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View Full Version : how much do we save in weight?? aje "K" member setup...



pro street rich
01-11-2017, 12:17 AM
Well a while ago I ordered a "K" member with the upper and lower a arms as well as a set of coil overs for one of my birds. The stuff just got here today and from the shipping label all this stuff hits the scale at 106 lbs. Now that is with the shipping boxes and wrapping paper, so drop say 5 lbs and you are right at 100 lbs with all the hardware as well. Also this is with the spindles and all of it's mounting plates and engine mounts.. Now I know that everyone always wants to know how much it is so here you go. When I get out in the shop I will drop the old stuff off the car and get a weight for all of that.. I know it has to be almost twice that so lets see what I got to save here....Will keep you all in on this as it goes...Rich

fastsc92
01-11-2017, 10:15 AM
Love to see a breakdown of the weight from each part (new and old) if you've got the time. I'd like to know how much the control arms and strut rods that they provide weigh.

no164ford
01-11-2017, 02:16 PM
Kevin Leitem claimed 275# loss with aje k-member coil covers spindles lca's and a set of Wildwood brakes a few years back.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?82438-Looking-for-Kevin-Leitem&highlight=aje

pro street rich
01-11-2017, 06:10 PM
Kevin Leitem claimed 275# loss with aje k-member coil covers spindles lca's and a set of Wildwood brakes a few years back.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?82438-Looking-for-Kevin-Leitem&highlight=aje

That is the same setup that I have here.. so lets see what it comes in at.. I know that the coil over's are a lot lighter than the stock set up so time will tell.....Rich

davec73
01-11-2017, 07:14 PM
The oem member and strut rods weigh 78 lbs

racecougar
01-11-2017, 09:53 PM
When I weighed a stock K-member with the strut rods and LCA's attached years ago it came in at 82 lbs (on an accurate freight scale, not a cheapo bathroom scale).

davec73
01-11-2017, 10:31 PM
When I weighed a stock K-member with the strut rods and LCA's attached years ago it came in at 82 lbs (on an accurate freight scale, not a cheapo bathroom scale).

Mine was a bathroom scale so I'd trust yours.

racecougar
01-11-2017, 10:57 PM
Just meant for that to provide clarification that it was a trusted scale. Nothing else intended.

pro street rich
01-12-2017, 12:31 AM
with the normal number sounding like 80 lbs then if you save maybe 10 lbs with the upper arms there is not much saving here?? I know with the lighter brake set up there will be some but not that much. The coil over's are maybe going to be 10 more so that is not much here... Oh well I will get into the shop this weekend I hope and then we should have some better numbers. But for now I don't think it will be anywhere near what Kevin said he got....Rich

pro street rich
01-12-2017, 12:34 AM
I guess I got to say that it does look good and it will give me some more needed room under this thing.. but was it money well spent?? the jury is still out on that one, but it is not looking like it was the smartest thing to do this go round....Rich

KMT
01-12-2017, 12:58 AM
What Kevin said about 275# is here:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?80228-going-to-track&p=552800#post552800

no164ford
01-12-2017, 02:27 AM
What Kevin said about 275# is here:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?80228-going-to-track&p=552800#post552800

That makes more sense. I know he switched over to manual rack way back and I wonder if that would be include in the 275 lbs savings. I know the drag brake set up is super light also.

davec73
01-12-2017, 08:15 AM
Just meant for that to provide clarification that it was a trusted scale. Nothing else intended.
I know Rod, I'm glad you weighed it with a good scale. I just threw it up on the old bathroom scale I have in the garage for weighing stuff before I ship it through ups.

fastsc92
01-12-2017, 01:09 PM
What Kevin said about 275# is here:....

Definitely makes more sense. I couldn't imagine that it would save that much with just the aje parts. I have a tubular K, but retain the stock control arms and strut rods. I suspected a few lb's could be shaved off switching to tubular components but not a ton. The stock-style dampers w/ springs and iron spindles are pretty significant so I can believe a lot could be saved in those areas.

Not a lot of weight savings with the k-member alone. My variant weights about 19-20lb less.

ScrapSC
01-12-2017, 01:38 PM
I understand we all love the idea of weight savings and that is definitely a plus. I have wanted one not only for a weight savings but just the room it looks to free up on working on anything underneath.

pro street rich
01-12-2017, 02:35 PM
I understand we all love the idea of weight savings and that is definitely a plus. I have wanted one not only for a weight savings but just the room it looks to free up on working on anything underneath.

