View Full Version : HAS/WOULD anyone let MAACO paint their SC???

04-04-2003, 10:31 PM
I have a 1990 anniversary with the 2 tone black and titanium…

I am at the point where I now have paint flaking off, and I believe the car has been painted before, as where it was flaking, there was black underneath…and the paint that cam off was also black…not sure how the clearcoat was on my car to begin with…. I just plain can’t afford a “real” paintjob. So I used the walmart touchup paint, and most areas are nice and smooth now, but after trying 3 different blacks, it doesn’t match well at all…I sanded the entire hood, and top of the car and all is smooth, but the color difference is too noticeable, and after I used the rubbing compound the top is really perfectly smooth, and no more flaking is expected, BUT the front of the hood began flaking in a new spot, and the more I sand that area, the more it flakes…Now the color difference may well cover a quarter of the hood if I keep going, so I am now contemplating a MAACO paint job. Even in the places I tried to repair, I got down to a red primer an had to cake the touchup paint on and resand several times to cover the little spots showing through… those areas are really noticeable color wise…but are really smooth with noticeable transition in “smoothness”…

The local Maaco did paint my first SC in 96 after it was keyed (a lot!!!) and was really impressed with the quality. BUT I sold the car shortly after so I don’t know how long it lasted, and can’t even remember which one of the options I took or even if the same options are available…Not to mention that there are probably different folks there now… They actually already ticked me off a little. I called them around lunch time today and asked if they had any examples of there work there that I could check out, and he said sure, but when I got there later, they didn’t have anything left that they have painted. They could have mentioned that all their cars were scheduled to be picked up…but that’s no huge deal….

Now if MAACO paint will be that sorry, I will just drive the car like it is for another year or so, but if the middle of the road “presidential” job ($299 for the presidential and the value preparation bundle and an extra $50 for “feathering” the areas that had been flaking), if that will look good for at least 3 years or so hopefully longer with regular waxing, I can deal with it…

I woudl actually like to try painting it myself, as i ahve access to the local military auto hobby shop, where they have a paint booth, and all the equipment, but I know nothing about painting a car at all, and don't really know anyone that could guide through that kind of project. I will do a new thread one that possibility as well...

Opinions please???

Thanks a lot!

04-04-2003, 10:36 PM
Maaco does a relatively good job painting cars. I let them paint my 78 280Z, and it came out very nice. Deep shine, and very little if any orange peel, and that was with no compounding. It sits in the garage so no idea what sun will do to it. For $600 I was pleased.

My sister had a mercury capri painted by Earl Scheib and it was pitiful. Texture everywhere and very dull.

04-04-2003, 10:53 PM
Sounds to me that the car should be stripped to at least the primer. The paint keeps chipping because the paint underneath has poor adheison. Light sand and refinish, and the paint will peal again. What ever shop you bring it to will only do as good a job as the person working on it and the quality control of the shop foreman. You may want to remove the trim, strip and prime it your self and let a pro do the magic with the finish work and paint. You should end up with great results. Use a urithane primer.
Good luck, Mark

04-04-2003, 11:53 PM
if you let them touch your car you will regret it after its done. i've seen the crap they put out and being a "body shop manager" i wouldn't let them touch anything i own even a bycycle.
they paint over everything and don't even try to sand the paint for adhesion (paint peels off), and will look worse than before.
i don't even want to touch someone's car that has been fixed there.
do your homework ask for references/ pics/ etc. remember you get what you pay for.

