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dthompson
09-22-2017, 08:34 PM
I would like to introduce my new project for my 1989 SC 5spd. Currently my car has a perfectly good 4.2 engine with an MPX that makes over 380whp on pump gas. It won its dyno class (M90) at the 2016 shootout. Its running somewhere in the high 12s at the track, trapping ~107mph, and it probably should go mid 12s with a better driver. Itís a great car, and I enjoy driving it to work when the weather is nice, which is most of the year down here in NC. I have learned a tremendous amount from these forums and wrenching on this car over the past 5 years. The car is a blast to drive and is pretty clean for its age. However, as is often the case, I have been bitten by the horsepower bugÖ again.

I have been considering my options for a while now. Should I put a bigger supercharger on it? Should I go turbo? Should I swap the engine? If so, which engine? Iíll share a little bit about my decision making process and let you guys understand where I am coming from, even if you donít agree with it.

Bigger supercharger: These are somewhat hard to come by and usually cost in the $2-4k ball park from what I have seen over the years. Then there is the cost of fuel system upgrades. The cars that I have seen with the ARs and the Whipples seem to make in the 450-500 whp range. While this is impressive, I donít think this option is for me.

Turbo: I thought a long time about just putting a turbo on the current engine. I really like the idea of a turbo, making more power per PSI. This is a bit more expensive option but Iím not really sure how expensive. I would guess in the $6k range. Add another $2k if you want to upgrade the fuel system and convert to corn. Binks has shown that you can make over 700whp with a turbo on E85. Concerns about converting to corn, and the overall stress put on the motor to run at this level are holding me back from this option.

Engine swap: A V8 should be easier to make the kind of power I want. So which engine to swap? The 5.0 is the obvious choice, mainly because it fits. David Dalke going 11.7 on a stock 5.0 with a turbo is pretty awesome. But we all know the stock 5.0 is a time bomb near 500 hp. Looking at Dart blocks to counter act this problem would add at least $2k to the price. And I wouldnít put stock stuff in a Dart block, Iíd have to build 347, and it would end up being $10k knowing me. And really when you get down to buying Dart Block, you can build a 427 almost as cheap as a 347. So facing that decision, I started considering the production 351w. From what I can tell, the stock 351 block can survive in the 600-800 range. My research tells me it will fit, it will be a pain, but it will fit. Iím liking this option.

So what are my goals? Iíd like to make a 700 whp street car. Iíd like to build a turbo car. I need a project and I really enjoy wrenching. I have recently added a tig welder to my shop, so I would love to use that to fabricate some of my own stuff. I have always wanted a 408 or a 427 sbf, why? I donít know, I just like big small blocks. Whats the budget? Im going to say ~$10k, but thatís over a couple years and this project is likely going to evolve. I kind of have the idea that I would spend about the same as I did when I built the 4.2, but end up with 700whp instead of 400whp. I am going to do a better job on this project to save money where I can, and spend it where required. RequiredÖ thatís kind of funny when you have a perfectly good engine in your car.

How to get there? Here is the loose initial plan. I am going to start with a stock 5.8 from E-150 van, a junkyard motor that made about 210hp and 325ftlbs when newÖ not that different than what a 1989 SC makes. The first phase is to get it in the car and running. Add to that finding an intake/hood combination that will work. The second phase is to add a turbo and get that working on the stock motor (with some big ring gaps). The idea is to run low boost, to figure tuning and what not with the turbo. If this phase works well, then the car might stay this way for a while. The third phase, the engine would receive heads and a cam. By this point I would anticipate that it should be making in ~500 whp range at this point on pump gas. Once all that is figured out, the plan is to ďbuildĒ the 351 into a 408 or 427. And somewhere along the way, I will be selling my current motor, MPX , and miscellaneous parts to help offset the cost.

So there you have it. Project GFPÖ Glutton for Punishment. Iíll give DD credit on the project name. However, that phrase has been muttered a number of times over the past few years by me and my cousin as weíve wrenched on the SC. This isnít going to be easy. Not exactly cheap. But it should be a lot of fun and provide a good long term project for me and the SC.


And here we go....

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BLOWN38
09-22-2017, 10:29 PM
Sounds fun! I wanna do a 351 in my 5.0 car someday.

DrFishbone
09-25-2017, 01:10 PM
Cool, Derek :)

Sounds like we were on the same mental path this summer..lol.

Since I had a broken motor though, I chose to take the 3.8 further for now to get it back up and running. Glad I did, this time!

Be sure to post up your fabrication pictures...that's the real fun stuff, if you ask me. :)

davec73
09-25-2017, 09:01 PM
Awesome Derek! make I your own.

dthompson
09-30-2017, 09:56 PM
For the last week or so, I have begun the process of tearing the motor down. I didnít want to do this, but when I did a leak down test, 4 of the 8 cylinders were at 50% or worse. #1 cylinder was the worst, holding 20-40% (which is 60-80% leak). I got the head off and tore it down. The exhaust valves are worn and pitted. The valve seats and guides look ok on the head, but the seats have some slight pitting. I ordered one new exhaust valve and some lapping compound to see if the head was salvageable. I lapped both the intake and exhaust valve on #1 and the valve and seats look pretty good now. I will order the rest of the exhaust valves and continue this process. I didnít want to spend any money on these heads (the stock heads are very poor performing heads), but for the sake of the project, spending $50 buck on exhaust valves is a lot better than having to spend $2k on heads at this point. I will have to take the heads to a machinist to remove the front most intake manifold bolt on each side that broke off when I removed the intake. I was able to remove the broke exhaust bolt and a broken water pump stud. After removing the rotating assembly, I also found that it also needs new rod and main bearings. The crank could also use a quick polish, but it really looks pretty good all things considered. Time to order some parts and get the block all cleaned up.

89XR7TD
10-04-2017, 07:20 PM
Good luck with your new project buddy!!!

Will miss hanging out with ya this years Shootout man!

dthompson
10-04-2017, 09:33 PM
Thanks Tom I am going to miss you guys too. I hate to miss the shootout, but its probably for the best this time around. This year got messed up with the job situation. I hope a lot of guys set some new personal best at the track!

potshotscott
10-04-2017, 11:40 PM
Any pics of this work??? I'm interested in seeing the photos that go with the descriptions of wear, tear and damage.

dthompson
10-05-2017, 09:41 PM
Any pics of this work??? I'm interested in seeing the photos that go with the descriptions of wear, tear and damage.

I have not taken a lot of pictures of the tear down, because it is pretty nasty work, but since you asked :)

This is what the exhaust valves looked like...

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This is what the main bearings looked like...

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This is what the rod bearings looked like...

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The crank looks pretty good. It mic'd to 2.9995 on the mains journals and the rod journals were 2.3102/2.3105ish. So they were still in good shape. I am going to hit them with some 600/1200 grit just to remove the superficial stuff.

