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davec73
11-14-2016, 08:50 PM
Well as alot of you know one of my headgasket's sprung a leak so I will be giving the motor a good refreshing as well as a few other things. I just recently replaced the valve springs but I am sending my cylinder heads to scui to have them converted to 7/16 stud mount, also having them pressure tested and the full work up. As far as the motor goes I pulled it out today and I am going to start disassembly tomorrow. I have had crank case pressure issues for a while now so hopefully freshening up the motor to remedy that. I am going to add a double roller timing set, high performance lifters and I am ditching the pcv system for moroso crank case breathers. While the motor is out I'm going to completely refinish the engine bay and paint it. I am also upgrading the stereo system to a more racing friendly setup and installing an aluminum wall behind the rear seat to make it nhra legal. I am also upgrading the drag wheels and tires to 17" skinnies and 15x8 welds with Hoosier 27" slicks. I will post pics as things progress.

davec73
11-25-2016, 12:29 AM
well the motor is out and apart the bottom end looks good, no sign of headgasket/antifreeze damage. While its apart it will get new rings, cylinder hone, new bearings, cleaned and checked out thoroughly. I plan to add a double roller timing set and hp lifters internally and possibly have the cylinder heads converted to 7/16 stud mount.
While the motor was out I painted and detailed the engine bay and prepared it to accept the motor because I have decided to make some more changes while its apart. I plan to add a new Kenne Bell 2.1 Big bore blower when it goes back together since the motor will be good and tight.

I also have the full set of wheels and I am going to run 26.5 5.5 radials up front on 17 x 4.5 race star skinnies and 27 10.50 15 hoosier quick times out back.66440
66441
66442
66443
66444

davec73
11-25-2016, 12:33 AM
6644566446664476644866449

davec73
11-25-2016, 12:35 AM
66450664516645266453

91bird
11-25-2016, 06:19 AM
Looks great, those wheels are killer.

Drew

rzimmerl
11-25-2016, 11:06 AM
What did you use to clean the engine bay? Need to do the same before putting my motor back in.

davec73
11-25-2016, 11:26 AM
What did you use to clean the engine bay? Need to do the same before putting my motor back in.

I used a pressure washer and degreaser that I sell. Then I sanded it down with 320 and painted all the red with automotive color match e4 red and professional grade clear coat. I also cleaned up all the harnesses and insulated the harness and wiring on the driver side, I found the headers melted some of the looms.

davec73
11-28-2016, 11:55 PM
Well update on the motor is not really good but not that bad either. It had vertical scratches in 3 of 6 cylinders but the scratches in #4 were more than .001 so I have decided to use a new block around the already perfect rotating assembly with new rings. The other block will be used at a later date for a 4.2. In other news while I'm fixing the motor I decided to go ahead and install a nice Shiney 2.1 kenne bell big bore.

fastsc92
11-29-2016, 10:11 AM
If you have the ability, I'd recommend machining more backspace into those wheels. I was able to tuck them much better with a 2.375" backspace.

davec73
11-29-2016, 10:49 AM
If you have the ability, I'd recommend machining more backspace into those wheels. I was able to tuck them much better with a 2.375" backspace.

Did you do yours or have them done

fastsc92
11-29-2016, 10:58 AM
Did you do yours or have them done

I machined them. There is enough meat to even tuck them in further and still maintain caliper clearance. If i did it again i'd go 2.5" BS however I didn't want to fixture them up again. Once you bolt them up...the 1.75" BS sticks out a ton. You'll want to tuck it in if you can. I was using cobra brakes so your caliper clearances may vary but I had enough room to go 2.5" BS but machined them @ 2.375"

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?137369-Machining-Wheel-Backspace&p=1098882#post1098882

davec73
11-29-2016, 11:09 AM
I machined them. There is enough meat to even tuck them in further and still maintain caliper clearance. If i did it again i'd go 2.5" BS however I didn't want to fixture them up again. Once you bolt them up...the 1.75" BS sticks out a ton. You'll want to tuck it in if you can. I was using cobra brakes so your caliper clearances may vary but I had enough room to go 2.5" BS but machined them @ 2.375"

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?137369-Machining-Wheel-Backspace&p=1098882#post1098882
How much material would be removed for 2.5?

davec73
11-29-2016, 11:11 AM
I machined them. There is enough meat to even tuck them in further and still maintain caliper clearance. If i did it again i'd go 2.5" BS however I didn't want to fixture them up again. Once you bolt them up...the 1.75" BS sticks out a ton. You'll want to tuck it in if you can. I was using cobra brakes so your caliper clearances may vary but I had enough room to go 2.5" BS but machined them @ 2.375"

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?137369-Machining-Wheel-Backspace&p=1098882#post1098882
BTW what I really need right now is a tubular front k member ]

fastsc92
11-29-2016, 11:24 AM
how much material would be removed for 2.5?

1.75" + .75" = 2.5"
1.75" + .625"= 2.375" :d

davec73
11-29-2016, 11:49 AM
1.75" + .75" = 2.5"
1.75" + .625"= 2.375" :d
So you remove 3/4" wow.

pro street rich
11-29-2016, 04:55 PM
BTW what I really need right now is a tubular front k member ]
they were running a deal last week, ask them and they may just honor that deal. I talked to them and they were more than willing to do something, I guess things are slow everywhere.....Rich

davec73
11-29-2016, 06:54 PM
they were running a deal last week, ask them and they may just honor that deal. I talked to them and they were more than willing to do something, I guess things are slow everywhere.....Rich
Who is they?

nickleman60
11-29-2016, 07:43 PM
Who is they?

I don't know who Rich is referring to but Jegs has this AJE crossmember:

http://www.jegs.com/p/AJE-Suspension/AJE-MN12-Thunderbird-Tubular-Front-K-Member-and-Components/2476415/10002/-1

pro street rich
11-29-2016, 07:54 PM
Who is they?

look them up on the net, you can go right to them to buy a "K" member look up "AJE suspension and you will be happy... they are in IN so that helps you as well. If you can't find the number I will post it..

pro street rich
11-29-2016, 07:59 PM
here is the number for you 812-346-7356 ask for Anthony.. hope this helps you.. they also have other front end stuff if you ask about it.. I have gotten a few "K" members from them and every time they were simple to put in and did work well....Rich

davec73
11-29-2016, 08:29 PM
I don't know who Rich is referring to but Jegs has this AJE crossmember:

http://www.jegs.com/p/AJE-Suspension/AJE-MN12-Thunderbird-Tubular-Front-K-Member-and-Components/2476415/10002/-1

I may have to add that to the winter upgrades for 2016 list for 360 shipped wow!

davec73
11-29-2016, 10:01 PM
look them up on the net, you can go right to them to buy a "K" member look up "AJE suspension and you will be happy... they are in IN so that helps you as well. If you can't find the number I will post it..

Are you able to use stock lcas and the rest of the stock components on these?

pro street rich
11-30-2016, 08:52 AM
they will set you up with whatever you want. you buy from them and it cuts out the middle man. You can reuse the stock stuff or you get the other stuff from them. I go with their stuff and get rid of the stock stuff. This is some of the same stuff all the mustang guys are running so they got to be doing it right.....call them and see....Rich

davec73
11-30-2016, 09:29 AM
they will set you up with whatever you want. you buy from them and it cuts out the middle man. You can reuse the stock stuff or you get the other stuff from them. I go with their stuff and get rid of the stock stuff. This is some of the same stuff all the mustang guys are running so they got to be doing it right.....call them and see....Rich you can not run the stock lcas with the aje you have to run there lower control arms.

fastsc92
11-30-2016, 10:38 AM
you can not run the stock lcas with the aje you have to run there lower control arms.

correct. Once you figure in the LCA's and strut rods that you must buy, along with the motor mounts, you're into it for nearly $900. :cool:

no164ford
11-30-2016, 10:57 AM
I love them wheels!

Let us know what aje says I was going to call them soon about the same thing.

davec73
11-30-2016, 03:03 PM
I love them wheels!

Let us know what aje says I was going to call them soon about the same thing.
Just spoke with Jim at aje and he was the one that did the majority of the R&D on our subframe. It was a little over 500 shipped for the arms and motor mounts. I spoke with Jim and he is sending mine all together even though I ordered it from jegs. He also said that the kinks have been completely worked out of them. I will post pics when I get it in!

fastsc92
11-30-2016, 03:28 PM
Just spoke with Jim at aje and he was the one that did the majority of the R&D on our subframe. It was a little over 500 shipped for the arms and motor mounts. I spoke with Jim and he is sending mine all together even though I ordered it from jegs. He also said that the kinks have been completely worked out of them. I will post pics when I get it in!

cool deal....so $360 + $50x?

davec73
11-30-2016, 04:27 PM
cool deal....so $360 + $50x?

I'm pretty sure he said 870ish shipped for the whole setup to work with the 3.8 before the end of the year.

no164ford
11-30-2016, 04:52 PM
That's not bad. You don't use the strut rod with there lower control arms do you?

davec73
11-30-2016, 05:34 PM
That's not bad. You don't use the strut rod with there lower control arms do you?
No the strut rods are not used. He is even powder coating mine silver to match the rest of the braces etc under the car. He did say it's a little noisier than stock but it's just the nature of it.

no164ford
11-30-2016, 07:25 PM
Sweet that should shave a good bit of weight I would like to also do the struts with different spindles and a light weight disk brake but I don't think my funds will allow this year lol.

davec73
11-30-2016, 08:18 PM
Sweet that should shave a good bit of weight I would like to also do the struts with different spindles and a light weight disk brake but I don't think my funds will allow this year lol.
I'm also removing ac power seat tracks and anything else in the car that isn't necessary. My pigs going an a diet!!

no164ford
11-30-2016, 09:07 PM
I shaved a good bit off with a Flaming River manual steering rack, but it took a good bit of fab work. Also think around 60# in sound deadner ect. I just started to cut out the crash bar in the driver side door looking like there about 18-20 lb per side. All 3 things combined I would guess an easy 140# and a few more HP from having no power steering pump to turn.