I am trying to do something weird again and need all the room. I want to run a stock hood on one of my transplants and I need to drop the engine as low as I can. I also would be fine with the weight saving but that does not look to be a big part of this.. The extra room is also the big plus on doing this... I need all the room I can get to make this simple and easy to do. Sure it will fit without this, BUT this will just give me that little extra to help keep this cool and user friendly.....Rich

davec73
01-12-2017, 06:54 PM
A little but of weight all over adds up. I am going through my entire care removing anything that doesn't have to be there for weight savings. I don't want to have to scramble around on race day pulling crap out of my car at the track. Mine is mounted and I have a ton more room for the intercooler tubes headers etc. I am also going to use heim joint boots to cover them and grease them with a turkey injector periodically so the squeaky noises arnt an issue.

SCDan35thANV
01-13-2017, 04:03 AM
I am trying to do something weird again and need all the room. I want to run a stock hood on one of my transplants and I need to drop the engine as low as I can. I also would be fine with the weight saving but that does not look to be a big part of this.. The extra room is also the big plus on doing this... I need all the room I can get to make this simple and easy to do. Sure it will fit without this, BUT this will just give me that little extra to help keep this cool and user friendly.....Rich

So how many cubes this time :D

pro street rich
01-13-2017, 08:44 AM
So how many cubes this time :D

this one is bigger in size and the heads are even bigger than before... BUT the spark plugs are right on the top of things so they will be easy to change...lol...

aroot1
01-13-2017, 05:46 PM
OHHHHH!!!!!! Boss 9 Birdy? Freekin awesome!

Adam

BirdofPrey97
01-17-2017, 11:01 AM
When I bought my bird I was 185lbs. Now I am 273. For the life of me I can't get the car light enough. Where else could weight loss occur? Getting old is fun. :o

no164ford
01-17-2017, 12:10 PM
Rich if you get a chance weigh one of the AJE coil over struts and knuckles and let me know.

I am going to try and use spindles from a 87-93 v8 fox mustang with A1 coil covers for the same. And would like to know what the difference is so we can post it.

If it works out I plan to do a thread on using a fox spindle, strut, and brakes with AJE k-member and lower control arms.

Thanks, Paul

OxmanWI
01-17-2017, 08:16 PM
Here is a picture from a year ago. My AJE was 55 pounds total. That was the k-member, arms, mounts and hardware. Compared to the stock stuff at 85 pounds. 30ish pounds off the front end. I used a shipping scale rated at 125 pounds.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h72/oxman64/WeightSavings_zpslrzvfdnl.jpg

ScrapSC
01-18-2017, 10:56 AM
30 lbs is nice bit and it really allows easier access to anything under the engine.

pro street rich
01-18-2017, 11:36 AM
Rich if you get a chance weigh one of the AJE coil over struts and knuckles and let me know.

I am going to try and use spindles from a 87-93 v8 fox mustang with A1 coil covers for the same. And would like to know what the difference is so we can post it.

If it works out I plan to do a thread on using a fox spindle, strut, and brakes with AJE k-member and lower control arms.

Thanks, Paul

Paul I put the strut and spindle on the scale it is only 6 lbs complete, :eek:now add the spring and it goes up two more pounds..:eek: So there you have that part.. the upper a arms are two lbs as well each.:cool:. So now you can add that to what the others have come up with for weights and you got the whole picture.. hope this helps....Rich:D:cool:

no164ford
01-18-2017, 12:59 PM
Paul I put the strut and spindle on the scale it is only 6 lbs complete, :eek:now add the spring and it goes up two more pounds..:eek: So there you have that part.. the upper a arms are two lbs as well each.:cool:. So now you can add that to what the others have come up with for weights and you got the whole picture.. hope this helps....Rich:D:cool:

Wow that's light! Once I get the mustang A1 coilovers I will weigh them with the factory iron mustang spindles and see what they total up to. Thank you Rich

pro street rich
01-18-2017, 01:44 PM
they are so light I hope they take all the abuse that I am going to throw at them.. Got to watch how I put this back on the ground when it gets up on the back wheels....Rich:eek:

pro street rich
01-18-2017, 01:49 PM
with the power this thing could make it will be a wheels up car for sure. We are thinking between 3 to 4 hp per cube... so this thing should be stupid.:eek:...Rich

S4gunn
01-18-2017, 02:37 PM
Q: Is the AJE subframe really only held to the chassis with 4 bolts instead of the stock kmember's 8 bolts (2 per corner)?
In looking at the picture, I only see one bolt hole at each corner.

pro street rich
01-18-2017, 03:08 PM
Q: Is the AJE subframe really only held to the chassis with 4 bolts instead of the stock kmember's 8 bolts (2 per corner)?
In looking at the picture, I only see one bolt hole at each corner.