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potshotscott
10-06-2017, 01:40 AM
Cool - thanks!

Broncojohnny
10-06-2017, 10:47 AM
If you have a few hundred dollars in your budget you may consider trying to find some GT40 or GT40P heads rather than reworking those heads. They came on the explorer 5.0 engines and can be had for very cheap. It would be a lot of power for little money. If you get the GT40Ps you may need some work on the headers, as the spark plug angle is different on them.

dthompson
10-06-2017, 12:28 PM
If you have a few hundred dollars in your budget you may consider trying to find some GT40 or GT40P heads rather than reworking those heads.

I thought about that. However, these heads only needed $50 worth of valves and then lap them in. These heads will be replaced with aftermarket heads at some point. I did not think it made sense to buy gt40 heads only to replace them again at a later date.

Its hard to resist the urge to do upgrades along the way.

92SCtk
10-06-2017, 04:46 PM
Its hard to resist the urge to do upgrades along the way.

...head spins..."but it's already apart", "really don't want to do this again if I don't have too".....:rolleyes:

I have a '99 5.0 sitting in a Mountaineer at my parents' place that honestly just needs a tune up (at 220,000 miles, only ever replaced the radiator and water pump once). Chassis components started going bad though, and the body is rotting out so I parked it since I already had my truck at that point. Still on the fence of whether I want to do anything with it. Thought about it going in my '91 more than once, but we're doing baby steps first.

potshotscott
10-06-2017, 07:15 PM
Didn't some of those Mountaineers/Exploders have GT40 stuff in them too?

92SCtk
10-06-2017, 09:57 PM
Didn't some of those Mountaineers/Exploders have GT40 stuff in them too?

Yep, the heads were GT40 heads.

dthompson
11-08-2017, 10:51 PM
I have been making some slow progress on the project. I have cleaned up the rods and pistons using lacquer thinner. In true, budget form, I did a poor man's polish of the crank journals using 600 grit strips and WD40 (it really didnt take much effort to shine them up). Even got to try my hand at dingle ball honing the cylinders. I bought a set of replacement rings for a 4.000 bore. Looks like the end gap going to be about close straight out of the box, around 0.025"ish (I will file them to the same size once I get everything cleaned up). I realize that it is a bit much gap for NA, but it should be good for stage 2 of this project. I checked the main bearing clearances, looks like its going to be 0.0025 to 0.0030. My research leads me to believe this is about right. So far I have only checked one rod bearing, and it looked to be about 0.0025" as well. When I get some more time I will check the others before installing.

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Otherwise, I have been buying parts for the project, such as oil pan, HV oil pump, pick up tube, dipstick, seals and gaskets, water pump (more on this in a second), new timing set, and bearings. My cousin visited this weekend and we hit up the local yard and scored some accessory brackets from a 95 mustang. It was then that I realized how much bigger the van version of the water pump is than the mustang pump. I assume you have to match the pump and accessory brackets, so i will have to exchange the one I bought. I also grabbed the crank pulley (I dont know if I need it or not, but it seemed like I might). Hopefully I can reuse the van water pump pulley.

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speedingminivan
11-09-2017, 01:14 PM
for ease of packaging and fabrication and low cost, stick the turbo at the rear of the valley like the Ford Diesels have done. start with stock manifolds and make a special "Y pipe" to feed both manifolds to the turbine entrance and then run as big a downpipe as you can fit between engine/BH and firewall to whatever size exhaust system you want.

front mounted A/A cooler or with your new TIG whip up an A/W IC to fit where the 351's upper manifold used to go.. .:)


you get the idea.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/attachments/f23/7794d1278944508-turbo-clamp-stuck-exhaust-side-6.0-diesel1.jpg

DamonPearl94
11-09-2017, 04:01 PM
while your at it split the turbine housing from the compressor housing connect them with a rod that runs through the valley. keep the heat away from the compressor side :)

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcNvc_p5prU

DrFishbone
11-13-2017, 01:27 PM
I feel like I need to bathe after seeing that Mercedes engine bay....what a mess. :rolleyes: A clean mess, yes...but very unpleasing to the eye. The diagrams are even worse! lol

Seems to me....especially if you don't want a 6" cowl hood....that both of these mounting ideas leave you without much room at all for an intake manifold. If you have a truck, you have room upward...not so much with the T-Bird though. Also, routing the downpipe wouldn't be too fun...there's not really any space between the firewall and the back of the engine. Without AC, there might be room on the passenger side though.

dthompson
11-13-2017, 11:15 PM
I feel like I need to bathe after seeing that Mercedes engine bay....what a mess. :rolleyes: A clean mess, yes...but very unpleasing to the eye. The diagrams are even worse! lol

Seems to me....especially if you don't want a 6" cowl hood....that both of these mounting ideas leave you without much room at all for an intake manifold. If you have a truck, you have room upward...not so much with the T-Bird though. Also, routing the downpipe wouldn't be too fun...there's not really any space between the firewall and the back of the engine. Without AC, there might be room on the passenger side though.

I will be ditching the AC and the smog pump... mainly because the AC just isnt very cold. I spent a lot of money to replace everything and it wont really cool the car off enough to make it comfortable on a hot and humid NC summer day. I guess the 134a stuff just isnt as cold as the old r12, or the system just isnt sized big enough for the 134a. So i just dont drive it when the temperature is over 85 degrees in the summer. 85 here feels like 90-95 with the humidity.

As far as the downpipe routing, I would love to figure out a way to dump by the front wheels somehow. But I doubt that is practical for a street car needing a muffler.

dthompson
12-27-2017, 12:04 AM
Just a little update... I decided that I was going to take a crack at porting these E7 heads. I know they are junk and are not really worth the time or money to port... but right now time is free and I doubt that I can make this head worse than it is stock. I found a write up on diyporting.com that gives a decent guide on how to port these heads. If you have never ported a set of heads, its a lot of work, especially these iron heads. I probably have 12 hours in just the one head so far. I am hoping the next one goes a little fast now that I have a feel for it.

Here is what I started with...

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This is where I ended up. There are two places where most of the attention is given. The first one is reducing the size of the valve guide boss. The second is to remove the push rod bumps near the entrance to the ports.

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I followed the guide just past part 2. Hopefully I will end up with 180cfm at .500 lift as the guy reports. Its not great, but its better than the 159cfm stock. Speaking of .500 lift... I keep thinking about dropping a cheap cam in the motor now, instead of later. I think the F303 cam would be a good fit, if nothing else they sound pretty good. I have already purchased some upgraded valve springs in preparation for the turbo action later.

Other than that, Im still collecting parts here and there. I scored a good deal on a brand new Trickflow intake. I got the correct timing cover for the mustang water pump for Christmas. And I finally got my rod and main clearances where I want them (0.0026ish on the rods and 0.0030ish on the mains).