I will say I do kinda miss the sound deading the car is louder and hotter in the summer.

davec73
11-30-2016, 09:58 PM
I shaved a good bit off with a Flaming River manual steering rack, but it took a good bit of fab work. Also think around 60# in sound deadner ect. I just started to cut out the crash bar in the driver side door looking like there about 18-20 lb per side. All 3 things combined I would guess an easy 140# and a few more HP from having no power steering pump to turn.


I will say I do kinda miss the sound deading the car is louder and hotter in the summer.

Yeah removing the ac and power seat tracks is about as far as I'm going to go there. Mines a 6 speed manual so it's never going to be the quickest car at the track

neverfastenough
12-01-2016, 08:30 AM
So $900 on a K member but you don't shell out the cash for a properly fitting wheel and tire combo:o

davec73
12-01-2016, 09:03 AM
They will fit just fine the one time a year I use them Corey. It's not like my Drag wheels are the wheels I drive the car around on lol.

no164ford
12-01-2016, 10:17 AM
That's cool I was just letting you know what I have learned while trying to shed so pounds on my SC. The manual seat tracks were a good bit also but I can't rember how much.

pro street rich
12-01-2016, 12:35 PM
Sweet that should shave a good bit of weight I would like to also do the struts with different spindles and a light weight disk brake but I don't think my funds will allow this year lol.

I bit the money tree and picked up the whole front kit the other week. They said it should all be here within the next few days. When it is all here I will post some pic's so you can see what all this stuff looks like. It did come in for under $2000 so now I will have more room under the hood for my next killer engine combo.... look out this one will be super bad...I hope???.....Rich

davec73
12-01-2016, 12:55 PM
That's cool I was just letting you know what I have learned while trying to shed so pounds on my SC. The manual seat tracks were a good bit also but I can't rember how much.
I'm hoping for a pretty big number with the seat tracks sub frame ac and all of the stereo stuff.

no164ford
12-01-2016, 04:15 PM
I bit the money tree and picked up the whole front kit the other week. They said it should all be here within the next few days. When it is all here I will post some pic's so you can see what all this stuff looks like. It did come in for under $2000 so now I will have more room under the hood for my next killer engine combo.... look out this one will be super bad...I hope???.....Rich

Is that under 2k with the disk brakes?

P.S. good luck on your build

pro street rich
12-01-2016, 04:42 PM
Is that under 2k with the disk brakes?

P.S. good luck on your build

I know that it does give me everything for a mustang setup. We will have to see what all comes, as my mind has been on OVERLOAD of late with everything else going on... I will post what all is in this package as soon as it is here.....Rich

davec73
12-01-2016, 05:04 PM
I know that it does give me everything for a mustang setup. We will have to see what all comes, as my mind has been on OVERLOAD of late with everything else going on... I will post what all is in this package as soon as it is here.....Rich
I don't plan on running anything other than a 3.8 but I already have a qa1 coil over suspension up front to work hand in hand with the aje setup. I pulled all the power steering stuff and I'm having a shorter line made for the power steering high pressure side.

pro street rich
12-02-2016, 01:49 PM
here is the number for you 812-346-7356 ask for Anthony.. hope this helps you.. they also have other front end stuff if you ask about it.. I have gotten a few "K" members from them and every time they were simple to put in and did work well....Rich

some how I posted the number for child services ??? don't ask me how I know that but heck I don't even live in that state....Rich the correct number is now in the post...

no164ford
12-02-2016, 10:26 PM
Lol! I'm glad I did not call yet.

pro street rich
12-02-2016, 11:10 PM
Lol! I'm glad I did not call yet.

I called today to get my shipping update and as luck would have it I called during lunch hour and got a recording. I tried twice and then re looked up the number to find I hit a wrong key when I put that up...lol. Oh well my stuff should be here mid week or so they said.....Rich

davec73
12-02-2016, 11:25 PM
I pmd Jim on Thierry Facebook site. As I said before he is the lead R&D guy so he is very knowledgeable.

fastsc92
12-04-2016, 11:47 AM
That's cool I was just letting you know what I have learned while trying to shed so pounds on my SC. The manual seat tracks were a good bit also but I can't rember how much.

What did you use for your manual seat tracks? I'm currently looking for a drivers-side manual track.

davec73
12-04-2016, 12:27 PM
What did you use for your manual seat tracks? I'm currently looking for a drivers-side manual track.
I believe an early 2000s Taurus will work. Hey I just wanted to confirm that you remove 3/4" from the front inner wheel hub?

fastsc92
12-04-2016, 01:03 PM
I believe an early 2000s Taurus will work. Hey I just wanted to confirm that you remove 3/4" from the front inner wheel hub?

Roger that. I actually removed 5/8" but you could remove up to 3/4" per the manuf. recommendation when I spoke with them. The hub itself is very thick, but your limiting factor will be the depth of the counter bore that remains and caliper clearance for your specific application. You want to aim for a depth that will allow you to use an off the shelf shank lugnut, which will obviously be shorter than the ones that they provided you. You also want to include a chamfer on the hub bore such that the included hubcentric ring will still fit properly. Here are some before and after pics. As you can see, the 1.75" backspace will really sit the wheel outside of the fender. Bringing the backspace to 2.375" or even 2.5" will really make things look better. :)

1.75" Backspace:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160323_202649_zpsbfunzsy6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160324_213337_zpsixnencho.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160323_202616_zps5vl8lfzs.jpg


After (2.375"):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/05e4dc75-efc1-46e8-a73b-7243cbf073f7_zpszju5ie5l.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160409_142455_zpsghmtspnz.jpg


If you get creative, you can even stuff a 15 x 10" in the back :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160716_144222_zpstpwubee9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160716_144244_zpsjdsnsrjp.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160716_144258_zpscyew1yee.jpg

no164ford
12-04-2016, 01:19 PM
What did you use for your manual seat tracks? I'm currently looking for a drivers-side manual track.

The one I had actually came from a 97 T-bird lx I looked forever to find it.

davec73
12-04-2016, 01:26 PM
I think I will stick with 5/8 like you how did you get 15x10s under yours? Also what rear brakes are you running stock or cobra?

davec73
12-15-2016, 04:15 PM
Well this is going in saturday!

neverfastenough
12-15-2016, 04:45 PM
Any concern with the strength of the control arms? Is this designed to be a track only item or with pot holes in mind?

davec73
12-15-2016, 04:47 PM
Roger that. I actually removed 5/8" but you could remove up to 3/4" per the manuf. recommendation when I spoke with them. The hub itself is very thick, but your limiting factor will be the depth of the counter bore that remains and caliper clearance for your specific application. You want to aim for a depth that will allow you to use an off the shelf shank lugnut, which will obviously be shorter than the ones that they provided you. You also want to include a chamfer on the hub bore such that the included hubcentric ring will still fit properly. Here are some before and after pics. As you can see, the 1.75" backspace will really sit the wheel outside of the fender. Bringing the backspace to 2.375" or even 2.5" will really make things look better. :)

1.75" Backspace:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160323_202649_zpsbfunzsy6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160324_213337_zpsixnencho.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160323_202616_zps5vl8lfzs.jpg


After (2.375"):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/05e4dc75-efc1-46e8-a73b-7243cbf073f7_zpszju5ie5l.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160409_142455_zpsghmtspnz.jpg


If you get creative, you can even stuff a 15 x 10" in the back :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160716_144222_zpstpwubee9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160716_144244_zpsjdsnsrjp.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/fastsc92/20160716_144258_zpscyew1yee.jpg

I am going with 5/8 like yours. Hey I still never heard from you on the 10" rear question

davec73
12-15-2016, 05:14 PM
Any concern with the strength of the control arms? Is this designed to be a track only item or with pot holes in mind?
No this new setup has no issues, I will send you a pic of the Sideview on the shock mount.

davec73
12-15-2016, 06:10 PM
Here is the new shock mount

XxSlowpokexX
12-15-2016, 10:03 PM
2010 GT 500 wheels, brake vacuum pump and canister, Injector Dynamic injectors, new custom made wiring harness, paint and a dream

no164ford
01-04-2017, 01:22 AM
How did you make out with the k member install?

davec73
01-04-2017, 07:21 AM
How did you make out with the k member install?

I did half of it yesterday and I'm going to try to finish it today but it's been pretty easy so far.

ScrapSC
01-04-2017, 11:53 AM
Interesting K-member... I have been wanting one for some time now as well. Wonder how much the weight difference is between the two.....

davec73
01-04-2017, 12:43 PM
Interesting K-member... I have been wanting one for some time now as well. Wonder how much the weight difference is between the two.....
Aje said around 50 lbs

fastsc92
01-04-2017, 01:40 PM
Aje said around 50 lbs

50 lb might be a stretch. although changing up the control arms and strut rods may contribute significantly. The units that I was making were roughly half the mass of the stock unit, which saved approx. 20lbs. I'd be very surprised if there were another 30lb's to be saved from making the arms tubular

davec73
01-04-2017, 02:19 PM
50 lb might be a stretch. although changing up the control arms and strut rods may contribute significantly. The units that I was making were roughly half the mass of the stock unit, which saved approx. 20lbs. I'd be very surprised if there were another 30lb's to be saved from making the arms tubular

The strut rods ,ctrl arms, bushings are the rest of that weight I'd say I'm just relaying what aje told me. I am also going to run rubber covers on the heim joints and lube them to cut out that issue.

fastsc92
01-04-2017, 02:28 PM
The strut rods ,ctrl arms, bushings are the rest of that weight I'd say I'm just relaying what aje told me. I am also going to run rubber covers on the heim joints and lube them to cut out that issue.

I hear ya. I'd just be surprised if 30lbs comes from the control arms. Anyhow, any chance you weighed all the items before and after your install. It would be great info to have for others.

