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Creighton
12-24-2016, 10:50 PM
Searched with no success. Suspect this is a rare as hens teeth part in working order. Open for a workaround solution. Not going to change this over to later style. It is stuck in the back position so safe. Just a chore getting in and out.
Thanks!
Creighton

KMT
12-24-2016, 11:37 PM
Talking about the cassette mechanism that sits inside the body, next to the backseat and runs up over the door or just the belt - might want to put an ad in the wanted section to see what comes up.

I was going to grab a complete unit out of a wreck in the yard, just to have for inventory until I found out how much work they can be to pull...got lucky and found a pair that someone took loose just to get at the side glass, so all I had to do was pick them up.

Creighton
12-25-2016, 12:04 AM
Hope both. Will do on the wanted section. Sadly all of the salvage yards here have no SC's. Really should spend the coin for the cross reference manual. Anyone know what other cars had the same system?
Thanks!!
Creighton

KMT
12-25-2016, 02:22 AM
Anyone know what other cars had the same system?

Don't think is has to be from an SC? I'll see if I have a photo that shows it still in the car, or have you gotten that far and seen what's behind the panel, etc.? BTW, they are left/right specific and the belts color match the interior. I used to see SCs in the yards as a routine, then they started drying up a couple years ago. I've been in two yards in the last few weeks and there were still plenty of MN-12s.

MN-12 (birds, cougars & MK VIIIs '89 ~ '97) wiki is here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_MN12_platform. I think tho just the early models (US, not Canada) had the motorized belts. My '90 has them - when they get stuck in one spot I just bathe w/silicone spray/white grease. At one point I had the trim out over the door and it made it easier to clean and lube. Cleaned w/WD-40 and then used the white grease/spray. Same with the seat tracks. The factory lube is so old it tries to turn back into a dinosaur...

Quick question about your freestar....how's the road/cabin noise? My windstar is pretty noisy on the freeway - might be the tires and the crappy oregon roads, tho...time for some dynamat, I guess. My SC on the same roads is like a tomb.

RalphP
12-25-2016, 02:34 AM
Any Tbird/Cougar 1989-1993 seatbelt from the US will fit and work; only the label on the buckle (if that much!) will be SC specific.

RwP

sam jones
12-25-2016, 03:17 AM
Good evening


Not necessary to located a S/C for replacement passive belt assembly. 1989 - 1993 MN-12 non S/C are the same. This is what I have learned since I have made many trips to replace the passive belt assembly from the salvage yard.

1. The belt drive normally fails because of lack of lubrication.

2. The motor is the most reliable part of the system.

3. At the salvage yard find 1992 -1993 Thunderbird as I have less troubles with the the assembly. Remove the entire assembly (motor, tract, bracing, mounts, both limit/spool switches) and the passive restraint module. It is located in the truck driver side underneath the triangle cover.

4. Inspect the belt for elongated/damaged holes in the drive track. Reject assembly if found.

5. Once installed lube the track with white lithium grease or silicone lube. Do this once a year for driver and passenger sides.


Good Luck.

Creighton
12-25-2016, 05:04 AM
Thanks all. Motor is good. Once in the garage will pull entire assembly. If just enlongated mounting holes on the track can I just braze additional material and Dremal back to spec? Will expand search. Know from restoring vintage drum parts nylon bits don't last past 15 yrs. at best. Hope it is just a clean an lube.

KMT, The power rear vent windows don't seal worth a darn on the Freestar. Side doors not much better. There appears to be some adjustment on the rear vents, not sure if enough. Did one driver and other sleep in the back from KS. and was drafty. Ended up using blue painters tape to seal the air leaks around doors windows. 50mph wind gusts were not fun seeing semi's blown over in the ditch...Shoulders still hurt from keeping the Freestar on the road. My SC is air-tight as well they just don't build them like they used to.
Creighton

RalphP
12-25-2016, 10:10 AM
Thanks all. Motor is good. Once in the garage will pull entire assembly. If just enlongated mounting holes on the track can I just braze additional material and Dremal back to spec? Will expand search. Know from restoring vintage drum parts nylon bits don't last past 15 yrs. at best. Hope it is just a clean an lube.

It's usually elongated holes in the NYLON portion; if you can braze and dremel those, let me know, I'll send you all kinds of tracks to fix.

RwP

Creighton
12-25-2016, 05:54 PM
Anyone tried Epoxy to fix them?
Creighton

sam jones
12-25-2016, 09:36 PM
Good evening


The problem with epoxy for the passive restraint belt is matching the product with the desired result and cost. Not only does the epoxy have to have high strength but for the belt highly flexible. Nothing you can buy at the local hardware store. Only products made for the very high end industry use products like:

- RELTEK. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwimk7Tc0ZDRAhVqq1QKHSaeClMQFghuMAc&url=http%3A%2F%2Freltekllc.com%2Fadhesivesfornylon .aspx&usg=AFQjCNHya4PAY1uljNjV3cg-4RbcIMQzhg&sig2=yDbUczCUugB5jZkBfW_ZsA



- 3M http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/. Note. I have personally used this product with great results but I would not recommend for highly flexible repairs.



For the products to work in this case the repair must be re-enforce. So you would have ensure the finish repair would have the clearance at the "B" pillar track angle and the extreme track angles/path to the extent/retract drive gear.

At @ $ 40.00 or more per and the associated applicators to repair elongated track holes in my opinion the costs out weigh the benefits in this case.


Good Luck.

XR7 Dave
12-26-2016, 09:07 AM
I have some tracks in good condition. They've been stored for awhile though, so I guess I'd have to figure out how to test and verify them. I specifically pulled them from the car because they worked well and it was a lower mileage car so I supposed it's worth a shot when I have time to check them.