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aroot1
08-06-2017, 01:58 PM
I know the general opinion is that the 11 ft-lb torque on intake is considered to be too little, leading to gasket failure. What is the "new" higher torque value recommended? 25# same as NA 3.8s ?

Thanks
Adam

KMT
08-06-2017, 02:10 PM
I know the general opinion is that the 11 ft-lb torque on intake is considered to be too little, leading to gasket failure. What is the "new" higher torque value recommended? 25# same as NA 3.8s ?

Thanks
Adam

I don't think it's the 11# so much as failing to do a followup re-torque soon after - suggest maybe 22# max, but only after you let the install sit overnite, and do a second/final re-torque. Might want to step thru and follow the pattern in the book...10#, then 15#, then 22#, then 22# again later, as an example.

TbirdSCFan
08-06-2017, 03:29 PM
I don't think it's the 11# so much as failing to do a followup re-torque soon after - suggest maybe 22# max, but only after you let the install sit overnite, and do a second/final re-torque. Might want to step thru and follow the pattern in the book...10#, then 15#, then 22#, then 22# again later, as an example. 22 is tops for sure. I stopped at 15-20. But yes, the best way is to step through the cross sequence as described. Shouldn't have any problems that way.

aroot1
08-06-2017, 03:47 PM
Absolutely on both the steps, and "pattern" (inside to out, cross corners). The retorqueing is something a couple buddies and I discussed as well. Like to do that after a couple heat cycles, just a real pain in the a$$ GETTING to the bolts to do so on these rigs. I am also rebuilding/replacing virtually ALL the front suspension, and removed some stuff just for hardware access. Had not thought of just TIME before retorque. I'll do suspension, and leave the blower and fuel rails off til that's done, then hit manifold and reassemble top end stuff.

Thanks

Adam