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wingzeroac195
03-04-2017, 08:01 PM
OK, need the experts here. 2 days ago I put gas in the Thunderbird and drove it around, the next day the car started fine, but as soon I left the house and went from 1st, 2nd, 3rd, the car lost power and stalled. tried to start it and no luck, can hear the pump but nothing, after 10 min sitting, I tried and the car started, but it develop a very loud hesitation (like an old engine sound) drove it to my friends house 2.5Miles away and everytime I accelerate it will lack of power (like driving and you press the brake hard, no power either) and some fuel smell coming from where the fuel filter is (2 weeks ago I replaced it), after checking all wires, replacing the fuel filter again, the fuel pressure regulator, the DIS, the ignition coil, the Map and MAF sensor, the cam position sensor, O2 sensors, put some seam foam in the gas (thought it may be bad gas), still have the hesitation and sounds like a old car but very little now when I drive and specially when I accelerate(you have to sit inside to hear it) but the engine shaking still there ( is not that crazy shaking but noticeable). I disconnected the IAC and the TPS while running and there was not changes in the engine idle, also the MAP(the one by the air filter) and the MAF and no changes. NO CEL at all. today I change the spark plugs, they were fine. I also replace the IRCM and nothing. The car has full power again and drives, sometimes when the RPM drops, it sometimes drops too low below 400rpm but it goes back up. the car starts right away. I have to change my power steering pump because is acting up, but that is been a long time issue. I put fresh gas now and no difference. I looked at the engine mount and tranny and they seen good, the oil pan is not sitting on the frame. also I plugged to a code reader and code 543 came on but like I said no cel at all. so I do not know what is going on!!!!

Please, Please help

potshotscott
03-04-2017, 09:52 PM
Check your harmonic balancer. This description sounds VERY close to what I experienced when the timing ring on my stock balancer separated from the inner ring.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136053-Help-engine-makes-no-power

Tim Groth
03-04-2017, 09:55 PM
I'll second that, sounds like your balancer came apart. Can get the replacement powerbond unit from O'Reillys for 90$.

-Tim

wingzeroac195
03-04-2017, 10:15 PM
so you saying that my harmonic balancer came apart? the wheel is not wobbling or anything, but that will make the engine shake?

potshotscott
03-04-2017, 10:23 PM
If the timing ring breaks loose then the engine timing gets HOSED. Mine "ran" like complete trash much like yours did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUxj3pTnlkg

gbautotech
03-04-2017, 10:34 PM
It is very hard to understand what you are saying. I am A master certified tech. It sounds like what you are saying is you are having running issues and breaking issues. Is this true?

wingzeroac195
03-04-2017, 10:35 PM
this will cause all that? I guess just pull the crank shaft pulley and replace the balancer? that will also make it stall that first time?

wingzeroac195
03-04-2017, 10:41 PM
It is very hard to understand what you are saying. I am A master certified tech. It sounds like what you are saying is you are having running issues and breaking issues. Is this true?

no braking issues at all just the running

wingzeroac195
03-04-2017, 10:48 PM
It is very hard to understand what you are saying. I am A master certified tech. It sounds like what you are saying is you are having running issues and breaking issues. Is this true?

2 days ago I put gas in the Thunderbird and drove it around. the next day the car started fine, but as soon I left the house took off the car lost power and stalled. tried to start it and no luck, can hear the pump but nothing, after 10 min sitting, I tried and the car started, but it develop a very loud hesitation (like an old engine sound).
Drove it to my friends house 2.5Miles away and everytime I accelerate it will lack of power , like something holding the car. and sometimes I smell fuel coming from where the fuel filter is (2 weeks ago I replaced it),
I replace yesterday:
fuel filter
fuel pressure reg
DIS
ICRM
MAP, MAF
Ignition coil, spark plugs
02 sensors
cam sensor