BLOWN38
01-04-2017, 06:16 PM
One day I'll weigh both. Both are out of my car and not going on anytime soon.:(

davec73
01-04-2017, 06:35 PM
I hear ya. I'd just be surprised if 30lbs comes from the control arms. Anyhow, any chance you weighed all the items before and after your install. It would be great info to have for others.
The subframe, control arms and strut rods weigh right at 80 lbs I forgot to weigh the sub before I put it in but it is much lighter than the one stuff. I got the subframe in but they welded the shock mounts in the wrong place. I will post pictures later. I was able to get the car back on the ground until they can get me new a arms

davec73
01-04-2017, 06:43 PM
Pic of it in the car isn't that great but it fits really well. Everything but the shock mounting locations are perfect.

davec73
01-05-2017, 10:51 AM
Apparently the guy who has been welding the a arms for years is no longer there and the ball joint brackets where welded on the the wrong side of each a arm which threw the shock mounts off on both sides. They are making me a new set shipping them out as soon as possible. They also gave me the size fore the rubber heim joint covers.

ScrapSC
01-05-2017, 11:17 AM
One day I'll weigh both. Both are out of my car and not going on anytime soon.:(

Come on!!! That car needs to be at the shootout!!! :D

ScrapSC
01-05-2017, 11:18 AM
Apparently the guy who has been welding the a arms for years is no longer there and the ball joint brackets where welded on the the wrong side of each a arm which threw the shock mounts off on both sides. They are making me a new set shipping them out as soon as possible. They also gave me the size fore the rubber heim joint covers.

So they screwed up... All in all what is the total cost going through AJE for the Kmember, control arms, etc...???

davec73
01-05-2017, 11:40 AM
360 440 69 = 869 shipped

davec73
01-19-2017, 08:04 PM
Well I got the new a arms in today and they fit great I will update with pictures tomorrow. Motor is going back together in the next week or so and the blower kits is underway as well. Things are moving along well!

David Neibert
01-23-2017, 11:54 AM
Well I got the new a arms in today and they fit great I will update with pictures tomorrow. Motor is going back together in the next week or so and the blower kits is underway as well. Things are moving along well!

Interested to hear if it feels better, worse or same as stock for normal street duty.

David

davec73
01-23-2017, 08:01 PM
Interested to hear if it feels better, worse or same as stock for normal street duty.

David
I kind of jumped the gun on that post a little bit lol. I actually had to pull the front radius arms that control caster and sent them back today. They made them 1" too long so they are going to shorten them and send them back. I will let you know as soon as I get to drive it David.

davec73
02-02-2017, 05:01 PM
Got the new radius arms today and got them installed and they look great! Everything fits very well as far as I can tell and the heim joint dust boots were fairly easy to install as well.

davec73
02-10-2017, 09:50 PM
Since the motor is apart and total seal had to make my rings I decided to send my diamond pistons, Rod and main bearings to calico performance coatings. The piston domes are getting ceramic coating, the bearings and piston skirts are getting moly. I also had quit a few parts chrome plated to go with the new blower. The other thing I decided on was running a larger capacity oil pan from an 03 mustang. At least I can start putting a few things back together now!

davec73
04-04-2017, 09:11 PM
Well i got the motor back in the car yesterday but ran into some more isdued with the sub frame. The build specs are .040 duamond pistons with 351 eagle h beam rods. I had all of the rod and main bearings coated by calico as well as the diamond pistons. I added pac 1222x springs7/16 custom arp rocker studs, crane rocker conversion guide plates and comp 1.73 stud mount rockers. I also upgraded the valve train with Dalkes hi performance lufters and i am still eaiting to add the double roller timung chain. The piston rings had to be custom orderes from total seal for the pistons. While rebuilding the motor i also decided to add one of the new electric water pump housings and pump. Here are a few pics just waiting on the timing set and blower to come back so i can bring it back to life. The motor mounts on the aje sub frame where a little off but jim morrow fixed the issue immediately and has new ones on the way. I also added a few other modifications im doing besides the core stuff.

BLOWN38
04-05-2017, 10:10 AM
Come do mine next.

davec73
04-05-2017, 06:13 PM
Still rolling with getting work done. Installed manual seat teacks today and cut 24 lbs jyst like that!

pro street rich
04-07-2017, 11:03 AM
You posted some place that makes seat sliders, now that post is gone??? any ideasas to why???....Rich

Tim Groth
04-07-2017, 11:56 AM
He has it posted in the wanted forum under seat tracks...here is the link and reply...

Here ya go but you have to have manual seatbelts like mine as well
http://wedgebrackets.com/ford-thunde...-brackets.html

-Tim

davec73
04-07-2017, 12:36 PM
Yeah i posted the track info on the wanted thread. I just posted the pics in both places

pro street rich
04-07-2017, 03:58 PM
I did call them and found out that the seat sliders should work on all of our cars, even thou their site says only 94 to 96...rich

davec73
04-07-2017, 04:39 PM
I did call them and found out that the seat sliders should work on all of our cars, even thou their site says only 94 to 96...rich

It jyst doesnt work with the auto seatbelt garb. Ryan zimmerly runs them in his car

davec73
04-09-2017, 11:37 PM
Well i made some more progress this weekend. I got the second set of motor mounts from aje, painted them and applied sound deadener to them. Once i got them where i wanted them i routed the starter harness and the ground wires. Next was getting the long tube headers installed which has been an awful task in the past but with the new subframe i had it done fairly quickly. Then i went on tho connect the steering shaft. Sunday i finished up the modifications for the tire well sub box. I ordered it from a company in fla but it didnt fit and the airspace for the sub was wrong when i got it. I still have to put the stock carpet on it and do a bit more modification to the enclosure and wire the sub. I also laid out the amplifiers in the stock rack and the 500 w rockford sub amp fits in the stock location. These amps fit in the palm of your hand but are very powerful! I will have them mounted in the rack with one wire running to the sub so i can quick disconnect it at the track. I also ordered a new xenon 5285 rear wing which should freshen the oitside if the car up a bit.

davec73
04-30-2017, 09:00 PM
Well here it is in raw form, still a few things to do but functionally its done.

David Neibert
05-01-2017, 08:12 AM
Zoom zoom ! What throttle body are you using ?

David

davec73
05-01-2017, 09:53 PM
Zoom zoom ! What throttle body are you using ?

David

95mm mp w 4" intake. I am going to get the motor buttoned up this weekend but i still have to get some things coated and welded before it will be ready to run

BLOWN38
05-02-2017, 10:47 AM
Looks sweet!

DrFishbone
05-02-2017, 12:52 PM
Looks beauteous! :cool:

David Neibert
05-02-2017, 03:24 PM
You going to take it up to SCU inc for tuning before the Shootout ?

David

davec73
05-02-2017, 11:48 PM
You going to take it up to SCU inc for tuning before the Shootout ?

David
With our new little girl on the way this month i gave made plans to try to bring matt Haub over. I just dont think i will be able to pull it off with Ava on the way!

davec73
05-02-2017, 11:49 PM
Looks sweet!

Tims will be on its way back to you soon! One thing o forgot is you will have to modify his fuel rail.

BLOWN38
05-03-2017, 01:07 PM
Tims will be on its way back to you soon! One thing o forgot is you will have to modify his fuel rail.

Geez...:rolleyes:

pro street rich
05-04-2017, 01:56 PM
still waiting for my mounts... this has gotten to be a real mess... too bad they are the only place to get K members from right now....oh well gives me more time to work out all the wiring issues that I have to get done....Rich

Tim Groth
05-04-2017, 03:52 PM
Did you end up going with the 03 Mustang oil pan...the powder coated one is that?

-Tim

davec73
05-04-2017, 04:43 PM
still waiting for my mounts... this has gotten to be a real mess... too bad they are the only place to get K members from right now....oh well gives me more time to work out all the wiring issues that I have to get done....Rich

Yeah i felt like an r&d rat

pro street rich
05-05-2017, 10:26 PM
Yeah i felt like an r&d rat

well the mounts got here today so now I can start to put this car back together.. I have had the engine ready to go for a long time already, but now I got the mounts to put it in the car.. I will get to work on it and hope everything is good to go..
Some times these cars really suck to work on.. Now I have to try to remember how this thing goes back together....it sucks getting old....Rich

davec73
05-06-2017, 01:22 AM
well the mounts got here today so now I can start to put this car back together.. I have had the engine ready to go for a long time already, but now I got the mounts to put it in the car.. I will get to work on it and hope everything is good to go..
Some times these cars really suck to work on.. Now I have to try to remember how this thing goes back together....it sucks getting old....Rich

I hope it wirks but beware of the issue i told you about. Also i put sound deadener on my motor mounts to deaden some of the vibration.

davec73
05-06-2017, 11:09 PM
Well its been a big couple days for getting things back to moving on this. Ken sent my bliwer kit and water pump housing back thurs fri and i got the new double roller timing set today and went to work. I got the timing set, cover, warer pump, cam sensor and stalk, crank sensor, balancer, water pump and did a preliminary setup on the valve train. I am going to double check the wear pattern tomorrow and if its ok im going to install as much as i can. I plan to take at leadt 1 day off this week to try to finish alot of it up.

davec73
05-06-2017, 11:10 PM
And heres where it sits

pro street rich
05-07-2017, 06:54 PM
And heres where it sits

You got some great looking stuff going on there.. Keep up the great job... I did drop the engine in today.. so far it looks like the mounts are right this time... I got a long way to go to get to where you are on your ride... good luck and keep it going...Rich

davec73
05-07-2017, 09:31 PM
You got some great looking stuff going on there.. Keep up the great job... I did drop the engine in today.. so far it looks like the mounts are right this time... I got a long way to go to get to where you are on your ride... good luck and keep it going...Rich

Thanks rich im just having a problem with the valve train geometry. The rocker tip is striking the valve on the upper portion of the valve, I have the high performance lifters that are .150 deep for travel and I turn my poly locks 1.25 turns and it bottoms the lifter out. I am thinking the pushrods are too long and hope that I can find out tomorrow. I loned my adjustable pushrod out and havnt received it back yet.

pro street rich
05-09-2017, 01:19 PM
I got around to dropping the engine in and doing some looking at it. The mounts look to be correct this time. if you look at the engine from the right side the engine is sitting with the front side of the head even with the shock tower.. So I think we are in the right place this time.. Now I just got to get the trans in it and make sure, but it does look good for now....Rich

SCrazy
05-09-2017, 01:46 PM
Well its been a big couple days for getting things back to moving on this. Ken sent my bliwer kit and water pump housing back thurs fri and i got the new double roller timing set today and went to work. I got the timing set, cover, warer pump, cam sensor and stalk, crank sensor, balancer, water pump and did a preliminary setup on the valve train. I am going to double check the wear pattern tomorrow and if its ok im going to install as much as i can. I plan to take at leadt 1 day off this week to try to finish alot of it up.

