5-speed and syncro question

derekhay316

Registered User
Hey guys I thought before that my syncros were going cuz it would grind going from 1st to 2nd. But i eventually got around this by sliding the shifter to the right side while shifting into 2nd from 1st or 3rd (it didn't matter what rev i was at). Is this still a syncro problem or is it just not aligned. If so what would it take to fix? How much should I expect a shop to charge for this. The tranny has 80,000 original miles. Thanks a lot.
 
I am having a similar problem (why do I feel like I just walked into an AA meeting?) Mine scrubs going into second and a little going into 5th as well. If I shift out of 1st into second around 1500rpm, it goes in just fine. Mine is uneffected by how I move the sifter, unlike the original poster above. I just have to find the right rpm for it to shift smoothly. Is mine definitely a syncro problem? I am planning on opening it up and replacing the syncro assymblies soon. I really do not know enough to tell if a shifter looks ok or not. Never actually opened one up before. This syncro assymbly replace should be a fun job....


The reason I originally suspected bad syncro is because when my clutch went, I tried getting into 5th and then when she slowed down I tried getting it into second (was on the Freeway, shifting was an important thing at the time). I figure I chipped them or something.

Any thoughts?
 
Yeah, this shifter has always been disappointing...I mean could it BE anymore sluggish? Third is too close, reverse is a frikin' pain to get into half the time....:rolleyes:
 
The transmission is actually very easy to work on, but you will need a press to get the gears apart.

As for the stock shifter, it is actually a very good shifter. The cost to rebuild the stock unit is about $45 US, much cheaper than the $170 for the B&M. The B&M will not change the hard to shift problems, in fact it will make them worse since it has a shorter throw. As for a "rubbery" feel, well, the only "rubber" in it is in the shifter handle. The Ripper does not include a new handle, so you will have to buy that extra anyhow. You could put a solid handle on your stock rebuilt shifter and eliminate any "rubberiness" that way.

As for the grinding gears problem, you have bad syncros. Period. You don't usually need to replace the whole assembly (~$180 ea), besides they are discontinued anyhow. All you generally need to replace are the syncro rings themselves. (~$30 ea). When you pay $800 or more for a rebuild, you are not getting new assemblies either.
 
Ahhhh, new rings, THAT is what I was waiting to hear. Rings are a good bit cheaper than the whole assembly. I'll drop this M5R2 next weekend and crack it open and go at it. A buddy of mine has a lift and a press so I should be good to go. Thanks for the advice, I really do appreciate it!

Big-Al


(this 35th is going to work one way or another)
 
Hmmm, I got mine a LONG time ago, so maybe you get more for your money now!

Anyway, seeing as I have both, I can compare the two, and while the B&M is tighter, it doesn't shift any easier. I find a properly rebuilt stocker a little smoother.
 
Al, when you take it apart, keep an eye out for pieces of the old shifter here and there inside the case! It's kinda funny where the parts end up sometimes....
 
eeeewwwwww....that sounds bad.

Oh well. I'll open her up and hope for the best but prepare for the worst.

Hopefully I can save a bunch of money by doing the work myself instead of paying a shop to do it. My rear still hurts after paying for a simple clutch install.

You ever get the bill from a shop and think to yourself "If I were a mechanic, I would be a millionaire!"
 
My B&M I just ordered did not come with a stick. Have to reuse the original, in thier instructions. Crappy for $170.

I'm on my 3rd trans. Original was grinding going into gears, then mysteriously one day it decided it could not find 2nd. You could put it where 2nd should be, but nothing. No movement, grinding, noise of anykind. I think it must have damaged part of the linkage?

2nd trans grinds going into and back into all forward gears except 1st and 5th. I know it is bad synchros/blocking rings, but a local shop wanted $1400 so I said, well you know what I said. How difficult would it be for me to install/inspect this trans to see if it is just synchros? I'm currently rebuilding the motor, so I figure I should be able to handle rebuilding the trans.

3rd trans going in soon.
 
You can check the syncros just by pulling the top cover off. Just take a feeler gauge and measure between the brass syncro ring and the gear while applying pressure. Minimum spec is .030", but at .030" they may already be bottoming out. New ones are .060"+. The only ones you can't get to are 5th + rev as they are underneath. If you haven't beaten it up too much, you should be able to rebuild it pretty cheap. I spent about $200 doing it myself.

If you ground the gear enough, then chances are you sheared the teeth off of the gear. If you had broken the linkage, then it would not shift in and out of the companion gear (1st).
 
Last edited:
...and pray real HARD that you do not need the synchronizer assembly they have gone end of life. There are none in the USA or Canada for 3-4.R-5, I didn't check 1-2 because mine was ok.
 
Back
Top