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ganuolfthegrey
07-17-2016, 02:26 PM
brand new aluminum rad ebay one
stock aluminum water pump pulley
stock crank pulley
180 t-stat with qh tuned for it
still working on base tune with the help of dalke
intown no ac on 196 to 200 highway 210 temps
intown with ac on 214 to 220. turn it off and it cools back off. havnt tried it on highway yet
has 1 around bottle of royal ice in it. had put 2 in bottles in. but when I had a friend recheck the bleeding I think I lost a good bit of it.
fairl new hose's to less the 2k miles on them.
I know the ebay rad isn't helping much.
but anything else I can look at?
brand new motor and trans in the car.

KMT
07-17-2016, 03:30 PM
Are the side air deflectors on the radiator still in place?

Is the lower chin spoiler that helps to create a negative pressure zone underneath the motor still in place?

Has the car been lowered?

What pressure cap? Straight 16# or is it a range? Lever type?

How long has that 180 stat been in?

Seems slightly odd it would run that much higher w/AC on, as that should run the fan all the time, I think. Confirmed the A/C condenser is clean/not blocked? Maybe the new motor needs to break in...

ganuolfthegrey
07-17-2016, 09:19 PM
it has all the defelctors
cap is new straight 16
t-stat and cap are less than 4 months old
yes the front only is lowered
brand new ac/system and condenser
autometer gauge was reading 210 maybe a little more
qh was saying anywhere from 214 to 220 depending on normal or max
both fan speeds seem to be working checked tonight

20psiofevil
07-17-2016, 09:59 PM
You could try to run more water instead of glycol based antifreeze. I have a turbo 4.3 stroker and run 100% purified drinking water with 18 oz of purple ice, tj/yj 2.5t-4.0l jeep radiator (chosen for compact and downflow design), 20" fan, 160* t-stat, high fan trigger 177 which is low as it will go. In town 185-190, after a wot pull it will hit 205*. 95* outside temp. Just did this test today because I flushed my coolant system today. Around town maintained 2500rpm to see how hot it would get the when I got on a straight stretch I laid into it for a 3rd gear blast.

sam jones
07-17-2016, 10:25 PM
Good evening

- How old and what condition is the water pump?

- Was a coolant flush done prior to radiator install?

- Does the new condenser installation include the insulation sealing foam?

- Does the new thermostat have the "bleed hole" feature?

Good Luck.

Jacob_Royer
07-18-2016, 08:50 AM
Its that damn radiator! i fought high temps for YEARS on 2 different motors switched to a new oem style radiator and my car runs 190f/200f on a 90s day and no more than 210 sitting in traffic with the ac on 95f outside. i couldn't even use the AC with the damn alluminum radiator and if i drove over 70mph it would overheat! also i am running a large FMIC so i am more than pleased with the oem radiator

ganuolfthegrey
07-18-2016, 09:49 AM
Water pump and entire cooling system is new with the motor. Jacob thats what i am thinking. Want to get a griffe. Soon.

Jacob_Royer
07-18-2016, 02:58 PM
Water pump and entire cooling system is new with the motor. Jacob thats what i am thinking. Want to get a griffe. Soon.

I was going to go Griffin but the cost was high and a local member had this one new in a box for 75$ so i bought it to get by and amazingly all my cooling issues went away! I even had done a headgasket job thinking that it was the problem at one point! I had a used motor in my car for the 2014 shootout i pulled out of a car i parted out and it ran cool in the parts car and hot in mine only difference being the radiator and the parts car had a really sketchy looking stock radiator in it. I seriously fought cooling issues forever and would not recommend the cheapo aluminum radiator to my worst enemy! That 100$ piece of *)(@*)(#@ cost me a fortune and took years off my life in pain suffering and mental anguish! A new OEM radiator works great and with you running a DBL IC instead of a FMIC it will work even better than mine does. I would have thought a stroker motor would need a griffin but hell no! I went to the track the other day high 90's outside and beating on it never saw over 210f! very happy and wish i would have bought one years ago! I have been fighting this crap since 2007! I highly recommend picking one up and you can always keep it for a spare if a deal on a griffin comes along. I just the other day drove the car over 100miles round trip with the ac on in mid 90's on the interstate and had zero cooling issues which is a nice thing after fighting with it for years!

Jacob_Royer
07-18-2016, 03:00 PM
One more thing i'd run a aftermarket external tranny cooler bar and plate style NOT tube and fin and completely bypass the cooler in the radiator. That way if the radiator takes a ~~~~ you don't get coolant in the tranny or vice versa plus it will run a little cooler. Also if you are running anything over a stock stall the intergrated cooler is not adequate as a loose one will generate ALOT of heat! I actually run a 15$ cooler from a powerstroke econoline i picked up at pull a part. Glad to see you finally getting the car running and driving again i can relate to having one apart forever! There is not much better than finally getting the damn thing where you can actually drive/enjoy it when you want to.

ganuolfthegrey
07-18-2016, 09:03 PM
thanks for the info Jacob. I thought the aluminum would be at least alittle better than stock. lol not. thank god dalke had me take the underdrives off.
the tranny has a 2,800 stall with 3:73 gears I had a extra tranny cooler that sat infront of the condenser. but trashed it because my tranny builder said it wasn't needed. plus it was blocking airflow.

Jacob_Royer
07-19-2016, 05:30 AM
thanks for the info Jacob. I thought the aluminum would be at least alittle better than stock. lol not. thank god dalke had me take the underdrives off.
the tranny has a 2,800 stall with 3:73 gears I had a extra tranny cooler that sat infront of the condenser. but trashed it because my tranny builder said it wasn't needed. plus it was blocking airflow.

If you're tranny guy thinks a stock cooler is ok with 2800 stall id look for a new tranny guy lol they get super hot
with loose converters

DrFishbone
07-21-2016, 12:12 PM
If you want an aluminum one with higher capacity and can make some mounting brackets to fit your arrangement, the Jeg's universal Ford radiators work great and they're cheap. I've used mine for 7 years now and still love it. I think I've just about outgrown it though....went with the small one at first (19" I think)...I'll try the next size up next time.

XR7 Dave
07-22-2016, 07:41 AM
Guys, he doesn't have a FMIC and he doesn't have fabrication abilities. Bolt in is required.

David Neibert
07-22-2016, 05:02 PM
Guys, he doesn't have a FMIC and he doesn't have fabrication abilities. Bolt in is required.

Then a Griffin is what he really needs. I fought cooling issues for years and finally solved them when I installed the Griffin radiator.

David

Jacob_Royer
07-22-2016, 11:59 PM
Then a Griffin is what he really needs. I fought cooling issues for years and finally solved them when I installed the Griffin radiator.

David

All my cooling isues went away with a new oem radiator and I have an fmic and use my ac
he is running a double ic so a new stock radiator will more than work. The aluminum radiators
From radiator express are garbage