Did you put a degree wheel on that thing?

davec73
05-10-2017, 09:34 AM
Did you put a degree wheel on that thing?

No the double roller timing set has the abilty to run cams that dont have the advance ground into the cam. The cam i run has the 4 ground so i just put the cam in and run it straight up.

davec73
05-10-2017, 09:43 AM
Got quit a bit done, had to stop because i didnt have a tstat gasket.

davec73
05-10-2017, 09:48 AM
Not to thrilled about this! Brand new blower!

pro street rich
05-10-2017, 11:10 AM
WOW with all this chrome going on here you better set up a sun glass stand for all that shine... Does look great, might want to put up a warning sign so no one gets their eyes burned out on a sunny day... Just playing with you...it does look great.. I just don't have that time to make something look that good.. You must be hanging with Ken more these days....Rich

davec73
05-10-2017, 12:07 PM
Problem solved, thank you stl plating!

davec73
05-10-2017, 12:16 PM
WOW with all this chrome going on here you better set up a sun glass stand for all that shine... Does look great, might want to put up a warning sign so no one gets their eyes burned out on a sunny day... Just playing with you...it does look great.. I just don't have that time to make something look that good.. You must be hanging with Ken more these days....Rich
Thanks Rich! The chrome with everything else im doing should balance out. The chrome is more for naintnance as i thought about polishing it all.

David Neibert
05-10-2017, 12:19 PM
Looks great Dave ! Did you end up getting longer pushrods to correct the geometry problem with rockers ?

David

SCrazy
05-10-2017, 12:50 PM
No the double roller timing set has the abilty to run cams that dont have the advance ground into the cam. The cam i run has the 4 ground so i just put the cam in and run it straight up.

My cam also had advance in it and I discovered I could not go straight up. Needed to use an offset key to get it right.

davec73
05-10-2017, 01:47 PM
This is the same cam and rotatin assembly as the last motor, degreeing cams sucks!

davec73
05-10-2017, 01:47 PM
Looks great Dave ! Did you end up getting longer pushrods to correct the geometry problem with rockers ?

David

Yeah i got a set of 7.3s from randy hunerkoch and they were good.

davec73
05-11-2017, 05:09 PM
Got a bunch done last night.
Clutch bled
Long tubes hooked to exhaust
Tstat housing mounted
Raised top smoothed.
Lower intake manifold
Fuel rail modified and mounted
Water pump test fit

BLOWN38
05-11-2017, 07:49 PM
Where is the AC compressor?

davec73
05-11-2017, 08:09 PM
Where is the AC compressor?

The way of the doe doe

nickleman60
05-12-2017, 06:47 AM
Why didn't you upgrade the fuel rails?

davec73
05-12-2017, 07:07 AM
Why didn't you upgrade the fuel rails?

To what? Nothing was available

nickleman60
05-12-2017, 08:48 AM
Dalke makes and includes billet fuel rails when he assembles twin screw blower kits.

davec73
05-12-2017, 10:44 AM
Dalke makes and includes billet fuel rails when he assembles twin screw blower kits.

I don't know he told me they weren't ready. I doubt I'd have room with this blower anyway.

nickleman60
05-12-2017, 11:06 AM
I don't know he told me they weren't ready. I doubt I'd have room with this blower anyway.

Is your blower bigger than a 2.3 Whipple?

davec73
05-12-2017, 01:57 PM
Is your blower bigger than a 2.3 Whipple?

I don't know if it is or not, I doubt it. I was told the billet fuel rails went available.

rzimmerl
05-12-2017, 02:13 PM
I think the 2.1KB is bigger width wise then the 2.3 whipple. The -6 rails I have barely fit. They are resting against the case of the blower and had to make tabs for them that way. Honestly not sure I even needed them as the individually fed stock rails were still OK I just ran out of pump.

rzimmerl
05-12-2017, 02:16 PM
Dave, take the tie loop off the front of those rails. Put a Y block inside the passenger front fender well and run -6 feeds to each rail individually, then just put threaded cap on the stock feed connection. With the stock loop system you run the chance of not feeding all cylinders evenly.

kenewagner
05-12-2017, 02:22 PM
I don't know if it is or not, I doubt it. I was told the billet fuel rails went available.

You might give DD a call. I sold him the step drill bit for making the correct hole for the injectors and I thought he was making billeted rails. Here are my rails when I first installed them. I have 1/2 SS fuel lines running from the pump to them.

Ken67087

davec73
05-12-2017, 06:33 PM
I have officially ran out of the things I need to go further for now. The water pump pulley and fittings should be here in a day or two. The snout brace is at the chrome shop and the inlet enumerated is being powder coated. I discovered that the aje makes the motor sit higher yet again because I had to clearance quit a bit to get the return plenum to fit. I definitely have to Waite and weld the v and flange on so the intercooler alignment is correct. I'm not really concerned with the fuel rails as its already made 470 hp and I've never had fueling issues. I did call Dalke and ask about fuel rails and he told me he didn't have them. I would like to have some but I can't waive a magic wand and make them appear or as all of you know I would have them. I got the heater hose made but still waiting on a few things to complete that like the nipple for the intake that's being welded and the fittings for the pump. I also have to Waite until the snout brace is done so I can plumb it as the line goes through the brace. I'm taking one day at a time trying to keep moving forward!

davec73
05-13-2017, 09:36 PM
Well just when i think im getting somwhere this aje comes creeping back up to bite me in the rear again. I always thought the motor looked like it sat high in the front with the new mounts. My suspisions were confirmed when i attempted to put the return plenum on friday. It wouldnt clear the wiper motor housing so i figured id clearance it a little. Alittle became alot before i knew it but i did get it to fit. Then i started thinking about the pinion angle intercooler pipes etc etc and came to the decision to ask around and get a bubble level measurement off of the intake. Then i went out pulled the motor mount bolts and dropped the motor down as far as i could. Its still not liw enough. Time to call aje and send crap back yet again...... :mad:

XR7 Dave
05-14-2017, 07:52 AM
I don't think you're going to like those solid motor mounts. But I guess you don't have much choice....

davec73
05-14-2017, 08:44 AM
I don't think you're going to like those solid motor mounts. But I guess you don't have much choice....

Yeah i dont think so either but id like them alot more if they fit correctly lol.

pro street rich
05-14-2017, 01:18 PM
first off it looks like the mounts are two inches too high.:eek: then to add to the mess the mount for the rack is also higher.:mad: so even if we drop the mount tower down the rack will then hit the pan... :confused:AJE will have to get their act together or this is going to turn into one big pile of crap... I checked all my stuff against another mount from them and came up with this info.. I got three mounts from them over the years so I got something to go off of.:)I even went out and looked at my big block car that is here and the spacing came out the same...:confused: These new "K" members are off and I can't wait to hear what they have to say this time.. This car just got pushed back at least one if not two months from this last set back... I feel for you as well so now lets see what they tell us.....Rich

DrFishbone
05-15-2017, 12:52 PM
Geez...nothing but trouble from AJE it sounds like....

Aren't there finished pieces in other's cars? Did they change something? Maybe they're made by someone else....I haven't kept up... :o

davec73
05-15-2017, 01:12 PM
Geez...nothing but trouble from AJE it sounds like....

Aren't there finished pieces in other's cars? Did they change something? Maybe they're made by someone else....I haven't kept up... :o

I talked to James Morrow. He is very good but it discouraged me a bit when Rich called him and he lied to him and told him he hadnt had anyone else call about problems. Its made me very leary at best.

neverfastenough
05-15-2017, 01:43 PM
I think you guys are gonna have to fixture the motors where you want them, and then build your own mounts for the AJE. Its time and fab you have to do, but at some point you'll have to cut your losses

davec73
05-15-2017, 02:52 PM
I think you guys are gonna have to fixture the motors where you want them, and then build your own mounts for the AJE. Its time and fab you have to do, but at some point you'll have to cut your losses

Yeah im kind of seeing that writing on the wall Corey. I am still waiting to hear back from them. It seems like they are dodging me at this pount

pro street rich
05-15-2017, 03:38 PM
This whole mess has got me so mad that it is time to make something happen.. We all got too much money and time in these cars to have to deal with this kind of crap. I need to get not only the engine down but the steering rack is also getting in the way now.. The guy at aje says there is no way that the mounts could have moved.. so then I tell him that I have more than one of his "K" members and YES there is a big difference in them.. He then changes his tune to maybe something might have moved but he does not think so... This is going to become a great big mess and it will not end well for any of us.. I think that when all is said and done there will not be a person making "K" members for our cars... Maybe in one respect that would be a good thing.. as these are worthless the way he is now building them....Anyone want to look at this mess feel free to stop by....Rich

fastsc92
05-15-2017, 05:02 PM
This whole mess has got me so mad that it is time to make something happen.. We all got too much money and time in these cars to have to deal with this kind of crap. I need to get not only the engine down but the steering rack is also getting in the way now.. The guy at aje says there is no way that the mounts could have moved.. so then I tell him that I have more than one of his "K" members and YES there is a big difference in them.. He then changes his tune to maybe something might have moved but he does not think so... This is going to become a great big mess and it will not end well for any of us.. I think that when all is said and done there will not be a person making "K" members for our cars... Maybe in one respect that would be a good thing.. as these are worthless the way he is now building them....Anyone want to look at this mess feel free to stop by....Rich

Hang-in there guys...A true drop-in solution is on its way.

davec73
05-15-2017, 05:21 PM
Hang-in there guys...A true drop-in solution is on its way.

