Driveline upgrade questions

Metalcorpse

Registered User
Hey guys I have a few questions since I will be redoing all my suspension and modifying my driveline to accommodate higher horsepower I am in the middle on some stuff..

First, would a lightweight driveshaft or flywheel do anything for me that would make a noticeable difference dollar for dollar?

Second, if I change my differential ratio would this make my spedometer read wrong?
 
A lightweight flywheel will make the engine more responsive, but it will also make it harder to start from a stop on the street without revving the engine or slipping the clutch a lot. An aluminum driveshaft will not make any difference in terms of acceleration, but it will be less subject to vibration at higher speeds, and if you are considering changing the gear ratio, I highly recommend not keeping the stock ~~~ 2-piece crimped together driveshaft. As for changing the rear end ratio, yes that will mess with your speedometer, but you can change the gear on the speedo sensor in the trans to correct that.
 
So how would the flywheel change starting on an automatic? No clutch I'm aware of. Also any thoughts on the pinion brace?
 
So how would the flywheel change starting on an automatic? No clutch I'm aware of. Also any thoughts on the pinion brace?

No change with an automatic because it uses a flex plate instead of a flywheel. You really need to give people an idea of how much extra power you are expecting to make and exactly what you already have. I don't even know what year SC you are starting with. Creating a garage page and linking it to your signature would be the best way to show what you have now.

David
 
I have a 1990 XR7. Mostly stock. I have a rebuilt (built up) transmission and the larger mafs. I have a pp tb but can't install until I get a ported inlet. I plan on getting around 350hp at the crank when I'm done. It's a long term project for me.
 
My opinion is a stock flexplate is just fine for your that HP level. That is what I am using and my estimated HP level is just north of your plans. A lighter weight torque convertor can make a big difference, I am currently running a 2400 stall and I am pleased with it. Some others have gone up to 2800 stall and seem to like that as well.
 
As far as actual performance goes (driveline vibrations aside), an aluminum driveshaft won't be worth the money, because although it saves a lot of weight on the driveline, the driveshaft weight is so close to the center of rotation that it doesn't have much of an effect as something like lighter wheels, where the center of rotation is much further in distance from the outer diameter of the rotational mass.
 
I guessed as much. I am trying to find ways to send more power to the wheels by reducing imperfections in the driveline. My current project is redoing all the suspension and bushings, since I'll be dropping the subframe and replacing it all I figured I would redo my differential while I'm at it
 
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