I have part numbers for solid rubber engine mounts

phils89sc

Registered User
This may or may not be new news, but I have found part numbers for solid rubber engine mounts for 89-97 3.8L and 3.8LSC's.

They can be purchased at Advance Auto Parts. The manufacturer is Pioneer, and the part number is M6052 (both sides). Price is $26.00 each, quite a bit cheaper than anywhere else I have seen them.

Hope this helps out everyone!!

Phil Stocker
 
Positive, just got off the phone with them about 1 hour ago, and verified ...

that they were indeed solid rubber. I am picking up two tonight from them to do mine this weekend (weather permitting). This is a Godsend for me, as my oil pan is crushing my p/s steering pump line and sitting right on my oil pan.

Call them and check it out...

Phil
 
Let me know after you pick them up, My experience in dealing with Advance is that they have some of the most stupid people I have ever spoken with. Let us know what they were after you pick them up. It could just be some idiot picked up the box and pulled out the mount and tried to squeeze it and said "yup, that is pretty hard to squeeze" it must be solid." Because it is not like the hydraulic mounts are soft as playdo or anything, they are quite stiff to hold in your hand.

Anyway let us know.
 
I've heard that those are not truely solid. They are not liquid filled, but are hollow. I remember reading something about 6 months ago about some one buying a set just to cut them open to see if they are indeed solid...they weren't. Just food for thought. Most solid mounts will run in the $40 range.
 
Are you sure they weren't broken factory units?

I am not going to cut apart a perfectly good mount to see if it is (not very likely) hollow. It would cost more to make them hollow I would think. I appreciate the input though. I will come up with some way to test them without cutting them apart. Will let you all know.

Phil
 
maybe you can "slice" one open and see if its solid,then tell them its broken or some other story,theyll take it back, i know cause i did this at a local mom and pop store a year ago.i called them telling them what i wanted,they swore they had a solid mount for $30.00,i bought one,took it home and opened the box,and what i saw looked like a massed produced piece of garbage,i sliced it with a razor knife[alot of slicing] low and beholed it was a 1/2 inch solid,the rest was air inside!! itook it back and said it was junk[like 3 weeks later] said it tore after 2 weeks after installing it on my car[it did look like it was tore,must of been a dull razor knife!] i feel kinda bad,i usally dont do this stuff,i had to know,it was killing me!! glad i did...imagine the hours of labor and pain of installing mounts thinking theyre solid,a month later youre doing it again!!!
 
It would cost more to make them hollow I would think.

Actually, I believe they are just the hydraulic mounts with no fluid in them. Jason Marsh is the one who cut one open to see for sure. Not sure if he still has the pictures or manufacturer name.
 
Here is a thought, devils advocate I guess..

Has anyone ever cut open a $40.00 mount and checked those out to see if they are solid or hollow?

Thanks

Phil
 
I dunno. I wasn't real satisfied with what I thought I might get at any of the local chain auto parts stores after calling around to several of them. In the end I just ponied up and bought a set from mn12performance. They're $85 or so, but for this job I'd prefer to spend a few extra bucks to get the right part rather than screw around with the chain stores.
 
Ahhh, but how do you know they are what they claim??

Again, I am not trying to be an A$$ here, but unless we get someone to cut open an MN12 performance mount, we will never really know the whole story or if they are hollow like the rest.

My story started with an 89 SC I used to own. Both original mounts were shot so I ponied out some big $$ ching ching for replacement hydraulic mounts. I was lucky in the way that for installation I had access to a lift, which made install a little easier. But, I would say that within 3 months, the drivers side mount was broken again. So I brought those back and got my $$ back and went to Twin "B" Auto Parts (I lived in VA Beach in 1998). I remember someone posting on the SCCOA that a certain year Tbird used solid mounts on one side and hydraulic on the other (Ford's attempt to fix their huge screw up). I went to Twin B and sure enough, they had the solid rubber mounts for all of $25.00 each. This was much better than the $65.00 each for the hydraulics at the time. I got the solids, put them in a week later, and never had another problem till I got rid of that car a year later (stupid me traded it in on a, you guessed it, a 99 Mustang GT).

I guess the morale of this story is that do we ever know exactly what we are getting? I wonder if you cut the $40.00 mounts and checked them out, would you find them to be hollow as well?

I think the whole problem with the "hydraulic" mounts is this...they are "hydraulic"!! Sounds simple and stupid right? Think of it this way, after my tour of duty in our great United States NAVY (no sarchasm, I loved it, but screwed up my back and could not stay in.. anyways) I learned quite a bit about hydraulics and fluid dynamics. Look at the shape of the mount before installation, looks good right? Real uniform, no creases or obvious flaws, etc. Take those two "hydraulic" mounts and install them. See how they crush sort of under the weight of the engine? They deform quite a bit don't they, at least mine did. So, here is where the hydraulics part comes in. What happens to fluid under pressure? You cannot compress a fluid as it has a definite volume and takes up a definite amount of space right (some may not agree, but that is the principle of hydraulics). Now that the weight of the engine is trying to crush these mounts, the fluid inside the mounts is now pressurized. The fluid inside is going to try and find any way out of the mount that it can. A simple crack in the inside of the mount, or a tear on the inside can start the process. Add to the equation the engines natural tendency to twist under accell and descel, and the mount is stressed incredibly. I would think that the fluid filled mounts are under much more stress than the solid or "hollow" mounts are because the fluid is always fighting to get out right? Add another factor of abuse and clutch dumping, and heat/elements, and utter lack of movement limitation (i.e. torque strap) and it is no wonder the hydraulic mounts fail.

So, there is my theory, see what you think, I am going to go out to my garage and see if these are hollow and if so, oh well.
 
Jason also cut one of his (or at least what he used to sell which were also the same as the mn12 mounts) open as well to show that they were indeed solid. That was all I needed to see. The hollow mounts will probably last about as long as the hydraulic mounts will. The hydraulics are probably good for 50-60k miles on a stock motor and decidedly less for a modified motor driven hard. I'm not trying to be an *** either. I just hate to see someone go through the pain of changing the mounts out only to find out later that they were not what they thought they were
 
Well, I checked them out, and they are very solid rubber...

I didn't cut it as I need it this weekend, but what I did was I took an ice pick, and stabbed the mount at both the top half and the bottom half. Each time I pushed till went out the other side. I never felt a hole in them at all, I had very strong resistance the whole way through. I know this isn't like cutting them open to find out, but I think I could tell if the ice pick just let go half way through and got real easy to push, even if briefly.

Plus, I found Pioneer's website, and emailed them to find out if they were 100% solid. I will actually call them tomorrow to find out.

Thanks

Phil
 
And just a little heads up for people with good power and replacing their motor mounts.

Sold motor mounts are better than hyraulic, but our engine can still tear them apart. The only benefit then is that the engine won't crush down the solid mounts like a torn hydraulic mount.

If you want to ensure you don't rip any more motor mounts, you have to put in a torque strap on the driver's side of the engine. It's the only way to ensure the mount is not stressed past it's limit.

Here is a thread on torque straps:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6442
 
hey dude if you lived in ny i could trade you my red hood and fender cause my car is black with a red hood red fender.lol
joe
 
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