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potshotscott
06-10-2017, 07:29 PM
Quick question for you experts. I have a heater motor that won't run because I was tired and stupid and melted something because I reversed the jumper cables one early morning on my 94 LX. Question is this - outside of the control panel in the cabin are the heater parts interchangeable? I have a 1990 LX 5.0 parts car and can rob anything for the 94 (heater related). Are the resistor packs/motor/control stuff all the same except for the climate control panel in the dash?

For added clarity the climate control system turns on and the panel moves temps up and down as well as the blend doors (you can hear the mild hiss noise as you cycle it). The blower does not run. I feel like I roached the motor or I melted the resistor pack. Thoughts from anyone who has experience with this??

sam jones
06-11-2017, 04:27 AM
Quick question for you experts. I have a heater motor that won't run because I was tired and stupid and melted something because I reversed the jumper cables one early morning on my 94 LX. Question is this - outside of the control panel in the cabin are the heater parts interchangeable? I have a 1990 LX 5.0 parts car and can rob anything for the 94 (heater related). Are the resistor packs/motor/control stuff all the same except for the climate control panel in the dash?

For added clarity the climate control system turns on and the panel moves temps up and down as well as the blend doors (you can hear the mild hiss noise as you cycle it). The blower does not run. I feel like I roached the motor or I melted the resistor pack. Thoughts from anyone who has experience with this??

Good morning


The problem is most likely between the blower resistor controller and the motor. Check the fuse first and then power to the motor. Collateral damage from faulty resistor, a damaged and or blower drawing too much amps would overheat climate control/fan connector(s) resulting in a non operating blower. 1989 -1997 blower motors are physically the same. The power connector to the blower is different. 1989 - 1993 is white and does not match with the black connector 1994 and up. I found this out when I replaced a 1989 blower with a 1997 salvage yard replacement. Solder the the black 1997 cable connector to the blower for the fix.


The blower motor resistor is different. 1989 - 1993 use the tried and true coil resistor for non numeric temperature control. 1994 - 1997 is the newer blower motor resistor controller unit for improved automatic control. The cross over year is the 1992 - 1993 climate control unit which is a combination of the manual and automated control functions. It does use the old coil resistor.



See attachments:


1994 - 1997

https://www.rockauto.com/info/41/700149_3__ra_p.jpg

https://www.rockauto.com/info/903/4P1581_C__ra_p.jpg


1989 - 1993

https://www.rockauto.com/info/52/35348LSID__ra_p.jpg

https://www.rockauto.com/info/48/E35Y19A706A-FRO__ra_p.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plyx0nCdvfs&t=2s


Good Luck.

KMT
06-11-2017, 11:01 AM
Based on the particular reason you're now having issues, I'd start by using an ohm meter to verify basic circuits, rather than treat it as a traditional component failure. Example is a resistor block where it's job is to deal with direct current loads vs. more fragile components such as fuses, low voltage circuits and/or aged connectors/wiring.

potshotscott
06-12-2017, 11:28 PM
Found the blown 30 Amp fuse next to the traditional fuse block. The EVTM showed it in a different place but I was able to trace large gauge wire to it. Heater working fine. Now onto airbag code 32 and a horn that doesn't work.

KMT
06-13-2017, 12:26 AM
If the 32 is honest, that would be the clockspring. Horn fail might be collateral damage.

Quik95SC
06-13-2017, 10:40 AM
If the 32 is honest, that would be the clockspring. Horn fail might be collateral damage.

Horn has to go through the same clock spring, just a different wire. Most get worn out and break the wires/ribbon cable.

I was able to re-solder my ribbon cable after carefully scraping the insulation from the wires, solder it and apply insulating material back over it. It has been working since.

Smitty

KMT
06-13-2017, 11:04 AM
Horn has to go through the same clock spring, just a different wire. Most get worn out and break the wires/ribbon cable.


Good info, thanks - note Scott's issues apparently started when someone had a jumper cable 'malfunction' - I'm sure normal wear didn't help, tho ;)

Ken

potshotscott
06-13-2017, 12:51 PM
I think I have two different issues. Not sure if they are related. I had the steering column completely out of the car recently when the connecting pin for the ignition movement came out. You know, the tilt wheel pin that allows the key to actuate the ignition switch. Anyway - I pulled the airbag out on the work bench as part of the job and I dropped it on the floor breaking the outer tab on the assembly. I zip tied it together when it went back on the wheel and as far as I know there are some shorting bars that are in there for electrical purposes. I might be missing the shorting bar. The airbag Ohms out at 1 Ohm when I meter it out of the car. I am going to disco the battery and see if the diagnostic unit drops the code. As for the horn I've still got access to the connector block there. The cruise control seems to work so maybe part of the clockspring is still in working condition?

I'd like to get the airbag fixed but to me its not a deal breaker - especially since the driver is like 5 foot 2 and sits VERY close to the wheel to reach the pedals anyway. I almost think its safer to prevent the airbag from deploying the instance that it's needed. She likely faces injury from the airbag deployment MORE than the collision itself. My daughter is important. The car not so much - especially since its got a L fender ding and some frick marks on various panels and pieces. It's a cheap LX and a daily driver with a squeeky 3rd gear and somewhat sloppy suspension.

Thanks for help all!

KMT
06-13-2017, 05:04 PM
had the steering column completely out of the car recently

Oh, yes, yet another recent event that could be a source of issues, for sure. If a reset doesn't clear the code, I'd want to swap in another clockspring assembly, but only when it meshes with your goals as stated, of course. As for collision risks, from what I've seen in the yards, the MN12 does a bang up job of protecting it's occupants, with or without airbags. I know airbags protected my daughter (5' 1") on at least one occasion, but that was with a slightly smaller vehicle, so, thanks for that.

Ken