Hopefully I can get some time over the next couple weeks to finish the other head. It would be nice to begin putting this motor back together by the end of January.

dthompson
01-20-2018, 11:06 PM
Ive been making some progress in this miserable cold weather. Ive gotten the heads put back together and replaced the valve springs with a set of the Trickflow upgrade springs for the stock heads. They should work well with the F303 cam I bought.... yeah, didnt see that one coming did you? I just couldnt bring myself to put the stock cam back in it when the motor was already apart. I spent today degree'ing the cam and installing the Melling HV oil pump. One key piece of this swap is the oil pan, its a fox 351 swap oil pan with 7 quart system capacity. It will require notching the K member some from my research.

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Now i just need to buy some bolts to use for the water pump and timing cover. The old bolts just are not going to work... I switched timing cover/water pump for the shorter version.

dthompson
02-01-2018, 08:01 AM
I have installed the heads and set the Trickflow lower on the motor. I wanted to see how close the ports matched up. Its pretty close for the most part, except for the top. I did not take much material off the top of the port because it was lined up with the gasket already. Once I installed the lower intake manifold, I could see a problem. It looks like the top of the port/gasket blocks a portion injector hole. I ported to the Felpro 1250 gasket. Looks like I need to come up with a way to clear that path. Maybe a bigger gasket and a notch in the top edge of the port?

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BLOWN38
02-01-2018, 11:01 AM
Lookin good.

DrFishbone
02-01-2018, 01:44 PM
Looks like you're having fun! :)

So...the gasket you have don't match the intake...is that what you're saying? What does the intake port look like? Not rectangular? :confused:

dthompson
02-01-2018, 08:47 PM
Looks like you're having fun! :)

So...the gasket you have don't match the intake...is that what you're saying? What does the intake port look like? Not rectangular? :confused:

It looks like the injector bore on the intake is drilled such that it hits the top of the port. its worse on one side of the intake than the other, but with the angle, both sides look similar when installed.

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KMT
02-01-2018, 08:56 PM
It looks like the injector bore on the intake is drilled such that it hits the top of the port. its worse on one side of the intake than the other, but with the angle, both sides look similar when installed.

Sorry if I missed it - were the heads and/or block decked/milled?

dthompson
02-01-2018, 09:08 PM
Sorry if I missed it - were the heads and/or block decked/milled?

Not to my knowledge.

DrFishbone
02-07-2018, 01:37 PM
I see...the heads are fine, its the intake manifold that is either designed funky or has been milled.

I think I'd do like you said Derek - work a little dimple into the head...might have to trim the gasket a hair.

DrFishbone
02-07-2018, 01:38 PM
At least the water jacket gasket/port match perfectly! :o

dthompson
02-07-2018, 11:52 PM
I see...the heads are fine, its the intake manifold that is either designed funky or has been milled.

I think I'd do like you said Derek - work a little dimple into the head...might have to trim the gasket a hair.

yeah thats pretty much what i did. now to slap a little paint on it and buy some more parts. :D



I should be able to get the car inspected soon. Once that is out of the way I will pull the motor. If anyone is interested in my current motor, please message me.

DrFishbone
02-08-2018, 10:58 AM
Will you be using this intake with the turbo too?

dthompson
02-08-2018, 12:39 PM
Will you be using this intake with the turbo too?

That's the plan. I've seen good results from others online with it.

Miguel5671
02-08-2018, 01:24 PM
This is awesome Derek following!!

dthompson
02-13-2018, 09:45 PM
I got a few more pieces in since the last update. I painted the block and heads so they look a little more presentable. A mustang fuel rail with some AN efi adapters came in last week. The valve covers I had were really rusty, so i picked up some cheapo valve covers from summit... well worth the $25 compared to trying to clean up the others. I scored some used 60lb injectors today. That should support close to 600whp which should hold me until I really build the motor. It looks like I will probably need to come up with a different adapter for the ECT sensor, seems a little tall, lol. :)

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David Neibert
02-14-2018, 02:47 PM
Brings back a lot of memories. The fitting for ECT sensor and heater hoses was a pain in the azz on my 347 motor with Victor Jr intake, looks like you will have similar issues.

David

DrFishbone
02-14-2018, 03:59 PM
Just cut a hole in the hood for the ECT.

Looking good, Derek! :cool:

When do you think you'll be ready to drop it into the car?

DrFishbone
02-14-2018, 04:03 PM
Engine looks alot cooler than the first picture :)

What are you doing for a transmission? Stick with the M5R2?

dthompson
02-14-2018, 07:33 PM
Just cut a hole in the hood for the ECT.

Looking good, Derek! :cool:

When do you think you'll be ready to drop it into the car?

Ive still got a few things to assemble on the motor. I think i will be ready to pull the current motor out in a few weeks (March) and then the new one starts to go in... Im not going to use the term "drop in", because I have to cut/box the k member for the oil pan and make some motor mounts. After that Ive still got to...
1. upgrade the fuel lines. I doubt the existing ones are going to reach the mustang rail.
2. swap out the flywheel and starter
3. swap the harness, eec, and make needed wiring changes
4. swap the tach
5. patch up the exhaust
6. get a hood to fit

It would be nice to fire it up in April sometime. I just depends on what I run into along the way.


Im going to see how low I can mount the motor to help with keeping the cowl hood to a reasonable size. It looks really tall now, so Im sure every little bit will help. I do plan on keeping the M5R2. I dont really have a plan or budget to swap that out. I wish we had other options besides a T-56.

dthompson
02-15-2018, 11:00 PM
Brings back a lot of memories. The fitting for ECT sensor and heater hoses was a pain in the azz on my 347 motor with Victor Jr intake, looks like you will have similar issues.

David

Im seriously thinking about ditching the heater hoses. I have already planned on ditching the AC. Lets face it, Im not going to drive the car when its that below freezing anyways.

It would not be hard to modify the existing part and run a line straight back to the water pump.

BLOWN38
02-19-2018, 05:23 PM
Im seriously thinking about ditching the heater hoses. I have already planned on ditching the AC. Lets face it, Im not going to drive the car when its that below freezing anyways.

It would not be hard to modify the existing part and run a line straight back to the water pump.

Like! And they make a nice electric heat unit if you really want it and you don't have to wait for water to warm up.

swanisabella
02-22-2018, 02:13 AM
This sounds fun and great .
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dthompson
03-14-2018, 10:58 PM
Its been a while since the last update. I was fortunate enough to be able to sell a lot of parts as they came off the motor, but that took a fair amount of time to disassemble, clean, and ship. If anyone is interested in buying parts from my old set up, the link for that thread is below.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?139692-4-2-long-block-and-performance-parts&highlight=gfp

Since the last post I have purchased the flywheel for the swap, and a bunch of fuel line related components. Tonight I was able to take the motor off the stand and position it into its general position. I was surprised that it fit as well as it did. I was honestly expecting much worse. It looks like only minor work is needed to the k-member from what I can see upon first inspection. The driver's side exhaust looks like it will be fun!

