The rest of the notes.
I posted the IC tube removal/install earlier today. Here's a copy of some previous posts on the engine mounts themselves.
TbirdSCFan:
Whew. Just did mine last weekend.. what a JOB! I found no way around this, but basically I took eveything off the Driver side: wiper arms and driver side cowling [I'll explain later], washer reservoir, upper IC tube, IC, pwr steering pump pulley, coil pack, alternator, psp bracket, lower IC tube. Then went to work on the 5 bolts. I wasn't able to get enough leverage without getting parts out of the way. The through bolt was really tight (almost broke a 13mm 3/8 socket on it). Probably around 120 lbs or so. If you use a swivel, extensions, and breaker bar, you can get the back bolt off from behind the subframe without having to remove the steering rag joint. The wheel needs to come off to get enough room to get to it.
For the passenger side, It was tricky, but same basic thing. Took the A/C compressor bracket off. Here's the trick: DON'T take the SC belt off until AFTER you remove the 2 bracket bolts to the right of the tensioner pulley. Then remove both belts and the idler pulley, unbolt and tie off the compressor, move the coolant reservoir out of the way. Oh yeah take the air cleaner and intake tube off. Then take the bracket off. Now, you'll have enough room to get to all the mount bolts on the front side. I DID break the 13mm socket on the through bolt on that side. Damm but those were tight. The rear bolt was just like the driver side. It wasn't necessary to remove the starter.
You'll need to jack up the engine to get the motor mount pieces out and the new ones back in. This is why you need to remove the cowling. Be sure to place a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan so you don't crack it.
Thats about it. Getting the IC tubes back on requires finesse. One hint on the IC tubes.. Don't tighten any bolts/nuts securely until its almost reassembled. Leave some wiggle room.
I'm in the process of writing up exactly how I did the job.
As for you super mechanics who can do the job without taking parts off, I salute you. It wouldn't have been possible for me to get enough leverage to remove the bolts otherwise.
Some of those bolts were very tight.
TbirdSCFan:
From the comments I've heard about the knock sensor, and the starter it leads me to believe that the passenger side has some different things from the various years. On the 90 model, the passenger side is a breeze and you won't need to bend or remove really anything. The starter is way back away from the mount, and the shield is not in the way at all.
In retrospect, I really think it is doable on the passenger side without removing the compressor bracket. I found out when I regreased my plug boots the other day and crammed my arm way up to reach the #1 boot (my arm was sore from it), but the 3 front bolts (2 on the block and the 1 through bolt) are accessible. Its a blind shot though and no way without extensions and swivels.
Also for me, it wasn't really a waste of time, I was replacing the plugs, tightening the valve covers, and doing some cleanup. And with the stuff out of the way, getting the bolts back in wasn't a hard task because you could see them.
When you remove the mount from the bracket, you'll need a vise or what I used was a Black-n-Decker Workmate as the big nut is on there pretty good.
Revised 11/9/02
Pass side:
1. Remove air cleaner top and rubber intake tube from air cleaner and throttle body.
2. Remove coolant reservoir bolts and move the tank out of the way.
3. Unbolt compressor (4 bolts) and tie it up and out of the way.
4. Loosen the plastic cowling beneath the winshield on the drivers side. This is to allow the engine to be raised up without cracking it.
4. Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger wheel, jack up the car and support with a jack stand. Remove wheel.
5. Place the jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan to keep from cracking or bending the oil pan. Jack the engine up slightly.
6. Loosen the 2 frontside upper bracket nuts/studs/bolts. You'll need deep sockets for these.
7. Loosen the the through bolt holding the lower bracket to the subframe with a 13mm 1/2" drive 6sided socket and a breaker bar. (If you don't have the socket, go buy one as this bolt is very tight and will shatter a 3/8" drive).
8. Using extensions and a swivel and 6sided 15mm socket and breaker bar also, remove the rear upper bracket bolt from under the car. This is why you removed the wheel. Finish removing all the bolts.
9. The mount should now be loose. Jack the engine up some more to gain clearance. Watch the plastic cowling to be sure it isn't damaged. To remove the mount, tilt/twist it around until the 2 10mm bolts on the bottom are accessible. Remove them and take the 2 halves and mount remnants out.
10. Take the upper bracket/mount to a vise or workbench, and remove the large nut holding it to the top bracket.
11. Install the new mount onto both brackets such that the limiter arm is centered side to side. Torque the top nut securly.
12. Now remove the 2 10mm bolts again and insert the 2 halves under the engine. Bolt the bottom 2 10mm bracket bolts back on and tighen securly.
13. Lower the engine to where the bolt holes line up, insert all bolts and tighten raising and lowering the engine as necessary. Torque the through bolt to around 80 lbs. Tighten the others securely.
14. lower the engine completely, put the wheel back on, lower the car, reinstall the compressor being careful NOT to overtighten those bolts as the bracket is soft metal (20lbs tops), reinstall everything else and test it out.
Hope this helps.