View Full Version : Tranny Swap walk through

04-06-2003, 03:54 AM
Was wondering how difficult it is to take out my m5r2 and replace it with another.

If anyone could post a walk through I would appreciate it.

04-08-2003, 10:54 PM
OK get ready, and get a shop manual of some sort to reference.

READ this several times AND refer to manual before attempting this procedure!!!!!!!

Make sure that you have all the parts and tools: New clutch assy., throw out bearing, new slave cylinder and pilot bearing. Tool to disconnect hydraulic connector and clutch alignment tool.

1.You're gonna need a lift or some tall ramps or heavy jack stands. (you have to get the car high enough off the ground to to fit the trannies) It's a royal ~~~~ to do it on the floor but it can be done(I know!)
2. Transmission jack or adapter for floor jack.
3. Drain the trans.
4. Disconnect the battery.
5. Remove the console, shifter boot and unbolt shift handle.
6. Once you get the car up, use a Good 12 mm box wrench and undo the rear u-joint u-bolts. Then pull the shaft forward free of the pinion, then push it up and back stuffing it over the diff. (this way you don't have to pull the gas tank).
7. Pull the starter.
8.Remove the front half of the exhaust.
9. Disconnect wiring harness.
10. Disconnect clutch hydraulic line and bag it to keep out dirt.
11. Position trans jack. MAKE SURE it's supporting the trans.
12. Start removing bolts from bellhousing (REMEMBER which ones went where).(It's probobaly best to put something under the oil pan to support the engine when you pull the trans)
13. Remove the trans crossmember.
14. (It's best to have someone else there for this step) Make sure all the transbolts are removed (top ones need a long extension. Then slowly pull the trans back to to disconnect from engine. you may need to let the engine drop a little to let the trans come back. Be careful cuz it's a little heavy. Lower trans and remove from jack.
15. Remove clutch assy from flywheel.
16. Use a slide hammer with inside jaws or large wooden dowel and some thick grease and a hammer to pop out the input bearing (dowel has to bearly fit inside the brg)beware of the grease when it pops.
17. Clean pilot hole and flywheel and insert new brg.(should be prelubed)
18. clean flywheel again this time use brake cleaner to remove ALL grease and oil.
19. Bolt on (do not torque yet) pressure plate and new disk. (SAKS makes a complete set thats not to expensive, comes with pressure plate disk, throw out, pilot brg and alignment tool. Have to get Slave cyl seperate)
20. insert alignment tool, when all is sat, torque.

21. Inspect new/used trans, remove slave if attached and clean inside bell housing. Might want to remove rear seal and install new one (safe).
22. Install new slave cyl.
23. When all is ready, mount trans on jack and lift into position.(make sure trans is in gear so you can turn the output shaft to position the input shaft when mating trans to engine) Match angle of trans to engine to make for smoothest insertion.
24. Ease trans input shaft into clutch assy and pilot brg.
25. Align bellhousing locating pins and push.
26. Install a bolts in belhousing.
27. Install trans crossmember.
28. Connect hyd line, add brake fluid to clutch resivore and bleed.( careful not to get fluid on clutch assy!!!!)
29. Connect wiring harness, exhaust, starter and driveshaft.

Good luck. Mike

05-25-2003, 07:22 AM
Would It help to remove the drive shaft from the trans? :)

05-25-2003, 04:40 PM
See step 6.:p

05-25-2003, 04:57 PM
Must have over looked that sorry.

06-02-2005, 09:20 PM
Can I do the same with the driveshaft on a '90 AOD? I really don't want to play with gas just yet.

06-02-2005, 11:29 PM
Can I do the same with the driveshaft on a '90 AOD? I really don't want to play with gas just yet.Yes you can. It helps to pull the bolts holding the diff and let it droop down. This of course means you have to remove the exhaust, both front and back sections and then lower the pumpkin, but you have to do that regardless.. But still a lot easier than removing the gas tank. Even then the drive shaft may not clear the yoke.. thats OK.. when you unbolt the trans from then engine, you'll have room to push it back and then tilt it down and the shaft will come right out.
A word to the wise... siphon out the trans fluid from the pan first and drain the torque converter. ;)

06-03-2005, 12:16 AM
I don't remove the rear exhaust the pumpkin will come down just enough to get the shaft back with the exhaust still in place. Just take the 4 bolts out and let it hang on the axles.

11-06-2005, 12:31 AM
I know I'm bringing back an OLD tread. But I just have to say "Thank You" to you guys on this tread for suggesting to drop the differential instead of dropping the gas tank to get the driveshaft out!

I removed my transmission today and it took less than 3 hours with a coffee break in the middle. :D Dropped the diff. I did have to lower the rear of the exhaust though, but not biggee. I pushed the driveshaft up and out. Removed the front of the exhaust, cables, unbolted the converter, thank God I had a drain plug for the tranny-that is the best invention in the world!-unbolted the tranny and down. Piece of cake. I couldn't have prayed for it to be any easier!
Now, wish me luck on putting my new one in tomorrow.

Thanks again guys!


04-13-2013, 03:01 PM
If you have an automotive lift available follow these instructions.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Place transmission shift lever in Neutral position, then remove shift lever knob.
3. Remove console upper cover, then remove shifter retaining bolts and shifter.
4. Raise and support vehicle, then drain oil from transmission.
5. Remove body re-enforcement in front axle.
6. Disconnect exhaust pipe from resonator.
7. Remove driveshaft to companion flange retaining bolts.
8. Position suitable axle stand under front axle, then remove forward and rearward retaining nuts and bolt plate.
9. Remove vent tube from hole in sub-frame, then lower front axle assembly and slide driveshaft from transmission. Position drive shaft on front driveshaft support.
10. Remove catalytic converter.
11. Disconnect clutch hydraulic line from actuating cylinder.
12. Remove starter motor assembly.
13. Position suitable transmission jack under transmission, then remove crossmember.
14. Remove flywheel housing to engine attaching bolts, then remove transmission from vehicle.

1. Secure transmission assembly on transmission jack. Install guide studs in the engine block and raise transmission until input shaft splines are aligned with clutch disc splines.
2. Slide transmission forward on guide studs until it is positioned in the vehicle.
3. Install bellhousing-to-engine retaining bolts. Tighten to 54-67 N.m (40-50 lb-ft).
4. Install crossmember. Tighten bolts to 47-68 N.m (35-50 lb-ft).
5. Remove transmission jack.
6. Connect electrical connectors.
7. Connect hydraulic clutch line.
8. Install starter.
9. Install catalytic converter assembly.
10. Slide driveshaft into transmission. NOTE: Lubricate driveshaft yoke splines with C1AZ-19590-BA or equivalent prior to installation. When installing driveshaft, align index marks on flange on yoke.
11. Raise axle housing with axle stand and install bushings and retaining nuts, Tighten to 92-136 N.m (68-100 lb-ft). Remove axle stand.
12. Position vent tube in hole of sub-frame.
13. Align driveshaft yoke and companion flange, and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 95-129 N.m (70-95 lb-ft).
14. Connect exhaust pipe muffler assembly to resonator.
15. Lower vehicle.
16. Position shifter and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 24-33 N.m (18-24 lb-ft).
17. Install console top cover.
18. Install shifter knob.
19. Connect battery ground cable.