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Tim Groth
03-15-2018, 09:09 AM
Nice work! You're making some serious progress!

-Tm

DrFishbone
03-15-2018, 12:03 PM
I'm digging the leveler....lol...

So are you planning to cut/weld the K-member to make the room then?

dthompson
03-15-2018, 12:41 PM
I'm digging the leveler....lol...

So are you planning to cut/weld the K-member to make the room then?

Not if it doesn't need it! I want to bolt up the trans tonight and see where things fall exactly. The front looks fine and the back will get better when it mates up to the trans. I'll keep the clearance over the k-member minimal. I planned on making solid motor mounts anyways.

MaddMartigan93
03-15-2018, 08:04 PM
Couple of thoughts. If you notch the K member to allow for clearance, you can also make it easier to fit long tube headers. If you're interested in this route then let me know and I can show you what I did to allow for my 7QT "T" road race pan which would translate pretty well to what you're doing. Also regarding the steering shaft, if you switch to the Flaming River u-joint you'll end up with more room for headers. I was able to use Mac TFA-9358 headers since they had allowances for passing the steering shaft through them.

Again, if you're interested, I have a few things that might help. I'm running a 347 in my car so I have faced similar issues to what you're doing.

dthompson
03-15-2018, 10:52 PM
I got the M5R2 bolted up. Interesting note, the 351w uses entirely english fasteners which is nice... except for the fact that the 3.8 is mostly metric! so I get to buy more bolts... this is becoming a common occurrence for this project.

It looks like it will require a small notch on the rear driver's side of the k-member. It may be something that one could smash in with a hammer... but I will probably cut and patch.

It also looks like the motor will sit at a ~5.5deg angle. The pinion flange is at a 4.5deg angle. I believe these angles are supposed to match in an IRS, but does anyone know what the tolerance is for something like this? I can shim the rear pumpkin mount down if needed.

Hopefully this weekend I can get out there and start on some motor mounts.

dthompson
03-15-2018, 11:01 PM
Couple of thoughts. If you notch the K member to allow for clearance, you can also make it easier to fit long tube headers. If you're interested in this route then let me know and I can show you what I did to allow for my 7QT "T" road race pan which would translate pretty well to what you're doing. Also regarding the steering shaft, if you switch to the Flaming River u-joint you'll end up with more room for headers. I was able to use Mac TFA-9358 headers since they had allowances for passing the steering shaft through them.

Again, if you're interested, I have a few things that might help. I'm running a 347 in my car so I have faced similar issues to what you're doing.

thanks for the tips, I dont plan on using long tubes... as i plan on pointing some logs forward!

MaddMartigan93
03-16-2018, 06:00 AM
thanks for the tips, I dont plan on using long tubes... as i plan on pointing some logs forward!

Yeah, I figured you were headed that route eventually since you were headed down the path of running a turbo. Using the Flaming River u-joint will still be useful for getting more clearance I would bet.

Have you figured out motor mounts yet?

dthompson
03-16-2018, 08:02 AM
It looks like the steering shaft is going to be the biggest problem so far. And it's not just the joint... The shaft looks to be in the way as well. I'll worry about that after I get the mounts made. I don't have an exact plan yet for the mounts, but I will try to keep them compact to allow more room for other activities.

MadMikeyL
03-16-2018, 09:01 AM
With a 351W, the steering shaft mod is pretty much a requirement. Since it is taller and wider than a 302, it leaves even less room for the exhaust, and even the stock restrictive 5.0 MN12 exhaust manifolds won't fit. Once that is done though, you should have plenty of room for some turbo manifolds, although long-tubes are still tight.

BLOWN38
03-16-2018, 10:15 AM
Here is a good article on the angles. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/91758/ Doesn't say anything about IRS but I would guess it to be pretty rigid depending on the diff mounts used.

dthompson
03-31-2018, 11:38 PM
I got some help from my cousin this weekend and we are making progress on the project. We have been struggling with how tall the motor and intake combination is... so we spent a ton of time working on that. I ended up cutting more out of the k-member than I had anticipated. I still need to weld some pieces back into it to strengthen where it was cut, but I will cover that in another post later along with the motor mounts. We also lowered the k-member .75" right now. I didn't want to do that either, but it looks like it is going to need that in order to fit a cobra r hood. Unless someone knows where to get a slightly taller hood than that, it doesn' seem like there are a lot of options. We got tired of fighting the motor mounts, so we took a break and started working on the full sized radiator.

I purchased a full sized, 2 row radiator from Jegs along with their matching .5" deep fan shroud. I chose a flexalite 16" fan (~2000cfm) to match. We installed the fan to the shroud using riv-nuts and the fan shroud to the radiator with rivets. We cut aluminum angle and welded on standoffs for the bottom mounts. These standoffs fit into the stock rubber grommets in the bottom of the core support. For the top ones we bent some tabs and reused the stock rubber isolators and mounting locations. I was pretty pleased with how it turned out. Ended up with decent clearance in front of the I still need to go get some heat resistant foam to seal off between the radiator and the front of the core support to force the air through the radiator.

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MaddMartigan93
04-01-2018, 07:17 AM
RE: Hood Clearance

Since you're turbo charging this setup, what kind of intake are you planning on using? The reason I ask is that I've commonly seen people just use bread box style upper intakes with forced induction and they often give you a lower profile upper intake than the traditional 5.0 style intakes from that era.

BTW, this thread is awesome. Your progress is awesome. I wish I knew the things I know now when I did my engine 15 years ago that I know now including the things I know how to do that you are doing.

Mercutio
04-01-2018, 01:42 PM
Nice work on the radiator. That's a good looking piece.

dthompson
04-02-2018, 07:29 AM
RE: Hood Clearance

Since you're turbo charging this setup, what kind of intake are you planning on using? The reason I ask is that I've commonly seen people just use bread box style upper intakes with forced induction and they often give you a lower profile upper intake than the traditional 5.0 style intakes from that era.


I am using the TrickFlow R intake manifold with the 75mm TB opening. It is stupid tall for this engine bay... I found this intake brand new for about $600, which is a good deal. There are only a few aftermarket options for the 351 EFI. I also looked at doing a Super Vic EFI with an elbow, but it would require the tightest elbow to be any shorter. It would be more compact overall, and the highest point would be farther back. I sort of steered away from this idea because that intake seems more like a race intake than a street intake. Holley now makes a Hi-Ram LS style intake for the 351. not sure the height on it, but my guess it is that it is not any shorter... and probably have to spend more to get a specific distributor for the TB to clear. Lightning Intakes are another option, but Ive seen the lowers go for $600 without the uppers. Anyways, this is what I have now, and we will see if I can make it work.


