ABS lights?

90xr7reborn

Registered User
I am putting together a cat for my wife and when i bought it the abs lights were on. I thought it was the brakes just wore but when i pulled the wheels, the brakes are fine. When i put my foot to the floor the red brake light comes on also. What should i look for first? Any input would be appreciative thanks...Bill
 
Hi, Bill.

I just went through a minor problem with my ABS on my 35th and read some other posts on this. The ABS guys are probably watching like a hawk, heh heh, but here's what I think you might do. First when you first turn on the car, the pump should power up and then quit thus pressurizing the system. Start the car and sit there. You should see the amber antilock light and the red brake light stay on for just a few seconds. Mine take almost 20 seconds but then finally both go out. If the amber light stays on, there's a problem. You can check the codes from the test connector located in the trunk, passenger side behind the carpet liner right at the wheel well. There should be a connector with a cover clipped to the weld seam.

If you press the brake and the red light comes on, I'd check fluid and reservoir. Also with the engine off and key on, press the brake pedal about 8 times or so. If you get the lights to come on about the fifth time, I am thinking this tells you the accumulator is okay.

This is all just off the top of my head as I am not an ABS expert at all. Just listened to the ones who have been there. Hopefully someone else will pick this up and help you better. The codes will help you a lot though.

Good luck on your problem. Have a great week.
 
The system pressurizes ok but the lights stay on and the fluid level is good. I am finishing up putting a motor in the car. I took the car for a spin around the block and the brakes seem to work fine, just the lights won't go out. I don't have a code reader and it's not licenced yet, so i can't take it to autozone to get the codes read. Are there any plugs or sensors i should visually check that are not obvious. The kid who had the car before me had stuff torn apart everywhere. The amp rack was completely out and disconnected from everything when i bought it and i plugged everything in yesterday. I'm on vacation for a couple of weeks and am trying to finish it up. Thanks...Bill
 
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i had the same problem, but my abs wasnt working, b/c when i came to a sudden stop the tires would slide and screech to a stop. i read a couple thrrads and found out it was my relays needed replaces. the relays are located on the passengerside firewall crammed in the corner. if i can remember the relays were only 11.00 bux from ford.
 
Replacing the ABS pump motor relay might fix the problem, but might not. If you can hear the pump motor run regularly and shut off, then you know at least 2 things that are working: the pump motor, the pump motor relay, and 1 thing which is at least partially working: the pressure switch.

90xr7reborn, You state that it pressurizes currectly.. What were the results of the KOEO test? If you can tell us how long and how often the pump motor runs and the precise pattern of the lights, maybe we can point you to the problem.
 
The pump runs for about 5-10 sec then shuts off. the abs light comes on with ignition then stays on even after pump shuts off. depress brake peddle to the floor and then red brake light comes on...Bill
 
The pump runs for about 5-10 sec then shuts off. the abs light comes on with ignition then stays on even after pump shuts off.
This tells you that the relays are not the problem: ABS computer lights the yellow ABS light, therefore the ABS power relay must be working. The pump runs an shuts off, therefore the ABS pump motor relay must be working.
depress brake peddle to the floor and then red brake light comes on...
When this happens, does the pump kick in again? This is easier to tell if the engine is not running. Also, pedal to floor is not normal; you should probably thorougly bleed the brakes if you haven't done so. All 4 wheels in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF. The 2 rear calipers will require the key be turn to the run position to keep the accumulator charged. The 2 front calipers can be bled with the key turned off.
 
the pump doesn't kick back in after the peddle goes to the floor.I will try bleeding them this afternoon and let you know how i make out. Thanks a ton...BIll
 
90xr,

I had this same problem this past spring. Since you already did the relay and pump test, go ahead and bleed the brakes. See if that helps. If not, do the driveway test to determine if your accumulator is working correctly. This test is turn the ignition to on, but don't start the car. Listen for the pump to start and shut off. Once it shuts off, pump the brake pedal until the pump starts again. If you press the brake pedal two or less times, then your accumulator might be going out. Mine only went for two pumps, so I changed out the accumulator. I did the driveway test again and still had the same results. Only two pumps of the pedal until the pump started again. So the only thing it could be was an internal leak in the master cylinder, or I think it's the main bore cylinder. Anyway, I sent it off to Prior Remanufacture, you can look them up on the WEB. They had it rebuilt and back to me in 10 days. Cost about $450 I think. Try the driveway test.

