code 19-66 after magna II instal

Randy N Connie

Registered User
I installed a magna II, MP plenum,#42 injectors. The sc ran fine for about 50 miles
Then the check engine light cam on at a stop sign.The idle went down to about
600 rpm and the check engine light cam on.Drove the car on home ran just fine.
But when I slowed down to pull into the shop the check engine light came on again
with the rpm slowing to 550 to 600rpm.

Ran the codes,came up with a 19-66.

checked all the wires,cleaned the MAF ,THE CID has only 450 miles on it.

I still have the stock fuel pump,but I wouldnt think that would affect the idle.

The sensors all have less than 500 miles on them.cam sensor replaced three times,
dis replace two times.cps less than 700 miles.

checked all plug wires they are working.

The codes i got were with the KOEO.

Have not takin the fuel pressure.

engine is hard starting after about 7 mile drive.

Where can I buy a fuel pressure guage that will screw onto the shraider valve ,and leave it there
all the time.So I can read it all the time.When the hood is open.

Any one have any ideas what I should look for and do about these two codes.
 
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Fuel Pump...

You are on the right track if you are taking fuel press.

You installed 42# inj's...Stock 110lph fuel pump aint' gona cut it Randy...Get you a 255lph clear them codes and forget about it...

I dunno if fuel press. can cause those codes though....But you gotta get a bigger pump regardless...


Brad
 
I have the larger pump. I just have not installed it yet.

I am getting ready to work on stiffening the chassis with
front and rear shock tower braces, and sub-frame connectors
weld on,with a bolt on cross member.

I had planed to remove fuel tank and install the pump then.I have
a 190 pump.

I try to do one mod at a time,so I don't end up compounding my problems.

I suppose I should just go on with my mods,with the chassis stiffining,k-member,
and fiber glass parts.AND just chalk it up that these sc dont run but about 300
miles at a time then it another $1000.00 buck to get it to run another 300 miles.

It just dosen't seen right to be replacing sensor for the 3nd or 4th time.
I only get to drive this car about 2 days,then its broke down for the next
2 months.

Every time I have done a mod,its time for a new round of sensors.

:mad: :mad:
 
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Sensors...

I doubt that the sensors are the real issue Randy...The car will throw bogus codes at ya and have you running in circles if ya let it...I keppt getting TPS codes when my Crank sensor was flakin' out on me...And it finally gave me the right code after it took a
$h!T and would not start, and gave me the upshift light...

So I would not be too concerned with the codes, although your fuel pressue on the other hand...

Brad
 
MPII Upgrade

I don't think your Fuel Pump is the problem. I did the full MPII upgrade including MP Intake and 85mm throttle body and left the stock fuel pump on for a year. The car ran lean but didn't effect idle.
I have to presume that when you did your 42# injectors that you also matched a MAF with the correct sampling tube for the 42's. If you didn't you'll have idling problems.

The idle problem I got after the MPII install was in park the car idle would fluctuate up and down. Once in Drive the car would idle low & sometimes stall. I had to up the idle screw on the 85mm TB just to get it to keep running, but this was really hard on the brakes.
I took the MPII intake plenum off and found that the Liquid Gasket I used between the SC and the plenum had been sucked into the SC and this was my problem. I bought some Fel Pro gasket paper and traced the plenum opening and cut out a gasket. I also used the liquid gasket on both sides of the gasket and re-installed. The problem was fixed and the car idle is like stock now. I know most guys don't bother with gasket paper, but for $7 bucks and about a half hours labor you can't go wrong!
 
Randy....

I have installed my 255lph pump already and dont have any of the MP stuff installed + stock injectors.

If you have the stock ORIGINAL pump, not only will it not be capable of dealing with the 42s demands, but it may be weak.

I had a brand new fuel filter, but original pump on mine and when the 255 was put in the idle actually increased a bit i had noticed.

Response time was improved and WOT off the line power improved with no other changes. My old pump may have been old and tired because the computer would regulate the pressure drop so i dont think this translates into increased pressure or anything like that, but it's power on tap.

I had intentionally had the 255 installed with the stock engine/injectors because I wanted to see if it would improve on some things that just looked to me like there was too much air and not enough fuel to meet the demand.

Driving 2 SCs non stop for over 180,000 miles combined since 1995, the difference was subtle, but noticable.