04-05-2003, 02:31 AM
in NYC...You never get what you pay for......count the hours someone spend prepping and painting your car.....Take the amount you spent and subtract material costs...:::all I can say is..FAGGETTTAABBOOUUTTIITTTTT

04-05-2003, 02:55 AM
Here in OKC over the years I have had MAACO do three cars for me. Two were really pretty good, depending on the prep that was done. The last one I had to take it back to them 5 times until I was satisfied. This time though was a situation where the owner had known me before but was injured and not available to "watch the kids". The fourth time I had to take it back, he had gone to the office from the hospital in a wheel chair on his way home and happened to be there when I was questioning the "kids". He looked at the car and told them fix it right or lose their jobs. They did and it looked fine.
I suppose it depends on who runs the place and what they consider a good job. I have always found the "$600" paint job a good starting point but I always had them do at least decent prep and still got a good paint job without the thousands body shops told me it would cost. IF it isn't going to be a show car but you want it nice, just stay on their butts and get them to do it right and you should be okay. The surface prep is the main thing to get right. Anyone can shoot paint but prep takes time.

Good luck.

04-05-2003, 04:53 AM
Got my red '94 estimated at Maaco... the estimate was ok, but the guy told me that my car was not a clear-coat color. According to my '94 sales book, all the colors were clearcoats (maybe it was all of the SC colors?)

04-07-2003, 02:46 AM
Macco did my car 2 years ago its alittle faded but nothing a good wax n buff won't fix go for it!!they did mine for $350 and change w/body work!!

Parker Dean
04-07-2003, 04:59 AM
Years ago a co-worker took his F150 over to MAACO but only AFTER he'd done all the prep work. All they had to do was tape the windows and shoot it. And I suppose degrease it (I hope). But they still managed to paint it black first LOL! They had to shoot it again in the requested Grey. It looked OK for a couple of years and then he moved.

Another friend had his Caravan painted there and you could tell it was an inferior paint job. Orange peel, runs, etc. but it was still a lot better than what went before. This one started peeling after a few months but it was one of those bad-primer Chryslers too. Anyway they weren't too helpful about getting it fixed either.

All in all I'd just use them for a dirt cheap car I was going to sell. And even then I'd be looking for an independent shop first.

04-07-2003, 09:43 AM
I think it all boils down to the people running/working in that particular shop. I had my SC painted by Maaco five years ago. It cost me $600 incl. some rust removal and I thought the quality was excellent! In the last five years the car has never been garaged and it still looks glossy. I will be bringing it back to the same shop this month for another paint job, because the lack of garaging has left many scratches, dings, etc., plus some minor rust here and there... But I brought it to that particular Maaco shop because somebody else recommended it. Perhaps a different shop would have done a crappy job. Ask around and get a reference from somebody who has good results at a particular place.

Aaron Pedroza
04-07-2003, 10:37 AM
A lot of those cheap companies all use the same paint, even some of the more expensive companies use the same paint. The only real difference is the prep work. Do it yourself and you'll be happy I'm sure. A good thing to do too is take a walk around their shop before you decide to do it, look at what's there. Each shop will be different, it's not as much the name.

04-07-2003, 10:46 AM
I got mine done in black, the 2 year waranty it seems ok .............may be the local shop that you went to.................FAST FREDDIE;) ;) :rolleyes:

04-07-2003, 12:12 PM
I would ask exactly what they are using for material, both brand and type. Urethanes and epoxies are by far the best. Epoxy primer > urethane 'surfacers' (which is a scratch filler and to smooth over repairs) > sealer (I use Epoxy primer mixed to be a sealer) > base coat (I use 3M Diamont or Valspar Polyester bases)> Polyurethane clear.

Most all of the base/clear companies use the same base stock. I work for Bayer Corporation, yes the aspirin people but they are very big in chemicals/polymers too. Bayer's one of 2 or 3 companies that makes the base stock for urethane clears and many urethane type paints/primers. Bayer also happens to do alot of R&D for Valspar and sells them the base stocks. So, that's why I use Valspar's stuff. It's about 2/3 the price of PPG, 3M, Dupont etc etc, but is the exact same product.

04-07-2003, 08:24 PM
Interesting, about Bayer and Valspar!

04-08-2003, 12:43 AM
Originally posted by mark
Interesting, about Bayer and Valspar!

