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View Full Version : Twin Turbo Progress or lack of



kenewagner
12-01-2016, 11:59 AM
After the horrible debacle of my rear mount turbo setup. I set about to correct the mistake by putting the turbos where they belong, in the engine compartment. I made good progress up to a few months ago. Other projects seem to side line work. For the last 3 weeks my health has been bad and just starting to feel normal again. On top of that one of the kids sold their house and is in process of building a new one. Which will be done in March. So I have a family of 4 moving in with me. The car is going to wait to finish until spring. Was so close to startup. Some of the parts are just setting in place, no coil pack, the radiator tube is still off. Having problems loading more pictures. Anyway a few pictures of the progress

Ken

no164ford
12-01-2016, 04:26 PM
Dang you do nice work! Looks great!

XR7 Dave
12-01-2016, 06:41 PM
Looks amazing as always Ken! Can't wait to see/hear it running in spring.

XxSlowpokexX
12-01-2016, 08:28 PM
Dam Kennnnnnnnnnnn...SWEEET AS ALWAYS!!!!

kenewagner
12-01-2016, 09:06 PM
Dam Kennnnnnnnnnnn...SWEEET AS ALWAYS!!!!
And there's still more

Ken

David Neibert
12-02-2016, 12:43 PM
Wowser ! Looks fantastic Ken, and I think you made a good decision to put the turbos up front where they belong.

David

PS: Are those chrome plated heat shields covering the headers and turbo mounting flanges ?

kenewagner
12-02-2016, 01:39 PM
Wowser ! Looks fantastic Ken, and I think you made a good decision to put the turbos up front where they belong.

David

PS: Are those chrome plated heat shields covering the headers and turbo mounting flanges ?

Yes the manifolds are wrapped with lava wrap to retain heat. The chrome heat shields should help keep heat from the bottom of the hood.The extra bling doesnt hurt either.

Ken

David Neibert
12-02-2016, 01:53 PM
Yes the manifolds are wrapped with lava wrap to retain heat. The chrome heat shields should help keep heat from the bottom of the hood.The extra bling doesnt hurt either.

Ken

Very cool !

David

kenewagner
12-02-2016, 02:48 PM
Very cool !

David

I shed about 200+ lbs off the car. The turbos upgraded with bigger AR housings. And a really short exhaust all in hopes of really fast spooling. For now just going to run 20lb springs in the waste gates. Later might add the two step and boost regulator if needed

Ken

89XR7TD
12-02-2016, 02:48 PM
Looking very nice Ken!!!! Great job buddy, as usual!!!!

KMT
12-02-2016, 03:19 PM
The extra bling doesnt hurt either.

Not sure I would cover the DIS like that, but in this case, I doubt short runs would hurt. A DIS as-is will never win any beauty contest.

Very pretty in any case.

Ken

neverfastenough
12-02-2016, 03:33 PM
Very cool ken. Definitely one of a kind, I think you'll spool much sooner and have better transient response.

92bird
12-02-2016, 03:38 PM
Looks awesome!

racecougar
12-02-2016, 11:04 PM
Looks awesome, Ken!

CMac89
12-05-2016, 02:18 PM
Looks great, Ken! I'll have to watch my back and the Shootout!

Sorry to hear you haven't been feeling well. I hope everything gets better! Burnouts are the best cure.

kenewagner
12-05-2016, 04:02 PM
Looks great, Ken! I'll have to watch my back and the Shootout!

Sorry to hear you haven't been feeling well. I hope everything gets better! Burnouts are the best cure.

I don't think I will be in Corey's or your HP range. I would like to shoot for a 10 second time slip. Only time will tell if I put together a working combination to achieve that. Would love to go head to head with Neiberts white SC:D

Ken

pro street rich
12-05-2016, 08:37 PM
I don't think I will be in Corey's or your HP range. I would like to shoot for a 10 second time slip. Only time will tell if I put together a working combination to achieve that. Would love to go head to head with Neiberts white SC:D

Ken

I hear tell there are a few other's that are also shooting for that mark.. even someone is going after Brian O this next year... I think it will be one wild shootout this coming year.... but fear not there are two awards that will go out... Ken for engine, and Ira for burn outs.....lol ...Rich

20psiofevil
12-06-2016, 06:56 PM
"just 20 psi springs" I think youre going to have your hands full at that boost level. Good job, it looks very clean!

