Bad day for SC`s

scbird1

Registered User
Bad day for SC`s UP Date

Lets start with the 93 auto. shifts into od has this burning smell
and goes to nutral. Trans works fine but no OD. Will this thing
last for awhile the way it is or is she heading for a breakdown?
Now for the 94 auto. Just did some minor porting, new PS pump
and a raised top. Cleaned the front of the engine and painted some things up as long as it was all apart. cleaned the intercooler
and all the tubes also. Used a mini seal kit from ford to button thing up. Now it will hardly run at all. it shakes like it is running
on 3 cyclendrs. Thing I have checked so far, {took them off the 93
cam sensor, maf, iac, tps. All wires, plugs, joints and seals are in tact. what are the chances of something else going bad. The codes I get are 33-13-3 at key on. cant get codes for run, It wont stay running that long. I have checked all the front wires to the crank sensor. :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
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Sound like the same problem I have. It will not run long enough to code. It starts right up, but immediately starts shake, rattle and rollin. then shuts down.
 
I am going to check conductivity on my new motorcraft plugs. just talked to a turbo coupe owner that just purchased a new set of the high dollar wires from ford. All four wires were bad.
 
vacuum leak. recheck your tubes & top. What mini seal kit are you talking about. The OD band is toast, you can drive it in 3rd but you will need a rebuild.

Jeff
 
Thats just what ford calls it. It has the intercooler sealer, egr trottle body and intake gasket along with thread lock.
 
INDUCTION SYSTEM LEAK DETECTION KIT

SERVICE PART NUMBER E9PZ-6F091-A

KIT CONTENTS
EngineeringPart Number Description Quantity
I. ESE-M4G168-B Gasket SealantTape 1
2. ESE-M12A4-A Anti-Seize andLubricatingCompound 1
3. E9SE-9F627-AB Gasket -Throttle Body 1
4. E6AE-9D476-BB Gasket -EGR Valve 1
5. E9SE-9E936-BA Gasket -Adapter EngineCharge Control toIntake Manifold 1
6. I.S.5996 Instruction Sheet 1


We did have the "pdf" file of the 3 page instructions up on the old site, but I can't find it now.

It comes in a Ford box for about $30 bucks!
 
The only problem with the kit was there was not enough seal tape for all 4 seals, only 2 ends so I made some out of real heavy rubber fibor gasket material. I also took them apart to make sure they mated and they did. Maybe I just got shorted:(
 
Jeff next time you're over here remind me and I'll show you one. Seems like over the years you get less and less tape. Back in the day one kit would do 8-10 tube seals. Last couple I bought only did the first four. Now 2? WTH?

To clarify your '93 AOD isn't going into nuetral, the OD band is just slipping on the gear drum thereby generating a lot of heat and smoking your fluid. Like Jeff said you can now drive it in Drive, I did it for about 10 months when I was going through a nasty divorce with 3.27's and did 90 MPH everyday on the freeway. The engine is still strong years later though I chit canned the AOD.

On the '94 check behind the intake plenum to make sure you didn't forget the small rubber vacuum line that attaches to the PCV tree. I've done this one myself and have seen others here go back down to the block just to put it back together start it up and have the same problem. Then just when they have a wrecker coming to take it to the junkyard they find it. Not really but closer than you think. The nipple is covered and gets overlooked. Sounds like you've covered everything else.

Vernon
 
I have seen the same thing that Vernon is talking about. I had mine to come of due to the hosedry rotting. The thing I noticed to trigger me to a bad vacum leak was the fact that the by-pass valve had open up and the boost was circulating through.
 
I have been all over the vac lines and removed the super charger
a second time. all vac line are hooked and in perfect condition. No leaks in the intake, or throttle body. did the propane test ,carb
cleaner test, checked to make sure the EGR was working and closed and not stuck open. Im now thinking when I cleaned the front of the engine maybe the crank sensor got wet or mosture
got in it. Other than that all I can think of the coil but it shows even resitance among all termanals. Mabe I just need a bigger hammer?
 
Set up a spark plug and checked all the cylinders. all fire but I would call it weak spark. Not much more than the spark of a electric lighter. What next DIS,coil pack or crank position sensor??
Thanks for any help you can offer. Mark J.
 
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On a side note...

It's happened to me twice, the PCV valve on passenger side has a plastic elbow fitting that can become brittle with age and it will split down the side. Instant vacuum leak.

'bird
 
It ran right before you opened it up right? If so it's something you did, you will have to keep looking until you find it.

Mark double check your firing order with coil pack and wires. The cylinders are numbered left to right, front to back, number 1 is the Pass front and 2 is the Driver front and so on. The plug wires should be on the coil like so, front row 5-6-4, second row 1-2-3.

Engine coolant residue plays havoc on crank sensors, I haven't come across anything else that will hurt them this way in normal use and cleaning. Moisture won't affect them unless they are cracked.

Coil packs don't go out on all three coils at once, if all sparks look the same then it's probably OK. With gloves and insulated pliers remove one wire at a time from the coil pack, holding them just off the terminal so the spark jumps to the pulled wire, about 1-2 inches. Do this for every wire. If one spark is weaker than the others replace the coil pack.

Is it possible that water got into any ignition harness connections?

Did you have the DIS module off? could it have been damaged?

What about the RFI capacitor on the coil power lead at the pack, is it internally grounding?

Check these and get back to us, I can't think of anything else at the moment.

Vernon
 
When was the last time the dielectric grease was changed under the DIS? I had the same syptoms with mine and thats what it turned out to be, after I bought a new DIS and another coil pack. after a while the grease breaks down and gets crappy just my 2cents...Bill
 
Vernon,

Here is a firing order diagram that may help explain what your saying, compliments of Lance Morgan.


PlugandWireLayout.jpg


David
 
Thank you for the reply Vernon. I have triple checked the fireing order and checked the RFI capacitor and shows no resitance. I took the entire wireing harness to the cam sensor to the coil to the crank sensor and checked each wire for continuity. all passed. I think im going to replace the crank sensor. I did clean the front of the engine with gunk engine cleaner and a little water but did not remove the sensor. As far as the dis itself it has never been touched. I have retraced all my steps. I did not spray the engine with water. It did run perfect before so its got to be something else. Well guess I will do what ford dose, replace and test.
I do have a 93 for temp donor parts so I can check some parts.
Thanks,Mark J.
 
What do you mean by no resistance? Is it open or shorted? A cap is going to be a little different to check than most everything else. You should show a very low resistance then it should increase to infinity. Use the diode check (the one that beeps) and it should beep then stop. depending on the size of the cap the beep will be longer for a higher value and shorter for a smaller value.

Jeff
 
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