Ya, it kinda freaked me out. When I repainted the SC in '99, I was BS'ing with a guy in the office. He was on a project that had people from all over the chemicals/polymers sites. He asked what I paint I used on it and I said it was the cheaper brand from my local paint shop. Valspar was the name. He starts laughing and yells over the cube, " Hey Gordon, guess what Steve used to paint his car?" It just so happens that this Gordon guy worked at the Bayer site where they make/test the Valspar stuff. :) That's how I found out so much about where the base stocks come from and what the Valspar product really was.


04-08-2003, 01:31 AM
I has also probed into the realm of doing it myself, and have gotten tons of guidance from "onequicksc" and other web research.

Granted I'm going from stripped to the metal; etching primer; 2k primer surfacer/sealer; and a urethane clearcoat and separate basecoat. The materials formt he shop I am more likely to use if I decide (more like when) it was $330 just for the paint, primers, and misc additives.

MACCO was $350 for a non clearcoated "acrylic" and primer...plus "feathering a few spots... If seen and liked there work, I would still be worried about it flaking becasue the paint undderneath was flaking in several places.... I have fixed the offendin areas now, but there is discoloration and I don't know how long before it flakes more....

I'd just assume spend another hundred or so when its said and done for a paint job I know will last!

That said, even if I did get em to go bare metal and prime, etc, it woudl still be prett cheap... they must be using some cheapass paint.... of course they prolly buy in bulk and pay hal;f as much, but they can't be making much $$$ of a paint job...

04-08-2003, 11:37 AM
Mike, just one thing so as not to confuse you when you purchase materials;
If you are indeed going to strip her down to bare metal, after the etching primer you need a 2k epoxy primer SEALER , not primer/surfacer. Only buy the surfacing primer IF you don't strip the car. The surfacer levels out all all feathered /sanded areas and imperfections etc. which won't be present if you go down to nice flat metal.

You can spray the paint right over the primer sealer, without sanding. You would have to sand a primer/surfacer before painting.

Just remember, you never have to sand a sealer product.

As far as Maaco goes, all I'll say is this; you get what you pay for. Quality materials are expensive, as well as labor that doesn't cut corners. They fill a niche, but it's not for enthusiasts and demanding car owners. With Mike's material list as expensive as a Maaco paint job, that should tell you something. My paint cost was about the same back in 1997, but the paint still looks as if it was sprayed last week. No delamination, no cracking, no fade.

It all depends on your standards, your finances, and just how long you expect to keep your car. Not everything is for everybody. Cheers.

Aaron Pedroza
04-08-2003, 11:41 AM
Might I say, that is a sweeeeeeet paint job on your car.

04-08-2003, 12:06 PM
The dude said I needed an etching primer, and then said I could use a 2k primer/surfacer/sealer (all in one deal) and said I could block this product...he recommended this product over a 2k primer and an additional sealer becasue there are only 3 very minor "mini-dings" in my body (unless more have been filled before, but I don't think so)

I am almost considering just spraying the hood roof with something cheap until I can get the whole car done (and for practice?)... I think I might should put some money into other areas of the car and paint it last, but I have saved all your responses, and you have indeed answered many of my questions, and again I appreciate it!

In fact, the guy at one paint shop was telling me not to strip the whole car, in fact told me just to patin above this crease in the body,:
but honestly, I'd rather do the whole thing at once, and make it look really nice...

I am beginning to really like that extreme gloss you have laid down on your bird! Is that the original ford color black with just the extra Clear, or a differnt black?

I hate to try this in haste, and realy want to do it right, I really didn't know the paint would be so expensive either... still explorin...maybe I'll get lucky and more paint will fall off....forcing me to buy a good compressor and gun setup...

BTW, I did have a fewmore ???s about the gun anbd such on that other post if ya don't mind kind-sir :D

04-08-2003, 01:46 PM
A few months after I got my SC a girl rear ended me in traffic. My rear bumper was scratched up pretty good but otherwise undamaged.

