Labour Costs???

SickWhip

Registered User
Hey Guys,

Just a quick question. I have a transmission leak. My Dad says it's coming from the seal at the rear of the transmission near the tail stock (???) Does that make any sense. Sorry I'm not too familiar with transmissions. I was just wondering, ballpark, what kind of $$$ it would cost to replace that seal/gasket. I know that you have to drop the gas tank and driveshaft. Any Help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!! I appreciate it!
 
Not sure if you have a manual tranny ot not. I can speak to the manual version though. Yes the Extension Housing Seal is replaceable although I cannot verify it is with the tranny in the car. (Should be but can't say for sure.) You would have to remove the driveshaft to get to it. You can pry the old one out with screwdrivers. If helps to have the proper tool to install the new one. I imagine with care you could do it with common tools. Make sure you install the seal with the "drain hole" oriented towards the bottom or ground side of the tranny though.
 
Hey,

Thanks for the reply Duffy, I really appreciate the help man. Do you have any idea how much that would cost to get a shop to do it?? A ballpark would be cool, just so I know what to expect. Thanks A BUNCH man. Have a nice night! BTW, Mine is an Auto
 
I checked the manual (Ford Helms) and on the 4R70W tranny you have it appears the seal is replaceable with the tranny installed although that again is just a guess given I am not sure of the clearances under the car. I have no idea how many hours a shop will charge but I would say less than 4 hours?????? You ahould be aware there is another seal in that area of the tranny that does not appear to be accessible without disassembly of the extension housing from the tranny. Not sure exactly where the leak is but now at least you know to look well.

Auto trannies are not my cup of tea so this advise is nothing but a SWAG based on what I see in the Manual.

Let me know how good my SWAG was huh?
 
Joe there is a trick for the MN12 Chassis that allows for tranny work without dropping the tank. You can either follow these instructions to do it yourself or explain this to your mechanic to cut down on labor time ($$$). I am in the business and we are very reasonable. At our shop this would be about $100 with the vast majority of it being labor time. The seal shouldn't be more than $10 your cost from a shop. But our competitor right down the highway from us would get at least $350 for this job. Shop around. Most of our customers are repeat business, most of theirs are first and last time customers. We stress over how to get it all done they stress over who to screw to cover payroll.

Remove the four bolts holding the rear of the driveshaft onto the differential flange with a 12 point 12 mm or 12 mm wrench. Make sure to mark the position so it goes back together in the same place. Push the shaft forward into the tranny as far as it will fit.

Now notice the differential is held onto the rear sub-frame by four large bolts and nuts. Put a 15 mm wrench onto the top of the bolts and use a socket to loosen the two rear nuts down to the end of the bolt but not coming off. Now remove the front two nuts from the bolts. Use a jack or helper to slowly lower the front of the diff after the last nut is coming off.

Now with the front of the diff hanging low slide the driveshaft backwards, over the flange and onto the top of the diff as far as it will fit. The front of the driveshaft will slide out of the tranny tailshaft allowing you to replace the seal yourself.

Use a small screwdriver or a putty knife to tap inbetween the tailshaft and the seal and pry it out a little. Then grab the lip with some vise-grip pliers and knock it back with a hammer to remove the old seal.

The best way to install the new seal is with a large socket or piece of tubing/pipe that matches the outer diameter of the seal. Then you can knock it in quickly with a hammer. If you have to you can work it in slowly with just a hammer by tapping side to side until it gets started then working in a circle to make sure it seats evenly all the way down.

Reverse the above steps to reassemble the driveshaft and diff. It helps to have the car on a lift or as high as you can get it on stands. Use blue lock-tite on the driveshaft flange bolts on install.

Torque the front diff nuts to 68-100 ft. lb.
rear diff bracket to sub-frame nuts 122-156 ft lb
driveshaft to flange bolts 70-95 ft lbs

Vernon
 
Wow,

Thanks a bunch guys. That was REALLY helpful. The Tranny shop I brought my SC to, is a guy that my Dad has been dealing with all of his life, my grandfather too. My grandfather used to own a local taxi service here in Windsor, and thats who he always went to. So hopefully he hooks me up. Once again, thanks a bunch guys, I really appreciate it! Take Care!
 
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