These ******* plugs and wires...HELP

Tony8470

Registered User
Ok, after spending about 3 hours out under the car, i managed to get the #6 plug replaced and the #5 ignition wire torn to shreds. I am so incredibly mad at how hard this is to get these plugs out. I searched almost every single thread on this site and others about how to change the plugs and wires. But no, when I actually get out there I might as well throw all the info I found out the window. This is what I used, ratchet, 6" and 10" extensions and a movable joint. I couldnt even fit my arm anywhere under the car for cylinders 1-3 so I took off the intake and coolant reservior, that was useless.....all kinds of a/c hoses in the way. On cylinders 4-6 I went under the car, this part wasnt too hard except for the fact I couldnt fit my arms very well in there, I'm thinking of just taking it to the mechanic if hes willing to use my plugs and wires and spend 200 to get it done. This is ridiculous, this car is going to be FUBAR'D if I try anything else.
 
Hello,

I can feel your frustration, having recently completed a plug and wire change on the '89 I just bought.

The task is difficult, but not impossible. I used rachets, extensions, u-joints and some open and box end wrenches. You definitely need a spark plug socket with a foam insert and a hex on the top end where the rachet drive slides into it. This hex is useful when you cannot get the rachet drive into the socket.

It also helps if your hands are not too large. I am only 5'6" and have a moderate build so do not have large hands. It also helps to have many years of experience working in tight places by feel. I have worked on many engines and this is definitely one of the toughest I have encountered to change plugs and wires. It took me about 6 - 8 hours to do the whole job. My V12 Jaguar takes less time for twice as many plugs!

The best bet if you are going to complete the job yourself is to have another car to drive so you can take whatever time it takes without having to rush. Also, put in quality plugs and wires so you do not have to do it again soon. I installed double platinum plugs and Magnecor wires.

Good luck!

Kern Fischer
 
Last edited:
hey dont' feel bad, i have NEVER had anyone else change spark plugs or do tune up stuff for me, until i got my SC! I was gonna do it myself, cause i didnt trust any shop to do it. i was afraid that they would either (a) not change all the plugs if some were harder than others or (b) break something else while they were workin' on it! I just kept putting the job off but i already had the plugs and wires, then a mechanic i knew and trusted from where i used to live in So Cal moved to the same town i live in, and he needed snow tires.....and i just happened to have some that would fit his truck and i wasn't using them.........SO that's what it cost me to have him change my plugs and wires!
 
changing plugs

I read all the posts, and pulled the intercoolers tubes,power steering, coil pack,alternator, air tube and a/c compresser.............still hard to do.................FAST FREDDIE hardeuni:mad: :mad: :mad:
 
Plugs

I did mine last week in about 2 hours. If you remove the windshield washer tank the drivers side is a piece of cake. For the passenger side, I removed the intake tube and was able to get to the front two. A little tight, but I had to go underneath to get the back one on the passenger side. Good Luck.


Joe
 
well that definitly helps for the drivers side, but i dunno if i really want to go at it again, conidering the the passenger side is impossible with all thos a/c hoses and its more cramped under the passenger side than the drivers side, and i had enough trouble trying to fit my hands in there.
 
No joke...

Hey guys, no joke that these things are hard to change plugs and wires in...but you really don't have to remove the I.C tubes, or anything really out of the ordinary. I just did my plug/wire change last week. The pass. side was done from the top, just removed the air intake tube and used a universal joint on the ratched end. The drivers side, well that was another story...had to go from under the car, for all 3 of them. Took me a total of 3 hours for all six (and that time is with distractions...phone calls etc.). It's a bit of a pain, but very easily done. Just have patience...and some band aids.

Rino
 
RECOMEDATION: find a seven year old that has really small hands. thats what i did and it only took me an hour and a half. i cant see what your problem is. sorry, i dont meen to be rude, but it was a peice of cake. especially the drivers side. that only took like 15 min, after i got everything un hooked, that is. the pass side consisted of getting the front one from up top (with the seven year old) and then crawled underneath to get to the other two. (again with some help from the youngen). good luck.

--joel--
 
Apreciate how easy this is to do now, cause if you ever get headers then it gets hard. And the 7yr old idea is great, if your 7 yr old can already change plugs thats awesome:D
 
You know, for the amount this needs to be done (as you should be using double plat plugs).......

I changed all 6 plugs and wires in 50 minutes. I had the motor torn down to do the water pump at the time.