She wanted to pay me in cash but I told her that I thought it was going to be a lot of money. She told me that she had a $500 deductable on her insurance so to absorb the deductable plus the increased premium the following year, it was worth it for her to pay cash.

So me being a nice guy, I go shopping around to a few independant shops. The first shop wanted $850 to remove the bumper/trim, strip down, re-prime, color match and clear coat then re-assemble. Second shop wanted $600 and third shop said $500.

When I told the girl this her boyfriend thought I was pulling their chains to get extra $$$. So he told me to take it to Maaco. I was a little worried at first. I took it there and they said $350. However, they did NOT remove the bumper, and you can tell where the paint line is under where the taillights meet the bumper. And about a year later the clear coat started to peel around the black strip. Also on close inspection there were tiny bubbles on the paint, indicitive of dust.

They did however get the paint color matched properly. But like onequickSC mentioned, you get what you pay for. I think if you reallly really want to and spend the money for the maxium quality paint package that Maaco offers, you can spend like $1000 and get a decent quality job. This fares much better than the $3000 that a professional independant shop would charge. Plus you get a 1 year warranty. However, if you are picky, then you might want to supply the paint, primer and do some of the prep work yourself.

I had a buddy that had his jeep done and he removed all the trim and did alot of the prep work to his jeep before having them touch it. When he was done the jeep looked great and upon close inspection you couldn't tell there was any overspray since he did the prep work.

04-08-2003, 05:36 PM
I hope this and the "DIY paint" thread helps people make some decisions.
Mike, I was unaware there was such a product as a surfacing/sealer/primer in 1, but that's good to know, I'm certainly not up on everything that's come on scene lately, and I hadn't read about them. That is evidently
the one type of sealer that does need to be sanded. Sounds like a good product for your needs.

I can't tell you which route to take, it's got pro's and con's either way, and you're the one that is spending the $$$.

Good luck, hope it all works as you need it to. Cheers. Dan H

04-09-2003, 11:25 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll try it out. I am still sceptical, I have tried several cheaper clears on my own dailey drivers to see how they hold up, such as dura-gloss marhyde, trans star. There are definate differances with they way they lay down, dry, gloss and durability. The PPG brand has several options as well as RM. There are plenty I don't know about. There sure are a lot of choises. However I feel safe with a RM or PPG on Quality vehicles.
But I will give it a try. Thanks again.

PS : Back to the MACO subject. Does any one know what they use for paint and clear.
i have heard that there paints are very soft and scratch easiley. I really don't know.
Any other feed back would be good to know.

04-10-2003, 01:16 AM
Originally posted by mark
Thanks for the info. I'll try it out. I am still sceptical, I have tried several cheaper clears on my own dailey drivers to see how they hold up, such as dura-gloss marhyde, trans star. There are definate differances with they way they lay down, dry, gloss and durability. The PPG brand has several options as well as RM. There are plenty I don't know about. There sure are a lot of choises. However I feel safe with a RM or PPG on Quality vehicles.
But I will give it a try. Thanks again.

PS : Back to the MACO subject. Does any one know what they use for paint and clear.
i have heard that there paints are very soft and scratch easiley. I really don't know.
Any other feed back would be good to know.

Macco actually ha several options....including various acrylics, urethanes, and a "mix in clearcoat" and a separate clearcoat, and also several prep options from bare metal to just a sealer on our old paint....

Like I said it has to be cheap paint given the prices I found on the middle of the road "Matrix" BC/CC system and preping primers, etc... I was quoted about $340 for all, of it...Macco wanted 350 for mine, includingn some feathering where m paint had flaked off...

I have actually diverted my painting endevours for a little while, I have decided to give it a few months and have just removed my back seats, and sending them off to be redone (see the coverline thread in "group buy" forum) I am going to get me a good compressor, and a spray gun over the summer, (don't want to skimp on the compressor and gun) and hopefully I will be bugging ole "onequickSC" toward the end of summer or so when I get ready to do it! But I may have to wait until the spring if hot/humid weather is a factor... Guess it's better to paint after I get all the other little stuff fixed anyways...

