Super Dilemma

I

IGot6UGot8

Registered User
Okay, here's my problem. I've got a stock '91 auto that has just had the head gaskets redone. The car is quick for it's size, but I got beat bad by my brothers '87 Chrysler Conquest (all stock except for a 1G MAS and 20G turbo). I went and bought a Conquest to fix up, and had planned on selling the bird. Now I'm contemplating keeping the bird. My question is, what kind of cash would it take to get this car in the range to compete with these smaller turbo cars. I'm guessing he's in the low 14 to high 13 range. I know I need open exhaust, but what cheap mods can be done to our cars?

thanks
Jake
 
welp...

Well, this car wasn't only designed for quickness. It also has a lot of comfort, handling, and you will own a car not many other people have. I can tell you I have a 91 Auto. I ran at the 1/4 track a few times and I have ran a 14.8 @ 94mph. I had a cat-back exhaust system (no headers or ported manifolds). I have a ZR cold air intake and an 10% OD pulley. To run high 13's low 14's is going to require some more bolt ons. If you added some gears (3.73's recommended), have a FULL exhaust (including the headers), shift kit, and have your heads ported/polished I would presume that would get you close along with the mods I have. I would say you would be in the 14.1~14.3 but i could be wrong. I think others could better give you an estimate on price and what the minimum need is.
 
You're talking probably 300-350 rwhp. Definately exhaust, if you're looking more towards 350 headers if less than that ported manifolds will work. You'll also need most of the bolt ons (Check out www.supercoupeperformance.com or www.bluetoungmotorsports) ported blower, ported inlet, ported heads/lower intake, 75+mm TB, 75+mm MAFS (I'd probably go with the 90 mm Lightning MAFS) you may need higher flow injectors and will probably need a higher flow fuel pump. All that and a 10% O/D pulley should get you at least close. Then again, if you've got 7500 to put into this, you could get a CMRE Stage 2. They run around 400hp with stock intake. Headers, exhaust and injectors/fuel pump needed though.
 
Gears

If you don't mind high RPM highway cruising you could even go with 4.10 gears. There is also a way to change the gear ratio in your tranny (I did) Also a High stall convertor will get you to peak torque alot quicker. P/M for details or Email
 
I'm trying to weigh my options. If I build the t-bird, I'm looking at between $2-3K to get it in the low 14's. I'll have a quick car that is still very comfortable on trips and practical. Sound about right?

I'm looking at:

Exhaust $400
Fuel pump 100
Injectors 250
Intake goodies 1500-2000

On the other hand, I build up this '89 Conquest. I can have it as quick (or quicker) for about 2/3 the cost. I will have a car that makes most people say "what the hell is that thing", but won't have the space and luxury that I do with my bird.

Also, I'd like some opinions on 5spd or built auto. Do the SC's respond better to the manual?

Jake
 
Injector shuldn't be required. That money would probably go better toward gears or more bolt ons. Check out the Top SC's list. Most of the SC's in the low 14's are around 275 hp. Injectors aren't necessary until about 300

A good auto will give you a more consistent time also, but for me there is no replacement for a stick. But a good stick (T-5) would run around 4k to do and requires modification.
 
Where are you?

Where do you live? The mods I listed in my signature added no power, but I ran in the mid fifteens with 82K miles
 
Also, I know an auto is better on a turbocharged car to allow the turbo to remain spooled up during an upshift. Can the same philosophy be related to a supercharged car? I've always wanted a 5spd, but if I'm going for speed then auto probably would be best.
 
As I said the auto is more consistent. You don't have to be a great driver to get a good run with one.

I doubt the turbo effect you're talking about applys. The SC needs to blow off and you don't have to let it spool up.
 
That's stock brand new or rebuilt. my engine has 82K miles on it.
i'm confident if the motor was still tight, the car would run low to mid 14's I noticed a HUGE difference in acceleration after the tranny mods. The car ran a 16.7 when I bougt it (took it to the track the next day:)
 
In that case it's not bad. Sounds like you've got a problem though if it took that much to get mid 15's. Does you bypass work right? They can cause a lack of power if stuck. (trying to think of simple things)
 
Shift it

Problem with 5sp's is, it takes time to shift, an average of .2 seconds. If you have an auto, it can be made to shift from one gear to the next with absolutely no power interruption. Three shifts just shaved an average .6 seconds. Some guys like to speed shift and you can shift almost as fast as an auto, but chances are you'll break *****.
 
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Personally, I think 5spds are more fun to drive, and as I want a street/strip car, I'm probably going to stick with it (plus there are supposedly only 147 5-spd 35ths)
 
35th's

I wouldn't even change the radio in a 5sp 35th. The tranny ideas were for IGot6UGot8:) Let me know if you ever get tired of your Anny 'Bird . I'd like to get one to store in my shed for a couple of decades.
 
Okay, next question... the tranny I've got is (I think) a non SC auto, and seems to be slipping. It actually seems like the computer isn't keeping up with the shifts, they're tight when the finally hit, but lag a little between shifts. Also, when downshifting from 4th it revs up about 500 rpms, then catches and drops back down.

Anyway... what is a good price to have one of these built? And can I get the OD to come on with a button, so I can have a 1,2,Drive shifter?

Thanks again
Jake
 
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