Yes there are only four bolts to hold it in place. I have run really big big block engines and they have not moved. I have had one for over ten years and it is still going good...

S4gunn
01-18-2017, 03:16 PM
Yes there are only four bolts to hold it in place. I have run really big big block engines and they have not moved. I have had one for over ten years and it is still going good...

Hrm. The only reason I ask is because when I checked my lemons car after my last race, I noticed that 6 out of 8 of my subframe bolts were loose. I had "broken" the factory attachment a few years ago when I experimented with running an extra large oil pan and had to drop the subframe slightly to install it. Even though I tightened all 8 of them after that install and haven't messed with it since (went back to a stock oil pan after that experiment), over the last 2-3 years the bolts had worked themselves a little loose.

Its something I wouldn't have thought about (but do check now) and if I ever went with a tubular kmember (doubtful even the most lenient judge would never accept one on what is supposed to be a $500 racecar unless it was a total DIY hackjob), it's something I would check everytime I was under greasing bushings pre-race -- something else I only recently started doing ;).


-g

pro street rich
01-18-2017, 03:57 PM
Hrm. The only reason I ask is because when I checked my lemons car after my last race, I noticed that 6 out of 8 of my subframe bolts were loose. I had "broken" the factory attachment a few years ago when I experimented with running an extra large oil pan and had to drop the subframe slightly to install it. Even though I tightened all 8 of them after that install and haven't messed with it since (went back to a stock oil pan after that experiment), over the last 2-3 years the bolts had worked themselves a little loose.

Its something I wouldn't have thought about (but do check now) and if I ever went with a tubular kmember (doubtful even the most lenient judge would never accept one on what is supposed to be a $500 racecar unless it was a total DIY hackjob), it's something I would check everytime I was under greasing bushings pre-race -- something else I only recently started doing ;).


-g

I have not had any issues on any of my cars with the "K" members.. I got to think that something else might be going on with yours.. Like I said I have been running one for a long time and it still is fine... Good luck and maybe look into some lock tight as well as their cleaner before you do it....Rich

no164ford
01-18-2017, 04:44 PM
with the power this thing could make it will be a wheels up car for sure. We are thinking between 3 to 4 hp per cube... so this thing should be stupid.:eek:...Rich


Dam that's what I want to build! Maybe some day when I retire lol. Good luck and hope to see it some time

pro street rich
01-18-2017, 06:39 PM
well I will tell you what... with everything that came out of this car there is a lot more weight then anyone has been saying.. Those struts are heavy as well as the upper control arms.. now add to that the sway bar and all the other stuff?? I will try to weight everything but it is HEAVY.. Those stock brake rotors are also on the fat side, as are the other parts.. I think we all will be surprised by the total.....will get the scale going sat so stay tuned....Rich

pro street rich
01-21-2017, 02:31 PM
well here is the total from the scale today.. 340 lbs for all the stuff that came off today. that is the "K" the sway bars springs and shocks as well as the brake rotors not the cal's .. That is a lot of weight... Rich

pro street rich
01-21-2017, 02:49 PM
6666566666

davec73
01-21-2017, 06:06 PM
Looks really nice Rich! I'm not having very good luck with mine. The front tire is pushed back toward the rear of the fender (

davec73
01-21-2017, 07:31 PM
Looks really nice Rich! I'm not having very good luck with mine. The front tire is pushed back toward the rear of the fender (

S4gunn
01-22-2017, 03:48 AM
66666

Rich:
Whoa. Your picture is fascinating here and I had to go back into the thread and re-read a little more about your plans.
if I am interpreting your implementation right, you are essentially removing the UCA/Spindle and replacing it with a coilover setup and your own custom spindle (or maybe its a mustang derivative - I'm not enough of a ford nerd to tell) bolted to the base of the coilover where it mees the AJE lower control arm, right?

Doesn't this change up the front end's suspension geometry pretty dramatically?
As the front end is compressed and the spindle moves upward, what prevents the camber from going negative?
With the stock spindle/UCA setup, doesn't the UCA resist the top of the spindle from going inward (towards the engine) as the spindle itself moves in an upward arc?
Please LMK if I'm missing something here.