04-10-2003, 05:20 PM
All of these responses have truly been interesting for sure.How ever ,with maaco the difference is these are franchises so each shop is different you have to shop around and find a good shop with work ethics . Some have them and some are like McDonald's painting service ya know get'em in get'em out. "Quality of paint "not withstanding. Personally when I painted cars I used PPG paint exclusively but I only know how to paint in lacquer witch is no longer available because of the environmental effects. Damned Greenpeace! But like I said look for a good shop environment look at the help see if they are sloppy in appearance dirty from working a long day is one thing but hungover from the night before and in the same work clothes is another I am very satisfied with the job maybe I was lucky but I don;t think luck accounts for 2 yrs with out a problem with the paint IE: peeling and before mentioned problems .

04-10-2003, 09:08 PM
i would never let those macco guys touch my baby, atleast not the shop near me, i have seen their work.....yeech..feeling woosey....

04-11-2003, 07:43 AM
car painting by Joel Geoghegan
I started painting cars in 1955 no that's not a typo 1955 you could get the best paint job for $55.00
and now I start at $1000.00 . the problem one gal. of enamel
was$ 5.00 exsept red that was $6.00 you could get black on sale for $3.00 I got paid one dollor and ten cent's per hr.
all hand labor it took a lot of beer after work and at lunch to work in that field ( auto painter )
today it cost$55.00 to have a painter just standing in the shop with basic
cost's latex gloves L&I taxe's ect. today
materiels (GOOD) alone can cost up to$ 600.00 for a car the size
of a tbird sc.
If you love your sc. like I do mine you will hold on untill you can step up with a grand at least to get a same color good paint job
if you get a cheep one it will protect your investment if it is preped corectly but remember a $2000.00 job is only as good as
the prereration and the paint under it.
plus you dont want more than two paint job's on a car!
when I am selling a used car I prep it myself before I take it
to maco yes I let them paint my low budjet cars.
I presser wash them with a lot of dish soap and use a red scuff pad on the whole car that you want the paint to stick to.
use your wife's tooth brush to get in and around the tight spot a good rule of thumb is any spot you cant get with a sander ( use a
old cd. to get a idea of about the sander size wrap it in a rag
so you dont scratch what paint you have go around you'r whole car in ten minute's and dont hit any molding's door handel's you will find you miss alot dont forget your geting minimum wage and you will never see this car again!
you have a hang over and just want to go home or the bar
or go in the paint room and sniff some paint reduser or thinner and smoke a joint NOW that dosent make the scuffer a bad guy what would you do! if you took the time to do a good job you would get fired ! production body shops are the armpit of the
automotive business.
now the painter could care even less they just dont get payed enough to care .I have been the business over fourty year's
and I get up to$3000.00 or more for a paint job and I make more money an a beeter job most of the time having one of my men prep it and send it maco.remember the make there own paint and there color's are bacic.
if you have the place to do it I would prep it the best you know how and do it again wash and scuff the [email protected]#t out of it and mask it dont forget to pack the around moter with news paper and
mask off any thing you dont want over spray on ! paint it with DP40 it's that the semigloss paint that you see on mustang hood's strips ect. that will seal it untell you can do it right but be prerared to spend at least $200.00 for that .
I have it on my 1929 ford tudor and it looks good it come's in black but ask your paint dealer about a product that will seal and can be tinted any color you want if you wish but stick with the black and you wont be disapointed dont let you'r budys talk you into pink or red or bla bla
some other bitchen color they saw on a sweet honda ( you ) have to live with it they dont ! ok ////ok
and thats my rant russell n joel
you steal one cow when you are 12 year's old and!!!!
you can contact me if you wish at [email protected]
good luck and keep you boost up