I disconnected the IACV and the TPS while running and there were not changes in the engine idle, also the MAP(the one by the air filter) and the MAF and no changes.
NO CEL at all.
Today The car has full power again and drives, but sometimes when the RPM drops after pressing clutch, it sometimes drops too low below 400rpm but it goes back up.
the car starts normally now.
I have to change my power steering pump because is acting up, but that is been a long time issue.
I put fresh gas today and no difference.
I looked at the engine mount and tranny and they seen good, the oil pan is not sitting on the frame.
also I plugged to a code reader and code 543 came on but like I said no cel at all.
or I can call you 7573272133

wingzeroac195
03-04-2017, 11:43 PM
I will check the Harmonic balance and give an update

wingzeroac195
03-05-2017, 11:52 AM
Dont see any damage, or broken parts or woobling

wingzeroac195
03-05-2017, 11:55 AM
Dont see any damage

nickleman60
03-05-2017, 12:27 PM
Dont see any damage

Not much you can tell from that pic, all you're looking at is the outer ring.

Tim Groth
03-05-2017, 02:11 PM
I've had a few balancer failures and what you describe sounds just like a balancer failure. Check to see if your bolt is still there as well.

Also the power bond unit is now available so no need to drop BHJ kind of money $90 and you'll be riding again.

-Tim

sam jones
03-05-2017, 05:48 PM
Good afternoon


I would check the following:

- Remove the crank pulley. Pull/push on the outer ring of the balancer. If it moves even slightly the balancer must be replaced.

- Inspect the bonded rubber for excessive cranking or missing material.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjegfbRqcDSAhUIqlQKHUCUA30QFghJMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.daycoproducts.com%2Finspectin g-and-replacing-harmonic-balancers&usg=AFQjCNFddtxMPegNrWgf7Uy-X3_UJuDQIw&sig2=X3xZdhTs1dtU9I4O5DYpeg

- From the picture of the balancer it appears the middle of the vane has a "witness mark" where it could be striking the crank shaft sensor. Check all the vanes for the same defect.

- Inspect the accessory drive belt for fraying at the edges.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjegfbRqcDSAhUIqlQKHUCUA30QFghXMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.underhoodservice.com%2Fharmon ic-dampeners-fail-look%2F&usg=AFQjCNEGVPJIqmHamQ2xKniK_orlRgFXAQ&sig2=o21uim2JgDwRenI3soG_Kw

- Check the clearance between the crank sensor, cam sensor harness and the supercharger belt.


Good Luck.

TbirdSCFan
03-05-2017, 06:24 PM
Dont see any damage
That looks like a BHJ balancer. There would be no outer ring that would separate. However, the score marks look troubling. Like its scraping against the sensor. :eek: You should probably adjust that so that the vane passes between the sensor gap properly. At this point, you probably need to replace the sensor also.

Interesting also is the 543 = Fuel pump circuit failure.
That might explain the trouble as well.

KMT
03-05-2017, 08:33 PM
When you shut off the engine, and let it sit for about 15 minutes, and press the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, is there still fuel pressure there?

wingzeroac195
03-05-2017, 10:09 PM
I did, but just alittle, I believe is bad gas, a lot of condensation coming from the pipes, also the cramshaft has a little woobling, I check the but and all but one is tied, the other one cannot be screw and tie. I will go buy a new harmonic balancer and see what happens

wingzeroac195
03-05-2017, 10:12 PM
Not much you can tell from that pic, all you're looking at is the outer ring.

yeah I didnt want to remove it, but one bolt is stripped and I believe I should change it

wingzeroac195
03-05-2017, 10:13 PM
That looks like a BHJ balancer. There would be no outer ring that would separate. However, the score marks look troubling. Like its scraping against the sensor. :eek: You should probably adjust that so that the vane passes between the sensor gap properly. At this point, you probably need to replace the sensor also.

Interesting also is the 543 = Fuel pump circuit failure.
That might explain the trouble as well.

