My car died today...

S

sctbird91

Registered User
Recently the check engine light has been coming on a lot, and the car has lost power sometimes... Today when I was driving home the car died in the middle of driving and I heard a small thud. When I tried to crack it over, it took about 5 trys before the car started again. it has done with once before. Anyone know the problem? Thanks...
 
You need a Scan Bro

Do a Code Scan...You have a light so you should be able to get something to work with from there...With no light you would be kinda in the dark a lil more, but with the light ya gotta run codes man...

If ya feel like spendin' a lil bit of cash the go get a Code scanner @ shucks or another similar parts chain store...I think I paid like 150bux for mine and it has payed for itself many times over...

Good luck...

Brad
 
go to autozone, get a $30 scanner and post the codes here, someone should be able to give you their meaning...

the az scanner blinks at you a set number of times ex: code 176 it blinks once, pauses, blinks 7 times pauses, blinks 6 times.
 
I bought the tester...

I bought the tester, but I wanted to know... do I have to test it when the CE light comes on? Becuase when I tested it I just got the 111 code 4 times and that was all.
 
if i recall right, you plug it in with the accessories OFF, then turn on the accessories and the codes should cycle
 
I did that 4 times, the first time it started giving me codes but I wasn't ready. I'm just gonna go drive it around for 5 minutes to re cycle the codes, then I'll try it again... I'll let you know my results.
 
111's are pass (that means the EEC didn't find anything) codes.

You have 2 sets of codes: hard codes and stored codes. A hard code means that the EEC has found something definitely wrong. A stored code means that something was wrong for a brief time but cleared itself up. An example is a wire which might be loose to a sensor or something. The code numbers are the same.

Each set of codes is output twice for your convenience. If the check engine light comes on, then you should have at least 1 stored code. That is unless you unplugged the scanner while the codes were being output which will case all codes to be cleared :eek:

You don't have to run the car to get the stored codes. All that you have to do is turn the key off; wait 10 seconds and turn the key on again with the code scanner plugged in.

Of course, you don't need a code scanner at all, a paper clip works just as well; you read the codes by counting the flashes of the check engine light while sitting in the car. But it does take some practice to get used to the timing sequence ;)
 
Well, I have checked about 5 times now and all 5 times the car passed with the 111 code. Does this mean my problem is more then likely a loose wire? Because when i took a sharp turn today at a higher speed, the car jolted like it was gonna shut off(which it does sometimes.) could this be the problem?
 
When you run the codes, are you running the codes with engine running, or not?

There are two sets of codes, engine running, and engine not running.

Dale
 
I'm using the code reader that flashes the codes and it says to test with the ignition on but the car off. That's how I am testing...
 
I checked all wiring, start wires are tight, I tightened the power wire, it was a tad loose, so was the terminal. That could have been it, but I'll have to make sure. Any thing else I should check?
 
Well...

THe X-Ray Scanner will do a wiggle test mode as well as engine on & off, on the fly, and monitor values, clear codes...This piece is well worth it if ya are gonna work on your own SC...

Anyway, in reading your problem again I would say that a loose conection would probably NOT cause the scenario you described earlier. Then again you never eally know...I was recently STUMPED big style...

To check you Harmonic balancer bolt you need to take a socket to the center bolt inside the center of your Crank pulley and apply pressure to see if it is broke off or LOOSE...

Brad
 
sctbird91 said:
no idea, should I check?
Click to expand...
Umm... yes. Just feel around to be sure that its there. With the history of failed harmonic balancers on these cars, its something to keep an eye on.
 
also, when your cranking, does the upshift light come on?

could be the good ol' crank sensor failure...

been there done that. not fun. 5.5 mm socket driver was required to pop the bolts loose on it, replaced them with allen bolts.
 
Well since I adjusted the power cable and terminal I haven't had a problem. No CE light, no jolts so far. I've driven about 40 miles since, so we'll have to see.
 
Chances are very high that that's your cam sensor that needs to be replaced, with that code.

Frequently it's also accompanied by a 212 code.

Dale
 
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