questions on cam regrind

scotte

Registered User
hi i am looking for a good street cam regrind profile heres some info about my engine

89 xr7 motor
diy p&p heads & intake
tubular manifolds off new mustang
cai w/80mm lightning maf
front mout intercooler

and i'm going to put rocker rollers
and 10% supercharger pully
on sometime this year

i want somthing that i can use with the rest of the stock valvetrain
also this is for a street car i dont want big lopey idle
i just want it to sound like the motors breating much better
also i'd like it to be under $120 for the regrind preferably as cheep as posible

somebody told me to get it reground at crower for $75

that should i do??
 
I'm unsure about Crower..But Crame and Comp cams have both been doing regrinds for the SC...This will of course require you giving them a core as well as getting an adjustable timing chain as regrinds do not have the cam advance regroudn into them (usually 4 degrees)..You will also need different sized pushrods..You can ask people on here what they reccomend or just call them direct:O)...Good luck
 
how much is it?
also can i use it with an otherwise stock valvetrain

also do you have the lift and duration specs?
what does the idle sound like
 
I think the chip can only make spark timing adjustments. Only an offset timing chain (via keyways) in the big gear can make timing adjustments between valve openings and piston position realative to top dead center in the cylinder.
 
George,

You are correct.

I guess I should be more direct and say that I dissagree with the need for and adjustable timing chain. I know many people who are running Crane regrinds with a stock chain and sprockets.

David
 
Dave, I would agree with that! LOL

I guess it depends on the cam application on whether or not you need that flexibility. The only timing chain I have seen with this capability is the double roller from Morana. It allows +4, straight up and -4 degrees choices. That option will cost you $40 over the $160 for the double roller chain. Fred suggested it to me with the special grind he did for my Whipple engine. I don't have it installed, yet!

Guess it is just nice to have the option, if your application calls for it!
 
i have an eec tuner i'm going to use the stock style timing chain
what else will i need

also can somebody give me some part #'s on the cams
 
I'm not used to getting regrinds..SO I had to do research before getting one..And according to the cam manufacturers I talked to, none could cut an SC cam with the timing advance built in..That advance is generally 4 degrees..I'm sure you can get away without advancing the cam timing but I dont know how it would affect HP or torque...Dave I realize your making some good power without advancing the timing via the Timing chain but perhaps you should talk to Crane and see what they say about it. With a regrind that cant put in that 4 degrees advance....Most every cam sold over the counter has it built into the grind..Could be power just waiting to be unleashed
 
ok i will call around
who should i call
and does anybody have recommended specs on
a cam????
does anybody have the part #'s?????
can the cam manufacter provide a dyno slip for a reground cam
(not a custom order cam but one they stock)

also does the stock cam hev the +4 timing advance in it

(p.s sorry bout all the question marks but i want to buy a cam soon because my whole engine rebuild process is stoped till i get a cam)
 
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Cam selection....

Well, I have two points of view on this.....


One is, I have personally talked to Fred H. (Dr. Fred) and have gotten MUCHO INFORMATION regarding cams. I personally have a .538 lift 220 duration cam from Crane Cams. I like the cam only thing is that power is not there until 2800RPM!!!!!!!!!!

Fred told me to advance the cam 4 degrees and this is after much thinking on Freds part.


My opinion, stick with the people that know a lot.

Call Fred, buy his cam, get the info needed and you're off and running.

I wish I had done just that........



STUPID ME!!!!!!!



Just my .02


Don
 
Don retarding your cam timing 4 degrees would definately affect your low end power. If you guys are unsure what to do...Like Don said..Call the experts..If Cranes grinding your cam..call them...If its Comp Cams..Call them...If your getting a cam through Fred, Chris, Coy, Morana or whoever..Remeber they are also getting them ground by one of the big manufacturures to their specs...And I can tell you..The advance they cannot grind into the *regrinds*..Now my cam will go in 4 degrees advanced;O)..As soon as I figure out getting teh right sized pushrods..But thats going to be a new post:O)
 
I don't understand why you would want to advance the cam. (?) I already have mucho trouble blowing away the tires. Why do I need MORE torque? I want some HP on the top end. If anything I would retard a cam that is too mild for the application. Now in the case of Fred's 520 cam, there is no need to change anything because it is the right cam for the application. :confused:
 
In actuality..When you regrind a cam and its cut....4 degrees of cam timing is taken away that would normally be there. If it were a new grind..All things being equal that 4 degrees would be built in..But with a regrind they cant do that..But hey if thats what ya wanan do...I'll just post my numbers when I'm done with my little project and see what I get;O)..And if you think a supercharged v6 in an SC has torque..You should ride in a whipple charged v8 in a 1000 lb lighter car..My mustang rips em...My Sc however needs all the power it can get..And if the CAM COMPANY GRINDING THE CAMS says you need to add the 4 degrees advance....Well..I'm doing it:eek:0//EH to each his own..I'm just reccomending the proper way..Not the way people choose to do it..And I guess thast my closing statement on this subject..GODO LUCK!
 
Dave Neibert said:
George,

You are correct.

I guess I should be more direct and say that I dissagree with the need for and adjustable timing chain. I know many people who are running Crane regrinds with a stock chain and sprockets.

David

David,

It's not mandatory to degree in the cam and check the advance. An auto with a high stall convertor and steep gears won't notice much of a difference at all. The convertor and gears will mask the 400rpm move of the powerband. And as Dave stated, some people have traction issues already.

HOWEVER, people like me using a 5 spd and at least a moderate cam COULD benefit from checking the cam and setting it with about 5 degrees of advance (which is stock BTW). When a cam is reground, it's not that they take the advance out on purpose. That's just what happens when the cut a ton off to up the lift. My Comp regrind that was only .490" lift only lost 1 degree of advance. The Crane regrind I have now that is around .550" lost almost all of it. The LDA is 114 and the Intake CL was 113. So I put it in with 4 degrees of advance to get it to 109. For me, that works great because I run mine below 3000 rpm almost all the time. I generally cruise back roads between 1800-2500 and it pulls like a freight train with hardly half pedal. So I give up 10-20hp above 5000.. big deal. Overall, torque down low is more important in a big fat car like a SC. At least for most people. :D

Under 205 intake duration @.050" lift and under .500" max lift won't really matter. The regrind shouldn't cut enough off to take the advance out. Above 210 and it would be a good idea to check. 'member a few years ago all the folks b!tching about Coy cams be slugs below 2500? :p

Later,
Steve

Oh... and XR7 Dave and I both had a Comp regrind that was 210@.050" Intake and 220@.050" Exhaust with .490" lift. I sold mine to Doug Fraliegh and I believe it's working great for him on his 95 with Super Six Motorsports heads. It'll be easy on the stock valvetrain and should only require .060" longer pushrods.
 
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