I will do that, thank you

Tim Groth
03-07-2017, 11:01 AM
I know someone mentioned it looks like you have a BHJ...I would tend to disagree since the BHJ units didn't have drilled balancing holes. I'd stay you still have the stock balancer.

Here's what happens to the OE units over time.. most likely what you have happening.

https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/content/images/thumbs/0000849_bhj-harmonic-balancer-for-89-93-scxr7.jpg

Replace the balancer and crank sensor while at it - Probably be $150 total expense but once it's done you'll be good to ride for a while.

-Tim

wingzeroac195
03-07-2017, 06:24 PM
I know someone mentioned it looks like you have a BHJ...I would tend to disagree since the BHJ units didn't have drilled balancing holes. I'd stay you still have the stock balancer.

Here's what happens to the OE units over time.. most likely what you have happening.

https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/content/images/thumbs/0000849_bhj-harmonic-balancer-for-89-93-scxr7.jpg

Replace the balancer and crank sensor while at it - Probably be $150 total expense but once it's done you'll be good to ride for a while.

-Tim

Just bought the balancer, powerbond brand, i will try this weekend to install it if weather permit, the crank sensor i will replace it too

JonS
03-07-2017, 08:12 PM
Just bought the balancer, powerbond brand, i will try this weekend to install it if weather permit, the crank sensor i will replace it too

Maybe I can come watch and learn before I do mine. I can't believe you replaced all those parts in I two weeks! You work fast

wingzeroac195
03-12-2017, 10:49 PM
Ok everyone, so I replaced the harmony balancer and the crankshaft position sensor, it helped the pinging BUT the vibration still there, I mean what else it could be? MAF, MAP, cam position, crank position, fuel pressure reg, fuel filter, balancer, all replaced! what is making this engine vibrate in idle or when driving! I feel it on the car and on the shifter, it has plenty of power, starts right away, no CEL. what else it could be???, is not the mounts, is actually the engine...it all started after that day while driving, the car lost power and stalled, and after 10min of letting it rest, it started back again and now has this issue.

sam jones
03-13-2017, 01:12 AM
Good evening





Congratulations on the harmonic balancer and crank sensor installation. One issue resolved.


Have you scan the engine for codes?


What is the idle vacuum? Less that @ 15 is a sure sign of a vacuum leak with a higher than normal idle and shaking. Check the charcoal canister purge solenoid valve rubber hose for damage.

Check for broken cracked temperature control vacuum plastic hose (passenger side of fire wall).

Visually inspect the spark plug wires. Check wire ohms reading and damage boot where it could be rubbing against the exhaust manifold stud and or an obstruction.

Ohms check the coil pack module (use a Haynes Maintenance Manual). Is the module within limits?


With the engine running check the exhaust at the manifold flange, oxygen sensor "bung" and welding at the catalytic converter for leaks. If you have access to a scanner check live data on sensors.

Check for engine piston ring (s) blow-by.

Check the EGR (if equipped) for cracked supply tube and or damage EGR transducer (gray) rubber hose.


I would check the transmission next.


For automatic transmission check all four flex plate to torque converter nuts for torque. Check for visible cracks and a possible stripped torque converter stud. Take a sample of ATF from the torque converter drain plug. Metal contamination and or dark brown to black ATF would indication radiator (cooler) and transmission inspection.

For manual transmission (with removing) check the flywheel ring for damaged and or missing "teeth". Rotate the engine. Will require the starter to be removed. Check the master reservoir for low servicing in conjunction with slave cylinder/throw out bearing (what can be seen) for clutch fluid leakage. Leakage would require the transmission to be remove and an inspection of the flywheel, slave cylinder and clutch assembly.