Lol ive been hanging in there for a ling time. Aje saw my messages and have yet to reply i am so pissed off im afraid to call anyone. The issue isnt that there is a problem its how its been dealt with. I jyst looked at my facebook messenger and ge saw my messages yet didnt reply? These guys are selling a product out of Jegs and summit that should be ready to go because they say it is. The other thing is they never mention anywhere in the literature that you cant run your stock aarms etc with it. They dont even sell the aarms as far as i know just the subframe which has obviously been jigged wrong. I didnt have time to waite for you to finish yours or id have bought one and i have no doubt it would have been right.

fastsc92
05-15-2017, 05:57 PM
The repeated errors in these frames really shows their lack of competence in delivering a robust product...or one that even fits as advertised. For the $1300 price tag, you'd expect much more. The fabrication quality seems to be lacking as well.

Good luck, keep us updated. Love reading about your project.

davec73
05-15-2017, 06:29 PM
The repeated errors in these frames really shows their lack of competence in delivering a robust product...or one that even fits as advertised. For the $1300 price tag, you'd expect much more. The fabrication quality seems to be lacking as well.

Good luck, keep us updated. Love reading about your project.
Its terrible but i only spent around 850 shipped. I have felt like an r&d rat the entire time. Mike siska went through this with them years ago. I jyst want what i paid for and i think thats achieveable from here but wow! I want the motor sitting as low as possible with the polly mounts whats the clisest you would get the pan to the steering rack?

pro street rich
05-15-2017, 10:15 PM
Its terrible but i only spent around 850 shipped. I have felt like an r&d rat the entire time. Mike siska went through this with them years ago. I jyst want what i paid for and i think thats achieveable from here but wow! I want the motor sitting as low as possible with the polly mounts whats the clisest you would get the pan to the steering rack?

Dave the closest I would want it is 1/2 " anything less you are asking for a rub thru... Just my thinking....Rich

davec73
05-15-2017, 11:49 PM
Dave the closest I would want it is 1/2 " anything less you are asking for a rub thru... Just my thinking....Rich

Finally heard back from them 1/4" clearance is fine with the poly mounts. They are going to get ahold of me tomorrow.

BLOWN38
05-16-2017, 09:28 AM
Siska bought a new one a couple years ago now. And I don't think he had any problems. Maybe he will see this and chime in.

davec73
05-16-2017, 10:07 AM
Siska bought a new one a couple years ago now. And I don't think he had any problems. Maybe he will see this and chime in.

Jim finally got back to me last night they have had somine elae checkung the message traffic because he has been on another project. I am going to try and work with them to get the motor as low as possible and straight. Hopefully we canget the mounts right and i can move forward as quickly as possible.

davec73
05-16-2017, 06:03 PM
Well git to talk to aje and it seems as though they need information. Apparently there old subframes used stock mounts and the new ones dont ir thats what i was told. What are the dufferences un the early and lat mitor mounts? Are there differences in the subframe as well? So i git a little time to look at my mounts and correct the mounting issue with mine the best way i knew how. I took a peice of 1/4" steel with tape around it to protect the pan and rack, jacked the motor up and remived the mounts. From that point i centered the motor as good as i could and put the driver side mount back in. After using two reference points i got the center if the poly mount hole in its new location. On the other side i measured the point where the mount set inward to the outside and was lucky that if i mived the mount up 1.25" (to the top of the mount) the holes line upon the passenger side. I took them to a local machinist to midify he will have them dine tomorrow. Question is should i share all of this info with AJE or not.........

fastsc92
05-16-2017, 06:23 PM
Yes, there are differences between the 89-92 and 93+ subframes and motor mounts. They are subtle, but they will prevent using common parts between the years. The jig for my units takes these variations into account and can be constructed for either variant. It appears that your situation is "off" more than the differences between the years. AJE early style subframes used more of the "stock" style motor mount mounting arrangement, whereas the new style seems to use their "universal" fitup.

These guys certainly aren't impressing the rest of us.... I'd do whatever it takes to get the parts to fit and cut your losses with them.

pro street rich
05-16-2017, 08:30 PM
I am going to pull the engine tomorrow and drop in a bare block and a stock oil pan to see what I have to do to get this ~~~ worked out. This is total crap that I have to go thru all this extra work to make my junk fit.. Then I will take some pic's and send them to aje for his answer.. I am also going to keep a total record of all the time I have to waste on getting this to work.. Boy I wish there was another place we could get this from. Oh well lets see what it takes and then go from there.... :(:(
If ANYONE is thinking of getting one of these I got to tell you to hold off till this mess gets fixed..:confused: feel free to ask anything you want about this crap they are selling.....Rich:confused:

pro street rich
05-16-2017, 11:50 PM
well I got home and got to work pulling my engine back out of the car. this was not how I wanted to spend my night... Then I got down a bare block and a stock oil pan and set them in the engine bay. here is what I found... there is 2 1/2 " under the pan before it hits the rack. That is the amount that Dave has been fighting over. THese mounts are just too damn tall by 2 1/4" I also looked at how the engine block sits in the car and saw that it is a bit forward on the drivers side than the other by 3/8" this is taking a ruler off the front of the car. now before anyone says it, no this car has NEVER been hit. If you just look at the engine block sitting there all by itself you can see that it is sitting a bit off. This is not a real big deal but again it is something that is wrong.. In the morning I will get a look at another car with his "K" member in it to see if the mounting for the rack is also messed up.. only time will tell what I will find there....Rich

davec73
05-17-2017, 05:24 AM
well I got home and got to work pulling my engine back out of the car. this was not how I wanted to spend my night... Then I got down a bare block and a stock oil pan and set them in the engine bay. here is what I found... there is 2 1/2 " under the pan before it hits the rack. That is the amount that Dave has been fighting over. THese mounts are just too damn tall by 2 1/4" I also looked at how the engine block sits in the car and saw that it is a bit forward on the drivers side than the other by 3/8" this is taking a ruler off the front of the car. now before anyone says it, no this car has NEVER been hit. If you just look at the engine block sitting there all by itself you can see that it is sitting a bit off. This is not a real big deal but again it is something that is wrong.. In the morning I will get a look at another car with his "K" member in it to see if the mounting for the rack is also messed up.. only time will tell what I will find there....Rich

This wasnt really in my plans either but im glad i just about have it figured out. If you use the bigger pan you will have to have custom mounts anyway but at least this way you can get the pan as low as possible without having to worry about movement. The center of my mounts was off as well and i had them widen the gap for the front and back plate so it would rest center then i just put washers inside to fill the gaps between the two mounts. I also tried a trick that seems to work very well with solid motor mounts. I put dynamat sound deadner between the mounts and the blick so we will see. I will have the modified mounts back today.

fastsc92
05-17-2017, 09:38 AM
........... feel free to ask anything you want about this crap they are selling.....Rich:confused:


Interested to hear about how the strut kit worked out. You guys have been having a lot of issues with the frame that I question the geometry and overall construction of the strut system. I was planning to buy this from them just to ease my fabrication and drop a lot of weight.

davec73
05-17-2017, 10:04 AM
Interested to hear about how the strut kit worked out. You guys have been having a lot of issues with the frame that I question the geometry and overall construction of the strut system. I was planning to buy this from them just to ease my fabrication and drop a lot of weight.

I am running the standard aarm setup that goes with stock shocks (they arnt struts). I have qa1 coil overs and stick spindles made for the thunderbird.

XR7 Dave
05-17-2017, 11:00 AM
You guys are trying to put race car parts on a street car, so you have to expect that you will have to make things fit. Keep in mind that you guys are also going to be responsible for driveline angles, etc. Hood clearance or firewall clearance is minor compared to driveline angles, suspension geometry, etc. These are things that are absolutely part of the course when building a race car, but not often thought about when slapping together a street car.

In the end I probably would not recommend these type of parts for someone thinking to mod their street car. Jay's drop in K-member made working on my car 1000% easier, but didn't drop much weight because it uses all the stock suspension components in their stock locations. I specifically chose that route because it is important to me to maintain as much stock geometry as possible. I'd rather add 10-20hp than lose 10-20lbs. I'm pretty sure I'll still be able to autocross or open track my car if I want to. You guys - eh, not so confident about that... ;)

davec73
05-17-2017, 11:36 AM
You guys are trying to put race car parts on a street car, so you have to expect that you will have to make things fit. Keep in mind that you guys are also going to be responsible for driveline angles, etc. Hood clearance or firewall clearance is minor compared to driveline angles, suspension geometry, etc. These are things that are absolutely part of the course when building a race car, but not often thought about when slapping together a street car.

In the end I probably would not recommend these type of parts for someone thinking to mod their street car. Jay's drop in K-member made working on my car 1000% easier, but didn't drop much weight because it uses all the stock suspension components in their stock locations. I specifically chose that route because it is important to me to maintain as much stock geometry as possible. I'd rather add 10-20hp than lose 10-20lbs. I'm pretty sure I'll still be able to autocross or open track my car if I want to. You guys - eh, not so confident about that... ;)

Well Dave if thats the case why isnt the other subframe available.... I dont have a lifetime to waite on whats going to be done i have to use whats out there. As far as my car being useable your wrong.

