View Full Version : Advice on transfer of parts to a SC replacement short block.

12-15-2016, 10:07 PM
So the story on my yet to be picked up 94 is it was going down the highway, knocking noise and then motor locked up.

Have my eye on a rebuilt in 2012 10k mile short block assembly. Hoping to just inspect and move the good parts over.

Looking for advice on what to watch out for. Old cam to different block is first that comes to mind.

12-16-2016, 12:19 AM
Is the 2012 10k SB a '94 SC motor, too?

12-16-2016, 12:33 AM
Yes, it appears to be a 94 block that went through the rebuild plant and then stamped 2012. A buddy tells me there was one in Fairlawn NJ. Now closed

12-16-2016, 12:44 AM
Dunno if I'd bother w/the old cam. Might as well make it new too. Same with oil pump, timing gear/chain, water pump, motor mounts/brackets, etc.

All you need once you get finished w/new is the oil pan/pickup/dipstick, flywheel (ground), exhaust, front cover, accy. brackets, thermostat housing and intake - don't forget the fuel/rail/FPR/injectors, but I'd consider sending them over to witchhunters..

sam jones
12-16-2016, 01:22 AM
Good evening

I start with the assumption that many of engine components are need of replacement and or rebuild.

- New plugs and wires.
- New harmonic balancer, bolt and washer. Replace crankshaft sensor (1989 - 1993).
- New main rear crankshaft seal.
- New water pump.
- New oil pump.
- New head bolts and or purchase head stud kit.
- Inspect the cam, rollers, rocker arms and push rods for scoring and galling damage.
- New radiator hoses.
- New thermostat.
- New oil pressure and coolant sender.
- New engine gasket rebuild kit.
- New engine and transmission mounts.
- New oxygen sensors.
- New belts and pulleys.
- New supercharge pulley seal.
- New fuel and oil filter.

Chase all engine block and heads bolts - bolt holes with a tap and dye set.
Have the radiator cleaned and pressure checked.
If manual replace slave and master cylinder. Inspect clutch and flywheel. Replace defective parts.

Although not necessary I recommend the following:

- With the engine out this would be and excellent time to do corrosion control and painting in the engine bay and engine component.
- Inspect, repair or replace the battery cables especially the negative. Inspect the engine grounds cables.
- If automatic add external transmission filter.
- Inspect, repair or replace all vacuum lines.
- Inspect the front brakes.
- You will get no better time to replace the power steering pump and the rack and pinion assembly if needed.
- Inspect the front upper and lower control arms.
- Inspect the stabilizer link and stabilizer bar bushing.
- Inspect the harness. Repair if necessary including convoluted tubing and use a good (i.e. 3M) electric tape.
- Charge the battery.

This is only an outline. Many members will include more or less.

Good Luck.

12-16-2016, 02:49 AM
WOW !! That is outstanding Mr. Jones. Printed and will serve as a check off list. Can't thank the users/members here enough for all of the help and suggestions.

12-16-2016, 02:20 PM
Q: How much time do you have for this rebuild and how thorough do you plan to be?
Some thoughts I have from my own (somewhat limited at only 2-3 builds) engine rebuild experience:

1) Unless you rebuilt that replacement SC block yourself or knew the person who did it, it wouldn't hurt while you had it on an engine stand to check the bearing clearances and inspect for wear.

2) When you replace the oil pump, you can also spend time "blueprinting it" before packing it with grease to help the initial startup.
I don't know much about the 3.8SC (my work was with the SBF oil pump but i cannot imagine that the engineering design will be significantly different -- the target specs might so do your research)

3) Some parts might be worth replacing anyway even if the old ones look good. On your 3.8SC engine, stock length pushrods are only $1.20-1.70/ea so buying 6x2 isn't a bad idea if you already have the engine opened up and are placing an order with rockauto anyway.

4) Is there any value in you upgrading rocker arms while you have the engine on a stand? Obviously that decision should be made in conjunction with whatever cam you are choosing but it's worth considering while it's all out.


12-18-2016, 02:56 AM
Quick background hit 55 yrs. old. Wanted to have one more fun car that would be of interest at shows. Can't afford the 1st gen Cougars had 35 yrs ago and sorting through just the given headlight issues wasn't all that appealing anyway. Dad always had Thunderbirds. Narrowed search to a running original 1989. Bought a nice one local.

Other than putting a 145mph speedo on have no plans to change anything from stock. When the white 94 turned up couldn't resist. Like the interior on 94/95's. No reason for it to stay 100% factory correct. Short story turned long...

Get the car home and see just what I have. Keep reading all resources can find. Sell most of the stashed 68 Cougar parts.


12-22-2016, 12:40 AM
It will depend question I know. Pick up the 94 next Tue. When a 3.8L knocks and then locks up is it at the crankshaft or elsewhere? First thing will drop the oil pan and take a look see. Going nuts here waiting to get SC-II in the shop.