Good Luck

wingzeroac195
03-13-2017, 05:19 PM
thank you Sam. Well today I removed the IACV and cleaned it, it was pretty good to start with, put it all back on and ran the car, still the same vibration and pinging but very little. I disconnected the TPS and Cel came on and the engine rev higher, then I disconnected the iacv and Cel came on and engine changed idle, but then I disconnected the MAf sensor and no changes, the Cel came on but no changes. now I have all this issues with NO CEL at all. I noticed that the smog from the tailpipes is pulsating and is not white but steam, no smell to coolant or oil, maybe because is cold. power is good so far. I plug the code reader and when I started the car and ran the code reader the engine rev higher and came out cyl 6, and code 238.but no code 543. check for vacuum leaks and not at all

sam jones
03-13-2017, 07:05 PM
Good afternoon

Code 238 is unknown to me.


Code 328: EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected.

TbirdSCFan
03-14-2017, 04:38 AM
I plug the code reader and when I started the car and ran the code reader the engine rev higher and came out cyl 6, and code 238.but no code 543. check for vacuum leaks and not at all Did you run the KOER cylinder balance test? You'll have to read up a bit on how to do it, but its a way to isolate plug+injector problems.

wingzeroac195
03-14-2017, 05:07 PM
sorry, it was code 538 Insufficient change in RPM, and when i did the cylinder test it came out 1-3-6, I'm really do not know if I did it right, then came out 111, 129, 167, 225. I'm about to give up and take it to the ford dealer

potshotscott
03-14-2017, 07:36 PM
Don't take it to the dealer - they won't know what to do with it and whatever parts they replace will be 3x what you can buy them for on RockAuto or other stores.

wingzeroac195
03-14-2017, 07:49 PM
I know but i dont know what else to check! I was thinking on replacing the injectors but i dont know what cause this issue in the first place.

TBirdJKC
03-14-2017, 10:00 PM
Don't take it to the dealer - they won't know what to do with it and whatever parts they replace will be 3x what you can buy them for on RockAuto or other stores.

If they can even track down any motorcraft parts anymore.

wingzeroac195
03-14-2017, 10:21 PM
so what should I do guys?

sam jones
03-14-2017, 11:23 PM
Good evening


It looks as if the cylinder balance test was not accomplished. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi7gtyYtdfSAhXnxlQKHRR0D-8QFggaMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.corral.net%2Ftech%2Fmaintenan ce%2Feecivtest-balance.html&usg=AFQjCNHrknXYS8gIJ3c6rF-RR1Wg7FQkYg&sig2=kF5zBjcaMsJj93-rfdcOFQ


Check out the attached videos. Try the test again.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IYSGdroCuo

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi7gtyYtdfSAhXnxlQKHRR0D-8QtwIIIDAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DjV jvgnLUBzE&usg=AFQjCNEtKOwvIAZyj7rfL0La2U5O7AqUJw&sig2=rlliPclpiZ9leECG3tZkNQ


The last codes are as follows:

136- Heat Oxygen sensor #2 always lean


Your second test codes are as follows:

111- System Pass.

129- Insufficient Mass Air Flow (MAP) change during Dynamic Response Test.

167- Insufficient Throttle Position change during Dynamic Response Test.

225- Knock not sensed during Dynamic Response Test.



Connect a fuel pressure gauge test and check for pressure limits. For extra insurance I use a mechanic stethoscope and listen to each injector while running. Any significant change suspect injector.

Did you ohms check the ignition coil pack?

Get a Ford EEC IV OBD 1 scanner and check live data. This would be extremely helpful in your situation.


It does not take much contamination to clog a fuel injector(s). If the car has not run for an extensive period of time the gas will go bad. If gas is of questionable quality. If the injector was dropped on the floor. If the fuel injector pintle is damaged. Original equip high mileage fuel injectors do fail although it is a testament to Ford and Bosh they are dependable past 180K. Did you try a good fuel system cleaner? When I recover/restore a car that has not been run for a significant amount of time I use Berryman's Total Fuel System Cleaner and have a couple of fuel filter standing by. Very strong stuff.

Don't give up.