If you remove

DRIVERS SIDE
Upper and lower intercooler pipes and inetercooler.
Remove all three belts (these are easy)
PASS SIDE
Coolant overflow bottle, air intake hose and airbox lid.
Remove the bolts that holkd the pass side jackshaft bracket to the cylinder head, unplug the DIS and get the whole thing out of there! This isn't hard to do!
Now the only trick is limited room for a socket and ratchet. As you back the pass side plugs out, the ratchet head bottoms against the inner fender... make sure you use a plug socket withe hex head as mentioned.
If you remove some stuff, which is not difficullt, but only takes time, changing plugs is not difficult at all.
 
sucks doesn't it

Point here is this,
you gotta take crap off and ya gotta have the right tools in these days of Detroit shoe horn engineering $@#* you cannot just shade tree change your plugs anymore..Ya can't use a matchbook to gap yer plugs either :D ya gotta spend some big bucks on a mechanic....a good one...or buy a few gaskets cause yer gonna have to yank some stuff off and gettem outta yer way. and by the way if you haven't done this a few times I highly recommend using all Motorcraft parts...these platinum plugs are ok but with the wires if you dont know what your doing you can easily bend a plug clamp and your SC will accellerate like $#!* it will miss like....well...someone pulled a plug wire off:eek: especially when ya punch it. Motorcraft wires have very hard clamps and are much more forgiving when yanked and pulled on ;) ........good luck!!
Rick in FL:cool:
 
I agree with buying Motorcraft stuff. It seems to work the best. Although I'm running Autolite 8.5mm Pro-fit wires. They fit perfect on my S/C and run well. The same kit I bought for my 3.0L Ranger was a different story. Some of the wire lengths were slightly different, and the angle caps that go on the plugs were a different angle. All in all, not bad though. They fit well and work well, just slightly different than the stockers. The S/C kit though is a perfect fit. The Autolite PP's work nice and have a nickel plated finish for anti-corrosion. This still didn't stop me from using anti-seize on the threads and di-electric compound on the connections. Don't ask me about the 3.0L head gasket in the bottom of the garbage can in my garage. Let's just say it was a longer than average tune up...
 
umm

I just changed them everytime I did a head gasket.


Then when things were normal I took off the ac compressor 4 bolts, and the ic tubes. Made it very very easy. All and I had the assortment of extentions and swivels.
 
well if i take off the intercooler tubes, how hard is it to get them back on, just bolt em back on or do I have to use the gasket/sealant?
 
To remove the inner cooler pipes is pretty easy, but there are some tricks.

Upper: Remove the 13mm nuts on the upper pipe to intercooler. I think its a 7mm socket that fits over the studs and they back right out. This gives you room to slide the pipe up and out of the way but your not done yet... Use a spanner wrench and undo the great big nut at the S/C. A hammer and chisel will do as well, but it will mark it up. If you don't want to go that route, then undo the 4 S/C top bolts and take the top off that says 3.8 on it. There is a 15mm nut on the side facing the battery, near the bottom. This is close to the washer fluid bottle and the power distribution box. Once the nut is off, remove the stud with a 7mm socket. The upper should lift right off.

Lower: Undo the 13 mm nuts at the bottom of the intercoller and the collar shoudl slide back enough to clear the studs. Undo the nuts at the intake plenum and this collar should slide back as well. Now, near the botttom, by the power steering pump is a triangle shaped braket. There are a couple of different ways to take this off. I think there is another 15mm nut and 7mm stud on the side as well, it's a bit tougher to get at compared to the top one, but it's not too bad. The lower will lift and twist out, it takes some finesse, but no gator wresting should be involed.

Don't be suprised if you see oil in the intake tract, this is normal for these cars. Your history of how clean you keep the oil will be shown in the intercooler. If it is black and sooty, it hasn't been kept clean enough. If it is silver and clean, thats a very good sign. My XR-7 is spotless and it has 280,000km. I've always used Motorcraft 5W30 and FL 400S filters. My parts car is pretty grody and it only had 176,000km when it was retired.

Use a good silicone on all intercooler joints when assembling, such as Permatex Ultra Blue, Ultra Copper or Ultra Black. Locktite PST pipe sealant is recommended as well.

There is a guy on here selling a gasket set made from teflon that is inexpensive and re-useable....very cool.

If you don't seal the tubes properly, you car will run like crap and loose boost and tremendous amounts of power. Don't go crazy with the sealant either, use just enough to make a good seal, not a big mess.
 
Last edited:
Ok Ok the plugs are hard but not impossible, at least they are from the top, the key for me is under the car. Two jack stands under the front then lay on your back with the tranny in your lap, have a large light topside to shinne the lightingall is easy from down below. And you can toy around with lifting the engine up with the jack just a little to make more room. I dont ever have to take anything off the car to do a tune up, well exept the old plugs!
:cool:
 
I don't know why it is THAT hard for you guys, maybe the 94-95s are a little easier? I used a standard ratchet and 3in. ext. and spark plug socket, only had to remove the intake tube. It took me appx. 45 min., from the top, and I am 20 with little mechanical experience. I do have slender hands and good range of motion and feel.
 
talon I think you are correct. I did my 95's all from the top, didn't take that long either. I think my 89 was a lot harder. I think there is some more room on the drivers side. cause I changed all three plugs on that side from the top, but had to go underneath to get the last wire all the way on.
 
Back
Top