Timing Chain Cover Removal- 1990 SC

hyper3199

Registered User
Quick Question. Does the whole cam sensor assembly have to come out for the timing chain cover to come off?

Thanks!
 
There is also a hex head bolt that holds the cover on in the lower front corner also. Don't miss that and break your cover.

Chris
 
Thanks! I did already find the sneaky hex head bolt thanks to this great forum. This water pump replacement is turning into quite a job. Thanks to this site I have found both motor mounts bad and the harmonic balancer. Is there anything else that is recommended that I look at as long as I have dug in this deep? Car has 129,000 miles on it. So far I have replaced the plugs, wires, and cam sensor. Motor mounts are going in now (drivers side is in).

Joe
 
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Thanks! I did already find the sneaky hex head bolt thanks to this great forum. This water pump replacement is turning into quite a job. Thanks to this site I have found both motor mounts bad and the harmonic balancer. Is there anything else that is recommended that I look at as long as I have dug in this deep? Car has 129,000 miles on it.

Joe

OH man...mission creep in full effect :).

If your timing cover is out, definitely front crank seal and maybe a timing set since it's all apart? Thermostat too since you've got a new water pump and will need to bleed the cooling system anyways? Good thing you got to those motor mounts & balancer changed. Those are pretty big and common issues with our cars. Crank & Cam sensors would be a very good idea. Check your steering hoses for leaks while you have some more space in the front. Double check and clean your oil cooler and coolant lines going to it. Some cleaning will probably be a good idea too!

Oh, and almost forgot the obvious.....good time for belts & idler pullies.
 
Good evening


In addition to what CaifanSC mention, and because the front of the car is on jack stands I would recommend to check, inspect and or replace the following:

Check Upper and Lower radiator hoses. Water Pump by-pass hose.

Check Oil Cooler coolant hoses for leaks.

I had to remove the Radiator(s) so I had it cleaned and pressure checked. If necessary clean Recovery Tank.

Check the Transmission Cooler lines (hose section) to Radiator for leaks (if automatic).

Clean outside of Condenser. Now would be an excellent time to replace insulation foam to seal Condenser to Radiator. Use a specific Radiator "comb" to straighten out bent fins. Bought at Harbor Freight.

Check for Accessory Belts and Pullies for service.

Check the Fan for binding and or rubbing. Check the electrical connector(s) for excessive cracking and or overheating.

Since you are replacing the Engine Mounts don't forget to check the Transmission Mount. Check the Negative Battery Cable (next to the drive side Engine Mount). If exposed insulation/cable wiring re-wrap and or replace.

Good Luck
 
Is there anything else that is recommended that I look at as long as I have dug in this deep?
Joe

Assuming you removed the intercooler, you might want to rinse it out w/gasoline to get rid of years of passed oil that tends to coat the inside over time.

I'd also R & R the power steering pump pulley and install a new front seal. Just buy a pump rebuild kit and stash for later what you don't use this time around.

Might be a good time to invest in some aluminum pulleys too ;)
 
Also inspect the power steering lines closely. Not all that easy with the oil pan still on, but if your motor mounts were bad for any length of time, the pan can/will settle down onto them and wear or crack them.


Adam
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Sounds like I'll be busy for quite some time. Got the motor mounts completely installed. Still working on the damn timing chain cover. Doesn't want to budge off the 2 threaded studs on the left side. Right side is loose. I'll be back at it tonight.

Joe
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Sounds like I'll be busy for quite some time. Got the motor mounts completely installed. Still working on the damn timing chain cover. Doesn't want to budge off the 2 threaded studs on the left side. Right side is loose. I'll be back at it tonight.

Joe

Take a small lever, ensure that all bolts are loose, off and then pry with gentle force. It should pop right off.
 
This, definitely a little prying involved...three jaw puller might help as well

I'd do light tapping around the cover with a rubber mallet. Once the bolts are out there may be some pin dowels to get loose (cant recall 100%) but those should come loose pretty quickly.

I'd be hesitant of prying around the actual sealing surfaces for fear of scoring which may lead to leaks.
 
Funny thing I'm doing the same. I have a major water leak between block and timing cover. Question do you need to pull the sc off to get the stalk out?
 
No - you don't. However, its a lot easier if you get the supercharger pulley and air-con compressor out of the way. It's been six months since I had to do it but it seemed to be the easy way for me.
 
Funny thing I'm doing the same. I have a major water leak between block and timing cover. Question do you need to pull the sc off to get the stalk out?

No, Mine came right out. The hard part is getting the bolt out that holds the stalk in. Not much room to get a tool in there.
 
No, Mine came right out. The hard part is getting the bolt out that holds the stalk in. Not much room to get a tool in there.

Small quarter inch drive ratchet with the star fitting in a 1/4" socket. Cake - just make sure you don't strip the head. I had to take my entire cover off because I stripped it putting it back in. (I torque things)
 
That lower left hand bolt by the oil filter..

Just pull the filter to expose or do you need to remove the whole oil pump/cooler assembly?

also, that single wire connection to the crankshaft sensor, does anyone have a source for it?

thanks.
 
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