Good Luck.

wingzeroac195
03-15-2017, 04:43 PM
Well i did the test and came up 538 for code and for the cylinder it came out 10, i checked the injectors with that thing to hear them working and yes they are, tick-tick noise

sam jones
03-15-2017, 08:38 PM
Good afternoon


Check the # 1 fuel injector connector. Make sure it is securely connected.

Ohms check #1 and #2 fuel injector @ 13.5 to 19 ohms. If # 1 ohms significantly higher or lower than # 2 #1 injector is bad.



Remove # 1 spark plug wire and plug. Inspect both for physical damage. Ohms check the ignition coil and spark wire for resistance. Replace any faulty/damage parts.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwieiN384dnSAhVIi1QKHaL4DpQQtwIIJTAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dp8 _GWt0ZK_g&usg=AFQjCNE4IBq0vXw1K-7t-veG9k9lWVJJmA&sig2=8RlGF0eCMxIZCjFnx-QIdw



If no defects found install do the following:


Swap # 1 & # 2 spark plug and wire.

Do the cylinder balance test again. If the test code is now 20 the issue is with the plug/wire.


If the test code is 10 replace #1 injector.



Good Luck.

potshotscott
03-15-2017, 10:23 PM
What does the spark plug for the #1 plug look like? I've had a similar situation where the injector was always on. The signal pin was shorted to ground inside the PCM. Not saying this is your problem but my injector for that cylinder Ohm'd out fine.

wingzeroac195
03-16-2017, 06:00 PM
Good afternoon


Check the # 1 fuel injector connector. Make sure it is securely connected.

Ohms check #1 and #2 fuel injector @ 13.5 to 19 ohms. If # 1 ohms significantly higher or lower than # 2 #1 injector is bad.



Remove # 1 spark plug wire and plug. Inspect both for physical damage. Ohms check the ignition coil and spark wire for resistance. Replace any faulty/damage parts.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwieiN384dnSAhVIi1QKHaL4DpQQtwIIJTAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dp8 _GWt0ZK_g&usg=AFQjCNE4IBq0vXw1K-7t-veG9k9lWVJJmA&sig2=8RlGF0eCMxIZCjFnx-QIdw



If no defects found install do the following:


Swap # 1 & # 2 spark plug and wire.

Do the cylinder balance test again. If the test code is now 20 the issue is with the plug/wire.


If the test code is 10 replace #1 injector.



Good Luck.

All the injectors tested at 15.2ohm, and i just realized that when idle the rpm drops to 500 and goes back up like every other minute.

sam jones
03-16-2017, 11:44 PM
Good evening


Did you re-accomplish the cylinder balance test? Do you still have the same code (10)?


Do you have access to an OBD I scanner with the Ford cable to read live data?

wingzeroac195
03-17-2017, 12:08 AM
Good evening


Did you re-accomplish the cylinder balance test? Do you still have the same code (10)?


Do you have access to an OBD I scanner with the Ford cable to read live data?


Thank you for all your help sam, No I do not have a scanner with live data. the next thing Im planning in doing is the spark plug and wires and see how that goes.
and I have not redo the balance test, but I will again with the way you told me to do it,

wingzeroac195
03-18-2017, 01:29 PM
This is the number one spark plug looked like when i removed it66874

wingzeroac195
03-18-2017, 01:48 PM
This is the number one spark plug looked like when i removed it66874j
Also the connector from the fire wall, the wire harness that carries all the wires for injectors, iacv, tps, was full off water, inside the connector. I trying to clean it but i dont know if the pcm got shorted

TbirdSCFan
03-18-2017, 03:29 PM
That doesn't inspire confidence. :eek: The rust color makes me wonder if thats from coolant and you know what that means.. head gaskets.
That one should at least be replaced as you have nothing to lose at this point. At this point, I'd pull the other plugs and compare also.

Water in the connectors could also cause the problems.

wingzeroac195
03-18-2017, 04:30 PM
That doesn't inspire confidence. :eek: The rust color makes me wonder if thats from coolant and you know what that means.. head gaskets.
That one should at least be replaced as you have nothing to lose at this point. At this point, I'd pull the other plugs and compare also.

