Code Help Needed

hyper3199

Registered User
Please help me decipher these codes from a 1990 SC.

koeo codes:
54
18
19

koer codes:
98
54

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
54 O,C Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor circuit open

18 C Loss of TACH input to ECA; SPOUT circuit grounded
18 R SPOUT circuit open


19 O Failure in EEC reference voltage (except 3.8L SC)

98 R Hard Fault present

54 O,C Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor circuit open (not supposed to be KOER...not you repeated it from the top of the list)

Also, 18 is either C or R...

O=Key On Engine Off (KOEO) (codes with engine off)
C=Continuous Memory (codes stored when engine was running)
R=Engine Running (codes produced as engine is running)

If the EEC ground wire at the bulkhead, in front of the battery, is connected, and the center bolt holding the large connector to the EEC is in place/tight , I'd guess your EEC is having issues.

Are these codes in order when shown on the reader?

Why did you pull codes? What are the issues/symptoms?
 
54 O,C Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor circuit open

18 C Loss of TACH input to ECA; SPOUT circuit grounded
18 R SPOUT circuit open


19 O Failure in EEC reference voltage (except 3.8L SC)

98 R Hard Fault present

54 O,C Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor circuit open (not supposed to be KOER...not you repeated it from the top of the list)

Also, 18 is either C or R...

O=Key On Engine Off (KOEO) (codes with engine off)
C=Continuous Memory (codes stored when engine was running)
R=Engine Running (codes produced as engine is running)

If the EEC ground wire at the bulkhead, in front of the battery, is connected, and the center bolt holding the large connector to the EEC is in place/tight , I'd guess your EEC is having issues.

Are these codes in order when shown on the reader?

Why did you pull codes? What are the issues/symptoms?

Yes, I listed the codes in order off of the reader. The problem I have right now is a starting issue. It takes a few tries to get it started. After it starts, aside from idling a little rough, it runs very good. lots of power and never stalls or bucks like it used to. Also the Tach doesn't always work. I tried to do a cylinder balance test but it wouldn't. Said something about missing cylinder or not reading cylinder. I'll have to check to get the correct verbiage on that. Here is a list of things that I have done so far:

1)spark plugs and wires. Motorcraft plugs and Livewires from Supercoupe Performance.
2)replaced cam sensor
3)replaced crank sensor
4)replaced waterpump/thermostat
4)replaced harmonic balancer
5)motor mounts
6)replaced fuel pump. Wasn't holding pressure.

I will check grounds for EEC tonight.

Thank you for your time!
 
Last edited:
Wouldn't spout circuit grounded / spout circuit open be an indicator of an unstable wiring situation around whatever the spout circuit is? (it seems to be related to the tach circuit) which might explain your intermittent tach problem.
 
Just because you replaced a sensor doesn't mean it works... I went through 5 BWD cam sensors before I found a good one. I would try getting another one just in case you got a defective one. Also I would check the wires that run between the cam sensor and coil pack since the heat destroys the insulation around the wires. I cut the loom off and found some bare wires inside. It has to be related to the cam sensor since it runs sometimes. The computer basically ignores the signal and tries default timing settings. If you try to start it and it won't start, without turning the key to the off position, try again and the computer cycles through 3 different settings I believe.
 
Last edited:
That cam sensor or wiring could be it. Just never thought that the new cam sensor would be bad. I'm also wondering if somehow I got the cam sensor stalk in the wrong position when I removed the timing chain cover. I did mark the position and I thought I put it back the same but come to think of it I may have the part that spins off by 180 degrees. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks!
 
That's a common mistake also, either one could happen since the computer basically ignores the sensor if it thinks the signal is bad. A good sensor should show rpm on the tach no matter what I believe. First thing I would do is check the timing since you had the housing removed.
 
Back
Top