Need help with motor mounts

Tim Moore

Registered User
I can't find a step by step procedure for replacing motor mounts under the search menu. Does anyone know where this info is or have any info on what the procedure is. Thanks
 
basicallly open the hood and remove the wiper cowls and place a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood. Then using regular and deep 15mm and 1/2" sockets with a swivel and extensions remove the nuts and bolts thru the wheel well openings, remove both wheels. Ont the passenger side remove the knock sensor using a large combination wrench or socket.
 
really

well ive done anything like that before i have to have it done soon, i cant even get my oil filter out, if it thiss easy i will do it myself, what are some problems i could run in to, i really hope that it is this easy. ill do it,
let me know,

Matt
 
having the whole motormount stud spin with the battery ground cable and tearing it. The knock sensor being stuck or damaged when removing, not being able to access the mount bolts by using a u-joint(use a black impact style u-joint, has a ball/joint), using really short extensions that dont reach). You can also do it from the top by removing the accessory brackets, but you might need to remove the power steeering pump pulley with a special puller. Another way is to support the engine and drop the subframe.
 
If you don't regularly work on the car, DO NOT attempt the engine mount job. For the novice, it is too easy to round off a bolt and can be a frustrating job. In terms of difficulty, its about a 7 or 8 on a scale of 10 in terms of difficulty. An oil change is about a 2.
 
not really, stick a rag in it and swap it over ASAP:D(or just thread the bung back in without the shield) , usually only lose a cup or two at most;) .
 
Well ive done more then just change the oil, i put on new rptors and pads and caliers, and super charges fuild, i got some tools, could i get the list of tools i will need, and pics if any one has them of the knock senor and mopunts ans stuff, i know what the mounts look like, just want to make sure, though, and is it that easy for both sides, just the wheels and splash sheild in the well, ??? ill be doing this on thrusady so, any help would be great
 
Oh brother :rolleyes: .. Give me a day or so.. and I'll repost my notes.. After reading up, you can decide if you still want to try it.

As far as tools you'll need:

Hydraulic Jack
Jack stands (2 ea)
A piece of 2x4 or some soft wood about 1/2"x1'x1'
3/8" drive metric socket set with multiple extensions and swivel
1/2" drive ratchet with 1/2-3/8 adapter.
1/2" drive extension(s)
13mm 1/2" drive shallow socket (not that common you may have to go to Sears to find it).
Torque wrench
Breaker bar or cheater bar
Bench mounted vise or a Workmate
1 big socket whose size I can't recall for the nut securing the mount to the upper bracket. (help me out here guys)
Power steering pump pulley puller. (Can be borrowed from most car parts stores).
Copper ATV sealant (you are going to need to remove the IC tubes, plan on it)

This is a good time to swap out spark plugs and wires if you need them.
About all I can recall off the top of my head for now.
:)
 
It is A LOT easier if you remove both accesory brackets. However, this adds a considerable amount of time to the whole project. I'm not very handy with the wrenches, so I opted to go that route. If you're more confident in your skills, though, it is possible to remove the mounts without removing much else.
Good luck.
 
The rest of the notes.

I posted the IC tube removal/install earlier today. Here's a copy of some previous posts on the engine mounts themselves.

TbirdSCFan:

Whew. Just did mine last weekend.. what a JOB! I found no way around this, but basically I took eveything off the Driver side: wiper arms and driver side cowling [I'll explain later], washer reservoir, upper IC tube, IC, pwr steering pump pulley, coil pack, alternator, psp bracket, lower IC tube. Then went to work on the 5 bolts. I wasn't able to get enough leverage without getting parts out of the way. The through bolt was really tight (almost broke a 13mm 3/8 socket on it). Probably around 120 lbs or so. If you use a swivel, extensions, and breaker bar, you can get the back bolt off from behind the subframe without having to remove the steering rag joint. The wheel needs to come off to get enough room to get to it.