The pump is your achilles heel and I was warned not to do the engine (MP upgrades) before the pump.

Rich Thompson has nice deals on WalBro 255lph and 255lph forced induction (or something) pumps. (Holley's manufacturer).

I wish you well and have been watching what you are doing very closely considering that is what I intend to initally do to (torture) this POS reman'd engine....

Have fun and let us know how it all goes!!!
 
Well I changed the sample tube in the 76mm C&L MAF to match the injectors.

I am pulling 20+ pounds of vacum.

The car run perfect,but at idle,it will idle up & down ,from 650 down to 500.
but it doen't die.After warm up I half to crank the motor about 10 to 15 seconds
to get it started.

When I installed the MPII & MP plenum i let it set over night before starting.
So the copper sealer would set up.Because I have notice that the sealer I had
been using would get sucked into the intercooler ,from the IC tube.If I started
the car to soon.
 
Gaskets...

You may want to get TBird88's teflon gaskets...They are perfect for making sure you dont have a vac leak. You have 20in plus vac, so thats ruled out anyway, but it's a thought..

The lope is very familiar to me and happened on two occasions. Recently I believe my lope was due to a dirty IAC that although I sprayed the **** out of, I bet it just needs to go. When I adjusted the screw for the IAC, the minilope was gone. I assume you replaced your IAC with the 85mm, but does it have enough room to breathe? Is it open enough? If you have never touched it, see if a small turn will stable the idle...Otherwise Dr. Fred has an IAC tuning method somewhere on TBSCEC I think...

Did you make sure the TPS is proper voltage? (I doubt that is it, but it doesnt hurt to be correct)

The C&L is tricking the EEC, but on the second occasion with a massive lope (watching the A/F meters bounce from rich to lean IN UNISON) , once the eec tuner was created, Dr. Fred programmed my weenie 73mm C&L to calibrate correctly with the 36lb injectors I had in there a long time ago..

If you dont have an eec tuner...get one, you will never regret that investment...it takes the guesswork out of some of the troubleshooting with mods because you now can control the #1 thing you fight with these engine mods....the damn computer...

Other than these areas, I am not really sure...Getting the EEC Tuner and bumping the idle to 650 in drive may be good. I did that on my 94 for the hell of it and get a better launch...

Just my 50 bucks of 2 cents...


BTW, if you can, pick up a Scantool with the ford kit (like $200) and monitor the DCL for the voltages on all the sensors in question. In addition to the eec tuner, the scantool was probably the coolest thing I bought for my cars.

- Mike

(Best of luck to ya!!!!)
 
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just as a side note, i drove my car for 5 months, blew a HG, had FORD fix it, and now its 5 months later.... and the whole time it idles from 500 to 700 rpm.
 
Mike Manzo,When I first started the sc up ,after getting the new parts on, it had a lope.
The lope was like I had added a cam.

I have a chip in it from APTEN,I had to take it to Brian the last time because I could not
find my problem then.Brian clean the IAC then.

I dont know what you mean by ,IAC has enough room to breathe?

I have not checked the voltage of the TPS.Don't have a voltage gauge.

Don't have a scantool.Wouldn't know how to use it anyway.

I have had the sc for two years now I think it has ran right about 5 days out of that time.
Well I am going to finish what I want to due with it.It looks like it will be a trailor queen.
Or I will give up and put a 514 for crate motor with carb.I know I could work on that.And
box up all the sensors and such.Send them to ford, and they can stick them were the sun don't shine.
 
Ran right...SC? Wow...you're a lucky one!!!

Ha,

I am not one of the bigger SC Gurus, but when I messed with the IAC screw, it cleaned up the idle, but my problem was probably from the fact that the IAC is original!

How I mean by "breathe" is to make sure that the IAC adjustment screw is open just enough to allow the car to breathe properly when the throttle plate is closed.

When I got my 85mm TB, the screw was all the way down. Granted this would kill the car (no air coming though the TB to the engine when throttle plate is closed), but maybe yours just needs to be up a tiny bit more.

The Scantool is simple and has a huge LCD display that asks you questions and displays the actual meaning of codes as well as the engine telemetry.

Even with the Stage 1 cam from CMRE, Fred was able to tune my 93 to a steady steady idle.