Nice work on the radiator. That's a good looking piece.

Thanks! These Jegs radiators are a really good value. they look well made, no epoxy, and it was only $140 bucks (they don't come with petcock or the cap, so add $15 for that). I made the mounts out of scrap that I had laying around. I like that Jegs makes a corresponding low profile fan shroud to go with it. The only complaint I have is that once the radiator is installed, it does not look finished along the top surface, it needs a dress up cover plate.

neverfastenough
04-02-2018, 08:36 AM
That intake is crazy tall. Id sell what you have and come up with something different maybe. You said you have 600 in it? then cost of a new hood plus paint, maybe reallocate those funds

dthompson
04-02-2018, 10:22 PM
Mounts and K member: This has been a real challenge. I have made several attempts to get this to where it is now. I ended up having to cut on the K member a lot more than I first thought. Ive got the motor about as low as it can possible go, without having to relocate the rack. I had to notch the top and back of the K member to get it this low. There is ~.25" clearance under the pan. The pan ended up hanging down flush with the k member... so that worked out better than I expected.

68417

68418

We also made some spacers for the K member out of .25" and .5" aluminum. I did this to have some adjustment later. Currently I have both installed, which is lowering the k member by .75". for reference, the K member bolts have a E-18 head (like a star head or external torx). I replaced the bolts with M12 x 1.75 x 50mm grade 10.9 with a standard hex head from my local home depot.

68420


The motor mounts are solid, which i dont love, but they will have to do for now. Im not sure I have enough clearance around the pan to run a poly mount anyways. They are made from the stock SC lower portion, a piece of 2" box tubing, and some 3/16" flat bar. The mounts are very compact and should allow a lot of room for activities later. The motor has about 2.5 degrees angle using the stock trans mount.

68419

68421

dthompson
04-02-2018, 10:26 PM
So this is where the motor ended up height wise. Ive got a string stretched from fender to fender at the front of the shock towers. It is 3.5" to the top of the main body of the intake (some of the ribs and letters stick up higher, but they are farther back too). The TB mount is the highest spot on the manifold and extending a line from it intersects the top edge of the plastic cowling. I am hoping this is enough to clear the cobra r hood.

68423

68422

dthompson
04-02-2018, 10:36 PM
duplicate post :(

MaddMartigan93
04-03-2018, 06:11 AM
Looks awesome. It's going to be close for clearance.

I know you got a deal on the intake but I'm wondering if something like this wouldn't be a better choice: https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-515u1108

The price on just the upper that should mate with your existing lower isn't too bad from what I saw on eBay.

dthompson
04-03-2018, 07:23 AM
Looks awesome. It's going to be close for clearance.

I know you got a deal on the intake but I'm wondering if something like this wouldn't be a better choice: https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-515u1108

The price on just the upper that should mate with your existing lower isn't too bad from what I saw on eBay.

If I am not mistaken, the box intake is actually taller than what I have now.

MaddMartigan93
04-03-2018, 08:16 AM
If I am not mistaken, the box intake is actually taller than what I have now.

OK. I couldn't find any dimensions but the general thought was that since it doesn't need to clear the valve covers other than allowing room for the throttle body, it wouldn't be quite as tall.

dthompson
04-08-2018, 09:56 PM
A couple of folks have mentioned to me about using the trick flow box intake so i wanted to share my research here for future reference in case anyone cares to use this thread in the future...

If you buy a 351 out of a truck or van, plan on buying a mustang 5.0 fuel rail and replacing the rubber sections to make it fit a 351 or spending some serious money on aftermarket fuel rails... which are really expensive for some reason. The truck fuel rails do not work with the traditional style trickflow SBF intake manifolds because the FRP is on the wrong side. If you start with a 5.0 bird, im guessing those rails should work if the FPR is on the passenger side.


Trickflow EFI Box R intake 90mm TB opening = 12.75" tall, new $798
Trickflow EFI R intake 70/90mm TB opening = 11.5" tall, new $795 I found a new one that somebody changed their mind on and got it for $600
Holley High Ram AIR intake 95/105mm TB opening 11.41"* requires a low profile distributor. new $769 but includes fuel rails. holley's low profile distributor is $450
Trickflow EFI R carb style intake = 6.45" plus an elbow like made by edelbrock...PN:3847 at 3.62", or PN:3848 at 5.04", or PN:3849 at 7.75" which would add up to 10.07"*tall, or 11.49" tall, or 14.2" tall. *I dont think the short one will work due to distributor/valve cover clearance. new $556 for both lower and elbow, but will require aftermarket fuel rails.
The Ford Lightning lower intakes are going for over $600 each right now and then you still have to find an upper. I could not find a height listed anywhere, but they are so sought after, its not a good deal and I bet it still requires an aftermarket hood.
Trickflow EFI R carb style intake = 6.45" plus fabricate your own elbow like was done on David Neiberts 347 motor


So the intake I chose is tall, but in line with all the other aftermarket options. The price I got is fair IMO. Im not sure that the larger 90mm+ TBs are required to make the power I am looking to make with a turbo. There is that article on the internet and some guys make 1000+hp with a junkyard 351 that had a 75mm TB and a turbo.

I think with some of the measurements from folks have helped me out with on Facebook, the Cobra R hood will be OK. I went ahead and ordered it this week and should be here by the end of April. I wasnt able to get a lot done on the car this weekend, but I have started looking at the wiring changes and I installed the flywheel and clutch. The flywheel is a 164 tooth 28oz imbalance from ford racing. Its sfi approved. The clutch is the same CF DF clutch that had before. I have a love-hate relationship with that clutch.

68440

dthompson
04-15-2018, 09:02 PM
Its been a tough week. We had to say goodbye to our 18.5 year old cat this week, which was really hard on me and the wife. Now im fighting off a cold, which left me worthless for a day and a half. But, I did manage to get one thing done this weekend and that is wiring up the EEC relay. There are a few wiring changes that need to be done to make the swap happen, and this is probably the biggest one. Im not going to post too much about the specifics here, as Dave Dalke (SCUinc) has documented this pretty well and copyrighted the information. I will say that for any non-paying members that read this thread, there is a great resource of wiring diagrams available on the members only portion of the site... way better schematics than the EVTM. I did some double checking and tracing of the schematic to make sure I understood what was going on. The SC uses the IRCM to power the EEC, and the 5.0 uses a relay in the main power distribution box. So I wired up a 40 amp relay using the wiring diagrams and DD's documentation and hid the relay in the power distribution box. I swapped out a connector on the 5.0 harness and and all that is left is to re-wrap the harness in electrical tape.