pro street rich
12-06-2016, 07:57 PM
Hey Ken just thinking, how big of a turbo setup are you putting on there?? single or twin?? Just thinking out loud here....Rich

neverfastenough
12-06-2016, 08:14 PM
It's twins rich, look in the picture lol:p

pro street rich
12-06-2016, 08:23 PM
It's twins rich, look in the picture lol:p

just wanted to know how big, but was not thinking....Rich

davec73
12-06-2016, 09:38 PM
Looks amazing Ken! I'm glad to see you got some things done to it man!

kenewagner
12-07-2016, 11:43 AM
just wanted to know how big, but was not thinking....Rich

Turbos are Precision 48MM 60Trim. Exh is 57MM with .48 AR housing. Upgraded to ball bearing. As you can see they are not sized to make the kind of power of Corey or Casey. I wanted fast spooling, hopefully with my nonlocking TQ converter, to make in the mid 500 rwhp range. They original had .36 AR housings which I believe was choking off top HP numbers. The original setup in the rear was probably one of the dumbest things I ever did on this car. Hopefully I did it all right this time

Ken

pro street rich
12-07-2016, 11:54 AM
you already know that it looks great, now if you can get it to run half as good as it looks it will be a MONSTER keep up the good work and we will see you at this coming shoot out where you will be kicking some bad a.. See you then....Rich

kenewagner
12-07-2016, 01:21 PM
you already know that it looks great, now if you can get it to run half as good as it looks it will be a MONSTER keep up the good work and we will see you at this coming shoot out where you will be kicking some bad a.. See you then....Rich

One way or another I will be at the next shootout. Been to long for me since Ive been there

Ken

David Neibert
12-07-2016, 02:41 PM
I don't think I will be in Corey's or your HP range. I would like to shoot for a 10 second time slip. Only time will tell if I put together a working combination to achieve that. Would love to go head to head with Neiberts white SC:D

Ken

Ken,

If you add a full manual trans brake VB, you shouldn't have any problem beating me.

David

PS: 20 lb spring may be a bit much...suggest something closer to 14 psi for pump gas street use, then use a boost controller to go up from there for race gas boost levels.

neverfastenough
12-07-2016, 03:07 PM
Turbos are Precision 48MM 60Trim. Exh is 57MM with .48 AR housing. Upgraded to ball bearing. As you can see they are not sized to make the kind of power of Corey or Casey. I wanted fast spooling, hopefully with my nonlocking TQ converter, to make in the mid 500 rwhp range. They original had .36 AR housings which I believe was choking off top HP numbers. The original setup in the rear was probably one of the dumbest things I ever did on this car. Hopefully I did it all right this time

Ken

I think the turbos are actually a good size for what you're doing, didn't know they offered those in a ball bearing, that's even better. It should spool well and support your 500rwhp goal.

kenewagner
12-07-2016, 03:07 PM
Ken,

If you add a full manual trans brake VB, you shouldn't have any problem beating me.

David

PS: 20 lb spring may be a bit much...suggest something closer to 14 psi for pump gas street use, then use a boost controller to go up from there for race gas boost levels.

I already have the full manual Lentech valve body, man they are pricey. I have yet to use it. I have a wiring diagram for the steering wheel. I am going to try and use the cruse control button for the trans brake. I have a two step system but haven't installed it. Will wait to see how it runs without it. I ran the 20lbs springs on it with the rear mount, I run 100 unlead octane. It is always just a toy and don't plan any long cruses with it, so the added cost of the 100 octane is not to bad. Some day might rethink that.

Ken

neverfastenough
12-07-2016, 03:12 PM
I already have the full manual Lentech valve body, man they are pricey. I have yet to use it. I have a wiring diagram for the steering wheel. I am going to try and use the cruse control button for the trans brake. I have a two step system but haven't installed it. Will wait to see how it runs without it. I ran the 20lbs springs on it with the rear mount, I run 100 unlead octane. It is always just a toy and don't plan any long cruses with it, so the added cost of the 100 octane is not to bad. Some day might rethink that.

Ken

Since you made a drastic change to the setup, it would be wise to run a lower spring first and make sure you're hitting your desired boost with no creep.

kenewagner
12-07-2016, 03:21 PM
Since you made a drastic change to the setup, it would be wise to run a lower spring first and make sure you're hitting your desired boost with no creep.

