Back up and running with BHJ and March UD's, got ?

94scnflt

Registered User
So after almost 2 months of my baby sitting in the garage collecting dust, I got her back up and running. I can't say it was an easy road, but here is my story.
I had the all to familiar problem of the HB bolt snapping in half on the freeway. I got a new BHJ from SCP but got sent the early modle instead of the late model, one quick call to Bill E. and he hokked me up. I also went with a set of March UD's to help out the car in the power department. The second problem, the alternator pulley didn't come with the correct spacer. I called March and they sent out a new pulley with 2 different spacers to try. I would just like to add that the alt. on a 94 SC is a pain to get in and out and thank goodness for the compressor and impact gun my dad got me for my B-day, that helped get the nut off that thing and to get it back on. I finally had all my parts and new nuts and bolts, anti seize and locktight. I went to Autozone and rented a HB installer (that thing worked like a champ) and a remover just incase. I had gotten some good measurements off my crank snout and to my surprise the new BHJ was within the .001-.0015 limit (had a machine shop verify it) It took some work but I got the HB on, and put on the new pulley. Here is where my first question comes in. I installed the HB until the hall effect ring was ligned up correct with the crank posistion sensor. I put the new bolt and washer on and it seems like only about 1/4-1/2 of the bolt threads are screwed in due to where the washer and the HB meet up, is this normal. It all seems tight and I got it torqued down to 122 ft/lbs, and the book calls for 103-132 (that was a pain, I had all the belts on and had to hold them to keep the engine from turning while I was trying to torque it). I just don't want to have this bolt break again and have to go through this all over. Also, they key is ingaged, but I can't tell how much is actually on the HB. The HB has a good tight fit on the crank shaft and the bolt is the new Mustang bolt.
Anyway, I put on a new lower radiator hose and gator back belts. The car runs a little hotter now with that water pump pulley, almost had it overheat one time, but other then that I can fell the power increase with the UD's, I had forgotten just how fast that thing is. I still have little things here and there, but I can drive her again.
Sorry this was so long, but if you have any thoughts on that bolt situation, please let me know. Thanks.
 
94scnflt My bolt fit the same. I havent had any problems for about 1500 miles.
But it seems that the bolt would go in farther.
 
Randy

At least I am not the only one who thought this. Anyway, I kept the old broken bolt and looking at it I had to pull 1/2 if it out of the crank shaft and the top 1/2 broke off and landed on that rubber rock gaurd by the front sway bar. So it seems that only 1/2 the bolt is designed to screw in leaving the other 1/2 out. I can't see how this is right, but if that is how Ford built them than that is what they wanted. Thanks for your input.
 
I have the same setup along with a 180deg thermostat and 4-row core in the radiator. I have no problems at all with heat. Try burping the system again and getting it flushed.

I had to buy my own installer - the AutoZones in my area don't carry the installation tool

Aaron
 
Take a 13mm and open the vent on the thermostat housing, don't remove it, just loosen it till you can see the hole. Then start the car, and when coolant starts running out of it, tighten it up and then you are good to go. You might have a little air in the system.
 
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