Proir accumulator different? w/pic

JWXR7

Registered User
I am in the middle of changing my accumulator and everything is going good, but when I removed my stock acc the nipple end looks different from the one I bought from Prior (see picture, left is old right is Prior part). Is this normal? Will the Prior one fit and work fine?
 

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JW I'm just about to do this same thing this morning. I bought mine from a Ford dealer that we have an account with. In the box was a small instruction sheet that says:

There are two alternate accumulators for service which are not interchangeable.

Ensure that the replacement accumulator and the one removed from the vehicle have the same nipple length.

If this is not done the pump and accumulator will be damaged.

Since I can't post the diagram I'll tell you what the two they picture are.

New: Ford part no. EBOY-2C231-A,
(nipple length from o-ring base to tip end)
15.25-15.75 mm or .600 to .620 inch

Old: E8OY-2C231-B
11.9-12.1 mm or .469-.476 inch.

The thing that's keeping me from giving you a deffinate answer is that the drawings on this diagram don't look exactly like your nipples. One does, the flat plain one. But the other one on my diagram seems to have a internal dome, it may be like yours with the smaller opening but reversed not a dish. the odd one is the new part #.

Just make sure the length from the o-ring land is the same as yours, if not don't use it and exchange it for the right one.

One thing before you run off to check, how much did you have to pay Prior? I looked up their site but couldn't find a separate listing for it and got tired of waiting on hold when I called. Mine cost me $175.10 and I had it that afternoon.

Vernon
 
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The PriorReman part should be fine. As Vernon stated they were two types of nipples used on these accumulators. I believe Prior has gone to just the short one for all applications.
 
The shorter nipple can be used in both the long and short orifices. The longer nipple can ONLY be used in the longer orifice. Thats what the Ford warning doesn't completely state and why the prior part will work in both applications.
 
Don't forget to save your old one for Halloween.

Stick a fuse in the top, light it, and roll it out your front door at the kids trick-or-treating!:D
 
hey thanks guys. I'll go put it together now.
Vernon, I paid $99.95 + shipping for my accumulator.
Hey John, thats a good idea. I'll bet that would really bang if you loaded it with pyrodex. \

My original accumulator had a sticker on it describing the orifice length and giving the part #s for old and new. I wonder if it has been changed once before? Oh well, I don't care as long as this fixes my brakes.
 
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The prior will work fine. I installed one two years ago when they were $75, should have bought 2, price up 33% in two years.

Jerry
 
well the accumulator didn't seem to fix my problem. please goto my other thread labeled "problem w/ brakes" and give me some input if you can. I don't want to replace the whole abs assembly for something like air trapped in the system. thank you
 
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JWXR7 said:
well the accumulator didn't seem to fix my problem. please goto my other thread labeled "problem w/ brakes" and give me some input if you can. I don't want to replace the whole abs assembly for something like air trapped in the system. thank you
Have you bled the whole system? Even though a new accumulator doesn't need to be bled, I think its a good idea anyway. I pulled a lot of gunky looking fluid out of my back brake lines last time I bled them. FYI, you bleed th rear brakes with the key on engine off to keep the fluid moving. The front brake calipers don't require the accumulator to be charged, hence the key can be off. Clear tubing IMO is a must to see that all the air is pushed out.
 
Yup, bled and flushed around 4qts of brake fluid thru the system since the problem started. At least 1qt since the new accumulator. I'm starting to think a seal went out in the actuator assembly. See the many details listed in other thread.
 
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