68452

MaddMartigan93
04-16-2018, 05:55 AM
Its been a tough week. We had to say goodbye to our 18.5 year old cat this week, which was really hard on me and the wife. Now im fighting off a cold, which left me worthless for a day and a half. But, I did manage to get one thing done this weekend and that is wiring up the EEC relay. There are a few wiring changes that need to be done to make the swap happen, and this is probably the biggest one. Im not going to post too much about the specifics here, as Dave Dalke (SCUinc) has documented this pretty well and copyrighted the information. I will say that for any non-paying members that read this thread, there is a great resource of wiring diagrams available on the members only portion of the site... way better schematics than the EVTM. I did some double checking and tracing of the schematic to make sure I understood what was going on. The SC uses the IRCM to power the EEC, and the 5.0 uses a relay in the main power distribution box. So I wired up a 40 amp relay using the wiring diagrams and DD's documentation and hid the relay in the power distribution box. I swapped out a connector on the 5.0 harness and and all that is left is to re-wrap the harness in electrical tape.


Which ECM did you decide to use for this?

dthompson
04-16-2018, 07:51 AM
The EEC is from a 92 Thunderbird 5.0 and matching eec/engine harness.

MaddMartigan93
04-16-2018, 08:14 AM
The EEC is from a 92 Thunderbird 5.0 and matching eec/engine harness.

Cool. What tuning solution are you planning to use?

dthompson
04-16-2018, 08:26 AM
The QH and BE that I already had with my last set up. I had to purchase a different strategy file to match the new EEC. It is gsalc from sailorbob to match the L1C catch code.

MaddMartigan93
04-16-2018, 09:04 AM
The QH and BE that I already had with my last set up. I had to purchase a different strategy file to match the new EEC. It is gsalc from sailorbob to match the L1C catch code.

Very cool. Sounds like you have everything very much in order. I can't wait to see how it all turns out. Nice work.

davec73
04-16-2018, 11:35 AM
Looking good Derek!

dthompson
04-24-2018, 10:03 PM
I have been looking at the engine wiring harnesses and diagrams trying to make sure that I understand how it works and how its routed. I do not like the way the wires branch off for the distributor/coil or the maf/coolant reservoir wire is not in a great spot either when the turbo dump pipes runs out on the passenger side. The loom on the harness that I got was really dried out, stiff and brittle. So i decided to peel into it and look at rearranging the harness. I think the best approach is to branch off the distributor/coil wiring back at the firewall and run it from the back of the motor to the front (like the injector harness). I would move the branch point for the maf connector back to the same point. I have not committed to this idea yet because it requires extending some wires including the foil wrapped ignition wires (assuming the TFI module remains up by the core support). Its not rocket science, but once you hack up a harness, its hard to go backwards!

The other concern i have is how the harness runs on the inside of the frame rail around the shock tower on the passenger side. There is a section of the shock tower that is boxed in that I had never paid much attention to before. I think it would be possible to notch the bottom of that area without reducing much, if any, strength. Then run the harness behind that section of the shock tower (on top of the frame rail). Then I would drill a hole in the top of the frame rail in front of the shock tower and run the harness up to the front of the car inside the frame rail. I am hoping to accomplish two things with this idea... 1. protect the harness from the heat of the turbo and down pipe 2. make as much room as possible for the passenger manifold and down pipe.

Ohh yeah, and I got a turbo since the last update :)

68477

MaddMartigan93
04-25-2018, 05:59 AM
I have been looking at the engine wiring harnesses .....

What alternator bracket are you using?

dthompson
04-25-2018, 07:06 AM
What alternator bracket are you using?

The acc brackets came from a 95 mustang 5.0

MaddMartigan93
04-25-2018, 09:45 PM
The acc brackets came from a 95 mustang 5.0

So, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're going to run into some alignment issues with that bracket. Of course, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're also going to have fun getting a radiator and fan in there too unless you plan on putting the radiator in front of the core support.

dthompson
04-25-2018, 10:27 PM
So, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're going to run into some alignment issues with that bracket. Of course, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're also going to have fun getting a radiator and fan in there too unless you plan on putting the radiator in front of the core support.

A 95 mustang is not a fox, its a SN95. Both accessory brackets, crank pulley, water pump, and alternator are from/for a 95 mustang, so they all match. The timing cover is from Jegs, but fits a 95 mustang. Im currently searching for a water pump pulley, but will find one that matches the 95 mustang. The water pump pulley came with the 5.8, but I had to open up the center hole to fit the mustang water pump. The harmonic balancer is the monkey wrench in the combination. I purchased a Power Bond PB1082SS. This is one of two PB balancers that they make for the 351w (28oz) that is SFI approved. This balancer does not space the 95 mustang crank pulley out far enough. Ford Performance Parts makes a M-8510-B351 crank pulley spacer. My plan is to purchase this spacer and then machine it to the correct thickness to allow the crank pulley to line up with the other pulleys. But Im waiting to get the power steering pulley first to make life easier to measure.

I posted pictures of the radiator and fan set up that I am going to use already (on page 4 of this thread). From the pictures you can see that it clears the water pump snout, which is the closest interference. What I have not posted on this radiator set up is the fan controller and overflow reservoir. But there is plenty of room to tuck that stuff in somewhere on the driver's front side.

MaddMartigan93
04-26-2018, 06:02 AM
A 95 mustang is not a fox, its a SN95. Both accessory brackets, crank pulley, water pump, and alternator are from/for a 95 mustang, so they all match. The timing cover is from Jegs, but fits a 95 mustang. Im currently searching for a water pump pulley, but will find one that matches the 95 mustang. The water pump pulley came with the 5.8, but I had to open up the center hole to fit the mustang water pump. The harmonic balancer is the monkey wrench in the combination. I purchased a Power Bond PB1082SS. This is one of two PB balancers that they make for the 351w (28oz) that is SFI approved. This balancer does not space the 95 mustang crank pulley out far enough. Ford Performance Parts makes a M-8510-B351 crank pulley spacer. My plan is to purchase this spacer and then machine it to the correct thickness to allow the crank pulley to line up with the other pulleys. But Im waiting to get the power steering pulley first to make life easier to measure.

I posted pictures of the radiator and fan set up that I am going to use already (on page 4 of this thread). From the pictures you can see that it clears the water pump snout, which is the closest interference. What I have not posted on this radiator set up is the fan controller and overflow reservoir. But there is plenty of room to tuck that stuff in somewhere on the driver's front side.

OK, cool. The pictures with the water pump on seemed to look like the long neck water pump instead of the short neck pump so that's why I was asking. I went through most of these things with my setup so that's I was looking at it.

I recently changed my balancer and I went with the Professional Products SFI balancer which required a spacer and they make one of those that is correct for our application as well.

