Before I rip the heads off....

I'd like to introduce myself, my name is Montre and I'2ve always wanted to build a thunderbird sc for road racing/autocross but ive never done any serious work on a motor, just accessories, brakes, cooling, and audio etc. My Dad owned a 1993 thunderbird lx brand new from the dealership until I was 20 and I grew up in the passenger seat. I loved it so much but always drooled over the SC. So I bought my first Super Coupe on Saturday and I believe it has a blown headgasket. I don't have experience diagnosing, ima point n shoot mechanic. the problem is the car won't start and it began with a heavy studder and lack of power. At first I just had and issue starting the car but I learned how to drive the car hoping it was a problem with the cam sensor or the DIS but now the car stalls when put into gear, its beyond a miss it feels as if its lost compression. I also have white smoke and I believe I'm dripping coolant out the exhaust as well. I'll take a look at my coolant and pray there is not milky color but I'm presuming there will be. I have a Chiltons manual and a owners manual and one other manual. I'm wondering is there any tips or do's and don'ts that im not aware of before I start tearing into the motor. I have a set a fel-pro gaskets but they are a few years old still new in the box. The car only has 112000 miles so I'm hoping I can do this without sending the heads to a machine shop, I don't even know where one is in my area. I don't have the tools or know how to pull the motor, but I'm hoping after I finish this ill be confident enough to take on a transmission swap. Now heres my shame, years ago i attempted the same repair on my lx and hit a dead end on the exhaust manifold. I wasn't able to jack the car it had sunken into the mud and couldn't get to the manifold from above. I'm hoping to avoid this hiccup this time around.as it was the predominant reason i sold it (it was sitting and deteriorated). if anybody can help guide me through this and give me some ideas as to how to build it up some I'd greatly appreciate it.

If you have never done head gaskets before, the SC isn't exactly the best place to start. There are a lot of parts to remove and reinstall, and this engine is very sensitive to vacuum leaks, so one loose bolt can drive you nuts for days chasing it down. If you do attempt this though, I would suggest taking lots of pictures and using zip-lock bags marked with a sharpie for what all the various bolts and brackets are, this way when it goes back together you will know what goes where. Also the heads absolutely have to be checked out by a machine shop, otherwise you are likely to be doing this all over again. Also the head bolts are one-time use, so either get new head bolts, or preferably ARP head studs. Other than that, take your time, and it isn't too difficult, just a lot more work than doing head gaskets on a 3.8 NA motor.

Do you think maybe a vacuum leak couldcause my issue? Its has some after market cold air intake on it

I would search out every vacume line just to be sure. There is a kit that will tell you if you have exhaust gas in your coolant. NAPA sells it around here. You do not want your oil to turn milky. That is a sure sign of coolant in the engine oil and is very hard on the engine bearings. After the car has sat for a few days without the engine running the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan. When you remove the drain plug engine coolant will drain out first. You will need a few special tools to complete a head gasket job. The exhaust manifolds can be unbolted from the heads. That can be done from top. Its best to be able to be under and above the car though.this engine is nothing exotic.

820 said:

I would search out every vacume line just to be sure. There is a kit that will tell you if you have exhaust gas in your coolant. NAPA sells it around here. You do not want your oil to turn milky. That is a sure sign of coolant in the engine oil and is very hard on the engine bearings. After the car has sat for a few days without the engine running the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan. When you remove the drain plug engine coolant will drain out first. You will need a few special tools to complete a head gasket job. The exhaust manifolds can be unbolted from the heads. That can be done from top. Its best to be able to be under and above the car though.this engine is nothing exotic.

Click to expand...

BHG test:
After the car is warmed up, another quick test is to take your car by an emissions shop and ask them to wave their sampling wand in the exhaust pipe and above the open radiator cap.
It's very sensitive since it measures in PPM and if it detects an excessive amount of H20 in the exhaust, it means you have a hole in the exhaust (if its rusty) or coolant is leaking into the combustion chambers (BHG)
If it detects hydrocarbons in the coolant, you have a leak of the combustion chamber into the coolant (BHG).

I imagine most places will be willing to do this for free if you know them or if they are nice but even in expensive SF, a guy was willing to do this for me for $10 since it takes literally 2 minutes of his time.
NOTE: Make sure you dont' scald yourself when you open the radiator cap -- the warming up recommendation is to make sure that all of condensation in the exhaust piping has burned off and the thermostat has opened.