Water in the connectors could also cause the problems.

The other plugs are not like that just that one, this is a new block that the dealer replaced according to the previous owner and paperwork/receipts. I pulled the pcm and got the number

potshotscott
03-18-2017, 05:10 PM
The injector harness is simple. 12V is felt on one pin and ground on the other. The ground is triggered by the PCM. The signal pin will be open when the car is off. The signal pin will be very difficult to read with a VOM. I suppose you could watch the wire with a oscilloscope. If the signal wire shows ground then it's shorted. If you pull the PCM and tjhe short goes away it's in the PCM. Given the rust color I think the injector is working normally. I'd be more concerned like the others around water damage or a popped head gasket.

wingzeroac195
03-18-2017, 07:01 PM
Now when i disconnected the pcm and plug it back again, i get a steady beep until i start the engine, why? Also while running i disconnected number 1 injector and nothing happened, unplug injector 2 and the engine stalled

sam jones
03-18-2017, 09:34 PM
Now when i disconnected the pcm and plug it back again, i get a steady beep until i start the engine, why?

Also the connector from the fire wall, the wire harness that carries all the wires for injectors, iacv, tps, was full off water, inside the connector. I trying to clean it but i dont know if the pcm got shorted

Good afternoon


I would recheck the PCM/Engine connectors at the fire wall first. Disconnect and inspect the pins for damage. Sometimes the weather seal prevent complete connection. When re-connected there will be a noticeable "click (s)".

Next check the PCM connector. Disconnect and inspect the pins for damage. Again the weather seal can prevent compete connection. Make sure the PCM ground is clean of corrosion and tight when installed.


As TBirdSCFan stated water in the connector/harness will cause problems. Use electrical cleaner and finally a silicone die-electric grease to provide protection.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwielIT1o-HSAhUI6mMKHcKJC4gQFgiRATAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nyelubricants.com%2Fsite%2Fge t_document.php%3Fid%3D3709&usg=AFQjCNEsAJU5hvKgATmUVp4TjMzdH3tlPw&sig2=YugZqd-_q7fYVJvhPA5WZA


Again I agree with TBirdSCFan on the spark plug issue. I would:

- Visually inspect and ohms check all of the spark plug wires and the ignition coil. Swap #1 & 2 wire. Replace plug. Start engine. If #1 continues to be the problem

Shut down engine.

- Remove plug and wire but leave connected to the ignition coil and find a good place to rest (cowl for example). Place a metal flat tip screwdriver blade next to the spark

plug Ground electrode and start engine. Observer the spark jump to the screwdriver. Listen to the # 1 injector with mechanic stethoscope. Shut down.

- Remove screwdriver @ 3" away from the spark plug. Start engine. If spark jumps to screwdriver and you hear clicking of the injector suspect the injector for internal filter clogged/failure and or weak electromagnet operation.

You have just eliminated the PCM, DIS, ignition coil, harness, spark plug and wire.


If spark does not jump to screwdriver, the problem is with the harness/ignition coil/PCM.



At idle check the recovery tank for constant stream of bubbles. If the system has been bleed before then this is a good visually sign that there is coolant leaking in the combustion/cylinder. You can do a block test for conformation.


Good Luck.

wingzeroac195
03-18-2017, 11:21 PM
Also the connector from the fire wall, the wire harness that carries all the wires for injectors, iacv, tps, was full off water, inside the connector. I trying to clean it but i dont know if the pcm got shorted

Good afternoon


I would recheck the PCM/Engine connectors at the fire wall first. Disconnect and inspect the pins for damage. Sometimes the weather seal prevent complete connection. When re-connected there will be a noticeable "click (s)".

Next check the PCM connector. Disconnect and inspect the pins for damage. Again the weather seal can prevent compete connection. Make sure the PCM ground is clean of corrosion and tight when installed.