Tim Groth
05-17-2017, 11:46 AM
IMHO the main issue is the AJE page doesn't suggest the part is for "off road use only" or a complete ~~~ to install. They sell it with the following statements.

The AJE Thunderbird Tubular Front K-Member and Components are easy to bolt in and are designed to reduce weight, increase strength, and improve geometry. The universal engine mount system allows you to perform engine swaps previously unheard of in the 1989-1997 Ford Thunderbird MN12 platform. Other highlights include greater header and oil pan clearances for easier installation and maintenance. You can expect improved bump steer, anti-dive, and Ackerman angles for maximum performance. The optional upgraded suspension and steering components allow further improvements that help reduce weight and improve drivability. The K-member also features black powder coating for great looks and long lasting durability.

That's the main issue - I don't believe that Rich or Dave would have spent 1K (or more) if they knew the problems they'd run into.

-Tim

davec73
05-17-2017, 11:57 AM
IMHO the main issue is the AJE page doesn't suggest the part is for "off road use only" or a complete ~~~ to install. They sell it with the following statements.

The AJE Thunderbird Tubular Front K-Member and Components are easy to bolt in and are designed to reduce weight, increase strength, and improve geometry. The universal engine mount system allows you to perform engine swaps previously unheard of in the 1989-1997 Ford Thunderbird MN12 platform. Other highlights include greater header and oil pan clearances for easier installation and maintenance. You can expect improved bump steer, anti-dive, and Ackerman angles for maximum performance. The optional upgraded suspension and steering components allow further improvements that help reduce weight and improve drivability. The K-member also features black powder coating for great looks and long lasting durability.

That's the main issue - I don't believe that Rich or Dave would have spent 1K (or more) if they knew the problems they'd run into.

-Tim
Yes you are correct. I saw a subframe that Rich said he had used with success on other cars for 360 shipped on jegs so like all the other stuff ive done I dove head first and ended up having to buy the suspension components. At this point i am obligated to make it work.

neverfastenough
05-17-2017, 12:58 PM
Well Dave if thats the case why isnt the other subframe available.... I dont have a lifetime to waite on whats going to be done i have to use whats out there. As far as my car being useable your wrong.

Technically you didn't need an aftermarket k member at all so you didn't just have to use what was out there. You could have just stayed stock....

I understand your want for cool parts and a custom car, that shouldn't mean settling poor quality components. There's not a single thread on this site that shows an aje dropping in and working properly with no added effort. So you really must have wanted to suffer on this one:confused:

ScrapSC
05-17-2017, 01:00 PM
Interested to hear about how the strut kit worked out. You guys have been having a lot of issues with the frame that I question the geometry and overall construction of the strut system. I was planning to buy this from them just to ease my fabrication and drop a lot of weight.

Being able to use the mustang spindles and make use of the shocks that Dave and Rich are using would be great... I have been looking at doing this K-member as well but figured I would wait until the bugs get worked out of some of the fitment.

fastsc92
05-17-2017, 01:10 PM
Being able to use the mustang spindles and make use of the shocks that Dave and Rich are using would be great... I have been looking at doing this K-member as well but figured I would wait until the bugs get worked out of some of the fitment.

Rich would need to correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can use their strut kit without needing their subframe and control arms. In my case, that would be preferred as I can use my tubular k and run stock-style arms while being able to ditch the heavy spindles. Kinda the best of both worlds.

pro street rich
05-17-2017, 01:43 PM
I got my first "K" from them back in like 2004. I used all the stock other parts and it worked out good. The next one I did I had them drop the engine mounts a couple of inches to get a big block in under the STOCK hood.. That build went fine as well after just a bit of fixing. the next one was simple and without a hitch... now far forward, I wanted to get the stock stuff all gone on this car so I went with the coil overs, and mustang spindles so I can run some monster brakes on it.. I did this because I have never been happy with the brakes on my one big block bird..
Now none of this has been an issue until this last order.. First off it took for ever to get anything from them. then when it did show up it was a snap to put everything in the car. Now the bad.....When I went to set the engine into the car things started to not line up.. First red flag was that the engine was sitting more to the pass side of the car than stock... Then I saw that the engine was not sitting straight in the car, it was on an angle with the back of the block more to the drivers side.. So we ordered new mounts, waited and waited for them to come.. They did and again put the engine back in the car... now it sits more where it belongs from front to back and side to side, BUT now there is over 2 1/2" under the oil pan and the steering rack is higher in the mounting than any other setup that I got??
So not to just go on with this I start to look harder at things... Now after two sets of engine mounts and a lot of time wasted I am sitting where I am with a mess to fix.. Can I fix it....SURE... Do I want to fix it...not without getting paid...
One more thing to clear... this setup cost over $2000 to get without the wildwood brakes in the mix... that is just what AJE got from me..
Now you asked if you could use this stuff with the stock stuff as well. I think so as every part has been a bolt on part so far...
The summing up of this mess is that over the years I have to think that the mounting hardware they are using has moved of been changed. they have told me that not every one of these mounts are the same as things do change.. They keep saying that they are going to get it worked out??? I have been working on this mess for way too long already so now I am thinking that I will have to do some fabbing myself to get this to work..
Now for those who said that this is for race cars only I say BULL S@@@.. I have been running one or more of their setups for over ten years and it has still been without an issue... You just got to get it all to work with everything else...

The big question "would I do it all over again" I would have to say "YES" if they get this mess worked out... The added room in the engine bay is well worth this as well as the weight that you lose.. BUT FIRST they got to get this worked out....
I hope this helps the rest of you and if I missed some ones question please ask me again....Rich

pro street rich
05-17-2017, 03:48 PM
Well I have spent most of today with this car. here is what I got out of it.. 1] the engine is 2 1/2 " taller than stock.:eek: 2] the last set of mounts I got put the engine 1" to the pass side of the car. that is with you sliding it all the way over in the slots..:rolleyes: 3] the set of mounts I got before would move the engine 1" forward which is no good. :(4]the engine is still a bit off from front to back, but that is something we can live with.
I did call them and they said when they get another project done they will relook at our issues.. so there you have it... reminds me of the govt.... "hurry up and wait" oh well lets see what they find.....Rich:mad:

davec73
05-17-2017, 03:53 PM
Technically you didn't need an aftermarket k member at all so you didn't just have to use what was out there. You could have just stayed stock....

I understand your want for cool parts and a custom car, that shouldn't mean settling poor quality components. There's not a single thread on this site that shows an aje dropping in and working properly with no added effort. So you really must have wanted to suffer on this one:confused:


I ordered the subframe after seeing posts of a few of them. Most if them are in engine swap cars and i realize that. I also understand that doing a little wirk to get it to fit right is necessary, i did put a t56 in my car so obviously i can get the job done if i am set in the right direction. I am not afraid to push the edge and try things people say cant be done, or why would you do that? Everything i do to my car is to improve the platfirm and push it to places it has not been. To kick vendors that make parts for our cars because something has gone wrong in the nuts because everything isnt right is a dis service to the entire mn 12 platform. So that being said i am working with AJE to make sure this is right for everyone that wants to buy one. If my car has to go back to there shop to be right, it will and thats why I told Dave if he thought it wasnt going to work that he was wrong. I am not taking this lightly it will be done right and when its donethe frame will fit right. As far as them making one to work with stock suspension components i doubt that will happen but thats not up to me.

davec73
05-17-2017, 04:03 PM
Well I have spent most of today with this car. here is what I got out of it.. 1] the engine is 2 1/2 " taller than stock.:eek: 2] the last set of mounts I got put the engine 1" to the pass side of the car. that is with you sliding it all the way over in the slots..:rolleyes: 3] the set of mounts I got before would move the engine 1" forward which is no good. :(4]the engine is still a bit off from front to back, but that is something we can live with.
I did call them and they said when they get another project done they will relook at our issues.. so there you have it... reminds me of the govt.... "hurry up and wait" oh well lets see what they find.....Rich:mad:

Rich i understand you being upset but they are building another complete sub frame to help figure out the error? He also has a 3.8 motor and pan but i need to try to help him find a set of early and late model mounts. This is all i can ask for is they figure out the problem and make it right. Sure its a pain but we are here so lets do what we have to and get it fixed right.

pro street rich
05-17-2017, 05:31 PM
I have taken a ton of pic's and had a tape measure all over this car to help make this work. I even pulled the engine and dropped a bare block with the stock pan on it to make the right measurements for him.. I got too much time and money in this to just walk away.. I got to make it work some how.. I talked to him this morning and sent him a bunch of stuff to help, but now they have to help to make this all go better.. I don't mind being the guinea pig for someone if they would just return the phone calls and try to keep us in the loop....Rich

davec73
05-17-2017, 05:50 PM
Had the motor nounts out at the machine shop yesterday while i was home today mached them up and the driver side is spot onpassenger side needs bored out a but more and welded back shut on the bottom side. This will put my motor 1/4" from the steering rack in front. Then i will need to check the drive line angle to ensure its within tolerance. Then i am going to send the measurements to AJE so they can be confirmed.

XR7 Dave
05-17-2017, 11:04 PM
Dave, I've seen and driven quite a few AJE K-member cars. IMO they are a drag race component, not a bolt in street mod type thing. Handling on every single one I had anything to do with was poor at best. Yes, this includes Rich's car. Yes, it drives. Yes it works. No, it does not inspire confidence. I would not road race that car. Ever. There are lots of MN12 owners out there who will sing a similar song about their experience with the AJE.

But that's not to take away from the troubles you guys are having or how AJE is or is not working to resolve them for you. I think everyone is doing the best they can. IMO, when you really can't ask someone if they bought and installed one recently (apparently no one has), then you are dealing with a very custom, race car type thing. Yes, this is a suspension component that is 100% fabricated. To me that sends up all sorts of red flags. Buyer beware!! Doesn't mean the product isn't good, it just means the the USER is probably going to have to take a lot of responsibility for the end result. To me this means instead of posting "OMG it doesn't fit!!", one might post up - "Hey guys this is what I did so heads up!" It's not so much what you say, it's how you say it. Ie. the "I'm a vicitim!!" attitude vs. "I got ~~~~ done." attitude. Maybe that's not how you feel about it, but that sure as hell is how it comes across.

