...and she just keeps on stallin'

Just looking for a few suggestions as to what my problem may be...what to fix next.

What it's doing: it'll run fine for the most part but on occasion (more so lately) it will die down to 500 or less RPM's if not completely die out. The motor will tach out when you give it gas, but it sounds like it's still missing and only running on 5 cylinders. The CE light comes on. If I leave it in gear, shut the engine down and turn it back over, it'll run fine again.

What I've done so far: replaced 4 of the 6 spark plugs (the only one I could get at on the passenger side was the middle one), replaced the wires (accel 9000's), replaced the TPS, coolant temp sensor, both O2 sensors and the AIT sensor. I've tried to run a scan on it but after analyzing data the scan tool reads "connection error". ECM? I'm getting 30lbs of pressure at the fuel rail so I don't think it's a fuel issue.

Bad coil? Bad idle air control motor? Ignition control module?

I don't know where to go from here.

Spark plugs

You would be surprised how many times over the years people did the same as you and replaced 4 of 6 plugs. If it seems like your running on less than 6, You probably are. Replace all the plugs. The easiest way to get at the front plug on the pass side is to remove the airbox and intake tube, then remome your accessory belt, then remove the 4 bolts holding the Air Conditioning commpressor and pushing it as far forward as you can. Be careful not to bend the A/C lines as you might cause a leak. To get the rear, put the car on jack stands(safety first), then reach between the cat convertor and the frame and you should be able to get the rear out. It would be a good idea to replace the wires now while your at it. This will probably clear it up. Also gap the plugs to about 35 thousanths. Don't waste your money on platinum your plugs should be changed way before the electrode will ever wear. I recommend Motorcraft AWSF 34C plugs.

By the way don't remove the lines from the A/C comp. that would be illegal

I've changed the wires already, put on Accel 9000's.

I'll tackel those last two plugs this weekend, it is for sure a priority on my "to do" list. Good point, thank you. I just feel there is more of a problem than only bad plugs. If I were only running on 5, wouldn't it be consistant and not just when the car feels tempermental?

Would you take a look at this thread? You seem to have great troubleshooting suggestions from what I've read so far!

Thanks again!

*bump*

...in hopes that I can get a few more suggestions.

Thanks everyone!

I had a rough idle and a miss in my TB. I replaced the injectors and it completely fixed the problem.
I would say that if the check engine light doesn't come on, it is probably a couple of dirty injectors. I have never directly attributed a rough idle to a bad water or air temp sensor. If you have a dirty air temp sensor the you would have reduced power and the check engine light would come on, but the idle would remain smooth.

Do you have spark in all cylinders?? Check this by unplugging one plug wire at a time, then insert an extra plug and ground it on the engine. This sould yield a spark or an answer to your questions.

As long as you have fuel pressure, spark, and no internal engine failures it is probably the injectors.

Your best bet is to remove your injectors and find a place that can test your at a good price. Rebuilt injectors run for about $56 each.

The only other thing I can think of is a blown head gasket. As you may have noticed, these cars eat HG's for breakfast. Coolant could be seaping into the compustion chamber. To find out if this is the problem: check for oil contamination, reduce compression in certain cylinders, or constantly lowering coolant level.

Good Luck!!

I had a rough idle and a miss in my TB. I replaced the injectors and it completely fixed the problem.
I would say that if the check engine light doesn't come on, it is probably a couple of dirty injectors. I have never directly attributed a rough idle to a bad water or air temp sensor. If you have a dirty air temp sensor the you would have reduced power and the check engine light would come on, but the idle would remain smooth.

Do you have spark in all cylinders?? Check this by unplugging one plug wire at a time, then insert an extra plug and ground it on the engine. This sould yield a spark or an answer to your questions.

As long as you have fuel pressure, spark, and no internal engine failures it is probably the injectors.

Your best bet is to remove your injectors and find a place that can test your at a good price. Rebuilt injectors run for about $56 each.

The only other thing I can think of is a blown head gasket. As you may have noticed, these cars eat HG's for breakfast. Coolant could be seaping into the compustion chamber. To find out if this is the problem: check for oil contamination, reduce compression in certain cylinders, or constantly lowering coolant level.

Good Luck!!

Platinum plugs are a MUST!!!!!!

People tend to think that a few dollars is OK to skimp on. The stock plug IS the AWSF34PP due to the boosted motor. Spark plugs do wear and increase in gap over time. The double platinum plugs are about 4.00 a piece or $24.00.

A small price to pay for PEAK performance...


Don

these are the plugs i used....only motorcraft as far as that was concerened...just gettin 1 on the passenger side was the issue, not the plug