-g

pro street rich
01-22-2017, 11:15 AM
the upper control arm is mounted in the same location as stock. The strut goes into a heim joint setup so it does have some movement. I will try to get more pic's posted for you....Rich

pro street rich
01-22-2017, 11:27 AM
There was a question about these bolts coming loose after a while.. When I dropped the old one down I looked at the bolts before I cleaned them for reinstall. You can see the lock tight on them, so like I said before, you MUST use lock tight when doing this upgrade. Also make sure you use cleaner as well so you get a good clean bond on both the bolts and the frame of the car.....Rich:D

fastsc92
01-22-2017, 12:44 PM
too late now, but I'd love to know what the strut upgrade weighs (coil over, spring, spindle, camber plate), so that others can judge if the weight savings is worth their $1300 price tag. Based on info from others, looks like the AJE setup saves about 30lbs but that's before the strut conversion.

Are the coil overs adjustable? If so, single or double adjustable?

Looking great!!

pro street rich
01-22-2017, 01:52 PM
too late now, but I'd love to know what the strut upgrade weighs (coil over, spring, spindle, camber plate), so that others can judge if the weight savings is worth their $1300 price tag. Based on info from others, looks like the AJE setup saves about 30lbs but that's before the strut conversion.

Are the coil overs adjustable? If so, single or double adjustable?

Looking great!!

the coil's are two pounds each.. the upper a arms are 4.2 lbs each, the spindle/strut are 8 lobs each. they are double adjust hope that helps you.. also you can put bigger brakes on this set up as well.. ..Rich

NASTY V6
01-22-2017, 03:12 PM
Pictures showing the upper control arm mounting.
66669

66671

66672

S4gunn
01-23-2017, 01:50 AM
Pictures showing the upper control arm mounting.
66669

66671

66672

This is fascinating. I'm trying to imagine this in my mind.
When the car's weight is on the suspension in a stock setup, the body is pushing down on the LCA and even when the suspension is weighed down, the spindle maintains the same camber set by the LCA throughout its range of movement since the spindle is held by the UCA.

If I'm seeing this correctly, the top of the coilover setup is at the end of the UCA in this new setup.

Q: At rest (weight of the car resting on the shock), what is preventing the UCA from being slammed up against the top of the fender well?
Q: Under spring compression (say at the bottom of a hill), the UCA will still stay in that same position, right? In that scenario, the camber should go (slightly) negative because the spring is being shortened/compressed in and the spindle is in a rigid relationship at the bottom of the coilover assembly, right?

-g

pro street rich
01-23-2017, 08:54 AM
This is fascinating. I'm trying to imagine this in my mind.
When the car's weight is on the suspension in a stock setup, the body is pushing down on the LCA and even when the suspension is weighed down, the spindle maintains the same camber set by the LCA throughout its range of movement since the spindle is held by the UCA.

If I'm seeing this correctly, the top of the coilover setup is at the end of the UCA in this new setup.

Q: At rest (weight of the car resting on the shock), what is preventing the UCA from being slammed up against the top of the fender well?
Q: Under spring compression (say at the bottom of a hill), the UCA will still stay in that same position, right? In that scenario, the camber should go (slightly) negative because the spring is being shortened/compressed in and the spindle is in a rigid relationship at the bottom of the coilover assembly, right?

-g

The upper is mounted to the bottom of the stock location, hence it does not move at all. All the movement will be from the lower and the strut. The upper is fixed in place.. This setup is more for drag racing then for road racing.. I would not do this setup if I was building a canyon racer, rather this is for drag and some street use.. I hope that clears up your questions.. My new chrome rack should be here by wed so I can add this to the mix and then put it on the ground and check ride height.....Rich

S4gunn
01-23-2017, 11:11 AM
The upper is mounted to the bottom of the stock location, hence it does not move at all. All the movement will be from the lower and the strut. The upper is fixed in place.. This setup is more for drag racing then for road racing.. I would not do this setup if I was building a canyon racer, rather this is for drag and some street use.. I hope that clears up your questions.. My new chrome rack should be here by wed so I can add this to the mix and then put it on the ground and check ride height.....Rich

... and that was the last piece of the picture i was missing. Thx.
For you, reducing overall weight matters more than anything else, right?

In the rear, wouldn't going with a solid axle setup help with traction? Have you done this already?
-g

pro street rich
01-23-2017, 11:39 AM
... and that was the last piece of the picture i was missing. Thx.
For you, reducing overall weight matters more than anything else, right?