Explain the creep? I planned to run it on the dyno to run it under controlled conditions and get a before and after comparrision

ken

neverfastenough
12-07-2016, 07:37 PM
Boost creep occurs when the wastegate cannot dump off enough exhaust to slow the turbine down. This can be caused by too small of gate, poorly located gate, restrictive dump tube, or restrictive down pipe if you run your wg to it. What you'll see on your boost curve is your wg open at your spring but then slowly continue to rise with rpm. My gate is in a bad location, I could put a 4psi spring in and I'll make 18psi creeping to 20 psi by the end of the pull. The wastegate simply can't bypass enough exhaust. It's more noticeable at low desired boost levels when the wg is working really hard.

20psiofevil
12-07-2016, 08:59 PM
Turbos are Precision 48MM 60Trim. Exh is 57MM with .48 AR housing. Upgraded to ball bearing. As you can see they are not sized to make the kind of power of Corey or Casey. I wanted fast spooling, hopefully with my nonlocking TQ converter, to make in the mid 500 rwhp range. They original had .36 AR housings which I believe was choking off top HP numbers. The original setup in the rear was probably one of the dumbest things I ever did on this car. Hopefully I did it all right this time

Ken

Hey Ken, is your engine 3.8l or 4.2l? I honestly don't think it's going to make a bit of difference in spool up if you switched to 63 ar. Those turbos are going to light off FAST! Might have to throw another one in the mix:D

I run a tial yellow and a 5 psi spring on mine. Grimm speed boost controller but I hate it!

kenewagner
12-08-2016, 11:07 AM
Boost creep occurs when the wastegate cannot dump off enough exhaust to slow the turbine down. This can be caused by too small of gate, poorly located gate, restrictive dump tube, or restrictive down pipe if you run your wg to it. What you'll see on your boost curve is your wg open at your spring but then slowly continue to rise with rpm. My gate is in a bad location, I could put a 4psi spring in and I'll make 18psi creeping to 20 psi by the end of the pull. The wastegate simply can't bypass enough exhaust. It's more noticeable at low desired boost levels when the wg is working really hard.

In the rear location the car never made more than 19PSI. Then I had the waste gates plumbed back into the rear exhaust on the previous setup. It was speculated that backpressure from the mufflers might have been causing the wast gates to opening up bleeding off boost. The new setup has waste gates exhausted to atmosphere so no back pressure there. The exhaust has no restriction after the turbos so spooling should be outrageously fast. Waste gate location is ideal according to ever book on turbo charging I have ever seen. The nice thing about running on the dyno is the ability to monitor it carefully so any spiking of PSI would end the pull. Is that, in your opinion a decent way to go? My waste gates are not the easiest thing to get at since two of everything makes for not a lot of room to work on things. A bad side of twin turbos

kenewagner
12-08-2016, 11:09 AM
Hey Ken, is your engine 3.8l or 4.2l? I honestly don't think it's going to make a bit of difference in spool up if you switched to 63 ar. Those turbos are going to light off FAST! Might have to throw another one in the mix:D

I run a tial yellow and a 5 psi spring on mine. Grimm speed boost controller but I hate it!

3.8. If I had to add another it would have to go in the trunk

Ken

kenewagner
12-08-2016, 11:20 AM
Hey Ken, is your engine 3.8l or 4.2l? I honestly don't think it's going to make a bit of difference in spool up if you switched to 63 ar. Those turbos are going to light off FAST! Might have to throw another one in the mix:D

I run a tial yellow and a 5 psi spring on mine. Grimm speed boost controller but I hate it!

3.8. If I had to add another it would have to go in the trunk

Ken

David Neibert
12-08-2016, 01:00 PM
I already have the full manual Lentech valve body, man they are pricey. I have yet to use it. I have a wiring diagram for the steering wheel. I am going to try and use the cruse control button for the trans brake. I have a two step system but haven't installed it. Will wait to see how it runs without it. I ran the 20lbs springs on it with the rear mount, I run 100 unlead octane. It is always just a toy and don't plan any long cruses with it, so the added cost of the 100 octane is not to bad. Some day might rethink that.

Ken

Ken,

You will need the 2 step to keep rpm and boost levels down to a manageable level when launching. Having the launch rpm adjustable will also be necessary for adapting to changing weather and track conditions. Suggest wiring it into the trans brake button so the only time it's used is when on the trans brake. I had my trans brake activation button on a cord that was wired to a relay mounted inside the glove compartment. I would hold it with right hand while holding shifter, and drop the cord after releasing the button. No matter how you do it, it's going to take some time getting used to releasing the button when you have the gas pedal on the floor.

