is 1989-1993 the crank sensor must have a clearance "air gap" between the crank sensor and balancer vane. If the sensor strikes the vane balancer this would account for the"ticking sound" you are hearing when the engine is running. This could cause an interrupted crank signal and an eventual shut down. Eliminate potential fuel pressure issues with a fuel gauge. The car is most likely due fuel filter change. Your are troubleshooting and finding the causes of the problem not "throwing parts" for a fix. Don't give up.


Good luck.

Montre3
08-27-2015, 02:00 PM
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DvowEdozHb4


Someone tell me whats going on. If i dnt get it running today im turning in the tags and dropping the insurance, only drove the car 120 miles since i owned it. Have drivin it at all this month.

S_Mazza
08-28-2015, 05:15 PM
If you are actually getting a ticking sound from the steering column, it's 99% likely to be electrical arcing inside a failing ignition switch. I would open up the plastic covers and look ASAP. Bear in mind that some of those wires are electrically live at all times, so don't start a fire. You can get the column covers off without breaking anything by using the tilt function, a long Phillips screwdriver, and some careful finagling.

Now, this may not account for all your running issues, but I would look there first.

I don't think it's a bad crank sensor. It would probably not start at all if that was the case. But it's definitely worth checking the position of the balancer vanes against the crank sensor, to make sure it's centered. You can adjust the sensor position to suit the balancer. A matchbook cover is about the right thickness for the air gap each side. You can see it's not got a lot of room for error.

Montre3
08-28-2015, 09:57 PM
huge thanks to everyone for your advice, you guys literally held my hand through this repair. I truly appreciate everything you all have done for me. unfortunely the sc died on me today and I think it might be time to hang it up. the transmission is slipping so bad the car died on the side of the road and wouldn't start. I have no idea what to do, itopped off the trans fluid but it just got worse from there. atf drips from the bellhousing and the car cant find a gear. long story short I feel as if the repairs are more complicated than im capable of doing. I don't have the tools, I don't have a lift, and I don't have the money. I don't want to sell it but I don't think I have an option. you guys have been great, ive never meet a community as nice and helpful as you guys. I wish you all the best.


montre

potshotscott
08-28-2015, 10:14 PM
I feel your frustration. Hang on to the car for a bit. If you search for transmission threads you can find some interesting reads on newer Mustang 4R70W swaps. I've got a 94 SC that already had the 4R70W (you're 89-93 has the AOD). There's threads on AOD to 4R70W transplants. Here's the best part: I got my 4R70W from a wrecker out of a 2001 Mustang with 4000 original miles on it for $225.00. I had to add about $50.00 in fluid but for less than $300.00 total I put a newer transmission in. You don't need too much by way of tools to do the swap either. A lot of our cars are beat down and need work. Some have just been driven way too hard for way too long.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?117751-How-to-4r70w-swap&highlight=4r70w+swap

Montre3
08-28-2015, 10:21 PM
what gets me is the car wont even start it bucks and stumbled before it died.at first starting the car wasn't an issue but when the trans finally gave the car wont run. :confused::confused: I wanted to swap a m5r2 in it regardless but that was gonna be a fun mod not a requirement.

S_Mazza
08-29-2015, 12:31 AM
what gets me is the car wont even start it bucks and stumbled before it died.at first starting the car wasn't an issue but when the trans finally gave the car wont run. :confused::confused: I wanted to swap a m5r2 in it regardless but that was gonna be a fun mod not a requirement.

That is weird. It is very strange to have fluid dripping from the bell housing as well. I wonder if the transmission pump or torque converter broke. If so, maybe it's jamming the back of the crank.

I bought my car with no trans at all. Got a used rebuilt AOD from a Grand Marquis for $250. Got a new torque converter for $200. Had a shop put it in. Now I have over 100,000 miles on it.

In your situation, it's hard to tell if that's the only problem.

sam jones
08-29-2015, 03:04 AM
Good evening

When you topped off the transmission was the engine running? If not then you have probably over serviced it. The ATF could be leaking from the transmission fill pipe where it connects to the transmission. This is because of a aged "o" ring. As for the transmission not responding check the throttle body for a disconnected TV cable. The plastic grommet could be missing and or unable to secure the TV cable. The TV cable is critical for AOD transmission operation.

Good Luck

Montre3
08-29-2015, 10:38 AM
Ill look it over when i get it home but idk if ima keep trying. Tires suspension bushings brakes engine problems starter power steering hoses vacuum hoses head light etc. this thing needs it all and i need a daily right now

jdsgallops
08-29-2015, 11:10 AM
I think we have all been where you are at some point in time. Which means the question becomes what is your long term goal? Daily driver. The SC is not the best daily driver as it does need a lot of attention. BUT if you do get another daily driver the SC or MN12 platform in general is relatively cheap to repair/rebuild. My SC was in much the same shape. I had set back after set back. After the latest one I contemplated selling it or parting it out. I can't get what I have in it back out of it though. So it has sat for a while. I drove it the other day and fell in love again. The car is so comfortable and fun to drive( even lacking power as mine is right now) that I feel it is well worth the money I have spent rebuilding the whole car practically. The money I have in it is way less than I have in my Mustang with a similar rebuild level though with way less upgraded aftermarket parts. That being said take the advice given above. Hold on to the car for a while. Find a daily driver and then peck at the t bird as you have time and money. I think you will find wrenching on it will be much more enjoyable without the stress of having to depend on it to get you where you need to go. I know I do! Chin up and keep at it. Keep another one of these soon to be gone cars on the road.

potshotscott
08-29-2015, 01:44 PM
^ This

All your issues to do (brakes, bushings etc...) are fun projects to look forward to but only if you have another car to drive while the Tbird is in the garage. Yes sometimes its frustrating but I'm with jdsgallop - these cars are just fun to drive. I travel for work frequently and rent a lot of cars. I've rented all the Fords (Taurus, Fusion, Mustang, C-max etc...) and they're all vanilla compared to my SC. Heck - I've even driven the new Camaro (V8) and the Super Coupe still out performs all of those cars. Handling, quickness and speed - the SC has it all. The SC might not be able to "beat" all those cars at the track but in-town, out in the country and on the interstate the SC is awesome.

The SC is largely unknown to many. Everyone has seen plain jane Thunderbird but the SC should be preserved. I did the math on my car compared to all of the birds made. 1994 SC auto = 1925 made; I've got one! Your year might not be as rare but as time goes on it will be.

Montre3
09-01-2015, 05:43 PM
if I can figure out how to get the engine running again and a new transmission id keep it but as of now everything is broke. I don't know why but when my trans gave out the car died. it cranks but no start. could I have just put too much fluid in the trans when I topped it off? its a little over the hash marks. I can figure out the trans swap but I need this thing to run.

Can I use a n/a gasket set on a sc?