Falls on its face

Matt_aka_Dale

SCCoA Member
Under moderate to heavy acceleration, the car sputters. Now it use to be worse until I adjusted the cam synchro little by little counterclockwise. Now the question is if I should rotate it more or take it out and move the shaft by a tooth?
 
Good morning

I recommend you begin with base timing set up (#1 one cylinder, syncro position, pointer at 26 o ATDC). Information can be found in the forum search, Haynes, Chilton, and or factory service manual.

- Check harmonic balancer for wobble, elastometer (rubber) cracks and or separation, broken or missing bolt(s). If damage is found replace defective balancer. Try search.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...gine-makes-no-power&highlight=broken+balancer

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?105303-Timing-help

- Check DIS for damaged electrical harness and module for heat sink compound.

- Check Cam, Crank and MAF electrical connectors for service/security.

- Clean MAF sensor.

- Check for idle vacuum (@ 17 -20) at idle. If acceptable but problem persists proceed with the following:

- Pull codes.

- Check for vacuum leaks at supercharger, intercooler and lines.

- Check for exhaust leaks at exhaust manifold, EGR tube (if equipped).

- Check fuel pressure.


Hope this helps.


Good Luck.
 
Vacuum at idle is normal
Recently replaced fuel filter
Sprayed off MAF
EGR has been deleted
There might be some wobble in the harmonic
I did find a spliced-in wire around the DIS if remember correctly.
 
Check the outer ring on your balancer. It shouldn't spin at all. Wobble isn't good either. Signs of abnormal wobble include rubbing on the crank sensor.
 
Well the outer part of the balancer doesn't move. The crank sensor did seem a bit close to the fins, so I did move it slightly. Also I set the timing to roughly 20° and and the cam synchro as such. Now it makes it up to 5 and 6 psi of boost and doesn't stumble so bad under moderate acceleration. I still need to see how it does at WOT. All I have been doing is moving the cam synchro within the specifications (6°- 30°).
 
Good evening

I would recommend you recheck the timing. Prior to start timing is set 26 o ATDC indicated at the harmonic balancer with the cam synco window pointing to the # 1 piston compression stroke and 6-30 o counter clockwise from front center line of engine. With the engine running and a timing light you can disconnect the spout plug to verify base timing. Try search. Moving the cam syncro back and forth defeats accurate ignition function and not recommended. As stated in Chilton FordThunderbird/Cougar repair manual, Chapter 2 Engine Electrical, Synchronizer Assembly;

"Make sure the camshaft sensor electrical connection is positioned properly (i.e. not contacting the A/C braket or forward of the supercharger drive belt) Do not reposition the connector
by rotating the synchronizer base. This will result in the ignition system and fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage. Remove the synchronizer and repeat the installation procedure".

Some cam sensors manufactures have a caution tag advising the same. As stated in your last post presetting the timing closer to ideal contributed to better running engine operation.



http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?133363-cam-sensor-and-timing&highlight=base+timing


http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?133363-cam-sensor-and-timing&highlight=base+timing


I still recommend double checking the harmonic balancer for service.


-Is this the original balancer (Ford marking logo or part number)? If so the balancer is suspect.


-Did you inspected the elastomer (rubber) for damage? Removal the crank pulley and a strong light is necessary.


-Did you check the balancer for wobble? Try search.


http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?61469-93-sc-losing-power-now-barely-runs

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?54669-Running-bad-on-startup


Thunderbirds are never easy.




Good Luck.
 
I re-did the timing. It might be better by a tiny bit, but still stumbles at more than 5psi. The balancer looks like it has seen better days.
 
New balancer is on and timing was readjusted. Acceleration is much better. Still some stutter, but around 8-10 psi. Which is better than it was.
 
Spoke too soon. Still does some "dieseling". Should I try different plugs? These are motorcraft ones, but look smaller than the ones pictured in the linked article.
 
They don't have the thin, needle like tips.

After reading a few of the related threads, low fuel pressure, low fuel flow, and blocked cats could be a cause of a stumble.

Not sure if it helps any, but I'll list what I have now.

-10% OD SC pulley
-A/C delete w/ 3.8 n/a tensioner and shorter belt
-short MAC intake w/ 76mm MAF
-EGR delete
-Comp cam's Xtreme energy 44-700-9 camshaft
Everything else is stock
 
what injectors? perhaps you are going lean and pulling timing or knocking? so no tune with the cam change...im not aware of how aggressive that is, im going to guess pretty mild.
 
Good morning


-10% OD SC pulley
-A/C delete w/ 3.8 n/a tensioner and shorter belt
-short MAC intake w/ 76mm MAF
-EGR delete
-Comp cam's Xtreme energy 44-700-9 camshaft
Everything else is stock

-Have you pulled codes?

-Are you satisfied with the spark plugs/wires inspection? Try search.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?131295-I-need-the-SC-experts!-shutter-under-boost

-What sampling tube are you using for the MAF/fuel injector? Try search.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?129852-76-mm-C-amp-L-MAF-issues

-Is the heat sink compound good for the DIS? Try search.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?129890-Heat-Synch-info



Verify fuel pressure.


Good Luck.
 
Last edited:
what injectors? perhaps you are going lean and pulling timing or knocking? so no tune with the cam change...im not aware of how aggressive that is, im going to guess pretty mild.

As far as I know, the injectors are the factory ones.
No tune, since I figured it wouldn't need it if the cam wasn't a big enough step up from stock.

I also have yet to check fuel pressure(I only get so much free time). DIS heatsink paste is good. Also I will check the sampling tube soon. Plugs and wires are okay.
 
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