Hope this helps, good luck.
Greg
 
I noticed while I was working on it today that the pump comes on everytime i hit the brake peddle (didn't notice before, sorry). When I pump it up, the pump comes on and my peddle goes down slowly, so i have a leak somewhere. So am I looking at a master cylinder? Or is there somewhere else to look first? there is no fluid around the master cylinder so I would think it has to be air leaking. I was by myself today so i couldn't press the peddle and look under the hood at the same time to see anything( my 2 yr old isn't much help in these matters:) )...Bill
 
If the pedal is leaking down, that usually indicates either a fluid leak, or lots of air in the lines. Definitely try bleeding the lines before you do much else.

It sounds like your ABS accumulator has worn out. This is very common. They wear out after about 10 years of service.
 
90xr,

Since the pump comes on every time you push on the brake pedal, it is either one of three things.

First, I would go and bleed the brakes, as outlined above. You will need some assistance when doing this. Then do the driveway test. If the pump still turns on after you push on the brake pedal less than two time, then I would change out the accumulator.

Once you changed the accumulator out, do the driveway test again. If you have the same results, then I would pull the master cylinder off and send it to Prior Remanufacture to have it rebuilt. Tell them that you have a new accumulator on it and they will not charge you to replace.

I wouldn't drive it around too much in its current condition because you will then burn out the pump motor and or relays. .

Good luck
 
If the Accumulator is original the the ABS unit, then go ahead and replace it. If it hasn't failed, it will. They only last around 8 to 10-yrs. Prior will supply you with one for around $100.00(US). Go ahead and bleed the system now. Replacing the accumulator does not cause you to "re-bleed" the system.
 
abs

Bill, it may sound funny but you may just want to replace your ignition switch, very easy and cheap to do... my car sat for months because going down the road one day i lost my pedal and abs light came on, eventually i pulled it in to my garage, when i shut the car off and started it repediately i realized my key had a little play in it....bam $10 later it's perfect...good luck...Brian
 
how about this, my abs light is on all the time, I have replace the master cylander and did an entire brake job on the car, the light still goes on, every now and then the light will go out but then I loose brake power, that is scary when you drive like I do, any ideas as to what is causing this????
 
I bled the brakes to no avail, same symptoms. which is the accumulator? is that the black ball looking piece under the master cylinder? Could it be the brake switch on the peddle? All you do is touch the peddle lightly and the pump comes on? ...Bill
 
Nope. The pedal switch activates the rear brake lights and (for certain years) engages the starter interrupt relay for the starter circuit. If you're hearing the pump run with every pedal press, you need to replace the accumulator which is the black steel ball thing. They run about $100 from priorreman and about $250 from Ford. The Ford part is easier to install as it has a hex fitting on the top. The prior unit has a big nut on the bottom instead; this is because prior reman sells whole rebuilt hydraulic control units and they assemble them on a bench.

If you decide to get the Ford motorcraft unit, you need to remove it first before placing the order as there are 2 different fitting lengths. I have the part #s if you need them.

I'll let Larry or someone give you the contact information for prior as he has used them before. I replaced mine with the Ford part.
 
I just finished removing the accumulator. After I took the resevoir off I put my finger over the tube going in to pump and it didn't have any vacuum when I turned the ignition on. After I had it out and plugged it in The pump seemed to be working becouse it pushed fluid out and had vacuum on the other side. I did notice some seapage on the primary resevoir seal. Could it just be i need new seals (and a resevoir becouse I broke it getting it out). I miss old brakes they were so much easier...Bill


After I wrote this i was going to pick my daughter up from school and realized that I didn't need to take the pump off that the accumulator would screw off, hence the allen fitting in the top. The things you realize after doing it the long/wrong way.
 
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have one ?

is this xr7 white? if it is did you find it behind a garage with the brake system on the seat
 
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