If you see milky coolant, that's a clear sign (without using any wand) that oil/gas is getting into your cooling system. How? the most logical place is at the combustion chamber. Personally, if you cannot get it done for free, I'd save the $10.

Vacuum Leaks:
Checking for vacuum leaks can be done with a cigar (to create smoke -- the vacuum will suck it in) or with an Unlit propane torch on low and the engine idling. A vacuum leak will suck in the propane and cause the revs to rise. Of course, you need to get the car to idle smoothly first. A vacuum leak wouldn't cause milky coolant or coolant in the exhaust. Condensation could cause liquid in the exhaust but its a question of amount.

Heads:
As far as swapping the heads, you can do it on the car without pulling the engine. You will want to send the heads out to a shop to confirm they are flat since they are aluminum and can be warped b/c of excessive heat (you have to ask yourself why the BHG happened in the first place). You could do it without sending the heads out or with a cursory check you do yourself with a flat surface (not a table, a solid block of glass or metal) but you run the risk of having to do the HG again.


PS. Finally, if your working outside and your jack is sinking in the mud, you should consider putting something under it (like a solid sheet of wood) to distribute the weight. If you don't have tools, either save up money to buy them (you don't need that much stuff to do this job -- a decent torque wrench and socket set) OR save up the pennies to hire someone to do the work for you. As far as a transmission swap is concerned, you can do that on jacks but you will be sliding on the ground a lot so you will likely want to find a place that's drier for THAT project.

If you are blowing white smoke, and leaking coolant out the exhaust, then you have blown head gaskets. A vacuum leak may have caused you to run lean, which could have caused the gaskets to blow, but at this point, the heads have to come off.

An emission station would be fantastic. If the o.o lives in a state that has emission testing.Here in Indiana we have two of 92 counties that test, I think. Mike is correct. The steam will most Likly have the smell of combustion also.

Unfortunately you have probably blown a head gasket. As I'm sure you know, these engines are infamous for it.

Op...where are you located...perhaps a member can come help you.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-a-blown-head-gasket-3

Paul

Well after further inspection I realized that the crankshaft wheel wobbled about 1cm in either direction. ive began to believe the harmonic balancer has broken, it almost throws the belt off and barely starts after intake leak was solved but im scared to run it. at this point I got it on jack stands before the sun went down.the engine shakes violently and it only starts when its wot.it sputters around 500-1200 rpm before dying after a minute or if I give it any gas. if you have any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.

The harmonic balancer failing is a common problem. The only permanent fix is to replace it with a BHJ one. Also don't start the car again with it shaking like that. If the balancer breaks, it will be much more difficult to get the pieces of the old one off.

With allof the problems you are having I think you have more than one issue you are trying to find. If you had a vacuum leak you would not need to hold the throttle open to WOT to start the car. WOT while starting shuts off the injectors meaning it is running rich. A vacuum leak would make it lean. If the car has been sitting for a while I would address all known weak points of the SC before going any further.

Good evening

I'm thinking a good plan would be way to go if you plan on keeping it for awhile. I agree with jdsgallops the car "screaming" for attention. Since you going to replace the harmonic balancer (don't forget the new bolt and washer) and the car is on jacks here are some other things to inspect. This might require the supercharger to be removed to get better access. This is not an all inclusive list as members here have done even more than what I am listing.

Check for blown head gaskets as mention in earlier posts. If the gasket have not be changed the car you have is approaching the danger point. See Club Poll Section on blown head gaskets.

Any engine oil leaks (front timing cover and or crankshaft rear seals)? Has the oil been changed recently?

Are the plugs and wires serviceable? Have you checked the MAF hot and cold wires for dirt accumulation?

Is the coolant system in need of repair? Coolant system in need of a flush? Is the radiator cracked at the plastic tanks (replacement radiator). Signs of corrosion in or on the radiator? Has the radiator cap been replaced? Does the radiator core have any indication of clogged tubes. Are the coolant hoses and water pump leaking? Recovery tank cracked? Is the thermostat housing leaking? Thermostat neglected? Any indication of "head gasket sealer"? Fan working with no strange sounds?

Are the engine mounts serviceable? If they are original (liquid filled) the engine could be "lowered " making the oil filer difficult to replace. This will result in damage to oil pan rubbing against the power steering line and or causing the knock sensor to constantly pull timing because the oil pan and K member are striking each other. Check for broken "solid" mounts (if installed). Don't forget the transmission mount.