I get it, really I do.

I guess I get a bit torqued when Rich says "Someone's going to have to pay for this!" when I can't even begin to count all the hours I put into his motor (and others) that I didn't get paid for (and didn't ask to get paid for either) because no one anticipated all the problems we'd run into. I sucked it up and got it done (eventually). You don't hear me complaining.

But hey, after all that I really don't have an iron in this one so I'm just making noise. I'm so far pretty happy with Jay's work and I know you guys didn't have that option so I'm a lucky one.

ricardoa1
05-17-2017, 11:37 PM
My experience is similar to what Dalke is sayi g. Mind you I have one Jays original prototypes and revisions were made, on mine I ran out of adjustability on the strut bar so the car became darty at high speeds. Its more responsive on the input but after 100 its not confidence building so at high speeds highway turns steering is too sensitive. I love the access, cool factor amd weight reduction. But I lost the original feel of the way the car drove at high speeds on the interstate. So I can only imagine what the AJE ones feel like after changing the entire geometry. Long road trips are what makes these cars feel great.

davec73
05-18-2017, 12:24 AM
Dave, I've seen and driven quite a few AJE K-member cars. IMO they are a drag race component, not a bolt in street mod type thing. Handling on every single one I had anything to do with was poor at best. Yes, this includes Rich's car. Yes, it drives. Yes it works. No, it does not inspire confidence. I would not road race that car. Ever. There are lots of MN12 owners out there who will sing a similar song about their experience with the AJE.

But that's not to take away from the troubles you guys are having or how AJE is or is not working to resolve them for you. I think everyone is doing the best they can. IMO, when you really can't ask someone if they bought and installed one recently (apparently no one has), then you are dealing with a very custom, race car type thing. Yes, this is a suspension component that is 100% fabricated. To me that sends up all sorts of red flags. Buyer beware!! Doesn't mean the product isn't good, it just means the the USER is probably going to have to take a lot of responsibility for the end result. To me this means instead of posting "OMG it doesn't fit!!", one might post up - "Hey guys this is what I did so heads up!" It's not so much what you say, it's how you say it. Ie. the "I'm a vicitim!!" attitude vs. "I got ~~~~ done." attitude. Maybe that's not how you feel about it, but that sure as hell is how it comes across.

I get it, really I do.

I guess I get a bit torqued when Rich says "Someone's going to have to pay for this!" when I can't even begin to count all the hours I put into his motor (and others) that I didn't get paid for (and didn't ask to get paid for either) because no one anticipated all the problems we'd run into. I sucked it up and got it done (eventually). You don't hear me complaining.

But hey, after all that I really don't have an iron in this one so I'm just making noise. I'm so far pretty happy with Jay's work and I know you guys didn't have that option so I'm a lucky one.

I understand Dave, thats why i wanted to make it clear that I am working with James Morrow of AJE to fix the issues that are mainly attributed to the subtle changes between years of the cars. I know I alone am the one who took the plunge in this one but only after talking to Jim personally about the past deficiencies like the A Arm shock mounting point being week, the noise from the hiem joints etc. Fwiw i got my motor mounts fixed today and test fit tonight. I will be painting and mounting them tomorrow after i get all the measurements for AJE. I like a good deal just as much as the next guy but i care about the future of these cars as much as anyone does so having manufacturers like AJE make cool stuff for our cars is nice. We are a very small % of what goes on for them so the fact that they are going to the trouble to make a subframe to test fit the different types of motor mounts that our cars use is cool. I am going to do my part to ensure this happens to make sure an sc owner uf he so chooses can buy one of these for an early or late car and have it work out of the box. If it means taking my car to north vernon Indiana to have it done thats what i would do.

davec73
05-18-2017, 12:49 AM
My experience is similar to what Dalke is sayi g. Mind you I have one Jays original prototypes and revisions were made, on mine I ran out of adjustability on the strut bar so the car became darty at high speeds. Its more responsive on the input but after 100 its not confidence building so at high speeds highway turns steering is too sensitive. I love the access, cool factor amd weight reduction. But I lost the original feel of the way the car drove at high speeds on the interstate. So I can only imagine what the AJE ones feel like after changing the entire geometry. Long road trips are what makes these cars feel great.

I am going to have mine aligned to factory specifications there is quit a bit of adjystability in the newer ones and many of the flaws have been addressed the only one that has nit is the motor mount lication.

ricardoa1
05-18-2017, 08:33 AM
I hope it works out, you are commited now.

davec73
05-18-2017, 11:06 AM
Mounts are fexed and ready to go back in. I am waiting to hear back from aje to see if he wants me to send them to him or if dimensions of the modified mounts are ok. From there after i get the motor in i have to check the driveline angle and possibly shim the tranny up a bit to get it perfect. So the last thing im waiting on is the snout brace and inlet plenum to come back from coating, then i can mount the top and have the vband flange welded on. At that point it can be coated then it will be down to the small details!

davec73
05-18-2017, 11:18 AM
I hope it works out, you are commited now.

Yeah theres no hoping it will, youve got to want it.

davec73
05-18-2017, 01:55 PM
Its not all chrome lol

Ira R.
05-18-2017, 04:48 PM
Nice! Where did you get those things done?

davec73
05-18-2017, 04:54 PM
Engine angle is 2.2 Back to front and 1 left to righ i think im in good shape

davec73
05-18-2017, 04:57 PM
Nice! Where did you get those things done?

www.uniquehydrographics.com

davec73
05-19-2017, 01:30 AM
Well got a few more things done tonight, the hood pins needed a steel reinforcement ring aront the outside of the quicklatch hood pins so i had those nade and had the hood pins dine in carbon fiber. I also had the door sills paint filled a few months ago and Eric from unique hydrographics finished them off with 3 coats of clear. I also had the battery box top and oil catch can done in carbon fiber as well. The plan is to prime and paint the motor mounts tomorrow and start final assembly. I have to see how well the 12 AN lines are going to work going to the catch can (may have to do some more modifications). Waiting on the inlet enum and snout brace to come back and those are the last pieces to the puzzle.

Jacob_Royer
05-19-2017, 03:03 AM
Well this is enough for me to scratch this off the list of things I want for my car. Nothing like a
mustang subframe that you bolt in and drivabilty does not suffer.




Dave, I've seen and driven quite a few AJE K-member cars. IMO they are a drag race component, not a bolt in street mod type thing. Handling on every single one I had anything to do with was poor at best. Yes, this includes Rich's car. Yes, it drives. Yes it works. No, it does not inspire confidence. I would not road race that car. Ever. There are lots of MN12 owners out there who will sing a similar song about their experience with the AJE.

But that's not to take away from the troubles you guys are having or how AJE is or is not working to resolve them for you. I think everyone is doing the best they can. IMO, when you really can't ask someone if they bought and installed one recently (apparently no one has), then you are dealing with a very custom, race car type thing. Yes, this is a suspension component that is 100% fabricated. To me that sends up all sorts of red flags. Buyer beware!! Doesn't mean the product isn't good, it just means the the USER is probably going to have to take a lot of responsibility for the end result. To me this means instead of posting "OMG it doesn't fit!!", one might post up - "Hey guys this is what I did so heads up!" It's not so much what you say, it's how you say it. Ie. the "I'm a vicitim!!" attitude vs. "I got ~~~~ done." attitude. Maybe that's not how you feel about it, but that sure as hell is how it comes across.

I get it, really I do.

I guess I get a bit torqued when Rich says "Someone's going to have to pay for this!" when I can't even begin to count all the hours I put into his motor (and others) that I didn't get paid for (and didn't ask to get paid for either) because no one anticipated all the problems we'd run into. I sucked it up and got it done (eventually). You don't hear me complaining.

But hey, after all that I really don't have an iron in this one so I'm just making noise. I'm so far pretty happy with Jay's work and I know you guys didn't have that option so I'm a lucky one.

davec73
05-19-2017, 10:25 AM
Well this is enough for me to scratch this off the list of things I want for my car. Nothing like a
mustang subframe that you bolt in and drivabilty does not suffer.


Everything bieng compared here is 10 + years old and has flaws but at this point i cant recommend that anyone else buy one at all unless you are doing a coyote swap like william younce. I have bent over backwards to help them figure it out and they have been less than cooperative. They say they are working on it but idk how you can work on this problem correctly without a full car to put it in. I have the geometry set up within range and have offered to give them the measurements for my mounts but he never answered? So long story short i would not recommend that anyone buy this product from them unless you are ready to pay full retail for a product that you have to fabricate to fit your vehicle. If i had known this going into it i would never have wasted my time.

davec73
05-19-2017, 09:55 PM
One of the other modifications i decided to do this year was the billet housing and mezier water pump. I bought the pump with a modular ford pulley and it turns iut you need a 312s 5.0 pulley made for an early 5.0 mustang. I got the pulley friday and it came in ugly gray anodize. Its probably the ugluest color ive ever seen anything anodized lol. I taped it iff sprayed it with..... And removed the anodizing. Then polished the front of the pulley to blend in with the rest. I primed and painted the motor mounts but i never heard from aje. They never inquired about the mount measurement so they are going back in tomorrow.

davec73
05-20-2017, 08:13 PM
Well got a few more things done today. The motor mounts are back in, accesory brackets bolted back up, water pump is mounted and everything lines up great! I plan to wire the water pump in and mount the msd two step later this evening.

davec73
05-25-2017, 10:01 PM
Well i got the final pieces to the puzzle back in the last coue of days! Here are a few pics od the bliwer and its new plenum thanks to ken Wagner. The top is the only thing that has to be completed but i have to mach it up on the motor so the vband flange can be welded to it then its off for the finish!

pro street rich
05-26-2017, 10:30 AM
With all those stickers on that tool box it has to be one of the fastest ones around...lol your work on that car of yours is looking great... keep up the great job... besides when you post all these nice pic's I show my wife and it lets me spend more myself....Rich

davec73
05-26-2017, 11:19 AM
With all those stickers on that tool box it has to be one of the fastest ones around...lol your work on that car of yours is looking great... keep up the great job... besides when you post all these nice pic's I show my wife and it lets me spend more myself....Rich

Yeah my wife has no clue what any of the stickers mean im just trying as hard as can to cover up the yelliw box lol.

pro street rich
05-26-2017, 12:07 PM
Yeah my wife has no clue what any of the stickers mean im just trying as hard as can to cover up the yelliw box lol.

if you want more I have a ton of them that are just sitting here.:cool:.I try to hide the new parts, but she keeps looking in the check book:eek: and I get busted...lol....Rich:)

davec73
05-26-2017, 02:23 PM
if you want more I have a ton of them that are just sitting here.:cool:.I try to hide the new parts, but she keeps looking in the check book:eek: and I get busted...lol....Rich:)

None of my car is built or bought with my paycheck its all expense and extra money.

pro street rich
05-26-2017, 03:01 PM
None of my car is built or bought with my paycheck its all expense and extra money.

