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SCRat
10-27-2016, 01:47 PM
Alright so i'm using a 89 SC engine for a project of mine and am trying to figure out what trans to use. I'm trying to keep it cheap for now and was looking at getting a good used AOD and then a higher stall converter and manual CPVB and A+ servo from SilverFox. But as i was reading on the site, it seems as though i could go with an AODE with the bigger OD band and reverse drum if i use the Manual VB. So does the Manual VB on the AODE actually get rid of all the electronic controls so i wouldn't have to buy the controller/harness for it? It would make sense if it did but just want to make sure i'm not missing something.

aroot1
10-27-2016, 05:48 PM
Check out the thread "AOD mods?". I was just asking the same questions. Seems the majority opinion is to just skip the AOD and get a 4R70W. It has been improved in just about every aspect, it just requires a stand alone controller. With the J-Mod it seems like the best bang 4 the buck. Unfortunately, I had already purchased an AOD with low miles on a rebuild b4 I got this info..... I'm going with the A+ servo, B&M shift improver kit (had from previous parts deal) and POSSIBLY a converter. Want to b able to drive the car all year in Ohio...... Not sure a converter would b condusive to that :cool:

Adam

bowez
10-27-2016, 05:56 PM
If you want a AODE get a 4R70w. You can put AODE/4R70w internals in an AOD. Though yes a Manual VB will defeat the auto shifts but not the TC clutch engagement.

20psiofevil
10-27-2016, 05:59 PM
My pa vb is full manual and there is no computer control. For the price I wish I had went with Freddie brown though. The pa requires a deep pan but my buddy has the fb in his 3v and uses stock pan. Just something to keep in mind.

SCRat
10-28-2016, 12:32 AM
Then i guess i'll be going with the AODE with the manual VB, from what i under stood the OD is on a 12v swith so that won't be a problem. Isn't the 4r70 for the modular bolt pattern? I don't want to spend a bunch of money having a shop build a trans since the lowest estimate i got was 1,500 for a stock rebuild with a 12 month warranty. I don't ever really plan on putting out much more power then what it has stock since the finshed vehicle will only weight around 2600-2800 pounds. Plus i can get an good AODE for basically free.

SCRat
10-28-2016, 01:53 AM
Scratch that lol went and did some more research. I guess i'll find a v6 mustang with the 4r70 and put a manual valve body and converter in it, don't really want to spend 800 on a controller and i really like choosing my gears. Thanks for the help.

Jacob_Royer
10-28-2016, 02:10 PM
Just build an aod and be happy.. A 4r70w without controller defeats the purpose of one.

SCRat
10-29-2016, 01:33 AM
I'm going to go ahead with the 70 it has lower first and second and better internals which will be nice if i ever decide to go crazy with the engine later. I can get a good one for $100

Jacob_Royer
10-29-2016, 03:45 AM
I have the 4r70w gear set in mine also the bigger od band and mechanical diode

bowez
10-29-2016, 06:26 AM
While I didn't get the 4R70w gear set my internals surpass stock 4Rs. A 4R70w is just a computer controlled AOD, one has no distinct advantage over the other.

XR7 Dave
10-29-2016, 08:07 AM
With a light car like that I can't imagine you really want a lower first gear. I know it was a popular mod for awhile with SC guys to install the 4R gearset, but after awhile people realized that with a roots supercharged car all that means is more wheel spin.

If you do find a V6 mustang to pull the trans out of, I recommend yanking the wiring harness and converting your whole engine over to the Mustang EEC, that way you get maximum control of everything. I forget what years have BE control from Derek, but being able to tune the whole thing with one program trumps any kind of aftermarket controller, etc.

I know people who have tried all the methods talked about above, and I base this recommendation on their experiences.

SCRat
10-29-2016, 10:43 AM
So i should just go with the AODE then? i'm using a mark 8 rear that has 3.08 gears in it at the moment and figured with the lower 1st and second i could just swap in gear (since i need to anyway) to account for the lower 1st and second and further drop highway rpms at the same time. I really want the larger od band because i live in a hilly/mountainous area and i don't want to be in 3rd going up the long inclines at 3500rpm. I also really want the manual valve body since i can't really use a manual in the vehicle since i drive in big cities and because of all the steep hills just suck, but i like to choose my gears. It makes it fun and makes me feel cool lol.

SCRat
10-29-2016, 10:56 AM
Also if i swapped the the mustang harness and computer (i actually did use the search bar) from what i read on here in an older post that i would lose the knock sensor which kind of frightens me on a boosted car. I'm also not that good with wiring which was why i liked the idea of using the SC stuff since it's obd1 and pretty simple since i don't really need the dash harness with the OBD1 port. Granted i have only owned one boosted car which was my 90 SuperCoupe but i never got around to modifying it since 3rd gear exploded shortly after i got it. But i'm here to learn and take any good reasonable advice.

aroot1
10-29-2016, 06:27 PM
Also if i swapped the the mustang harness and computer (i actually did use the search bar) from what i read on here in an older post that i would lose the knock sensor which kind of frightens me on a boosted car. I'm also not that good with wiring which was why i liked the idea of using the SC stuff since it's obd1 and pretty simple since i don't really need the dash harness with the OBD1 port. Granted i have only owned one boosted car which was my 90 SuperCoupe but i never got around to modifying it since 3rd gear exploded shortly after i got it. But i'm here to learn and take any good reasonable advice.

Not good with wiring, so you chose a SC engine swap?????? :confused: :eek: Good luck with that. Most of the faster, highly modified SC's lose the knock sensor in the tune anyway, I would not b afraid of that, BUT it does mean ur tune better b pretty good

Adam

20psiofevil
10-29-2016, 06:41 PM
The Caspers knock gauge may be something you're interested in.

SCRat
10-29-2016, 08:10 PM
I figured with the SC being obd1 there would be minimal wiring. I have the engine harness and it doesn't look bad at all, is there something I'm missing then? Like I said here to learn

bowez
10-29-2016, 08:44 PM
It is minimal once you lose the DIS, ARC, IRCM, ABS, and SATC

S4gunn
11-02-2016, 05:13 PM
The Caspers knock gauge may be something you're interested in.

I don't have any experience with the Casper's gauge but I added a knock sensor to my 302/V8 (from a VW it bolted onto the block without any drama) and it works quite well with this knock gauge i found online in my tbird track car.
I could directly see this gauge working when a) I tested it by tapping on the block with a rubber mallet and b) experienced a good deal of knock when my first V8 rebuild attempt became quite unhappy on the track.

http://knockgauge.eu/products-listing/product/cid-1.html