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View Full Version : Engine Mount Install? How Hard!!



ThunderCoupe94
03-10-2003, 02:38 PM
How hard is it to install engine mounts in a 94 SC? I just got my solid rubber mounts to replace those ~~~ crappy filled ones and was wonderin how hard it is to install em and what it intails? Anyone who has an answer i would appriciate the Info. Thanks for your help

Jayson

Boostman23
03-10-2003, 03:25 PM
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16937&highlight=motor+mount+install


Learn to use the "search" feature on this forum, it can be a post saver.

LJGriggs
03-10-2003, 04:26 PM
I did my mounts a couple of months ago. I first read over the info provided by those brave souls who had gone before me.... After putting the bird up on jackstands and looking at what I would need to do in order to change them by the "under the car" method, I decided to take the easy way and do them from the top. Sure, it takes longer and you have to remove the accessory brackets and associated components, but it is mech easier to get leverage on the bolts from topside. (hey, I'm gettin' old and don't feel like spending that much time jacking a wrench around while on my back under a car). If you have the time to remove the stuff, it's a breeze. Plus it gives you an opportunity to do some close inspection and detailed cleaning of the engine compartment. My SC hasn't looked this good under the hood in years. But, it really depends on how much time you have, what type of tools are available, and what else you want to do while you're in there.

Les Borda
03-10-2003, 04:57 PM
I agree Larry having done it just the way you did last summer on one of the guys 95 it was so nice getting at them from the front. Sure you need a power steering pulley puller and all that untill you toss away that stupid bracket that is. Take those accessory brackets off and there they are, in your face, much easier to R&R.

LJGriggs
03-10-2003, 05:09 PM
I may be doing it wrong, but I have never removed the power steering pulley. I just disconnect the pump from the lines and remove the acc. bracket with the pump still attached. If you are quick, you can plug the fitting on the pump without dumping fluid all over the garage floor. I just make sure that the reservoir is full before I go for a test drive.......

Mike8675309
03-10-2003, 05:13 PM
I thought that would be eaiser too. At least until my wife wins the lottery and I can get a lift like they have on the TNN Power Block shows!

Like y'all said, it takes a little longer but you get a chance to touch so many other parts of the car that rarely see the light of day.

Oh and it's a good time to change spark plugs then too.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni/images/tbird/drivermount.jpg

TbirdSCFan
03-10-2003, 07:41 PM
Just (finally after so many years) broke down and bought a power steering pump pulley puller this wknd so that I could replace my water pump. Prior to now, I'd just been borrowing one from Autozone. IMO, its easier to get stuff out of the way for the mount bolts. You also don't have as much risk rounding off bolt heads whenever you have a straight shot at them. To me, the pulley puller is a must-own tool. But hey, I also need to rationalize the $30, don't I? ;) ;)

I also have this thing about putting stuff back together like it was. So, if Ford saw fit to put bolts holding the IC tubes to the engine, and nuts/studs holding the power steering bracket to the block, and bracket plates going from the pwr steering over to the water pump, then to me they had some reason for it, and I'm putting them back on.

94-5speed16
03-12-2003, 12:19 AM
Where's the best place to buy replacement solid rubber motor mounts? I think mine are out, when i hit the gas it all the sudden jumps likes the motor is moving around.

Mike8675309
03-12-2003, 12:38 AM
I purchased mine from www.mn12performance.com. There are some available from local parts houses, but there were/are so many questions about their true solid nature, I felt it was better to stick with ones that I could be sure were solid.

sizemoremk
03-12-2003, 02:50 AM
I got mine from advance auto, they said they were solid, and 30-40 a piece IIRC.

I took everthing I could off for a good clenaing, and resealed the IC tubes with copper RTV...no problems yet...

I also took off the exhaust manifolds and took a dremel tool to the "ridge" inose the collector (to reduce a little backpressure, hopefully extending the life of head gaskets) whilst I was at it. Removing the manifolds makes the mounts alot easier to get at.

There were no exhaust minifold gaskets on it but I put some on it, and had to take em back off becasue there is gasket material covering up the damn spark plug holes (talk about being pissed)... so use a dremel or tin snips to cut the excess material if you want to use them... I used "spray copper" and the copper rtv to "glue" the gaskets to the manifold before re-installation.
I also did plugs and should have done the wires....

I don't have a vise, so once I got the mounts out, I had to screw the mount brackets to a 2x4 for leverage to get the mounts off of the brackets themselves....

I took off the compressor, power steering pump(need puller, which can be "rented" from autozone) IC and tubes for cleaning too) starter (In think) I also got a good creeper, with reclining headrest (don't know what I've done without it)

It did take longer than I'd expected....prolly 3-4 evenings including a solid saturday, but I was taking my time, especially when I was getting pissed off....to prevent extra damage!

You can do it, just take yer time!

If I can think of anthing else I'll add to this...

MY90SC
03-12-2003, 09:07 AM
they are actually available from many parts suppliers
just make sure the guy or girl understands that you need the solid rubber M/M not OEM they are both listed the part # for the Solid rubber ones is MOU 31-3503

and check them before you leave the store because I did and found 2 differant M/M's in each box

TbirdSCFan
03-12-2003, 01:48 PM
Originally posted by sizemoremk
There were no exhaust minifold gaskets on it but I put some on it, and had to take em back off becasue there is gasket material covering up the damn spark plug holes (talk about being pissed)... so use a dremel or tin snips to cut the excess material if you want to use them... I used "spray copper" and the copper rtv to "glue" the gaskets to the manifold before re-installation.
I also did plugs and should have done the wires....
They are machined such that they don't need the gaskets.. far cry from the olden days where steel mated to steel and globs of pematex and gasket material was a must. On the SC, the tolerances (take the SC top for example) are so good, that you rarely need more than a razor thin layer of sealant. Even my water pump was close enough to only need a very small amount of sealant..
Next time, what you could do is use the copper sealant directly between the manifold and the head and no gasket. Copper is high heat.. it is made for that sort of application.


It did take longer than I'd expected....prolly 3-4 evenings including a solid saturday, but I was taking my time, especially when I was getting pissed off....to prevent extra damage!... I COMPLETELY agree with that last statement. I want it done right and if that means it takes longer, then it takes longer. I don't want rounded bolt heads, missing bolts, and I will NEVER accept a cross threaded bolt. Tap-n-dies are essential tools, IMO and mine get a lot of use.

If I wanted it done wrong, fast, and expensively, I'd take it to the shop ;)