ARC Retrofit?

atlantis737

Registered User
Hey guys,

I am looking to add adjustable ride to my '93 Cougar. I am looking at two different options - either retrofitting a factory ARC system in, or custom fabricating a Bilstein B16 RideControl system to fit. If I retrofitted the ARC system I would not hook up the entire system, just the adjustable shocks, actuators, and the switch. I am not very familiar with how the factory system worked so I'm not sure which option would be best. Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated.
 
The old system using Tokico shocks(if they are still available) are pretty straight forward, an actuator on each shock nd the switch. What may be difficult is getting the entire wiring harness. The actuator I believe does a 1/4 turn of the actuator pin.
 
Its a lot to swap, if you want full functionality. There is a computer under the rear package tray that is tied into the power steering EVO, ABS, steering input sensor, etc. If anything isn't hooked up, the ARC system may disable and flash a code with the Firm Ride light to indicate what isn't functioning properly. On top of that the Tokicos are super expensive.

If your 93 Cougar is a 5.0 it will already have EVO. If its equipped with ABS, it will be identical to the SC system. So it would just be a matter of tieing it all into the ARC.

If it were me, I would explore other avenues.
 
I'd do the Bilsteins. Much easier, I think, and you'd be way happier in the long run.
 
Thank you all for the responses. I did not intend to have full functionality, but also did not want any annoying idiot lights. It is a 3.8L XR-7, but of course being a 93 it is not supercharged. Bilstein does not have any kits that are a direct bolt-in, and when I tried calling them, they were less than receptive to my ideas of custom-fitting their product to my car (for obvious reasons :D) so would anyone know (or know someone who would) of a car that has comparable strut dimensions to make the swap easier?
 
Have you looked at the wiring harness to see if it has unused connectors, say in the package tray under the rear window deck? Have you driven an SC with ARC so you can judge the on/off/auto modes? The difference isn't that dramatic, I think.

As for options, what's your budget? There aren't alot of aftermarket choices...and some would argue the suspension doesn't actually use struts.
 
Have you looked at the wiring harness to see if it has unused connectors, say in the package tray under the rear window deck? Have you driven an SC with ARC so you can judge the on/off/auto modes? The difference isn't that dramatic, I think.

As for options, what's your budget? There aren't alot of aftermarket choices...and some would argue the suspension doesn't actually use struts.

No to both, but there are a set of Tokicos for a little over $600 and it says they are valved to "40% stiffer than stock in the "Firm" mode".

I don't really have a budget. Right this second I couldn't shell out anything more than a few hundred dollars, but if it's more than that I have no issues with saving up. I am aware the suspension is technically rear shocks, front coilover shocks, but if I am not retrofitting an ARC system then the only aftermarket option I am aware of is the Bilstein B16 ridecontrol system, which is a 4-strut system. It is not available as a direct bolt-in for any MN12 car, so I need to figure out a car that it is available for in similar dimensions so I can use that kit as a starting point.
 
yeahhhh....that 40% is a bit of a stretch, I think. Mostly marketing. More like 'soft' to 'not quite so soft'.

One of the vendors that supports the SC sells something I'm sure you'd love ride wise, especially if you want 'firmer' (not elect. tho), but it's pricey compared to the toks. See: https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/suspension-chassis-30 - about $3k for all 4 corners.
 
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Thing is, I live in Detroit, Pothole Capital of America, so for 75% of my driving I need soft suspension. On the highway and/or when I do find a smooth patch of road, I would like to be able to switch over to a stiffer suspension at the push of a button. If the ARC system won't do this for me then I'm more than happy to shell out the money and time for a Bilstein system, I just need help finding what kit to start with.
 
99-04 Cobra rear suspension is extremely similar to ours. The front is of similar design, but nothing is directly interchangeable to my knowledge. Even so, that would be the closest vehicle I would start with finding a kit for.
 
99-04 Cobra rear suspension is extremely similar to ours. The front is of similar design, but nothing is directly interchangeable to my knowledge. Even so, that would be the closest vehicle I would start with finding a kit for.

Any others? Similar dimensions is all I really need, I can fabricate new mounts to fit. The Bilstein Application Guide is here: http://www.bilsteinus.com/uploads/tx_templavoila/BilsteinAppGuide308_28.pdf and it does not list that the B16s can fit the Cobra.
 
99-04 Cobra rear suspension is extremely similar to ours. The front is of similar design, but nothing is directly interchangeable to my knowledge. Even so, that would be the closest vehicle I would start with finding a kit for.

The SN95 front suspension isn't remotely close to a Supercoupe. One uses McPherson struts, while the other uses unequal length control arms.

OP, what's your goal here? Sorry to be that guy, but is an NA V6 worth all the cost and trouble?
 
The SN95 front suspension isn't remotely close to a Supercoupe. One uses McPherson struts, while the other uses unequal length control arms.

OP, what's your goal here? Sorry to be that guy, but is an NA V6 worth all the cost and trouble?

You are correct Mercutio. I was thinking of my buddies terminator, but forgot he has a coilover conversion on it. Its set up like our cars except for the LCA/strutrod.
 
OP, what's your goal here? Sorry to be that guy, but is an NA V6 worth all the cost and trouble?

Best way to state the goal would be "just because" I suppose. I bought this car for $300 with the intention of just tinkering with it and learning, so if it turns out awesome or gets completely destroyed, I don't really care. I know how to work on cars pretty well, I took the ASEs for fun and passed, though I know that doesn't necessarily make me a pro. No, an NA V6 is not worth all the cost and trouble. But the challenge, fun, and learning absolutely is. No hard feelings though, I'm used to that question :)
 
Best way to state the goal would be "just because" I suppose. I bought this car for $300 with the intention of just tinkering with it and learning, so if it turns out awesome or gets completely destroyed, I don't really care. I know how to work on cars pretty well, I took the ASEs for fun and passed, though I know that doesn't necessarily make me a pro. No, an NA V6 is not worth all the cost and trouble. But the challenge, fun, and learning absolutely is. No hard feelings though, I'm used to that question :)

1) 99-04 Cobra rears will bolt right up to the MN12 chassis.
2) for the fronts, several people have cut open their front shocks and installed inserts to achieve properly stuff front dampeners.

You can learn more about both on TCCOA's suspension section but to set your expectations accordingly, you'll probably spend more on these shocks than you have in this car already ($100/corner)
 
If you don't care about the automatic firm ride function, it should be easy to wire up the shocks and actuators to a switch. I'm not 100% sure what kind of signal moves the actuators, but it may just be 12V power...maybe +12V/-12V...
 
If you don't care about the automatic firm ride function, it should be easy to wire up the shocks and actuators to a switch. I'm not 100% sure what kind of signal moves the actuators, but it may just be 12V power...maybe +12V/-12V...

I'd be interested if the actuators are live/12v hot constant, or just long enough to shunt.
 
If you don't care about the automatic firm ride function, it should be easy to wire up the shocks and actuators to a switch. I'm not 100% sure what kind of signal moves the actuators, but it may just be 12V power...maybe +12V/-12V...

The guy selling the Tokico shocks said that, and that is what I'm looking for, but I'm not sure if it's what I'm really looking for, if the tokicos are very soft even in the "firm" mode...
 
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