View Full Version : Tranny drop and syncro questions

03-05-2003, 06:07 PM
Hey guys. Just a few questions here:
MY SC has been out of commission for about 3 months now because of stripped threads on the slave cylinder so I need to drop the 5 speed and put in a new slave. Anyway my tranny has been grinding 2nd and 3rd in the summer (needs new syncros i guess eh?).

So what i'd like to know is will the tranny drop be that hard (my friend is gunna help me, he has dropped his tranny on his '86 mustang twice)???. We don't have a lift or anything, just jack stands and what not and i've never done this before.

Also if i took the removed tranny to a shop in town, how much am i looking at for parts and labor to put new syncros in?

Is there any clutch rebuild kits that include the slave cylinder? If so where and how much?

Thanks a lot for your help guys. You've been very helpful in the past.

Les Borda
03-05-2003, 06:59 PM
New slaves are available from Ford and include a new throw out bearing, hwoever move on this fast there is only a very few left anf it is going end of life like everything else for our cars. Aftermaket guys do carry these as well.



Please read the above links on the Ontario Canada chapter of the SCCOA. I hate to burst you rballon but this is reality because I am going through this pain as we speak.

03-05-2003, 09:14 PM
Dropping the trans will be a lot harder than in a mustang. For the t-bird you need to remove your whole exhaust behind the manifolds and lower your gas tank before you can get the driveshaft out of the way to drop the trans. It isn't that hard, but it might be a little cramped trying to work under there without a lift. Even still you should be able to drop the trans in a few hours.

03-05-2003, 09:56 PM
just dont drop the trans on your head:D . It almost weighs double a 5.0 trans(it is from a F-150:D ). Might want to get a transmission jack adapter or 2 people and maybe some milk-crates? right under it to keep it from falling

03-05-2003, 10:13 PM
You do not have to drop the gas tank....

Take out rear u-joint and then you can raise the shaft over the pumpkin.....

03-05-2003, 10:26 PM
I read somewhere that you don't actually have to drop the fuel tank:

4.unbolt the drive shaft loop and remove it
5. unbolt the driveshaft at the rear end flange
6. fanaegle the shaft out of the trans and sit it on top of the rear.

03-06-2003, 12:09 AM
Why does wveryone say that the M5R2 is out of the F-150, every shop I have talked to and looking at part numbers for different trannies and talking to Ford, the M5R2 was used in Mazda trucks and maybe the rangers.

03-06-2003, 12:51 AM
Yah this is the first i've heard ofit being from the f150.

03-06-2003, 12:53 AM
the part numbers are different i believe because the gear ratios are a lil different for the trucks, also i think they have brass syncros ours have fiber.
Guys i was the one that said about fanagling the shaft out. when i wrote that i couldnt remember how i did it exactly but i just dropped the trans again yesterday on jackstands by myself. took 2 hours from when i rolled under the car till i pulled the trans out.
What you do is use a 12 millimeter wrench and unbolt the flange at the diff. you will probably need a prybar weged in to hold it still and a cheater bar on the wrench. you cant get a socket in as the shaft is too big. next step is unbolt the rear differential mount ONLY THE TOP BOLT! remove the bolt. unbolt the two diff mounts (this is also a good time to upgrade to poly mounts) and let the diff hang down. once you do this you should be able to slide the yoke of the shaft out of the trans. the bolts for the diff have a 15mm head at the top. this is the way i find it easiest. its also a good thing to upgrade to solid motor mounts while you have the trans out caus you can get to them easy.

DONT USE CENTERFORCE, they suck! and you can get your slave cylinder from advance auto parts. it is alot cheaper than ford oe replacement. I have had no problems with it and mine even had a ford stamp on it.

If i can help anymore just ask

03-06-2003, 12:56 AM
The shifter is in a different spot and the tailshaft is different.

03-06-2003, 03:47 PM
The mazda trabs used in rangers and the B seires trucks is an M5R1. No our trans isn't the same as the M5R2 from the F-150 but it is very similar. As was mentioned earlier, the shifter is located further forward and the tailshaft is different. I wasn't too9 sure about this until I helped a friend pull the trans from his 95 F-150 and sure enough they are very similar.

According to the service manual, you supposed to undo the 4 bolts that hold the rear end and tilt it down in order to slide the driveshaft back. I dont know how you people managed to get it on top with out doing that (I tried). If you dont have an impact, removing those bolts may not bve feasible (I broke a rachet trying). Personally I didnt find it that hard to just drop the tank. The exhaust has to come down anyway from there it's only a few hoses to disconnect and 4 bolts to lower.

The trans itslef was real fun, as I didnt have a trans jack either. I supported the back end with a stack of bricks then removed the crossmember and the bellhousing bolts. Set some more bricks up front and had my brother help me slide it back. Had to take a whell off the get it out as the car wasnt far ehough off the ground to clear the bellhousing.

03-06-2003, 04:37 PM
I recently swapped out/in and AOD without touching the tank, I tilted the diff down and rested the drive shaft on top of it. I hope you follow an instruction manual so you'll do things like paint mark the DS & diff flange etc.. You need to get the car as high off the ground as you can b/c just getting the exhaust out is a challange and impact tools will make the work a lot easier.
AS of today, what do you think it should cost to rebuild the M5R2 to factory specs or isn't there a Co. selling rebuilt ones? Good luck

XR7 Dave
03-06-2003, 10:02 PM
A complete rebuild kit is aroung $300. This does include bearings, seals and syncro rings, but not the assemblies. Personally I think that you should take it apart and look for what needs replacing. I put about $150 in mine for 3 new syncros, all new seals, some shims, and a couple of bearings. Most of the bearings in my transmission did not show appreciable wear, so I did not replace them.

A complete rebuild is $550 plus. If you need new syncro assemblies it will be more (though usually it is only reverse that gets beaten up). Contact Southern Gear if you want to go that route. I don' t have the address, sorry.