In the rear, wouldn't going with a solid axle setup help with traction? Have you done this already?
-g

I have had good luck with the irs so far but this car is going to get a solid rear as it will need it to live. I don't think there will be any weight saving on the rear as it will get a back half setup with a 9" and 35 spline axles as well as a locker.. so this will add weight rather than loose on that end...Rich

fastsc92
01-23-2017, 11:52 AM
really interesting setup. Certainly not what I imagined. I envisioned it being a true strut assembly, where there would be a top-mount in the factory location and the upper arm would be removed completely. So you're saying that the upper arm is fixed in position and cannot rotate? And it there solely for the purpose of having a remote location for the top of the shock to mount to?

pro street rich
01-23-2017, 12:50 PM
really interesting setup. Certainly not what I imagined. I envisioned it being a true strut assembly, where there would be a top-mount in the factory location and the upper arm would be removed completely. So you're saying that the upper arm is fixed in position and cannot rotate? And it there solely for the purpose of having a remote location for the top of the shock to mount to?
Yes and no,,... I know what you are saying but it does have some movement.. The strut goes into a heim type setup and it does move some. The upper control arm is fixed but the center does move to keep the strut from binding up as everything moves. The big thing about this setup is the weight saving I got out of this setup....Rich

fastsc92
01-23-2017, 02:54 PM
s. The big thing about this setup is the weight saving I got out of this setup....Rich

This is my biggest draw as well. I've been running my version of K-member, with good weight savings...about 21lb's. Not as much as the AJE setup, but i'm also able to retain the factory LCA and Strut rod (for better or worse). What's attractive to me is the savings of weight from the removal of the cast knuckle and heavy factory-style shock.

I had plans of making a coil-cover setup in a similar manner to what Bill @ SCP is selling, but with a double-adjustable version and a little more focused on straightline performance. However, once you figure in shocks ($250ea min) and springs ($150/set), I'm halfway to the cost of the strut conversion, but still have to fabricate and won't get the same weight savings as you're seeing.

If the setup you have is truly a dual adjustable for rebound and compression separately, then this is something i'm very interested in.

Keep us updated!

S4gunn
01-23-2017, 03:40 PM
This is my biggest draw as well. I've been running my version of K-member, with good weight savings...about 21lb's. Not as much as the AJE setup, but i'm also able to retain the factory LCA and Strut rod (for better or worse). What's attractive to me is the savings of weight from the removal of the cast knuckle and heavy factory-style shock.

I had plans of making a coil-cover setup in a similar manner to what Bill @ SCP is selling, but with a double-adjustable version and a little more focused on straightline performance. However, once you figure in shocks ($250ea min) and springs ($150/set), I'm halfway to the cost of the strut conversion, but still have to fabricate and won't get the same weight savings as you're seeing.

If the setup you have is truly a dual adjustable for rebound and compression separately, then this is something i'm very interested in.

Keep us updated!
1) It all depends on what you are optimizing your toy for (unless you are a getaway car driver, anyone willing to put $$$ into suspension work a chassis worth $ is doing it as a toy vs a practical car). I recently finished redoing the front end of my car for road course racing with Bilstein inserts from a Mitsu 3000GT. For me, keeping the stock geometry makes but gaining a much stiffer dampening system up front is worth more than shedding a few pounds of semi-unsprung weight (hence my questions). I still love reading about other ways to skin the same cat for different purposes (you make wallets, I make hats) and a totally see the value of replacing the front spindles with a lighter weight unit.

2) I do think your estimate is a bit overblown though on coilover conversion costs though (aka duplicating what SCP sells). All I had to do was lathe down the inserts and fabricate a pair of sleeve nuts (vs fabricating brackets).
http://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspension/178561-s4gunns-tbird-front-suspension-options-summary-bilstein-insert-diy.html

While the QA1 single adjustable shocks are $250/pair shocks, matching 650LB springs from QA1 are <$30 each vs $150 as quoted. You'll be spending time/money adapting this to a car but not serious $$$$.
http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/10-650/10002/-1


---
Back to the question about saving weight on the front end:

Q: I believe I see where the tie rods would attach to the spindle so you can actually steer but with this tubular front LCA setup, is front caster adjustable or is that fixed by the forwardmost part of the "V" shaped tubular LCA. On the stock setup, caster is dialed in by the strut rod brace.