Are you talking about 550-650 in PARK or in gear? I never asked..

Try just turning that screw to the right (drivers side) of the Throttle body a little bit...see if you can make the lope go away there. Remember how much you turned it and if it does not help, then return it to the original position and troubleshoot somewhere else.

i dont think MagPowers turns the IAC adjustment screw when they are made, so I doubt it is correct.

Like I said, there is a how to do on TBSCEC on how to get the IAC calibrated as well as a non-voltmeter needed way to check the throttle stop screw and make sure the TPS is the right voltage.

Im only speaking from experience and i am not super technical, but messing with the above would either fix it or bring to light that the problem could be the MAF??

Try the IAC screw...it worked for me...
 
I ran my codes again, came up with 41,66,91. KOEO

41 ego sensor voltage always lean
66 MAF sensor or vane air flow(vaf) sensor-voltage signal too low.
91 ego sensor-signal voltage always indicate lean.
fuel pressure was 32.5 engine ideling.
with just key on fuel pressure was 37.5
did not test with vacum line off.

So I put a new 190 fuel pump on.
Went for a test drive ,check engin came on again.
Ran codes KOEO 11
Ran codes KOER,And got 42.92.
and it still idels bad in neutral,same as before,but run ok driving same as before.
42 ego sensor voltage signal always rich
92 right side ego sinsor signal voltage always indicates rich during engine run test.

At least I got it running rich,that seems better than lean.But it still is not ldeling right.

Its running rich now,but shouldnt my fuel pressure be set higher than 32.5.

my mods are.
MAF C&L 76MM
3in. cold air.
75mm BBK throttel body
MP blower intake plenum ported
MPII blower
3/4in raised top ported
top ic tube ends ported
stock IC ported ends
lower IC tube ends ported
manifold intake plenum ported
manifold intake port ported
lucus #42 injectors
ported stock headers
SCP exhaust with cats
Chip havet re burned since MPII install
fuel pressure gauge on schraider valve
190 fuel pump
cam sensor new,CPS new,O2s new,temp new
SCP aluminum UD pulleys
10% OD pulley on blower

I had planed to go to the WFC at St Louis this weekin but I dont know if I should drive it.
Could it be that sc just dont run perfect.Or am I just a nit picker,that likes perfection.

Well I hope I have it running good enough to take it to APTEN and get Brian to dyno it
and reburn my chip.
 
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One thing I found that could be over looked when installing the MPII.

The stock bolts that bolt the MP plenum to the back of the MPII blower
were to long.

I put copper sealer on the MP plenum and tightened it to the blower.
It looked tight, it felt tight,the sealer squeeze out.I inspected it before
install on motor.And found that the bolts were about 0.30 to long.

So if you buy a MPII & plenum.Check bolt length.

And i change to red loctite for sealer instead or the copper stuff.
 
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Oooh Oooh Oooh

How does it run

How does it run


I'm itchin' to do mine this weekend...My 80mm MAF is comin in and thats the final piece to the puzzle!!!

Is it like openin' a can o whoopass or what?

In regards to your finding of the bolts being too long, is this easily found by dry-mounting the plenum to the blower first?

In other words, how do I know if they are a smidge off?

Thanks again...

- Mike
 
Randy,

Your engine looks great...Are you dyno tuning with Brian tomorrow? There will probably be about six SCs there in the morning getting dyno tuned or reburned before WFC.

David
 
David N.

I drove the SC today it ran great.The idle was still a little off.I think every thing is ok, good
enough for Brian to start tuning.To get it set right for me.

I e-mailed bjherron@apten-us.com today to see if he had room to fit me in his schedule for a dyno tune.
He hasn't gottin back yet. So I was going to show up anyway (cross my fingers) and hope he has time
to dyno & reburn my chip.

I think this will cure my idle issue.
 
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I should have time tomorrow, but I can't guarentee it will be in the morning. I have about 8 people showing up there first thing, and they all want to be done quickly for the show. I'm going to do the best I can, but it make take some time.

Brian
 
Randy,

I asked Brian to do a little tweaking at the last minute too, and he said it would probably work out better on Friday afternoon instead of the morning. Like you I'll be there in the morning anyway, just in case someone doesn't show up.

See you there.

David
 
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