AODE with manual VB?

S

SCRat

Registered User
Alright so i'm using a 89 SC engine for a project of mine and am trying to figure out what trans to use. I'm trying to keep it cheap for now and was looking at getting a good used AOD and then a higher stall converter and manual CPVB and A+ servo from SilverFox. But as i was reading on the site, it seems as though i could go with an AODE with the bigger OD band and reverse drum if i use the Manual VB. So does the Manual VB on the AODE actually get rid of all the electronic controls so i wouldn't have to buy the controller/harness for it? It would make sense if it did but just want to make sure i'm not missing something.
 
Check out the thread "AOD mods?". I was just asking the same questions. Seems the majority opinion is to just skip the AOD and get a 4R70W. It has been improved in just about every aspect, it just requires a stand alone controller. With the J-Mod it seems like the best bang 4 the buck. Unfortunately, I had already purchased an AOD with low miles on a rebuild b4 I got this info..... I'm going with the A+ servo, B&M shift improver kit (had from previous parts deal) and POSSIBLY a converter. Want to b able to drive the car all year in Ohio...... Not sure a converter would b condusive to that :cool:

Adam
 
If you want a AODE get a 4R70w. You can put AODE/4R70w internals in an AOD. Though yes a Manual VB will defeat the auto shifts but not the TC clutch engagement.
 
My pa vb is full manual and there is no computer control. For the price I wish I had went with Freddie brown though. The pa requires a deep pan but my buddy has the fb in his 3v and uses stock pan. Just something to keep in mind.
 
Then i guess i'll be going with the AODE with the manual VB, from what i under stood the OD is on a 12v swith so that won't be a problem. Isn't the 4r70 for the modular bolt pattern? I don't want to spend a bunch of money having a shop build a trans since the lowest estimate i got was 1,500 for a stock rebuild with a 12 month warranty. I don't ever really plan on putting out much more power then what it has stock since the finshed vehicle will only weight around 2600-2800 pounds. Plus i can get an good AODE for basically free.
 
Scratch that lol went and did some more research. I guess i'll find a v6 mustang with the 4r70 and put a manual valve body and converter in it, don't really want to spend 800 on a controller and i really like choosing my gears. Thanks for the help.
 
I'm going to go ahead with the 70 it has lower first and second and better internals which will be nice if i ever decide to go crazy with the engine later. I can get a good one for $100
 
While I didn't get the 4R70w gear set my internals surpass stock 4Rs. A 4R70w is just a computer controlled AOD, one has no distinct advantage over the other.
 
With a light car like that I can't imagine you really want a lower first gear. I know it was a popular mod for awhile with SC guys to install the 4R gearset, but after awhile people realized that with a roots supercharged car all that means is more wheel spin.

If you do find a V6 mustang to pull the trans out of, I recommend yanking the wiring harness and converting your whole engine over to the Mustang EEC, that way you get maximum control of everything. I forget what years have BE control from Derek, but being able to tune the whole thing with one program trumps any kind of aftermarket controller, etc.

I know people who have tried all the methods talked about above, and I base this recommendation on their experiences.
 
So i should just go with the AODE then? i'm using a mark 8 rear that has 3.08 gears in it at the moment and figured with the lower 1st and second i could just swap in gear (since i need to anyway) to account for the lower 1st and second and further drop highway rpms at the same time. I really want the larger od band because i live in a hilly/mountainous area and i don't want to be in 3rd going up the long inclines at 3500rpm. I also really want the manual valve body since i can't really use a manual in the vehicle since i drive in big cities and because of all the steep hills just suck, but i like to choose my gears. It makes it fun and makes me feel cool lol.
 
Also if i swapped the the mustang harness and computer (i actually did use the search bar) from what i read on here in an older post that i would lose the knock sensor which kind of frightens me on a boosted car. I'm also not that good with wiring which was why i liked the idea of using the SC stuff since it's obd1 and pretty simple since i don't really need the dash harness with the OBD1 port. Granted i have only owned one boosted car which was my 90 SuperCoupe but i never got around to modifying it since 3rd gear exploded shortly after i got it. But i'm here to learn and take any good reasonable advice.
 
SCRat said:
Also if i swapped the the mustang harness and computer (i actually did use the search bar) from what i read on here in an older post that i would lose the knock sensor which kind of frightens me on a boosted car. I'm also not that good with wiring which was why i liked the idea of using the SC stuff since it's obd1 and pretty simple since i don't really need the dash harness with the OBD1 port. Granted i have only owned one boosted car which was my 90 SuperCoupe but i never got around to modifying it since 3rd gear exploded shortly after i got it. But i'm here to learn and take any good reasonable advice.
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Not good with wiring, so you chose a SC engine swap?????? :confused: :eek: Good luck with that. Most of the faster, highly modified SC's lose the knock sensor in the tune anyway, I would not b afraid of that, BUT it does mean ur tune better b pretty good

Adam
 
I figured with the SC being obd1 there would be minimal wiring. I have the engine harness and it doesn't look bad at all, is there something I'm missing then? Like I said here to learn
 
20psiofevil said:
The Caspers knock gauge may be something you're interested in.
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I don't have any experience with the Casper's gauge but I added a knock sensor to my 302/V8 (from a VW it bolted onto the block without any drama) and it works quite well with this knock gauge i found online in my tbird track car.
I could directly see this gauge working when a) I tested it by tapping on the block with a rubber mallet and b) experienced a good deal of knock when my first V8 rebuild attempt became quite unhappy on the track.

http://knockgauge.eu/products-listing/product/cid-1.html
 
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