What gets off residual head gasket?

Vernon

Registered User
I finally blew some SC head gaskets, only took me what 7 or 8 years. Is there any trick product that makes cleaning the block and head mating surfaces easyer? I'm not going to wire brush it.

Vernon
 
Have you tried 3M Gasket Remover products? "Rolec" is the trade name. They come in various sizes and "grits" even though they are made of fibers not strickly an abrasive.
 
Scraper and paint thinner I got, I'll give it a try. I was scraping dry and it didn't seem possible to get it all.

Duffy, is the product you mentioned hand operated or with an air tool? I use some little fiberous disks at work that attach to a little "buffer tool", they work great but I don't have access at the house where my car is.

Vernon
 
Air tools are one way to use them but I believe they will work with an electric drill. I think they have a 1200 RPM limit anyway.
 
spray can

Permatex also makes a spray that does a good job of getting those stuck gaskets going., it is called "gasket remover"Spray it on wait a few minutes, then hit it with a scraper and you are done. Don't take this wrong, I just wanted to get you the correct stuff the first time..Sometimes I say things wrong, thats just me...Brake clean will also work if it is a paper type gasket and it cheap to buy as well. Good luck.....Rich
 
Scraper + VHT gasket remover or equal. I've even used WD-40 and Goof-off in a pinch. Anything that dissolves adhesives.
Are you doing your whole engine Vernon? I'm in the middle of taking apart the 93 due to last Decembers head gasket failure.
Just curious, as I'm trying to procure the best price on a master rebuild kit. ($845 so far from Fed. Mogul, Oreilly's had it cheaper but not sure they can get it anymore they say).
 
I'm really lazy when it comes to gasket removal I guess, I'm using the Permatex gasket remover that Rich mentioned also. I just wondered if there was something I could put on and wipe off to reveal a freshly machined surface. Fat chance I gather. I'll just keep on sprayin, scrapin, and scrubbin.

Steve I'm doing the short block on the Mustang. On the SC It'll be cam and heads. $845 doesn't sound to bad.

Vernon
 
3m roloc discs

i would not use the 3m roloc discs as a post above suggested, they do a nice cleaning job but they leave fine particles that will get into your engine and can take out bearings in the bottom end! particles you cannot see......there was a tech bulletin to GM dealerships 6 or 7 years ago on this, advised them NEVER to use these or main bearings will go shortly after service..........funny thing is i had just done intake gaskets on my 87 Firebird Formula, and cleaned the surfaces with the roloc disc, and....what do you know....a month later i spun a main bearing in the middle of Montana!
 
Yeah I've noticed the disk gets smaller and smaller. The stuff is going somewhere. Not something for an assembly that will go back into service without a thurough cleaning. I screwed around and used a wire brush on the Mustang when I last had it down. I noticed a wire bristle on a piston top. Then I spent an hour with a magnent going over ever square inch of internal engine, I actually found 3 more bristiles in the crank case. Must have got them all because it never had a problem.

Vernon
 
try this....

I use a single edge razor blade and pull away from the ports. If you wipe it[ the razor] after each pull most of the junk will stay out of the engine. Also if you can work so the parts are on the side, things will fall away from the engine thanks ro nature. If you have a air compresser you can always give it a shot of air to clean it off as well. The most important thing when you do ANY repair work is "CHANGE the oil" I will start it up,run it for five minutes,to break it in,shut it off at speed,and drain the oil and change the filter. This is also a good time to look at the plugs to see if you are running lean or rich. Yes five minutes is time enought to color the plugs so you can read them...Good luck....Rich
 
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