Timing chain cover

Raptor

Registered User
Has anyone successfully removed and replaced the front engine cover with out any leaks? I'm about to replace the timing chain on a '95 and the shop manual says to drop the pan! Don't want to do that.
Any tips for this project would be greatly appreciated

Thanks,

Bill
 
You don't have to drop the oil pan... The Ford manual says that on every application. Just cover up the front of it as it will be exposed, and you don't want to drop anything in it.

Thomas
 
just trim the old silicone gasket with a razor and make sure its 100% free of oil using brake cleaner(never drop the pan). Also remember to remove the "allen" bolt behind the oil cooler/pump, its easy to miss.

Also use the OEM Ford cover gasket, the aftermarket ones are just cardboard and will leak like the N/A 3.8s do and mix the oil and coolant together. Usually the chains on these last a very long time
 
Justs did mine on my 89 SC....

The first time you work on these, it may seem hard, but it is more time intensive than anything else.

Myth one is that the accessories on the passenger side must be removed. There is nothing on the passenger side that must come off. In contrast though, the entire drivers side must be removed, with the exception of the lower intercooler tube (unless you want to reseal the tubes, not a bad idea while you are in there). To get the Power steering/alternator bracket off w/o removing the lower tube as well, use a 15mm deep socket to remove the nut holding the lower intercooler tube to the p/s bracket. Once that is out, use a 7mm socket to remove the stud from the p/s bracket. I think there are 2 more 15mm bolts and one 15mm nut on a stud that need to be removed, along with the alternator and the two nuts that hold the bracket to the water pump studs (13mm I think). After those are out, the bracket should slide forward and off (oh yeah, it is also a good idea to remove the intercooler and give her a good cleaning with some acetone).

Of course you will have to remove the harmonic balancer (evil thing from Ford), crankshaft position sensor, cam sensor, crankshaft position sensor bracket, and the rest is pretty obvious.

If you need any help at all, please let me know. Like I said in the subject, I just barely finished this last night. It is very fresh in my mind still.

You do it once and the next time it is a piece of cake.

Phil
 
FRONT COVER SEAL

Did any of you replace the front cover seal when you replaced the gasket?

Mine is leaking coolant from the top right side of timing cover. Just beneath the camshaft sensor. No oil leaks.

While I have it apart to replace the front cover gasket, should I replace the lower seal that looks like it is an oil seal rubber o-ring?

Scot
 
Yes....of course you should replace the front crank seal when you change the timing cover gasket. A new seal comes with the timing cover gasket set.
 
ok, now i'm pissed. i finally got the oil pan off of mine (changing the timing chain) and realized i didn't need to drop it. i wish i would have read this post a day ago. i'm so pissed i might fire bomb haynes.
 
I'm doing doing my 3/4 rebuild now and you mention to not use aftermarket cover gasket. I have the felpro conversion kit and everybody says felpro is the gasket too use. I plan on using that with some permatex black coated on both sides along with torquing of the bolts, what do you think?
 
I use Permatex Aviation gasket sealer on that gasket in my GT.
Works like a charm, NO leaks. I also used the Felpro gaskets, no problem there either.;)
 
One more question? What do you think of permatex #2 black? That's also what I plan on using on my lower head bolts. I'm done now, didn't want to steal this thread.
 
#2 Black sealant will work just fine. The only reason I dont like it is because it does'nt cleanup good for crap and once it sets up future disassembly and clean up will kill you.
I would'nt use it on the bolt threads. I've used it on problem threads of screwed pipe but you have to heat the pipe up with a torch to get it to break loose. I used Permatex Teflon pipe thread past for those head bolts and any other bolts that go into the water jackets.
 
I have read where on the SC block the headbolts don't enter the water jackets.

Still I used the ARP teflon thread sealer for all of my parts that enter the water jackets. It looked the same as the oatey brand I have that is used for gas line pipe in homes. Both visually and by the ingrediants and applications listed on the labels.
 
Are you planning to reuse your harmonic balancer? If so, might be at some risk. Lots has been posted on this. At a minimum, get a new centerbold for the balancer (for late model 3.8 Mustang).
 
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