ARP Head Studs

93SC

Registered User
Does anyone know how tight you get the head studs themselves in. And also, how tight are you supposed to get the nuts?

Thanks
 
i belive 70 ft. lbs. with a.r.p. lube. add 10 for motor oil. turn them in the block untill good and snug. also i had to cut the top of the stud off to clear the exhaust manifold.
 
Fingertight to 3 ft-lbs for the studs into the block.

65-70 ft-lbs on the nuts with ARP's moly lube is a good number. In 3 steps, I usually go 30-50-70 in sequence. Some have gone to 75 ft-lbs and had good luck too.

And yes, you'll have to cut 3 studs on each side to clear the exhaust.
 
BlackbirdSC said:
Fingertight to 3 ft-lbs for the studs into the block.

65-70 ft-lbs on the nuts with ARP's moly lube is a good number. In 3 steps, I usually go 30-50-70 in sequence. Some have gone to 75 ft-lbs and had good luck too.

And yes, you'll have to cut 3 studs on each side to clear the exhaust.

Cool, thats what we did. Now I just have to look for the studs to cut when I put the exhaust back on.
 
So the ARP head studs for the SC aren't the right length? How much needs to be cut?

I guess this would be a rhetorical question, but why wouldn't ARP just supply the correct length studs in the kit? This isn't a generic kit, it's supposedly designed for the SC...
 
yeah it sucks, give a 150 bucks then have to modify them. i think that tube headers have better clearance than stock manifolds. i cut them to the top of the nut.
 
Yup, what silver said. Cutting them to the top of the nut is about 3/8"-1/2". And no, headers don't clear any more than manifolds do. I've tried them both.

And no, the ARP studs kit is not really designed for the SC. Basically, the found a stud they already made that was about the right length and would work. The part into the block is metric, but the top side is 7/16". (Pretty sure on the 7/16" part, can't remember for sure)

I'd actually contacted ARP about this through the engine shop I worked at about 18 months ago. They played stupid like they had no idea the studs didn't fit right on the outside row. I talked with 2 different people and they gave me the same **** even though I gave them exact specs on how 'off' the outside studs were. Said they'd 'look into it' which to me means they're not going to do a thing because I'm the only one that ever called and complained about it. It sucks to have to grind 6 studs on a brand new motor.
 
I believe the topside is still metric, M11x1.25 . and the bottom is m11x1.5. I lost one nut and had a hard time finding the a M11x1.25 nut. Luckily, I rolled the car back and found it.

edit: I stand corrected they are 7/16 on the top side.
 
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7/16" in the block, 11mm at the heads. Got two on engine stands, just checked.
 
I found out today that the ARP kit for the Chevy V6 is exactly the same as the SC kit except it has the 8 shorter (3.75") studs. The part number is 233-4003 (hex) or 233-4303 (12 pt). And for some reason it's a lot cheaper than the SC kit - Summit has the hex kit for $75.

Rob Noth

Just in case anyone is wondering......
 
errrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I dont recall the torque specs but I do remember me tightening the upper and lower studs at a different torque value...this is due in part to the stress on the heads when torqueing down the lower manifold
 
I am getting ready to install my cylinder heads using ARP studs.
The Kit is 153-4001. The application is for our cars. That said it it appears I may be cutting the studs on 6 of these. What is the best way to trim these to the proper length?
 
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