For the passenger side, It was tricky, but same basic thing. Took the A/C compressor bracket off. Here's the trick: DON'T take the SC belt off until AFTER you remove the 2 bracket bolts to the right of the tensioner pulley. Then remove both belts and the idler pulley, unbolt and tie off the compressor, move the coolant reservoir out of the way. Oh yeah take the air cleaner and intake tube off. Then take the bracket off. Now, you'll have enough room to get to all the mount bolts on the front side. I DID break the 13mm socket on the through bolt on that side. Damm but those were tight. The rear bolt was just like the driver side. It wasn't necessary to remove the starter.

You'll need to jack up the engine to get the motor mount pieces out and the new ones back in. This is why you need to remove the cowling. Be sure to place a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan so you don't crack it.
Thats about it. Getting the IC tubes back on requires finesse. One hint on the IC tubes.. Don't tighten any bolts/nuts securely until its almost reassembled. Leave some wiggle room.
I'm in the process of writing up exactly how I did the job.

As for you super mechanics who can do the job without taking parts off, I salute you. It wouldn't have been possible for me to get enough leverage to remove the bolts otherwise.
Some of those bolts were very tight.


TbirdSCFan:

From the comments I've heard about the knock sensor, and the starter it leads me to believe that the passenger side has some different things from the various years. On the 90 model, the passenger side is a breeze and you won't need to bend or remove really anything. The starter is way back away from the mount, and the shield is not in the way at all.

In retrospect, I really think it is doable on the passenger side without removing the compressor bracket. I found out when I regreased my plug boots the other day and crammed my arm way up to reach the #1 boot (my arm was sore from it), but the 3 front bolts (2 on the block and the 1 through bolt) are accessible. Its a blind shot though and no way without extensions and swivels.

Also for me, it wasn't really a waste of time, I was replacing the plugs, tightening the valve covers, and doing some cleanup. And with the stuff out of the way, getting the bolts back in wasn't a hard task because you could see them.

When you remove the mount from the bracket, you'll need a vise or what I used was a Black-n-Decker Workmate as the big nut is on there pretty good.



Revised 11/9/02
Pass side:
1. Remove air cleaner top and rubber intake tube from air cleaner and throttle body.
2. Remove coolant reservoir bolts and move the tank out of the way.
3. Unbolt compressor (4 bolts) and tie it up and out of the way.
4. Loosen the plastic cowling beneath the winshield on the drivers side. This is to allow the engine to be raised up without cracking it.
4. Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger wheel, jack up the car and support with a jack stand. Remove wheel.
5. Place the jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan to keep from cracking or bending the oil pan. Jack the engine up slightly.
6. Loosen the 2 frontside upper bracket nuts/studs/bolts. You'll need deep sockets for these.
7. Loosen the the through bolt holding the lower bracket to the subframe with a 13mm 1/2" drive 6sided socket and a breaker bar. (If you don't have the socket, go buy one as this bolt is very tight and will shatter a 3/8" drive).
8. Using extensions and a swivel and 6sided 15mm socket and breaker bar also, remove the rear upper bracket bolt from under the car. This is why you removed the wheel. Finish removing all the bolts.
9. The mount should now be loose. Jack the engine up some more to gain clearance. Watch the plastic cowling to be sure it isn't damaged. To remove the mount, tilt/twist it around until the 2 10mm bolts on the bottom are accessible. Remove them and take the 2 halves and mount remnants out.
10. Take the upper bracket/mount to a vise or workbench, and remove the large nut holding it to the top bracket.

11. Install the new mount onto both brackets such that the limiter arm is centered side to side. Torque the top nut securly.
12. Now remove the 2 10mm bolts again and insert the 2 halves under the engine. Bolt the bottom 2 10mm bracket bolts back on and tighen securly.
13. Lower the engine to where the bolt holes line up, insert all bolts and tighten raising and lowering the engine as necessary. Torque the through bolt to around 80 lbs. Tighten the others securely.
14. lower the engine completely, put the wheel back on, lower the car, reinstall the compressor being careful NOT to overtighten those bolts as the bracket is soft metal (20lbs tops), reinstall everything else and test it out.

Hope this helps.
 
Back
Top