need some info or links on supercharger pulley install

FrankenBird

Registered User
I plan on buying this I estimate is 7% pulley and belt for my sc, its from spinningwheels so it cant be that junky..im just wondering if I can have some tips on install and removal. I know ille need to rent a pulley remover but I have no clue on how to get the new one on.
heres the one I plan on getting ! http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-95-THUND...0d5312c&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=351500943951
so any tips or links would be a great help. I also have 42lb injectors and a sample tube for them but will I need them yet with just this pulley,3in intake and 75mm throttle body.?
also any links on removing the injectors would be a help too as this supercharged motor is ALL NEW to me, I even see clips holding the injectors in to the fuel rail, that's new for me as ive only played with 4.6's and 5.0's..
thanks guys.lol I bet racecougar could answer all of these
 
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Supercharger Pulley R & R:
** Few tips off the top...it might be easier if the thermostat housing is out of the way (ask for tips if doing that) and be careful when using a puller to not bend the old pulley...do your best to work with a 3-jaw puller. Count the threads that stick out past the nut to gauge how far to install the new pulley onto the shaft so it sits in the same plane as the idler/tensioner, etc.

- Remove the nut (off is counter-clockwise) holding the pulley to the shaft first. You may want to use the belt to keep it from rotating. If you're lucky, it won't fight you. An air impact should make this very easy.
- Remove the belt by swinging the tensioner (yell if this is a new process for you).
- Remove the pulley - tap it gently from the back to see if it will come away easy. Again being careful to not ding or bend the pulley. If no luck easy, use a 3-jaw puller. In the case where it just won't budge, load it up with the puller and let it sit for a while...maybe use a small amount of heat. Early style supercharger pulleys have value, so do your best to avoid damage.

With the old pulley off, consider replacing the snout seal. Search here for tips: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/search.php?searchid=550305

Make sure the shaft is clean and smooth, then install the new pulley, paying attention to the index key. Use the nut to pull it in (don't be too aggressive if using an air impact...), checking thread count to get it in the same position as the old pulley. Reinstall the belt and run the engine to final check.

-=-=-=-
Injectors: see http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...y-Refreshed-Guys&highlight=remove+inlet+elbow
 
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so to put the new pulley on I line it up and use to bolt to pull it into place..? and once it is in line where it was do I stop tightening the bolt even if it not all the way tight? could I use a rubber mallet to tap it on to start the bolt if needed?
 
Nut, not bolt.

And sure, you can use a soft mallet to get it back a bit onto the shaft if needed. Confirm that the woodruff key is locating properly before you commit the nut and/or find the pulley is resisting.

Don't worry, it will be tight before it's lined up. Just don't force it/go in too far. The important thing is to keep the belt lined up across all the rotating parts. Take a photo before you disassemble for reference, in addition to counting threads. The two pulleys should be the same thickness.
 
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thanks man, im going to tackle it this weekend after my kids Bday party.
once its installed im going to take it easy on the car until I can get a set of catless downtubes and some turbo mufflers..
should I install the belt on it once I start getting the nut on so I can make for shur its lined up..?
 
How do you intend to check? Maybe your eyes are better than mine :)

After thread count to close ballpark, I use a laser tool to verify pulley alignment, but whatever works for you is good, I guess. If it's out of alignment, you'll see wear one one of the belt's shoulders pretty quickly, I think. That and one shoulder on the pulley polished more than the other, perhaps.
 
I took it to my mechanic and knew I wasn't in luck when he said " wow,thought they only made turbo coupes"..anyways he wanted extra for the plugs and wires because of the rear heater hose so I just said ille do it my self. he also didn't ave the proper pulley puller so I sdont have that on yet either. UGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all he got done for my was installing my 42lb injects, but atleast that freed up my old ones for sale. I know someone on here always needs them..
BUT I NEED TO ASK,DOES ANY ONE HAVE A PULLIE PULLER THEY USED I CAN BORROW..ship it to me and ille ship it back with some cash for ur time and shipping costs..i have a 73mm unit on the way with proper tube for my 42s and that 7% pulley and belt to go on yet as well as new oem plug and 10.2mm plug wires.im also going to cut my down tubes and unbolt them and hollow out the cats and weld it back up..
i hate garage power..
 
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The spinningwheels pullies that I used all measured at 10%. That being said, they also lack hard anodizing so wear out very quickly. Belt slip killed my boost.
Alan
 
You can most likely rent a pulley puller from your local automotive parts store. I know of a couple up here in Canada that do, and I had rented an elaborate $200 pulley puller set/ fastener removal set (ie: fuel line disconnectors) that way and returned it the next day. It's a heckuva lot cheaper than buying a tool that you may only use a couple of times.
 
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