Here is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ELXDQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep in mind that the picture is not accurate. The part I received is machined aluminum and is a very nice part. I'm not sure if that would work for your balancer or not though.

dthompson
05-14-2018, 11:15 PM
I wanted to document this in case there are some other gluttons out there wanting to try this swap. Trickflow makes a pretty nice elbow adapter for the throttle body for 94-95 mustangs (SN95 5.0). Its reasonably priced and does a nice job of rotating and lowering the throttle body to a more desirable position. What is not so obvious is that the trickflow intake has the fox throttle body bolt spacing, which is not the same as the SN95 5.0 bolt spacing. So the elbow has the fox bolt pattern on the intake side, and the SN95 bolt pattern on the throttle body side. I found this out the hard way, as the original fox throttle body that I bought did not fit the elbow. From what I can tell the IAC and TPS sensors are all compatible, so its just a matter of matching the throttle body to the elbow.

68542

Finally found a power steering pump/pulley from the 94-95 5.0... which is another hard lesson learned. The 94-95 mustang 5.0 power steering pump pulley is unique to those two years. I destroyed one in the yard when I pulled the brackets, because Im an idiot. I didnt realize i needed it, didnt have a puller, and didnt want to pay for the pump. So I destroyed it trying to save a few bucks... well that cost me $100. Most used part dealer yards would not sell just the pulley. :rolleyes:

Im not sure if the 94-95 mustang brackets are the best for this swap or not. Seems like I read on TCCoA that it was preferred, but they seem to be scarce around here.

Anyways, just been doing a lot of thinking and planning trying to figure out how to route all the turbo plumbing. Hopefully Im getting close on that and will start fabbing soon.

MaddMartigan93
05-15-2018, 06:16 AM
I wanted to document this in case there are some other gluttons out there wanting to try this swap. Trickflow makes a pretty nice elbow adapter for the throttle body for 94-95 mustangs (SN95 5.0). Its reasonably priced and does a nice job of rotating and lowering the throttle body to a more desirable position. What is not so obvious is that the trickflow intake has the fox throttle body bolt spacing, which is not the same as the SN95 5.0 bolt spacing. So the elbow has the fox bolt pattern on the intake side, and the SN95 bolt pattern on the throttle body side. I found this out the hard way, as the original fox throttle body that I bought did not fit the elbow. From what I can tell the IAC and TPS sensors are all compatible, so its just a matter of matching the throttle body to the elbow.

Finally found a power steering pump/pulley from the 94-95 5.0... which is another hard lesson learned. The 94-95 mustang 5.0 power steering pump pulley is unique to those two years. I destroyed one in the yard when I pulled the brackets, because Im an idiot. I didnt realize i needed it, didnt have a puller, and didnt want to pay for the pump. So I destroyed it trying to save a few bucks... well that cost me $100. Most used part dealer yards would not sell just the pulley. :rolleyes:

Im not sure if the 94-95 mustang brackets are the best for this swap or not. Seems like I read on TCCoA that it was preferred, but they seem to be scarce around here.

Anyways, just been doing a lot of thinking and planning trying to figure out how to route all the turbo plumbing. Hopefully Im getting close on that and will start fabbing soon.

So, yeah, unfortunately you learned the hard way on those two items. I'm sorry to hear it because I could have helped out since I had to learn the hard way pretty much too. The 91-93 MN12 5.0 also uses the same configuration as the 94-95 SN95 5.0 for the brackets, pullies and throttle body. The whole short neck water pump is what drives the whole accessory configuration. Wazee's makes a billet power steering pump pulley so it's something to keep in mind. The stock pullies are slowly becoming impossible to find too.

I think you're past the things I can help with but if you run into something else that's weird just PM me and I'll do my best to relate my experiences. If nothing else I might be able to help you avoid doing the same wrong thing I did.

It looks awesome though. I can't wait to see the finished product.

David Neibert
05-16-2018, 11:59 AM
This brings back a lot of memories from my 93 SC converted to 347 turbo. You are starting to get to the part where you find that the devil is in the details.

David

dthompson
05-20-2018, 09:40 PM
Feels like I took a big step forward this weekend. I was able to get the v bands welded on the exhaust manifolds. Im new to welding (pretty much self taught by youtube and pestering folks who know how to weld with questions), so welding up to the cast iron was a little intimidating. I did a hefty pre-heat on my gas grill and wrapped the manifolds in a couple towels after welding and it seemed to do OK. It helped that I finally got a gas lens for the torch which made a world of difference for me on being able to see what I was doing. Im still waiting on a T4 to 3" vband adapter before I get too deep into the hotside,but finally feels like it is starting to come together.

68575

Hopefully there will be more fab photos in the next couple weeks. Maybe one of these days, I will even be able to start it... looks like it is going to be June now. I talked to my cousin... we are going to try and make the shootout this year if I can get this thing finished up in time.

dthompson
06-03-2018, 10:37 PM
I got some work done on the hotside the past couple weeks. I decided to support the turbo from the alternator bracket... hopefully the 1/4" rods will not transfer too much heat. The flange is a pretty nice ebay find, its a CNC piece transitioning from 3" tubing to T4 flange. The smaller tubes are 2.25" and they merge into 3".
I'm still waiting on some smaller tubing for the wastegate. The parts you see were mocked up in the engine bay and tacked together. Then I pulled the motor to finish connecting the dots. Still need to remove the pan and add the oil return bung for the turbo drain. While the motor is out, I need to finish up the harness work, secure the 95 mustang throttle cable to the firewall (yup had to swap that to match the TB... the connection was different), and cut some holes for the turbo cold side.

I scored a couple important things at the junk yard since my last post. They had a 95 mustang gt and I got the alternator bolts, the throttle cable and bracket, and the thermostat housing/water neck.

68611

68612

dthompson
06-10-2018, 09:51 PM
Got most of the dots connected before the turbo.

68628

dthompson
07-04-2018, 09:53 PM
My cousin and I thrashed on this thing for the past week. Its been tough and fighting us most of the way. Trying to work through some wiring and electrical stuff that I dont quite understand yet. I tried to hook of the EEC and QH in a hurry late last night and I may have damaged stuff. Hope its not too bad. I forgot to repair the eec ground wire connector by the battery and tried to connect to the QH unknowingly. The USB cable got really hot and it may have damaged the connector on the board... the usb cable is definitely damaged some on the connector that plugs into the QH. I guess the EEC may have tried to pull a ground through the usb? Something else that is weird is that the 12v and ground (pins 4-5) on the BA5000 slot maf seem to have continuity... I did not expect that. So now I am checking out all the wiring changes, and making sure everything is correct. I dont understand why the ignition coil wire (the smaller red/green in the main fuse box) )that I used to trigger the EEC relay I added seems to have continuity to ground. If i pull the ignition fuse it opens (that means the big red/green wire side has the continuity that pass it through the fuse). I dont know if this is normal or not, but it seems odd to me.

I'll keep chipping away at it. Sucks, but GFP.

