I'm Alive but car is wacky!!

Lugen

Registered User
Car is still wacky!! UPDATE

LTNS,
Been busy with kids sports work.. Anyway went to take the SC for a spin ( I do so once a month or so in the winter)
Drove kids to school all is fine got on Highway and Sputter, Bang RPMS Drop then surge. I get it off the Highway on a few min from my home. Stalls out in my Driveway.. Was wierd out of the blue the car was running fine for about 15, 20 min? I put in park check wires and a quick look for leaks .. nothing I alread did the "DiS" 1 1/2 yrs ago as with the Cam Stator, The Crank sensor was done 2 yrs ago. NO CODES!! I pulled the MAF sensor off and It thru a Check Engine so the bulb is good..Any takers? IAC? Saddam Hussien??
Lee
 
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I'm Alive but car is

How old is your fuel and how much was in the tank? I'd replace the fuel filter and get a fill-up of high octane fuel from a new gas station. Maybe you have a clogged filter or moisture in the tank. good luck
P.S. George W. would drop a bomb on it.
 
Hi,
No noticable wobble on the crank pulley. Plug Wires seem fine. I did however had a hell of a time starting it and when it did it shook,coughed, wheezed,backfired and lots of rich black smoke out the ***. Almost like it was running on 3 cylinders. Too cold to do anything now I may have to wait till spring. I'm hoping its coil pack or module again.

Lee
 
Hi,
I have been dying to go out and really give it a once over , IE look at the intercooler tubes pull a wire or plug.
I would fill it up with gas but it stalls with in sec now . I
will at least put in a pint or 2 of fuel deicer/Stabilizer.
It has been in the most part in the teens around here for weeks. I was wondering if it was bad fuel why did it take 15 min to start bucking and banging like that? I will change fuel filter roo but I did that over a year ago also.
I hate to whine and cry but its just to damn cold to do anything yet.
From the majority of post and chats it seems like a fuel delivery or maybe a loose or broken Intercooler/Vacuum problem.
Anyone else I appreciate all angles. As soon as it warms up I'll be checking. For now Stabilizer/Deicer
Lee
:(
 
A heatwave ?

Hi,
Still haven't had a chance to get to check the car .I'm hoping it will break 32 soon.. It actually has gotten colder single digits yesterday.
What I have so far a new filter $10+ 3 pints of drygas.Until this coldsnap breaks I can't do much more.
Lee
 
Update

Made 29 degrees today so in this heatwave I went and checked everything once over.
Crank has NO Wobble at all.. I guess thats good.
Wires/Plugs are all connected. Coil pack seems well spark on each. I put drygas in and Fuel injector cleaner in too. No time for filter No Oil in Coolant and No Coolant in Oil. VERY GOOD !
Ok here is more detail on the missing/Stalling and just plan engine roughness. Smoke (Gray ) is still present Tach is bouncing around a bit .. but Not all over the gauge. If I hold the butterfly it evens out al ittle but not much. NO Codes I had it running for 3 - 5 min. Anyone ?
Dis Cam Crank Sensors? Wires? Plugs Coil PAck? IAC?

remember I still have NO Codes and Check engine light does work.. and I can Force a code via dsconnecting MAF...
Thanks
Lee
 
car is wacky!!

I would check the intake and IC connections for leaks with propane or card cleaner. When mine were loose, it would not even start until I tighten them up. While the engine is idling, spray some at each connection after the MAF, around the SC top & spanner nut as well as top & bottom of the IC. If you notice the idle smooth out when you spray a connection, then thats the one. Remember, most of this stuff is aluminum and will crack if you over tighten them. You want to have balanced pressure on both sides of each connection. good luck
 
ummm take off your radiator cap and checl the fluid level then star twith cap off, then go change them head gaskets. when the anifreeze is gone and the new antifreeze blows out when you start it.

Make sure you leave the cap off when you start it, excessive bubbles in antifreez or just plain shoots everywhere is a giveaway. If you got alot of grey smoke I would bet my life savings you got a blown head gasket. Mine blew so bad once that the antifreeze would runn out the tail pipe as I was pouring it in when it was running.
Then I did it again lol on the other one, wasnt so bad, but ran very ruff hard to start grey smoke, and would crank over very slow at first (hydrolocking)


Or if you are afraid of ruining engine parts just pull the plugs and top off radiator it runs out the spark plug holes quite nicly on these things, seems like when they blow they really blow.


P.s On the 4 sets i've been sucker into and mine also I have never seen the water make it to the oil or vice versa on these engines.
 
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Is the smoke black or grey? big difference if its black check for a screwed injector.

But still bet more towards the headgasket if it's grey smoke.
 
Smoke

Gray !
But no Oil in coolant or coolant in the oil. I almost had my head up the pipes to make sure no sweet antifreeze smell or residue. I even wiped it with a paper towel to check. No visable loss in coolant... but on the chance it is the head gaskets .... anyone want to buy it?
:(
Lee
 
take off the cap and start it up. see what it does go from there.
As I said before I seldom have seen these actually do the water in oil and oil in water with blown head gaskets,

(because it usually blows from a coolant passage into the cylinder bore, there is no oil present, to get in the antifeeze, and you will have to run it awhile to actually get a good amount of antifreeze, plus if you havent drove it very much the oil hasnt mixed with your oil anyways in that case it is sitting in the bottom of you oil pan)

just usually alot of grey smoke, and alot of antifreeze disappearing and air blowing out of the radiator even at idle.

If it is the head gaskets, fix it, you'll only have about 400.00 in the whole job if you do it your self.

Use felpro gaskets, arp head bolts, and have the heads surfaced.
Then sell it........
 
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Good news ...so far

Hi,
Took off my Rad cap and cranked it .. No Geyshers of Antifreeze :) let it rumn a couple of min.
I have my old Cam stator which I swapped when I figured it was my DIS Module.
Fuel filter then I'll try DIS then Crank sensor
Thanks
Lee
 
Crank sensor install ?

Hi,
This may not be the problem but any hints on installing. I read the Article and to me its a little hazy. Ie "Having buddy turning crank" while I check for clearance. I understand it is almost like a strobe(or magnetic impluse) when it gets its reading. So in essence it needs to be spaced so it doesn't hit anything in its revolution correct? So while I check clearence he is rotating it with a breaker bar or socket.. Or am I better just taking the thing to a shop to install it? After I check out other componets.
Thanks
Lee

PS

Also Heat Sink Compound for the DIS where to get ?
I have a spare Cam Stator I'll test with too after I look at the Vac/Intercooler tubes, Wires and Plugs
 
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Basicaly just make sure it doesnt hit, try to have the same amount on both sides, and be carefull not to break the bolt getting it out, if it's older it might be a little hard, you might want to add some blaster or wd 40 first. They are easy to do, install it then check it by turning motor very slowly over watching for interference.
 
As by hand very very slowly watching the whole time. very slow best to have a friend or wife(lol) do it with a 1/2 drive breaker bar(nice to see a pretty woman bent over the front of supercoupe, with a smudge of grease on her jeans......WHOA cought myself lol.
 
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