As TBirdSCFan stated water in the connector/harness will cause problems. Use electrical cleaner and finally a silicone die-electric grease to provide protection.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwielIT1o-HSAhUI6mMKHcKJC4gQFgiRATAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nyelubricants.com%2Fsite%2Fge t_document.php%3Fid%3D3709&usg=AFQjCNEsAJU5hvKgATmUVp4TjMzdH3tlPw&sig2=YugZqd-_q7fYVJvhPA5WZA


Again I agree with TBirdSCFan on the spark plug issue. I would:

- Visually inspect and ohms check all of the spark plug wires and the ignition coil. Swap #1 & 2 wire. Replace plug. Start engine. If #1 continues to be the problem

Shut down engine.

- Remove plug and wire but leave connected to the ignition coil and find a good place to rest (cowl for example). Place a metal flat tip screwdriver blade next to the spark

plug Ground electrode and start engine. Observer the spark jump to the screwdriver. Listen to the # 1 injector with mechanic stethoscope. Shut down.

- Remove screwdriver @ 3" away from the spark plug. Start engine. If spark jumps to screwdriver and you hear clicking of the injector suspect the injector for internal filter clogged/failure and or weak electromagnet operation.

You have just eliminated the PCM, DIS, ignition coil, harness, spark plug and wire.


If spark does not jump to screwdriver, the problem is with the harness/ignition coil/PCM.



At idle check the recovery tank for constant stream of bubbles. If the system has been bleed before then this is a good visually sign that there is coolant leaking in the combustion/cylinder. You can do a block test for conformation.


Good Luck.

I replaced the wires, ignition coil and spark plugs, and like I said, I unplugged injector 1 while running and nothing happened, but when I unplugged injector 2 the engine stalled. I can hear the injector ticking but I believe is not working or is clog pretty good, I have another set of injectors, I will try to replace it tomorrow, but now when I turn my car on before crank the shine belt kicks in and then a solid beep after that, it doesn't go away until I actually crank the engine, why is that? it happen after I unplug all the wires and pcm, them I plugged them back again.

sam jones
03-18-2017, 11:52 PM
Good evening


Try this. At the engine harness connectors at the firewall disconnect one at a time. Key on engine off. I suspect that the large square connector is the issue. Inspect pins and weather seal. Inspect for corrosion/moisture. If you have a heat gun carefully use low heat to dry out moisture.

wingzeroac195
03-19-2017, 12:18 AM
Good evening


Try this. At the engine harness connectors at the firewall disconnect one at a time. Key on engine off. I suspect that the large square connector is the issue. Inspect pins and weather seal. Inspect for corrosion/moisture. If you have a heat gun carefully use low heat to dry out moisture.

I didn't check that one Sam, just the round on but I will tomorrow, THANK YOU and the OTHER GUYS for all your help so far, I will keep everyone posted

TbirdSCFan
03-19-2017, 11:37 PM
So this was a new engine from the dealership? Do you know how many miles it has on it? Is that the old plug you replaced, or the newer plug?

That plug shouldn't be rusty on the tip for any reason I can think of other than water.. Too rich should make it black, too lean should make it white. Rust is from coolant which means, unfortunately, head gaskets. If the dealership did the HG job, its a remote possiblity they didn't do it correctly. There is a kit that you can use to test for combustion fumes in the coolant which will let you know if thats the issue. Or look for bubbles. Or... put in a new plug, run it for a while, let it sit for a day or 2, and check it again.

In any regard, it sounds like you've found your problem cylinder.

TbirdSCFan
03-19-2017, 11:42 PM
now when I turn my car on before crank the shine belt kicks in and then a solid beep after that, it doesn't go away until I actually crank the engine, why is that? it happen after I unplug all the wires and pcm, them I plugged them back again. Its supposed to work that way. Its an annoyance to remind you that the key is in the run position, but the engine isn't being cranked or running.