bucking to death

so until I can get a new transmission Im trying to figure out why the car wont idle. when I try to start the car it will run for about a minute very rough. bucking around 200 - 400 rpm then it just dies. once the engine dies it wont start at all, when I turn it over it bucks around 200 rpm but wont stay running for more than a few seconds. when it does start it idles hard for a second but then evens out at 800 rpms with about 18psi vacuum but as it dies the vacuum goes up till it hits 0 and the car dies. I cant start it long enough to try to spray caarb cleaner but ive tightened the bolts around my intercooler, ive looked at all the hoses. I dnt know much about the egr or the iac so I cant find it to look at it. my transmission slips in all gears so I cnt test drive it but it wasn't doing this until the transmission died. the next time I get the car to run ill put a new updated video of what happens at the gauges but this is from a week ago when the car ran
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvowEdozHb4
ignore the valve noise my spark plug wire was unplugged

when you say bucking you mean surging correct?

bucking is when the the car accelerates and decelerates very rapidly, you sure its not surging where the rpms lope up and down?

can you drive the car at all ?

have you checked fuel pressure ?

decipha said:

when you say bucking you mean surging correct?

bucking is when the the car accelerates and decelerates very rapidly, you sure its not surging where the rpms lope up and down?

can you drive the car at all ?

have you checked fuel pressure ?

Click to expand...

ok so then surging is the correct term. no I cant drive the car I cant start it at the moment

I would check the basic things first.

- Vacuum leak? That can be tested with a smoke machine or even a bike pump. I know you mentioned the 18" of vacuum. I would still wonder if there is a vacuum leak, because you don't really have steady-state running condition to examine.

- Spark present even when it starts to stumble? Did you check and find a strong spark? (Don't unplug from the coil pack while running, or you will probably get a painful shock. Unplug it first and put in a series spark tester.)

- Fuel pressure ok? You can usually borrow a nice kit from your local chain parts store. The Harbor Freight kit for like $25 is actually ok as well.

- Is the MAF plug connected?

- Is the air filter blocked somehow?

- I wouldn't rule out the chance of something mechanical loading down the engine. For example, what if the transmission input shaft is broken, or the pump has gone bad? That might explain both the slipping and the engine dying.

So after i finish the brakes on my camry ill do a quick run down.

First thing that through me off is there is to connectors but only on plug on my maf

My filter isnt clogged but i nvr greased it but that can only be so detremental. (Spelling fail?)

Im not sure if the imput shaft is broke in there cause it starts but i think it fouls my plugs. Ill be checking as soon as i get home. Its so rich i can taste the fuel. Lol honestly i dnt see any smoke but i do smell a strong odor. I guess a fuel filter is in order

Montre3 said:

So after i finish the brakes on my camry ill do a quick run down.

First thing that through me off is there is to connectors but only on plug on my maf

My filter isnt clogged but i nvr greased it but that can only be so detremental. (Spelling fail?)

Im not sure if the imput shaft is broke in there cause it starts but i think it fouls my plugs. Ill be checking as soon as i get home. Its so rich i can taste the fuel. Lol honestly i dnt see any smoke but i do smell a strong odor. I guess a fuel filter is in order

Click to expand...

One connector may be for the coolant level sensor. If your car has a VMM in the dash, that is what tells it if the coolant is low. I don't know if the non-VMM cars have the plug for the level sensor or not ... they might. The non-EGR cars have the plug for the EGR.