fast92,
First off, please tell me your name...I hate responding to people when I don't know what to call them.
Your car may be fine....I'm just telling you that installing a dry nitrous system with a questionable fuel supply is playing with fire. I can't tell you exactly what to do. I've already given you my opionion on what fuel pump you need, to insure adaquate fuel delivery. Some people may say that is overkill, but it's much safer to be too rich than to run lean and toast your engine.
Being that your still a teenager, I'm sure this was an under investigated impulse buy..and now you want a quick answer on what to do. Here is the quick answer....Put the stuff you bought on and raise the pressure to 45 psi static, don't spray until you are on a dyno with a wide band o2 sensor. Most places will give you three pulls for $100. If you can't keep the AF ratio under 13.0:1 when spraying then you better stop until you get more fuel.
Get more fuel by installing the forced induction pump or using larger injectors (38s or 42s) and running stock pressures with the 255 pump you already have. BTW, stock fuel pressure is 39.5.
94skinflint,
Ditto on the name thing please.
I have an autometer gauge installed and it goes to rich at WOT if that helps out at all and only goes lean at heavy decel, other thean that it just bounces back and forth from slight lean to rich while driving. Will the larger fuel pump and injectors help and should I go with a forced induction with or without a FPR?
Will a chip help and should I have the O2 dyno before I order one?
Will a chip help without a new pump and injectors?
IMO, The Autometer A/F ratio gauge is a nice lightshow. I had one that did the same thing...totally useless because it gets data from the o2 sensors which can't read a wide enough range to tell you anything. I've have seen several indicate pig rich, and the engines were actually dangerously lean (mine included).
Yes the larger pump and injectors will help, and are probably long overdue. The forced induction pump cost a little more but fits in the stock location and is capable of flowing much more fuel under higher pressures. It insures that fuel flow doesn't slow down under max boost when you need it most.
If you planning to get a custom chip burned you don't need the adjustable FPR. Apten can burn the chip based on your mod list and get it close. After the chip is in, make a couple dyno pulls with a wide band o2 and e-mail them a copy of the sheet to determine if a re-burn is required. I would assume yours may take a couple re-burns to get it dialed in.
Most cars at your mod level gain around 20-25 HP just by getting a good dyno tune. I re-tune mine after each major mod, like ported blowers or FMIC. Here is a link to Brian Herron's company (Apten) that does the tuning on my car.
http://www.apten-us.com/
David