Voltage Problum

NorthrnSCownr

Registered User
So I drove my car a mile down the road to a friends house to pick up something, and left my car idling. Maybe at most 10 min later, I went back to the car, and put it into reverse (auto) and it stalled. The dash lights went dim, and when I tried to start it, there was a clicking noise with no response from the starter. <p>
I shut it off, and jumped it from my friends truck, started fine, and I then deove it around at high rpm's for a few minutes , brought her home, and shut her off. <p>
....(back in time) About a week and a half ago, I went out to the car and there was absolutly nothing. No light at all. No response AT ALL when I turned the key. I was pretty sure I had not left anything on, and doors were shut. I am not sure what caused the drain. <p>I hooked up a small charger to the battery for over 24 hours, until it was fully charged. The car seemed back to normal. While I was at work I had a friend tested the voltage two days straight, and was told everything was normal. It sat a few days, and still started fine, and ran good as well. <p> I am not sure if he checked the voltage corectly or not, but it seems to me to be an alternator problum, or the voltage regulator. I will have to wait a couple days before I can test it myself. Any input is appreciated as always....
 
You need 2 things to determine the problem precisely. 1st is a bulb type battery electrolyte tester. These are dirt cheap at any autopart store. 2nd thing is a voltmeter. Any cheap voltmeter should work.
Pry the cover(s) off the battery and determine the state of the charge for each of the 6 cells. Make sure each cell has enough fluid to cover the plates. Charge it up if its less than full.
However, if its at least half charged, you can go ahead and first check the running voltage. With the car running at idle, turn the voltmeter to DC volt range for at least 20 volts. Measure from across each battery post. Red lead to the positive post, black to the negative post. Be sure to get on the post part of the battery itself, not the clamps. This should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

If it reads in that range, then your alternator and its internal regulator are working correctly, and your connections are in good shape. If it reads 12 or less, then either the alternator is shot or the connections are loose. Clean the battery cables and posts with steel wool and check it again. Also check that the alternator connectors are secure and fully plugged in. They can work loose.

If everything checks out, go ahead and finish charging the battery for at least 24 hours, and check the electrolyte (battery fluid) again. This fluid is an acid, so try not to get any on your clothes and wipe up, or thoroughly wash off any that might spill. If the battery won't charge up, its the problem. After charging it up, you can take it to a auto parts store and have it tested for free.

Hope this helps.
 
Thank you, that is helpful. I don't think my battery is the fluid type however, but I should be able to use the same procedure anyway I presume. <P>How much does a good alternator cost, not a NAPA special, but a higher end job, and where is a good source for one? TYVM
 
Wish I knew. I'm bought the Autozone lifetime curse for $130. I'd check Napa first and find out if they have a new one. If they have trouble finding a listing for one, the model is the Mitsubishi 110A internally regulated alternator with an 8 grove pulley. Autozone's Duralast P/N is 14498, but I'd not recommend it unless you're up a creek and need it quick.. but then there's the curse.

The curse is that most of the rebuilt brands (from all the discount chain stores) use substandard diode bridges and/or regulators which will usually fail within a month or so. With the curse, you can't return it because it has a lifetime warranty, they just give you another one instead! Of course you have to PROVE that it failed and they don't just break, they go on/off at odd times until they eventually leave you stranded with a dead battery... that's the curse. You have to argue at length with the store manager to get them to take their POS back and they'll try to blame it on anything else with YOUR car.

Insist on a high speed/high load test if they give you any crap. Of course, they can't perform such a test there with their wimpy little spin bench. If they can't/won't do it, demand that they refund both your money and your core to you so that you can go purchase a good one elsewhere.
 
trace the wires, my SC kept shutting off after like 30 minutes of driving and wouldnt crank, and i would jump it and go maybe 15 minutes till it shutoff again....i replaced the alternator and still did it...i traced the wiring and the inline fuse was blown i put a wire connector on and it was fine. the wire fuse is on the drivers side fender connecting to that black round thing. it says fusable link on the wire. worth a try?
 
*laughing out loud!!<P> Man I hear that loud and clear! I certainly don't need that kind of BS. I have enough troubles already! <P> There is a pretty good parts store near me who may be able to help, and I'll look around on the web as well. <P> I have noticed that these Birds require an awful lot of juice, with all of the pumps, lights, bells, and whistles that operate with a turn of the key. And once I put a stereo system in, it'll be even worse. Thus my desire for a high quality alternator. Even if I have to pay a lot for it, I think it'll be worth it. Thanks again for your help TBIRDSCFAN, much appreciated,
Tom
 
OK... I hooked the Voltmeter up to my car today at idle, and it showed an 11.9 <p>
I then brought the RPM's up to 2000 + and the lights brightened, and the Voltmeter read 14.9 and stayed there. <P> It is my understanding that for some reason my charging system doesn't kick in until 2000 RPM or so. Is this a common phenomenon? When I had driven to my friends house last nightit was about 10 degrees, so I babied it there, and then sitting at idle, it never had a chance to reach 2000 RPM's or start charging. Any words of wisdom??
 
Back
Top