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Matt_aka_Dale
08-23-2017, 02:33 PM
I would like to know if there is anyone else able to rebuild an ABS pump motor? I currently only know of Jose in Texas. Also know I could probably rebuild it myself, but I'd rather not break it worse. Please let me know you or someone you know can do it. Email me.
johnsonmatt15@gmail.com

Matt_aka_Dale
08-28-2017, 11:16 AM
Well it looks like the brake system blew out. Looks like fluid is spraying out where the accumulator ball screws into the pump. I think it's swap time.

KMT
08-28-2017, 11:34 AM
That's just a $3 o-ring (must be brake fluid safe), 30 minutes time and some brake fluid to top off the reservoir.

But if you're thinking it's hinting at other issues, it might be worth a try in any case. I did write up on accumulator R & R if you need it.

Matt_aka_Dale
08-28-2017, 07:32 PM
See, I was thinking that could be the issue, but didn't seem right since it is actually quite new. Regardless I think the pump still needs rebuilding. It intermittently chirps

TbirdSCFan
08-28-2017, 11:45 PM
See, I was thinking that could be the issue, but didn't seem right since it is actually quite new. Regardless I think the pump still needs rebuilding. It intermittently chirps If you have the gumption, look up a compatible seal part number and rebuild yourself. The available seal isn't necessarily the preferred material, but its better than an old leaky, and according to the guy who used it, its held up well over a year now.. so whatever. It kind of comes do to not having a better choice. Form there, if your brushes have at least 50% service life left, and your thermal switch is intact, it should be good for a few more years. You'll need a good soldering iron to take the leads off..

Here's what it basically looks like:

67609

67610

Matt_aka_Dale
08-29-2017, 09:59 AM
Will I need any seals for the motor? I saw in a post there is a abs seal rebuild kit available for a Jaguar. Didn't see it on Amazon. I've seen some o-rings in EPDM on eBay.

KMT
08-29-2017, 10:10 AM
If yours is 'chirping', it might mean the windings are hitting the magnets and you'll need bushings too, and if it's that worn, the seal has suffered. And brushes...

Do you have a link for the jag kit? The seal someone sussed out was for a Honda. Search here - I remember seeing them on eBay, so they shouldn't be too hard to locate now, I think.

Are you sure the chirp isn't the groan a normal motor makes while it's running and building final pressure?

You might need to hold off until you get the entire unit out of the car so you can remove and disassemble the motor so you can see just what's wrong and if it can be saved, etc. If you want to shorten the process, perhaps you can locate a used motor and o'haul it first, so all you have to do it R & R the unit.

If you plan on replacing the accumulator, now's the time to start that hunt - check w/Victor at spinningwheels-sc.com

TbirdSCFan
08-29-2017, 12:52 PM
Here's a link to the thread (http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136849-Abs-pump-motor-FIXED!!!!!) with a part number for a compatible shaft seal. Its not EDPM material, but its cheap.

Matt_aka_Dale
08-29-2017, 05:28 PM
So far after doing a quick search, I was able to find a shaft seal, but not in the recommended EPDM. They come in rubber or nitrile.

Matt_aka_Dale
09-02-2017, 10:07 PM
I've decided to do the conventional brake swap. Can't figure out what is the better way to go about it. Use a '89 non SC booster or a '90 crown vic booster with a '90 master cylinder?

james5275
09-09-2017, 03:21 AM
Honda seal update,
Hello everyone, I've been busy as heck and distant from the boards, saw this thread and had to post. My motor seal is still holding up surprisingly. As mentioned in my original post, the car is not a daily driver, I've probably only put 500 miles on it this summer, but so far so good.

To the OP, if you change you mind and decide to rebuild your motor, send me a pm and I could walk you through the process or do it for you.

Best luck,
JJ

KMT
09-09-2017, 09:31 AM
My motor seal is still holding up surprisingly.J

Good info, thanks for the update.

Ken

Matt_aka_Dale
09-09-2017, 05:46 PM
I did end up digging into the motor. I had another motor and took the good parts from both and made one good motor. I reused one of the shaft seals that wasn't leaking(probably is now). I will say that the motor runs like a champ with no chirping. However it wasn't seeming to build up any sort of pressure in the system. The fluid level went down from the pump running but eventually stopped going down, but the motor continued to run.

So I gave up on messing with it and decided to go to a conventional braking system. I did try to bleed the brakes, but no luck. It's also inconvenient when you don't have a second person to help.

I still have the ABS unit, but I'm not sure if I want to keep messing with it.

TbirdSCFan
09-10-2017, 09:06 AM
The fluid level went down from the pump running but eventually stopped going down, but the motor continued to run. This is one of the frustrating parts of the process. What I do now is prime the pump by running the motor/pump from a 12volt power supply, directly to the motor connector, with the accumulator unattached. When I finally get fluid gurggleing out the opening, then I reattach the accum and install the whole unit in the car. I do all this on the work bench.

Some other things to do:
Check that your high pressure lines, and accumulator, are tight.. not gorilla, round-off-the-edges tight, but a bit more than snug. Also, pump the brake pedal a few times to see if it will prime the pump... let sit overnight, and try again. Also crack a rear bleeder valve and push 1/2 pint of fluid out the rear brake line. The whole concept is about getting fluid flowing from the reservoir, through the pump, and into the high pressure line.. key words.. flowing THROUGH. With the accum installed, there is a slight amount of back pressure which prevents this from happening. Also, the motor has to spin FAST enough to get the ball bearings in the pump, to seal against the race and then displace fluid.. not fast enough, they will just politely spin around doing nothing. Putting additional pressure on the supply side, by pressurizing the reservoir, can help with that. A redneck way to accomplish that... take off the cap and blow into it LOL..

When you finally hear the motor drop off in pitch and start to slow, you should be in business. :cool:

Matt_aka_Dale
09-10-2017, 09:33 PM
This is good information.. real good. I may give it one last chance and try tomorrow. Just because I now have another set of problems with non-ABS swap.

shephard7
09-11-2017, 08:10 AM
Good evening to all guys. This Digital Thermal Flow Switch can be helpful for you https://www.abestmeter.com/thermal-flow-switch/

Matt_aka_Dale
09-11-2017, 10:11 PM
Well looks like I'm using abs. Thanks to TbirdSCFan and his info, everything works great! Now I'm having trouble with my brake line flaring jobs. Found a leak at the junction block to the RR.

TbirdSCFan
09-11-2017, 11:39 PM
Well looks like I'm using abs. Thanks to TbirdSCFan and his info, everything works great! Now I'm having trouble with my brake line flaring jobs. Found a leak at the junction block to the RR. Great. Yeah, those are the tips I've worked out over the years. Glad to hear you got it working. :)