David

kenewagner
12-08-2016, 01:09 PM
Ken,

You will need the 2 step to keep rpm and boost levels down to a manageable level when launching. Having the launch rpm adjustable will also be necessary for adapting to changing weather and track conditions. Suggest wiring it into the trans brake button so the only time it's used is when on the trans brake. I had my trans brake activation button on a cord that was wired to a relay mounted inside the glove compartment. I would hold it with right hand while holding shifter, and drop the cord after releasing the button. No matter how you do it, it's going to take some time getting used to releasing the button when you have the gas pedal on the floor.

David

I bought a cord setup just like yours. I even wired it up. Havent used it yet. One of our smarter members here suggested using the cruse control button keeping both hands on the wheel. I was starting to wire the two step in but got side tracked trying to just get it up and running. Guess there time in the spring to do that as well. what do you set yours in relation to stall speed of your converter. I have a 3000 stall converter

neverfastenough
12-08-2016, 01:10 PM
You could keep the old springs in, just make sure you start at low timing and good fuel, and be ready to pull your foot out very fast incase

DrFishbone
12-08-2016, 02:01 PM
Awesome Ken! I've wondered several times what you were up to the past couple of years - missed seeing you at the Shootout.

kenewagner
12-08-2016, 02:19 PM
Awesome Ken! I've wondered several times what you were up to the past couple of years - missed seeing you at the Shootout.

Last year my wife had two operations she was recovering from. This year there was so much going on in the family and traveling that we just couldn't afford another trip. Next year my planning will be better and I will be there where ever they decide to hold it

Ken

David Neibert
12-08-2016, 06:31 PM
I bought a cord setup just like yours. I even wired it up. Havent used it yet. One of our smarter members here suggested using the cruse control button keeping both hands on the wheel. I was starting to wire the two step in but got side tracked trying to just get it up and running. Guess there time in the spring to do that as well. what do you set yours in relation to stall speed of your converter. I have a 3000 stall converter

Ken,

With a 3500 stall converter I had my two step rpms set at around 3000. Some people go higher than rated stall setting, just depends on what rpm and load you need to spool the turbos. Higher rpm usually means higher boost at launch. Here is a go-pro video of me using the trans brake and two step on my 93 SC..watch my right hand to see button released and dropped.

https://youtu.be/qGVSNJH5a3I

David

Nettlesd
12-09-2016, 03:09 PM
So shiny! I'm sure you're proud. Looks super fast for the 200 hp. :)

mywhite89
12-10-2016, 12:30 AM
Looks awesome. You have mad skills! Hope to see the car next year again.

20psiofevil
12-10-2016, 04:27 PM
I bought a cord setup just like yours. I even wired it up. Havent used it yet. One of our smarter members here suggested using the cruse control button keeping both hands on the wheel. I was starting to wire the two step in but got side tracked trying to just get it up and running. Guess there time in the spring to do that as well. what do you set yours in relation to stall speed of your converter. I have a 3000 stall converter

3000rpm converter here as well. I used the cord but did not like it so mounted a push button permanent on the console divider right behind the shifter (mustang). I launch around 3200rpm on 2 step, this builds 11-12psi. You have to set the 2 step where you build boost but still be able to hook. If I try and launch at 4000rpm it will build all the boost and blow the tires off. 2800rpm/5psi was to low with the hoosier slicks because the converter would not flash quick enough and as soon as the tires unload the car would bog. With launching you have to find the spot of what your setup likes. With turbo's you are going to find making power is the easy part, getting the power to the ground is whats tricky lol. Good thing is there is a ton of technology out there that will help a turbo car get down the road, just have to decide how fast you want to go and what you're willing to spend.

BirdofPrey97
12-12-2016, 10:06 AM
Looks great Ken. Nice to have a local guy working on his. Helps keep the rest of us motivated. Let me know when you take it to the track. Hoping mine is up and going by then and we can get a group of us together.

kenewagner
06-05-2017, 11:16 AM
Car is up and running. Its is pig rich though, almost thought I had a diesel under the hood. Making arrangements to tune it. My good friend Benny will be cleaning up the wiring in the console and wiring the two step. I had removed the lowering springs in the rear and had stock one in when my setup was in the rear. With all the weight moved back up front I had to reinstall the lowering springs back in to get the car sitting right. I figure the car has dropped 250+ lbs with all the changes I have made.

Ken

DrFishbone
06-05-2017, 12:08 PM
Glad to hear there's progress! :)

I'm diggin the bumper cover cutout for the exhaust (or is it intake?). :cool:

neverfastenough
06-05-2017, 01:58 PM
Very exciting!!!

davec73
06-05-2017, 05:20 PM
Looks great ken i cant waite to see it this fall!