She looks at the bank accounts and cards and sees what I spend... I don't have many people give me cash and when you buy from the internet there is always a track that can be followed....Rich

davec73
05-26-2017, 11:51 PM
Well i got alot done today
Heater hose routed
Wiring dis crank sensor coil injectors
Water pump fully installed
supercharger mached up and installed.

Still have quit a ways to go yet. I have to get some things welded but im getting alot closer

davec73
05-31-2017, 11:24 PM
For the first time in a long time i have less things on the to do list than i do the done list! The crankcase breather system with 12 an line is ran, intercooler pipes mached and tested, throttle body installed, final wiring done including electric water pump, radiator test fit, intake test fit. I have to put power steering fluid in, hook up radiator hoses fill with coolant, hard mount crankcase breather mount throttle cable and a few other misc things. I had to make some modifications to the top and mounting plate at which time it will be ready to fire!

davec73
06-02-2017, 12:09 AM
Last couple days have been a realization that i will be driving the car again very soon! I have to take it to a local performance shop mon of next week to have the vband welded to the top. The work has been done to the blower top mounting plate and it looks amazing. The things i completed today where.
Installed lower flex hose under serpentine belt.
Installed jack shaft and serpentine belt.
Filled and burped coolant
Tested electric water pump checked for leaks
Mounted crank case breather with billet clamp
Tested tps voltage
Charged optima and put on maintenance cleaned k&n filter
Installed engine panels with new hardware.
Washed car!

davec73
06-02-2017, 12:12 AM
All washed up and i found a set of staggared wheels i really liked and couldnt pass up

sanddune24
06-02-2017, 08:52 PM
Looks great. I've always liked the 5 spoke wheels on the SC.

davec73
06-02-2017, 08:59 PM
Looks great. I've always liked the 5 spoke wheels on the SC.
I like them as well. I went to alot of effort to make the wgeels on the car work. I like them alot but the ones im putting on the car i really like and thats what should be on the car.

davec73
06-03-2017, 03:53 PM
I have dreaded doing this for quite some time now but I finally got to get it done today. I had an optima trunk mount battery but for it to be NHRA legal it needed to be in a vented .040 thick box. I still have to install the bliw down tube for the n2o and then the car will pass NHRA tech.

nickleman60
06-03-2017, 04:42 PM
Here's my trunk, just on opposite sides as yours. Where's your cutoff switch?

davec73
06-03-2017, 05:05 PM
Mine is mounted behind the lisence plate keith. I made an adapter that pushes the lisence plate iut and the switch sits under it. I put my battery on the passenger side for weight transfer.

davec73
06-03-2017, 07:39 PM
Here's my trunk, just on opposite sides as yours. Where's your cutoff switch?

Here you go

nickleman60
06-04-2017, 08:02 AM
That's pretty nifty Dave............;)

davec73
06-04-2017, 11:55 AM
That's pretty nifty Dave............;)

Took a little brain storming but it works well and its marked on and off from the rear of the car just as it should be.

nickleman60
06-04-2017, 01:00 PM
When I used to go to the track I removed my license plate and connected the push/pull rod and I also have the sticker that says "push off".

davec73
06-04-2017, 11:25 PM
When I used to go to the track I removed my license plate and connected the push/pull rod and I also have the sticker that says "push off".

Nice. Thats clean as well!

davec73
06-04-2017, 11:33 PM
https://youtu.be/B5B8I9GalRY

potshotscott
06-05-2017, 12:50 AM
Great vid!

sam jones
06-05-2017, 02:55 AM
Good evening


Congratulations! Will there be a walk around and review video(s) in the near future?

BLOWN38
06-05-2017, 11:21 AM
Good job Dave. Did you check to see if the battery switch turned off the car?

davec73
06-05-2017, 05:08 PM
Good job Dave. Did you check to see if the battery switch turned off the car?

Lol yeah thats how i can leave the doors open for hours at a time at car shows without running the battery dead.

davec73
06-05-2017, 05:12 PM
Good evening


Congratulations! Will there be a walk around and review video(s) in the near future?

Sam i think i am going to hold off posting any completion pics til after the shootout. I hate to do that but id really like to put a cover on the final results so the people who attend the shootout are the first to see the completed project.

Kurt K
06-06-2017, 07:59 AM
Lol yeah thats how i can leave the doors open for hours at a time at car shows without running the battery dead.
Dave, I think Chris meant while the car is running throw the switch. I've heard of some cutoff switches not killing the car because it is not wired properly and the alternator is still providing power.

BLOWN38
06-06-2017, 09:49 AM
Dave, I think Chris meant while the car is running throw the switch. I've heard of some cutoff switches not killing the car because it is not wired properly and the alternator is still providing power.

Correct......

nickleman60
06-06-2017, 10:54 AM
Dave, I think Chris meant while the car is running throw the switch. I've heard of some cutoff switches not killing the car because it is not wired properly and the alternator is still providing power.

This happened to me when I first hooked mine up, corrected the issue and it worked like it was supposed to. The only thing I hated was that once I killed the motor with the switch I had to recalibrate/set the Zex nitrous management unit.....because I forgot to a couple of times.........:rolleyes:

davec73
06-08-2017, 08:59 PM
Last two days were a success! The car is up and running great. I am going to try to get it to the alignment shop in the next few days so i can start putting miles on it before it hits the dyno on the 30th.

Creighton
06-08-2017, 09:39 PM
Mighty fine work !! Forgot had volume all the way up when started the vid. I'm awake now :-).
Thanks for all of the progress photos.
Creighton

davec73
06-10-2017, 04:25 PM
Wheels and brakes are done!

davec73
06-10-2017, 07:18 PM
Last pic i promise

sanddune24
06-11-2017, 01:43 PM
Last pic i promise



Wheels look great!

davec73
06-11-2017, 09:17 PM
Got the power steering all lined out and took it for a short drive! Cut out going into boost but i know that is the tune which i will get worked out soon. The car drove very good for not being aligned but that will be remedied on tuesday morning. All in all everything is going well and i am really just waiting to dyno tune it.

DrFishbone
06-12-2017, 12:06 PM
I like those wheels!

pro street rich
06-12-2017, 01:53 PM
Dave, what off set did you go with? and what size are they as well. I got to start thinking of wheels and I what to know what off set works.... Otherwise your car is looking "killer" great job, can't wait to see it at the shoot out....Rich

davec73
06-12-2017, 02:17 PM
Dave, what off set did you go with? and what size are they as well. I got to start thinking of wheels and I what to know what off set works.... Otherwise your car is looking "killer" great job, can't wait to see it at the shoot out....Rich
Rich the fronts are 19 8.5 +32 offset the rears are 19 9.5 35 mm offset. Thanks buddy

davec73
07-07-2017, 06:01 PM
Well for those of you who didnt see on Facebook i took the car with Matt Haub after tuning it as best we could to another mustang dyno in Royalton il. After putting 30 of timing and no overdrive at wot the car made 504 hp and 485 tq. We had to make several runs to verify it because his dyno kept glitching out but it is what he says it is as Matt can verify. I am driving the car as much as possible and took it for a long drive today. For once i can say there is no reason i couldnt drive this car anywhere im as happy as can be. Its been a long 8 years but the end of the road is near.....
https://youtu.be/HQjyA1ZCB5c

Ira R.
07-07-2017, 07:51 PM
Very impressive results Dave. Just a great job all around. I can't wait to see it up close this fall. You should be pretty proud of yourself and quite happy with the results!!

BLOWN38
07-07-2017, 08:59 PM
Sweet! Now update your sig.

davec73
07-07-2017, 09:00 PM
Very impressive results Dave. Just a great job all around. I can't wait to see it up close this fall. You should be pretty proud of yourself and quite happy with the results!!

Thanks Ira, honestly it is jyst really a huge weight iff my shoulders. I have always known my plan for this car and this was it i have justt had such terrible luck with stuff it has made me want to throw in the towel more times than i can count. The end result is pretty cool though i cant waite ti finish the rear suspension upgrade and the last thing i have to do is the trunk lid with the xenon spoiler. I am also going to go ahead and pull the nitrous iff of the car while im at it because it will never be used and it is just extra wiring and weight at this point.

davec73
07-07-2017, 09:05 PM
Sweet! Now update your sig.
Nah i will just waite til after i dyno at the shootout. I predict there will be more 500 rwhp cars there than ever before with niebert, oatway, zimmerly, ricardo, ludorf, anthony and mine it should be an exciting year for the supercoupe.

davec73
08-03-2017, 09:35 PM
here is a link for the video of the walk around of the car its ready for the shootout, in August lol
https://youtu.be/GZrlvNT5nUI