Door Lock Mechanism

ilusnforc

Registered User
I'm doing this on a '92 Thunderbird LX 3.8L V6. I want to take out the power door lock mechanism and attach it to the bar that runs to the door handle inside the car so that when you enter the code on the keypad the door pops open, then i can shave the door handles and just have the keypad on the drivers door. I'm trying this on the passenger side door right now, but at the very bottom corner towards the back of the door the bar that comes vertically out of the lockin motor bends like a hook where it attaches to a plastic lever that unlocks the door. Does anyone know how to get that out?? or just to take out the door locking motor?? any other info or tips would be useful... thanks.
 
Your not going to be able to do it that way, you will need a much stronger motor like a trunk solenoid for the door and leave the stock one in place. Then you will need a delay between the time the door unlocks and the actuator pops the door open, or else it ends up like your girlfriend trying to open the door while you are trying to unlock it.

Jeff
 
hey Jeff, i was saying to use the door lock motor on the bar form the door handle inside the car, because even if the doors are locked you can still open the door from inside the car. Also i wanted to shave the door handles, that way nobody will be able to be pulling on them at all. So, with the door handles shaved then you dont even need to worry about locking the doors at all, because there is no handle to open it with, all you do is punch in the code and the doors pop open. And like you said, i wasnt sure if the motor would be strong enough, might need to buy the 30lbs poppers or find another type of motor...? thanks
 
You can use a trunk popper, but I haven't had much luck with them, they fail after about 5-6 months. I use Auto Loc brand ones now. there is a $99 that is overkill, but I haven't had one come back yet.

Jeff
 
I have installed about 25 systems with shaved door handles. I always keep the door locks active and add some features that most people don't.

You need a way to get in even if your battery dies. I use a piece of fishing leader wire and run it inside the door and out to the fender area. This line has a loop at the end so you can grab it and pull it in case the solenoid fails. The other end goes to the rod that actually opens the door. On the SC you will need one of those little pulleys that you can get at a hardware store for small cables and such. The SC rod has to move from the front of the car to the rear of the car so you use the pulley to change direction. The leader line slides inside a plastic tube jacket, like the type used for air line in industrial applications. Then you tuck the coil behind the plastic fender well. Most people think that you can simply pull on the line to get into the car that’s where the door locks come in. Other people will say what if the battery goes dead. Well so what if it does. If you have shaved door handles then you are screwed anyway, but no wait, all you have to do is get a wrecker driver to slim jim the car and you can get into it at least. Or you have to know how to break into your own car. Use a quality actuator that Auto Loc will do the job. I did a system using a photoeye mounted facing out the windsheild up in the corner. That was pretty neat, my friend Chuck got looks every time he got into the car waving his hand in front of the windsheild to pop open the door. I used the negative armed output of the alarm as a interlock to keep someone from walking up and jacking with the car, so basically when I disarmed the alarm it allowed the photoeye to work. We had a light freeze that year and covered the top of his car with frost and when he tried to disarm the alarm, as soon as the alarm disarmed the door would open which gives the same effect described above. You can’t anticipate everything.

Jeff
 
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