G-Tech Horsepower Test on SC? Anyone

ReDevilXR7

Registered User
Has anyone tested a GTech in their supercoupe? what kind of HP ratings have you gotten?

On my brother's 89 SC we're taking a more progressive and reasonable approach to modin' it. It's got 85k, Ford reman'd long block motor with 6k, K&N panel filter, air silencer removed, disconnected S/C bypass valve, Level 10 custom shift kit, hollowed cats and a stock Throttle Body with homemade modification (patent pending design, wish me luck ).

A dyno reading will take place in April, but in the meantime, the G-Tech is claiming a 215HP rating...I'm curious how does that sit with other G Tech readings and SC mods out there.

Jesse
 
i got about 500 hp:rolleyes: , I think it doesnt work too well in manual transmission cars with low gears or testing in the lower gear ranges (1st maybe 2nd)
 
Gtech

If you have a perfectly flat and straight road to test it on, it's as accurate as the weight that you tell it. The error comes in when your guessing your weight or when your road has dips or inclines that throw off the accelerometer.
 
you cannot test it in 1st or second gear. You need to run it up through the gears until it can pick up the average, normaly you have to go into 4th. Would you dyno test in 1st or 2nd? The averages should be fairly close but not spot on.
 
it worked perfectly fine in an auto 5.0 Rustang with 3:08s, it was within 5hp on the display everytime
 
It works in any gear in which you have traction. It does not average anything. It is a direct acceleration over time calculation. I have gotten a highest rating of 305hp, and since my car dynos right around 300rwhp, I think it is pretty accurate. I dyno in 3rd because I don't have enough traction in 1st or 2nd. It is important to set it up right and not guess at your test weight.
 
Gtech shift spikes

Well, I have been playing with my dads gtech a bit.
The other night in my 95 with only an estimate on weight, I got a 214 bone stock.
This actual number is not what concerns me - the fact that it spiked this momentarily on the 2-3 auto shift makes me think its more the jolt during the shift than good solid pull.
WIll be testing more under better more consistent and accurate conditions soon...
 
all it does is measure an average of distance covered for time elapsed. A hard shift will cause the front to jerk upward and throw off the level of teh G-tech giving you a false reading during the shift. Finish the run and it will give you the average HP rating. Which should be less than what you would get on a dyno because you are getting wind resistance when testing with the G-Tech.
 
Huge spikes will be recorded even if you run the car on a chassis dyno if you allow it to shift under load. Why do you think the tires chirp when it shifts? Any accurate dyno run has to be run in one gear where you have good traction. In most auto's this means leaning into the gas in second (not jamming the gas to the floor or shifting under power), and in 5spds it will be either 2nd or 3rd depending on power levels. Just make sure you do all your testing on the same road and at the same speeds. Nothing is perfect, not even a chassis dyno. :)
 
um, on an auto it should be 3rd gear for a 1:1 ratio, and in a 5 speed it should be 4th gear for a 1:1 ratio. Otherwise you get an inaccurate power rating that is not true to the cars actual HP. In 2nd or third there is a TQ multiplication at the wheels do to the steeper ratio in the tranny. An accurate reading will consist of the test being done with a 1:1 ratio, which would be 3rd for autos and 4th for 5 speed cars.
 
Dyno Test

I always thought that when you run a dyno test you have to be in the gear that gives you a 1:1 ratio for the most accurate readings. This would be 4th gear on the 5 speeds and 3rd gear for the AODs.
 
With a G-Tech, I got a 192hp score for stock. How accurate is this? Sounds pretty accurate to me. :confused:
 
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I am well aware of the 1:1 ratio. :rolleyes: Sorry if I jumped around too much for ya, I was talking about both chassis dyno and G-tech performance. The second/ third gear recomendations are based on the assumption that you are using a G tech on the street or drag strip. If you have stock gears then getting to the 4600rpm HP peak in fouth not only takes a lot of time and space it is also both dangerous and illegal. Furthermore any gains from a 1:1 ratio are pretty much out the window once you take into effect wind resistance at 130+mph. Remember if it weren't for the power robbing effect of wind resistance our cars would do a redline limited 180 or so MPH. :eek:
 
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