68689

then intake tube is temporary. just want to get it fired first.

MaddMartigan93
07-05-2018, 06:36 AM
My cousin and I thrashed on this thing for the past week. Its been tough and fighting us most of the way. Trying to work through some wiring and electrical stuff that I dont quite understand yet. I tried to hook of the EEC and QH in a hurry late last night and I may have damaged stuff. Hope its not too bad. I forgot to repair the eec ground wire connector by the battery and tried to connect to the QH unknowingly. The USB cable got really hot and it may have damaged the connector on the board... the usb cable is definitely damaged some on the connector that plugs into the QH. I guess the EEC may have tried to pull a ground through the usb? Something else that is weird is that the 12v and ground (pins 4-5) on the BA5000 slot maf seem to have continuity... I did not expect that. So now I am checking out all the wiring changes, and making sure everything is correct. I dont understand why the ignition coil wire (the smaller red/green in the main fuse box) )that I used to trigger the EEC relay I added seems to have continuity to ground. If i pull the ignition fuse it opens (that means the big red/green wire side has the continuity that pass it through the fuse). I dont know if this is normal or not, but it seems odd to me.

I'll keep chipping away at it. Sucks, but GFP.


then intake tube is temporary. just want to get it fired first.

Looks awesome man. Good work. I'm sure you'll work through the wiring stuff.

neverfastenough
07-05-2018, 08:03 AM
My cousin and I thrashed on this thing for the past week. Its been tough and fighting us most of the way. Trying to work through some wiring and electrical stuff that I dont quite understand yet. I tried to hook of the EEC and QH in a hurry late last night and I may have damaged stuff. Hope its not too bad. I forgot to repair the eec ground wire connector by the battery and tried to connect to the QH unknowingly. The USB cable got really hot and it may have damaged the connector on the board... the usb cable is definitely damaged some on the connector that plugs into the QH. I guess the EEC may have tried to pull a ground through the usb? Something else that is weird is that the 12v and ground (pins 4-5) on the BA5000 slot maf seem to have continuity... I did not expect that. So now I am checking out all the wiring changes, and making sure everything is correct. I dont understand why the ignition coil wire (the smaller red/green in the main fuse box) )that I used to trigger the EEC relay I added seems to have continuity to ground. If i pull the ignition fuse it opens (that means the big red/green wire side has the continuity that pass it through the fuse). I dont know if this is normal or not, but it seems odd to me.

I'll keep chipping away at it. Sucks, but GFP.

68689

then intake tube is temporary. just want to get it fired first.

The downpipe is the one that goes thru the hood, not the charge pipe :p;)

DrFishbone
07-05-2018, 12:31 PM
Looking sweet, Derek. :cool:

The continuity surprises probably aren't issues....remember....a resistor has continuity between each end too. ;)

dthompson
07-05-2018, 08:55 PM
Looking sweet, Derek. :cool:

The continuity surprises probably aren't issues....remember....a resistor has continuity between each end too. ;)

Im a little gun shy after making a mistake. I cooked the connector on my QH. After digging out some melted plastic from the connector, i was able to get the QH to connect and download and upload a tune (just connected to my laptop, no EEC). But i had to keep pressure on the cable to keep it from dropping out. Ive got some buddies that can solder that type of stuff, so Im going to try and get them to replace the connector for me.

dthompson
07-08-2018, 10:52 PM
quick update... I was able to make my QH work after some finagling... but the usb connector needs to be replaced. Moates is a decent company for sure. I contacted them and told them what happened and they are gonna fix/replace it for me. So Im sending that off Monday. I figured out a couple problems with the wiring and corrected that. One of those problems was i used the wrong diagram to wire up the slot maf. Its really pretty crappy IMO that SCT doesnt send any information in the box with the BA5000. I mean its a $200 meter and doesn't include any sort of paperwork? Hopefully its not damaged, I tried to test it out, but I cant tell if its working or not. I guess its a waiting game to get the QH back and then go from there. While i was testing the QH, the fuel pump was working with the key on and I didnt find any leaks on the new braided PTFE fuel lines.

BLOWN38
07-09-2018, 09:37 AM
Lucky you on not having any leaks on that line.:D

MAF should be ok. Shouldn't be anymore than 5v going to any wire there, so just readings going to the wrong place. And yeah the slot maf is wired different from the older style mafs. Mainly the IAT legs are in line instead of on the outer ends.

dthompson
07-09-2018, 09:50 AM
Lucky you on not having any leaks on that line.:D

MAF should be ok. Shouldn't be anymore than 5v going to any wire there, so just readings going to the wrong place. And yeah the slot maf is wired different from the older style mafs. Mainly the IAT legs are in line instead of on the outer ends.

There is a 12v line going to maf. Following the mistake: I had 12v going to the ground pin on the sensor. Ground going to the maf return on the sensor. Maf return going to maf5.0 on the sensor. and maf 5.0 going to the iat return on the sensor.

Tim Groth
07-09-2018, 10:14 AM
Awesome work man! Really impressive build and well documented as always.

-Tim

dthompson
07-15-2018, 11:24 PM
I switched up my plans for the IC plumbing. I originally wanted to come out of the turbo and go down to the lower IC port. Then out of the IC through the core support, a straight shot past the right side of the turbo, and then 45 into the TB. But it was just too tight between the radiator and the turbo. So plan b is to feed the turbo outlet through the core support using two 90s for a really short run into the top of the IC. Out the lower IC port following the bumper, up through the fender area, then into the engine bay on the back side of the turbo, and then 45 into the TB. The IC is also a plan B as well. I had a bad experience with CXRacing this go round. The IC that I ordered from them was originally back ordered 6-8 weeks. After 8 weeks I called them and they said it was still back ordered 7-8 weeks. So I cancelled my order and got a similar one from treadstone (shout out to Binks for helping me find it). Its a same side in and out, vertical flow, 25"x9"x3.5". I swear its heavier than the previous IC I had that was 24"x12"x4" horizontal flow. I guess its the cast end tanks. Anyways, this picture is the mockup as I figured things out. I checked the bumper cover, and it fits no problem. The fender liner fits as well, so no problems there. The charcoal canister is ok too for now. However, I did have to move that vacuum dingle ball located behind the fender. Now that the holes are cut in the car and the IC is mounted(ish) I can cut and weld the final version of the tubing. I will admit, I had a little heartburn taking the hole saw to the fender area, but there is no turning back now! :D Because race... I mean streetcar :D

Its hard to see the air filter in the picture, but its a 6" diameter tapered to 4" and its 9" long with a 4" outlet. You should have seen the first one I bought by mistake... it was 8" diameter and 11" long...lol it probably fit a 7.3 diesel engine!

68715

MaddMartigan93
07-16-2018, 06:05 AM
Looks amazing man. Great work.