Q2: While Front Toe is probably the most critical front alignment adjustment for a drag racing vehicle (to keep the car aimed in the right direction), how important in your experience is front caster for your application (drag racing)?
This article says it helps with self steering; it also comments that having some negative camber will be helpful as that would exhibit better drive characteristics. if I get things correctly, you'll get max negative camber under compression which during a drag race would be when you brake, right? That's probably a good thing.
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/01/15/steering-straight-inside-story-wheel-alignments/

Having not really ever drag raced though (I think I took my DD -- a honda accord -- to a qtr mile track once in college for giggles), when does stuff get most scary during the 1/4 mi: at launch or during braking?

pro street rich
01-23-2017, 05:01 PM
you ask which is better or worse.. Each one can be a hand full.. If you make a lot of power and spin the wheels you can have it get away from you. this is true as well as you go down the track and you are making a lot of power.. the car can and does go sideways and that is never fun... Now when you get to the end of the run you are at a faster speed so everything gets added 1000% if you get loose.. I have been loose at the big end and it is not fun... you may need a new pair of panties when you get out of the car..
So to answer you they are both scary, I think the big end is more so than the starting line, but that is me.....Rich

neverfastenough
01-23-2017, 05:37 PM
It sounds like you're building a car that's gonna see some big end speed:D

pro street rich
01-23-2017, 08:26 PM
It sounds like you're building a car that's gonna see some big end speed:D

Just want to be ready to spank Kurt K if I get next to him at the next shoot out??:eek: or maybe my own son who has a fast car as well.. lol.:D. no really I am trying a couple of new ideas to see if they will pan out here. Got to see how things come together and be ready for them......Rich:confused:

ScrapSC
01-24-2017, 12:59 PM
Ole Kurt K and his single intercooler!!! :D:D:D

pro street rich
01-24-2017, 02:00 PM
Ole Kurt K and his single intercooler!!! :D:D:D

I think if you take that car apart you will find a lot of other things that no one knows about... Got to give him credit, he does have not only a fast car, BUT something that you can drive all over the place.. He has done the power tour a bunch of times and always drives it home at the end.. I can't say that I would have something that could do that....Rich

Kurt K
01-24-2017, 08:03 PM
I think if you take that car apart you will find a lot of other things that no one knows about... Got to give him credit, he does have not only a fast car, BUT something that you can drive all over the place.. He has done the power tour a bunch of times and always drives it home at the end.. I can't say that I would have something that could do that....Rich
Thanks for the props. There are no secrets in my combo. Everything just works well together. Nothing is likely to change with it again this year....too many family activities.

I'm looking forward to seeing what your car will do if you can keep it together.

pro street rich
01-24-2017, 08:21 PM
Thanks for the props. There are no secrets in my combo. Everything just works well together. Nothing is likely to change with it again this year....too many family activities.

I'm looking forward to seeing what your car will do if you can keep it together.

The kids got me lots of gum this year so I should be able to stick everything back together if need be.. You got to first get past Scott, then you can worry about my hot rod.....lol....Rich P.S. I have dropped more than 800 lbs already so that is almost a second off my time in itself....:D:eek:

NASTY V6
01-24-2017, 10:31 PM
Picture of the rack

66677

pro street rich
01-24-2017, 11:07 PM
Picture of the rack

66677

This is the replacement rack for this car. As you can see there is some chrome on it. So it does look better than the stocker and does not weight anything like the stocker. I will get it in the car tomorrow and see how it all fits....Rich

Kurt K
01-25-2017, 11:22 AM
The kids got me lots of gum this year so I should be able to stick everything back together if need be.. You got to first get past Scott, then you can worry about my hot rod.....lol....Rich P.S. I have dropped more than 800 lbs already so that is almost a second off my time in itself....:D:eek:I don't expect that you will be in the same class with me.

ScrapSC
01-25-2017, 01:00 PM
I think if you take that car apart you will find a lot of other things that no one knows about... Got to give him credit, he does have not only a fast car, BUT something that you can drive all over the place.. He has done the power tour a bunch of times and always drives it home at the end.. I can't say that I would have something that could do that....Rich

Just a conversation I had with Kurt about his stock single intercooler with his setup and how he had been badgered to change it. Like he said, "It works."

no164ford
03-26-2017, 08:39 PM
Figured I would add some more weight details to this thread. I will add to this as I gather more data. I am getting my weights from a older USPS scale that I have.


Stock 93+ spindles with hubs and sway bar end links both are just under 38 lbs.

2-2000 Mustang PBR calipers/brackets pads and bolts and 10.6" rotors just over 46 lbs.

Both front struts with 1-1/2 lowering springs and both upper control arms 62 lbs even.