Are the vacuum hoses (plastic, fuel pressure regulator, boost gauge, by-pass valve PCV) serviceable?

Any exhaust manifold leaks (that infamous "tick, tick" sound)? Does the gasket need to changed?

Has the fuel filter been changed?

Have you done a Scan? Key On Engine Off and Key On Engine ON. Any codes requiring attention?

Does the engine harness (DIS, crank and cam) have exposed wiring? Is there any heat sink on the DIS/ Accessory mount bracket?

Are the oxygen sensor anti-freeze "poisoned"? If so they will be in need of replacement.

Is the EGR tube cracked (if equipped)? Any sludge carbon inside the tube?

Is the supercharger leaking? In need of servicing?

You should be congratulated for saving this car. Too many times in my travels to the salvage yards there is an SC/Cougar that could have been saved had someone taken the time and effort and use this forum.

Good luck.

Harmonic Balancer

Shes just too pretty to let her die




So I've got the radiator fan out the way and the belts off, but I cant move the balancer with my hand. I've found a Dorman replacement for the time being and until it gets here I'm going to try and take the old balancer off. I have a few questions before I start though.
The car will not start but I've read of people driving theirs until it the bolt snapped, does this mean I may need the crank sensor?
I believe its running very rich, there are black spots in my yard under the exhaust. Is it possible for the balancer to cause this as well or should I be in for a surprise.
should I be able to inspect the damage while its still on the car because without it running I cant see any definite signs. is there anything I can do to test it?

Don"t do it

DO NOT use the dorman balancer they are junk and you WILL have problems with it!!!!

I know they are pricy, but the BHJ is the best way to go. It used to be the only way, but reciently another company has started making a replacement stock type that people have had success with. I can't remember the company, but a search here will probably turn it up, or someone else can chime in


Adam

I feel your pain especially since I'm in the throes of the same basic work on my car right now. If you have an Autozone nearby head over there and rent (free but with deposit) a balancer puller tool. You can yard the balancer off with the puller. If there's any leftovers you can carefully drill the leftover in three places (triangle) and use small sheet metal screws to extract the rest. You may notice that your car might have a crank sensor cover and then the sensor underneath. It will be obvious if there's major damage. My car ran (very poorly) with the broken balancer and was eating into my crank sensor (shaving the plastic off). My crank sensor was working fine - I guess I'm saying you'll instantly know if there's some catastrophic failure there. Here's some information I wished I had known before tearing into my '94. The 89-93 and 94-95 model years do not use the same timing covers and therefore do not use the same crank seal. Do not try and force an 89-93 seal on a 94-95 timing cover. In fact, unless your timing cover crank seal is trashed I'd avoid replacing it at all. If you have an 89-93 model year and you would like to replace the front crank seal shoot me a PM and I'll ship you the brand new one I bought that I don't need.

You already know you need a balancer. It makes sense to replace it, check the crank sensor or replace the crank sensor too while you're down there. I have a crank sensor from a 94 Mustang you can have el-freebo but I've not check compatibility.

Good luck - take it from me, don't mess with anything that you don't need to or you might wind up elongating the time and money spent on your repair.

Oh - and while I'm looking at the last post here about the third party balancers the company that is alleged to make a decent balancer is Powerbond. However, be aware that they do not make a 94-95 balancer. They only make one for the 89-93.

Road Block

So ive hit a wall after i purchased a puller and a powerbond harm balancer I realized i have to figure out how to stop my crank from rotating before i can pull my balancer off. I wish i could say this is the last obstacle but who knows. From my searches ive read you can jam a screw driver between the flywheel teeth but that sounds like a bad idea and i havent located the cover yet to even attempt it. I was wondering if there was a simpler way to do this that i dont know yet. Sorry about my grammar, spelling, etc. im kinda rushing as i have to be at work in the morning and i need to get this done. I appreciate all the help i wouldnt have made it this far without you guys.

P.s. Would i have harm balancer related issues if it was not torqued down properly because it took me no effort to break the bolts.

You can pull the positive lead off the battery and then pull the starter off. Once the starter is off you have full access to the flywheel and you should be able to keep her from moving. I'm going to have to install mine that way. Mine came off with some wrenching. Not sure why your crank bolt is being such a booger.

Rushing things only makes it worse. Slow down and walk though it.

Jamming a screwdriver between the flywheel and the engine sounds bad, but its not. The other option is air or electric impact to remove the bolt, but you will need to pull the radiator to gain access for that.