Temp gauge Question 1995 SC

1qwik99

Registered User
I've read all the past threads on temp settings. There is nothing in the manual talking about what the gauge should show for any particular temperature. I recently replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, temp sensor, Rad cap, power flushed the system, back flushed the system and cleaned out the overflow tank. When I take it on the fwy with the AC on (it's now over 100 degrees) during the day, and the gauge goes to the "M" and sometimes a bit passed that, then when I slow down to get off the fwy it cools down to the "O" or the "R". My heat gun showed 205-207 degrees when I got home with the gauge about half way through the NORM range. I also made sure the new temp sensor was secure and clear of any corrosion.

Is this normal?
 
Yes, no, maybe. Where did you test with the temp gun?

Sounds like mine when I think the cooling system is working correctly, just keep in mind there is a TSB about mis-matched senders and gauges...something about nervous owners showing up at the dealer worried something was seriously wrong with an otherwise functional cooling system.
 
temp sender

Yes, no, maybe. Where did you test with the temp gun?

Sounds like mine when I think the cooling system is working correctly, just keep in mind there is a TSB about mis-matched senders and gauges...something about nervous owners showing up at the dealer worried something was seriously wrong with an otherwise functional cooling system.

I thought that TSB was for oil pressure senders. I tested the water pump, sender, Thermostat housing, and lower hose mounting area. I never really paid that much attention to it as I don;t drive it a whole lot but now I have been and it's summer.
 
Last edited:
Temp sender

It's not erratic I just bought a new sender from Rock auto and it' the FORD Motorcraft one. My car has a factory chin spoiler if yo could call it that..lol The cap is a lever type 16# but I also have the stock one but new. Not tried water wetter on this car. Have in the GTO but no real difference in there either. I am using the brand new Spectre radiator also.
The gauge shows in the middle until I get over 65 mph then it goes to the "M" or just past that until I slow down, then it cools off back to the middle. I do smell coolant after shutting down but no leaks are visible even adding pressure externally to the system.
 
Remember too, that it takes a village to get all the air out of the system, so once you close it up, leave it alone.

Otherwise, I think you're good to go.
 
Remember too, that it takes a village to get all the air out of the system, so once you close it up, leave it alone.

Otherwise, I think you're good to go.


So no other tricks to getting any air out of the system?
 
With the car cold you can remove the fill bolt and the radiator cap. Service the radiator until fluid comes out of the fill bolt. Close the rad cap. Start the car. Warm the engine at idle (no extra throttle). Once the thermostat opens you'll see bubbles start to come out of the fill bolt (near the thermostat housing). When water begins to flow out close the bolt. Fill the outer reservoir to the full hot line (assuming the engine is at operating temp). You should have all the air out of the loop. Burping the top fill bolt is the trick.

As for the temp guage - mine reads at the M in the summer (checked it yesterday after a drive to Salem). My FLIR camera on my iPhone showed 203F at the fill bolt.
 
So no other tricks to getting any air out of the system?

Lots of tricks, from doing what the factory does on the line to jacking the front of the car up to encourage the air to hit the overflow, but in my experience, it's all about using the bleeder when filling, then driving it for a few days, keeping your hands in your pockets.
 
Temp gauge

Lots of tricks, from doing what the factory does on the line to jacking the front of the car up to encourage the air to hit the overflow, but in my experience, it's all about using the bleeder when filling, then driving it for a few days, keeping your hands in your pockets.

My alignment is great,but not good enough to keep my hands in my pockets...lol
 
I've read all the past threads on temp settings. There is nothing in the manual talking about what the gauge should show for any particular temperature. I recently replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, temp sensor, Rad cap, power flushed the system, back flushed the system and cleaned out the overflow tank. When I take it on the fwy with the AC on (it's now over 100 degrees) during the day, and the gauge goes to the "M" and sometimes a bit passed that, then when I slow down to get off the fwy it cools down to the "O" or the "R". My heat gun showed 205-207 degrees when I got home with the gauge about half way through the NORM range. I also made sure the new temp sensor was secure and clear of any corrosion.

Is this normal?

Sounds normal to me!
 
Sounds normal to me too. I run approximately 66% distilled water and 33% antifreeze plus 12 ounces of water wetter in the summer. That plus a 180 degree thermostat and fan temps programed to come on @ 193 degrees puller and 200 degrees pusher. On hot days freeway driving (70 mph up) with AC on the needle will still creep up close to the M in norm. Cooling system thoroughly bled...it's just the nature of the beast.
 
Last edited:
Temp gauge

It's just so much different than my 2002 Mountaineer or 2001 F350 DRW, they both stay just below halfway on the dash gauge no matter how hot it is or how fast I'm going. The Tbird is so much more comfy though for long trips. :D
 
Back
Top