I need a new mechanic...Help!

Guy Montaquila

Registered User
Hi Everyone,
I have been having starting up problems. I replaced the started a year ago and now when I start the car, it clicks but doesn't turn over all the time. The shop manual points to the starter as the problem, but my mechanic decided to change the relay. It did not fix the problem. He "supposedly" checked all the connections to make sure they were not corroded. If this is true then the starter is bad, right? On top of that, after he changed the relay the firm ride light started blinking. I tried clicking the switch to clear it, but nothing it still blinks and when I switch from firm to auto I hear clicking coming from the trunk. Is there a sensor or something near the relay that may affect the automatic ride control? Any help is appreciated.
 
Best thing for you to do is to take the starter off the car and take it to any parts store such as Autozone and have them bench test it. You can't conclude that the starter is bad just from what you've told us here.

As far as the flashing firm light, it has nothing to do with the starter relay. The 2 problems are just coincidental.. unless of course someone disconnected one of them for some reason. You can look and tell right away.
 
You probably need a new starter solenoid. Turn the key on but don't crank, take a flat screwdriver and jump the terminals on the solenoid, if the car starts when you do this but not when you turn the key your solenoid is toast.

Also a blinking light means one of your shocks is stuck in firm. How many times does it blink? That will tell you which shock it is. Then you pull the actuator off, take wd-40 and needle nose pliers, spray the wd on the valve, then turn it back and forth with the needle nose pliers. Make sure you end up with it in the same position you started with so the actuator will fit back over it. This should fix that problem. It worked on both of my SC's and when I bought my 2nd one it was doing that.
 
On most, maybe all since I haven't paid attention to the 94-95's, of these cars there is a fender mounted solenoid and also a starter mounted solenoid. The Ford ignition switch of the period did not have the amperage capacity for starter mounted solenoids (30+amps) so they use the fender solenoid (10 amps) to turn on the starter solenoid.

Anyway, it is very common for the starter solenoid to develop pitting and carbon tracking on its internal contacts. The solenoid will go click but due to the carbon and pitting there will be no current flow to the starter motor proper. You could remove the starter, disassemble the solenoid and install a new plunger and contacts inexpesively assuming you can get the parts. Which should be availabe and any good alternator/starter rebuilder thats local to you. I'd rank it about a 3 on a 1-10 scale of difficulty.
 
another thing to check out since you mention the fender solenoid, one of my friends was experiencing a no start problem that he thought was that solenoid, but after he replaced it, it still would occasionally click and not start, turned out to be a problem with his AOD's neutrol saftey switch (the switc that only allows you to start the car in neutrol or park) if its a 5 speed it could be that same switch only its associated with the clutch.
 
yeah i was experiencing the same problem with my car, when i hit the brake it just clicked thats it, It turned out to be the solenoid, but i would check the nuetral start switch also. With my car i would hit the brake a good 5 or 10 times and it would turn over, so if your does that i it most likely to be the solenoid.
<Also if your firm ride is blinking 3 times it is the passenger side front actuator. do what scott said with the WD-40 and it will work like new!>
 
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Hi Everyone,
Thanks again for the help. It ended up being a lose screw that hold the solenoid to the starter, so the connection wasn't always there. Still working on the blinking firm ride problem.
Thanks again.
 
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